Over The Hills and Far Away.....
Well, I'm way overdue for a livejournal post. So what better time to post then to post a recap of my trip to Japan? This, like my Europe post, is something I want to do because I want to share with you (however many of you are reading this?) what I experienced over there. I don't know if any amount of livejournal posts is really going to do this trip justice, or even persuade you to log off of instant messenger and get you onto a plane as quickly as I would like it to, but still, I gotta try. Anyway, onto the trip....
My trip to Japan began on June 6th and lasted two weeks until June 19th. Although this wasn't a gross amount of time it was certainly more than enough for a first venture (I say first because, I assure you, I will go back) to keep me entertained and gain a respect for what Japanese culture has to offer. My flight left at 9am Monday morning and didn't land in Japan until 4pm on Tuesday (yes, you read right, that was the next day). It was a one-layover, fourteen-hour flight from O’Hare to Narita Airport. Post that it was a 90-minute bus ride from Narita to a hotel in the central part of Tokyo and a 30-minute on foot hike to the Guess T House, our first hostel.
My first impression of Tokyo wasn't quite what I expected. Honestly, the area our hostel was in was more comparable to Wrigleyville than what most of us picture when we think of the technological capital of the world. A variety of compact restaurants, fashion shops, massage parlors (no, not those kind), and various other stores you'd expect to find in any other city lined the narrow streets of our district, Azabu-juban. The high rises were a ways off and the majority of the buildings in our area capped off at about 5 or 6 stories. 'Course, there are those other areas of Tokyo that we've all seen and have imbedded in our brains thanks to the likes of such films as Black Rain, Rising Sun, Lost in Translation, and the infamous Godzilla flicks.
A note on the Japanese people.....
My God, I love the Japanese. The hospitality John and I were met with by the Europeans could not hold a candle to these people on their best day. When I found myself searching, to no avail, for the Guess T House I stepped into a small restaurant, optimistic that at least one of the employees spoke some English. Well that was my typical stupid optimism as I found only two waitresses running the joint who spoke no English at all. Nonetheless, when I showed them the address and told them the name of the hostel they were determined to assist me. After about ten minutes of realizing that they weren't going to be much use to me they asked a businessman who had just entered the restaurant if he could help me locate the hostel. Luckily, he spoke some English. Using the number of the hostel I had scribbled down in my sketchbook he called the hostel (from his own cell phone I might add), got the exact location of the hostel, then proceeded to get up and walk me two blocks to the hostel. what....the....hell....? Ya know if something like this had happened in Europe I'd be no less appreciative but I couldn't help but let the tourism stigma cloud my mind a bit. I mean what kind of financial motivation would they have out here in Japan for helping me like that? Probably none as Japan isn't one of these tourist countries in the Caribbean where they NEED tourist dollars. This was quite simply your typical display of Japanese hospitality. And it wasn't the last time that curiosity was extended to me or other members of the group.
TOKYO
So it's a terribly clichéd way of describing Japan but people have often remarked that it's the land of contrast; that couldn't be more true in Tokyo. Tokyo is an immense, always on the move metropolis of any and everything a city could possibly offer. From skyscrapers sporting the most modern architecture to ancient temples with chanting monks (and yes, I saw some of those) Tokyo sets a standard for the modern city. But turn a random corner and you'll find yourself face to face with the entrance to a beautifully landscaped garden. The gardens in Tokyo are nothing short of botanical aesthetic excellence and offer more than enough scenery to wipe your mind's eye clear of the neon lights and endless stream of advertisements sprawled over every inch of real estate throughout the city. I really wish I knew where to begin talking about my three-day excursion through Tokyo. The first day would probably be a good place to start. I was the first to check into the hostel and no one else arrived until the next night so I had a whole day to myself to really suck in some Japanese culture without any social distractions. I always start out strong and more enthusiastic than I can comprehend on these trips, and as such, logged about ten miles of exploring (on foot) as much of Tokyo as I could. Tokyo Tower, Tsukiji Fish Market, Hamarikyu Garden, and Electric City were all infamous Tokyo landmarks I managed to pack into the first day. I will say this as a side note though, having no one with me the first day, just basically wandering aimlessly around that city, was a very sobering experience. I had always thought of Tokyo like a London, very international, very mixed ethnicities in the crowds. Nope. Just Japanese-well, at least just Asian anyway. I say it was a sobering experience in the sense that I felt very alone-but in a good way. In Europe there were a fair number of people inclined to talk to you just because you were from the States. In Japan, everyone is about his or her day-to-day business and only on rare occasion did I get a curious glance from a passerby, which was usually a child who just looked, giggled, and toddled along.
I gotta do this plug before I forget. I must say every city in the world, particularly the US, could stand to learn a lesson from what I saw in this city. It is unbelievably organized and efficient. Minimal traffic (thanks to an incredibly intricate subway system), spotlessly clean, compact, and virtually no crime. Oh, and in the two weeks I spent there, between all three major cities I saw, I think I saw about 6 homeless people. Tops. Not bad, huh?
TOKYO TOWER
Tokyo Tower, being the closest of major attractions to our hostel and being easily enough to spot as it's the highest point in the city, was one of the first sites I hit that day. It basically just looks like a big red Eiffel Tower with the first 5 or 6 stories completely enclosed and showcasing a wax museum, an aquarium, a trick art gallery, a hologram gallery (don't worry, it's not as cool as it sounds), and a few other novelty galleries I can't quite recall at the moment. Probably because they didn't land too deep an impression my mind. The view however from the observatory, the highlight of the Tower, was well worth with the admission price. You can see the city from all directions and just absolutely marvel at how vast that city truly is-if you do find yourself in Tokyo someday, this is the one really touristy thing I would recommend hitting.
TSUKIJI FISH MARKET
The infamous Tsukiji Fish Market is located on the eastern part of Tokyo. It abounds in seafood markets (duh) and sushi bars. This was where I got my first real taste of Japanese food. For about 1000 Yen (that's about ten American dollars) I got a variety platter of sushi. Everything from...well, I really wasn't sure I was eating. I just knew it was various hunks of raw fish meat on cubes of rice. Honestly, it wasn't too bad, save for the octopus. I'm telling you right now, if you ever have the strange desires to eat raw octopus, don't. I assure you, it's a curiosity you won't want to satisfy. Post wandering Tsukiji a bit I backtracked to the Hamariyku Garden-one of Tokyo's major gardens.
HAMARIKYU GARDEN
There are dozens of parks like this in Tokyo, but Hama, being relatively close to the hostel and still looking rather respectable in size from what my map illustrated, was my choice for the day. A mere 300 yen got me through the front gates and I began to explore the various winding paths. It's clear the Japanese take real pride in their parks, everything about them is almost too perfect. From the pond in the center of the garden, the flowers, carefully trained trees, and man made paths, it's no wonder so many people trek to these gardens to escape the sights and sounds of the city. Now if you could only block out the skyscrapers looming on the horizon, this park would have been a real treat. But seriously, sarcasm aside, if you ever find yourself in Tokyo, be sure to hit at least a couple of these parks-they're completely worth it.
ELECTRIC CITY
Located way, WAY north of our hostel, Electric City stands up to its name and then some. Packed with dozens of shops selling any and everything electronic, Electric City serves as one of many shining examples how just how large a part technology plays in this city. Most notably are the sky-high (okay, not really but pretty damn high) arcades that boast everything from classic Street Fighter to Dance Dance Revolution'esque games with guitars and drums. Probably one of the coolest things I saw while in Electric City was this new (well new to me anyway) video game where the player sits at a console and using playing cards, maneuvers the cards across a tabletop to command his samurai armies on screen. I guess the cards and table have some kind of sensor in them. Either way, very cool game. And of course there were the obligatory carivnal'esque games like that drop claw game where no one can ever seems to win a prize. I was pretty damn close to that ninja rabbit though.....
SHINJUKU
Ah, now this is what I had been waiting for. Shinjuku is a district in the western part of Tokyo, which can only be described as complete and utter sensory overload. I've never been to New York City, I've never been to Las Vegas. I don't care. Now that I've been to this place, everything else will seem so very pathetic. About a week before I left for Japan I met another designer, Joey, while out in Wrigleyville one night with some friends. At some point in our conversing we got on the topic of traveling and how I was going to be going to Japan for a couple of weeks. Having been there before he had a few recommendations for me, Shinjuku being one of them. He described Tokyo like Times Square in New York, but like that on every block. He must have been remembering time spent in Shin when he made that analogy. Every inch of the buildings in Shin was covered in some kind of neon lights, illuminated billboard, or giant video screen. You literally couldn't get away from it. That, and middle aged men in business suits coming up to you and asking you if they could guide you into one of the nearby brothels for a sex massage (hey, it was there, whata ya want me to say?). The arcades were something really worth noting in this area too. Like Electric City, they're everywhere. Particularly pachinko. I have no idea what the attraction with this game is but it dominated the video game market out there. There were entire parlors-although often empty-dedicated to just that game. For those of you who don't know what Pachinko is it's basically a gambling game of sorts. You sit in front of a circular viewing window and watch silver balls fall behind the window and watch them clink and clack their way past an assortment of pegs placed throughout the circle. Points are accumulated based on where the balls land. That's about it. Again, not gettin' it.
ASAKUSA
Our excursion to the somber district of Asakusa, located in the northeastern part of Tokyo, was done really on a whim. We found ourselves wandering aimlessly around the subway system our last day in Tokyo and by chance were approached by another American from Massachusetts. His name escapes me. But I do recall telling him that we wanted to go to the Imperial Gardens as it's rather large color patch on our maps deemed it worthy of a visit. He advised otherwise and said Asakusa was a place worth taking a look at considering our time was becoming limited in Tokyo. Sure, why not? So off to Asakusa we went to wander down the marketplace, a temple and surrounding koi ponds, and conclude with some Japanese pizza in a small off-the-road restaurant. Of the aforementioned the market place was really the most noteworthy. It featured dozens of little bakeries and shops where you could purchase anything from samurai swords to crispy wafers to those little drums Mr. Miyagi had.
WORTH REMEMBERING
Okay, so this section probably isn't going to carry much weight with those of you who weren't on the trip but for those of you who were, well, reminiscence and enjoy :) No, seriously, there is a point to this section. It's to show all of you just how unpredictable these trips truly can be at times. Our original "plan" post Tokyo was to rent a car and head southwest for six hours to Kyoto. Awesome-a road trip in another country. What better way to see some of the countryside and less traveled spots in Japan. Minor problem. Not only did we have NO idea how to get there, no one had the foggiest idea, save maybe Ellis, how to read the maps. About two hours after departing from the rental car parking lot we found ourselves in absolute hysterics trying to comprehend how in the hell we got ourselves into this and where we were going sleep seeing as how we hadn't even found our way out of the city yet. So once we realized our efforts to drive to Kyoto were futile at best, we decided it best to find a nearby hotel, spoil ourselves for the night, and hit the bullet train tomorrow. Well, that's where part two of the story takes place. Not only we did we have a bit of difficulty finding a hotel, when we did , we knew we weren't going to be staying at that one. Ellis (or maybe it was Fernando?) couldn't have put it better: when you're walking into a hotel and even the front door lettering looks expensive, you know you're going to be looking for other accommodations very shortly. Regardless, our hosts at the front desk were nice enough to locate and book significantly more affordable accommodations just down the street. Now if what I'm about to tell you doesn't prove just how confusing the streets in Tokyo can truly be, nothing will. Our new home for the night was supposedly just down the street, couple of turns, and we're there-15 minute ride tops. Well after about 45 minutes of aimless cruising, trying to ask every pedestrian out at 2am where such and such a place was, and attempting to comprehend how some streets can intersect themselves, we called it quits for the night. With our car parked down an obscure street, we called it our home for the night, and concluded our stay in Tokyo.
KYOTO
It'll probably be a good year before I completely comprehend the time I spent in Kyoto. A couple of summers ago I took a trip out west through Yellowstone National Park and was, for lack of a better word, floored by the absolute beauty of this place. Kyoto could very well rival that. Granted Kyoto is not a national park but some of the imagery that's managed to ingrain itself into my memory is something that will remain there for a long time. The rice fields, mills, forest behind our hostel, and completely clichéd (although all too true) sense of serenity are things that still have me wondering....was I really there..?
The most notable bit about our trip to Kyoto was the ryokan we stayed at. Yes, for a mere 100 bucks a night (and worth every penny) you too can stay at a luxurious traditional Japanese inn complete with authentic Japanese food, sleeping accommodations, showers, hot tubs, and a conveniently situated mountain just behind the inn. And yes, it was THAT cool. After the hike past the rice fields we found our ryokan down a road by a scattered assortment of gift shops and other housing accommodations. We entered, exchanged our shoes for slippers, and began to explore. The inn was probably only a couple of stories high and didn't seem all that big from the exterior but the hallways seemed never ending as our host guided us toward our rooms. The rooms were simple. Simple as in nothing in them save for a sitting table in the center of the room (topped only by some complimentary green tea) and a couple of storage cabinets with our sleeping pads and sheets. After we got situated I headed down to the showers to investigate. Traditional Japanese showers are quite different from what we're all used to here; they're a far cry from tiles and metal spouts. You walk into a carpeted area with baskets for your belongings and a few sinks, turn the corner, and enter through a door into the showers. They really are quite unique as you have to sit to bathe (the spouts are only about 4 feet off the ground and can't be raised. You sit on a wooden stool and douse yourself with one of the buckets strewn around the room, wash up, and once you're done, head over to the hot bath where you can just soak and relax. What was really cool about this particular bath was that they had one hot tub in the shower stall, one hot tube outside adjacent to the showers, and another up a short flight of stone steps, completely engulfed by the greenery creeping down from the mountain's forest.
The other highlight worth noting from our stay in Kyoto was when Fernando and I decided to hike up the mountain behind our hostel. After ascending a path of stone steps up a few yards we came across a small burial ground (or shrine, not really sure what is was to be honest with you). It was comprised of about a dozen or so small markers and stone slabs situated around a couple of tree trunks. Fern suggested they may have some significance to the forest, or the fallen trees they surrounded. Either way, it was kind of creepy. At one point Fernando contemplated relieving himself on the markers, I advised otherwise. So we continued on up the mountain for probably a good mile or so until we reached a peak where we could no long ascend, well, safely anyway, took in the view, and snapped a few photos.
Back onto the train, out of Kyoto, onto Osaka.....
OSAKA
Of the three major cities that we visited Osaka was probably most like Chicago. A little less compact than Tokyo and an overall more casual feeling seemed to hang in the air. This was particularly evident in the way they dressed. The clone like imagery of black suits and ties seen all over Tokyo completely dissolved in Osaka-people wore, well, pretty much whatever they wanted. And as a small side note on clothing trends in Japan-as much as Japanese culture has influenced kids here in the States via video games and anime, we seem to have an equal effect on their youth. Kids abounded in clothes popular in the States and it seemed as if even wearing a t-shirt with some English on it granted the wearer some degree of popularity-regardless of whether or not it made any sense. Our stay in Osaka is worth noting for three reasons-first and foremost the Osaka Castle, the aquarium, and our nights spent in and around the Namco video arcade and theatre.
Our visit to Osaka Castle was one of those sites that REALLY makes you wish you had paid more attention in history class. A towering and massive, yet elegant, building of some 500 years old, it is surrounded by a moat, thick stone walls, a beautifully landscaped pond and garden, and offers an excellent look-out point from the observation deck of it's home city. The inside of the castle has been converted into a museum complete with a small collection of Samurai artifacts, battlefield mock-ups, and a model of what the castle and its grounds looked like back in its glory day.
The Osaka Aquarium. Okay, so I'll brag about our hometown by saying it ain't the Shedd but it was very impressive all the same. It's primary attraction was a massive tank in the center of the aquarium, at least a few stories high, and was entangled by a large spiral ramp that took the viewer down and around the entire circumference of the tank. The tank was filled with a variety of fish, most of which I can't name, but certainly unique enough to catch the eye and make you wonder where in the world they came from. Notably we were lucky enough to view a scuba diver submerged in the tank at lunch time; from his net pouch he scooped chunks of meat for a couple of stingrays that ate as if they hadn't been fed in years.
Last, but certainly not least, on our highlights of Osaka was meeting Vanessa. I was put in touch with Vanessa via my friend Paula back here in Chicago shortly before leaving for my trip. Although I keep forgetting how they know one another, Paula advised me to get in touch with her friend who had been living in Japan for the past four years or so teaching English. Vanessa's one of those people you meet in life that makes you realize just how boring your own life truly is-she's from Ireland, been living in and teaching in Japan for the past four years of her life, and was shortly on her way to Turkey. wtf? Yeah, okay, jealousy aside, it was very nice meeting you and hopefully we shall meet again someday in the UK. So thanks! :)
Post Osaka it was back onto the bullet train and north back to Tokyo....almost time for home....
DISNEY TOKYO
Yes, yes. As you've probably seen in the pics, we did in fact go to Tokyo Disney. Kinda cool actually considering my last time in Disney was when I was about 7 or 8. We hit Disney my second to last day in Japan and spent the better part of the day there-your typical Disney venture really: Space Mountain (stop laughing guys), Pirates of the Caribbean, that safari ride whose name I can't remember, an old school arcade, and Splash Mountain rounded out the day. I really wish I had something really unique to tell about the easternized version of Disney, but basically, it was what we got here.
PARK HYATT TOKYO
Okay, so this is really dorky, but hey, you're reading this, you know me. My last and final day in Tokyo Fernando and I hitched a ride back to Shinjuku. No, not for the sites and sounds we had indulged in before but for a visit the Park Hyatt Hotel, shooting location for an all time favorite movie of mine, "Lost in Translation". I've been a huge fan of that movie since I saw it back in 2004 and told myself I would have to visit that place provided the opportunity to travel to Japan ever arose. Well, it did, so I did. After about 30 minutes or so of riding on the tube and asking for a few directions, we finally arrived at the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Absolutely gorgeous. Hey, for 500 bucks a night, it had better be. Fernando and I wandered around the perimeter of the building a bit, finally found our way in through a side door into a cafeteria, up to a lobby, rode an elevator to the upper floors, and began to explore. We probably spent about hour or so just wandering into a few of the different restaurants up there and just trying to take in as much as we could. I will say, I really wish I had worn some nicer attire before entering that hotel-probably due to the hostesses I got an occasional curious glance from, ready to the prompt the question: "who are you here to see?" Apparently Led Zeppelin t-shirts, cargo shorts, and white sneakers don't scream 500 bucks a night. All the same, just being in that hotel and checking out a few of the restaurants and lounges in there were well worth the trip. That and coming back to the States, popping in Lost in Translation, and being able to see some of the exact same spots in the hotel we were in that Murray had been in. And incidentally, Penn was good, Murray would have given a better acceptance speech.
FINAL NOTES.......
EXPENSES
A few people, including a Japanese woman I had met in Europe, had warned me that Tokyo is very expensive. To be perfectly honest with you though, I really didn't think it was. At least no more than a night out in Chicago. The meals averaged about ten bucks each and our accommodations were about 25-30 a night, sometimes with a meal included. Now actually living there, that may have been a different story. Still, when you're traveling, you have to keep in mind that you're out there to enjoy yourself. That doesn't mean dropping 300 bucks a night in really fancy hotels, but still, you're not going to do yourself any favors by being ultra conservative on ventures like this.
FOOD
Yeah, like I said before about my excursion into the Tsukiji fish market-I had sushi. Some good, some not so good. I will say, as a side note, man do these people know to take care of themselves. Fast food restaurants weren't that common (except for the obligatory McDonald’s) and weren't heavily trafficked. We ate a lot of rice, fish, some beef (and I stress some as it is VERY expensive over there), vegetables, green tea, and some pretty good beer (the cheap stuff comes out of the vending machines, and the good stuff comes in really big bottles). Oh, and noodles bars, particularly ones you stand and eat at, abounded about all parts of Tokyo and Osaka, particularly for on-the-go commuters standing by for their next train.
LANGUAGE
I'm not going to dumb is down; language was a problem over there. Japan wasn't like Europe where they cater to the western lifestyle and pretty much everyone over there speaks some English, and a number of them are even fluent in it. Japan was a very different story, I think if it wasn't for Ellis we would have had one hell of a time getting around as well as we did. Even something like just navigating streets proved to be a bit difficult at times, don't forget, their written language is completely different, you can't read a symbol. So bit of advice for those of you who are thinking about going over there-I would strongly encourage you to learn as much Japanese as you can-trust me, you will save yourself a considerable headache later on.
PACK LITE
Yeah, I know, "well, I’ll bring this book with just in case I get bored" Leave it at home. You can buy something over there if you need it. A lot of people (myself included) seem to be over pack because they want to be prepared. "In case I'm captured by terrorists, I'll need my lock pick kit, compact shovel, and night vision goggles." WTF? You're going to another country, not some uncharted wilderness. Bring only what you need and what you know you won't be able to get over there.
MY TWO CENTS
I'll be perfectly blunt. I absolutely loved Japan but it isn't for everyone. Although I would have welcomed more time to explore the northern and southern regions of the country, two weeks was probably sufficient. Japan isn't like Europe where you know off hand there are a million things to keep you entertained for weeks or months of traveling. Japan is a bit more of an acquired taste and while I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from traveling anywhere, I think you really need to have an innate desire to see this country. I really don't know what it is but I've just always had a thing for that country, it's people, and it's culture...or maybe I just watched too much anime in high school.
I will say this though, on the note of traveling, as I've really seemed to have this traveling bug deeply implanted in my since Europe-you HAVE to travel. I don't care who you are or what you're doing. Do you honestly think it's going to get easier to travel once you're out on your own and have a full-time job? If you read the entry I did on Europe I'm sure I must sound like a broken record but I can't beat it into your head enough; traveling is in invaluable experience for what it does to you and your perspective on life. Going to another country isn't like going to Disney World (the one in Florida or Cal) or Vegas. Everyone goes to those places and when they come back they all have the same "we had a great time!" response. Which is great, they're supposed to be. But getting outside of the US, that's an entirely different story. And I'm sure you'll be bringing back a few more interesting things to talk about then how long you stood in line for an hour for The Haunted Mansion. And yeah, I know. You want to travel, but you have every excuse in the book NOT to do it. You don’t have the money, you have responsibilities at home, and your dog is dying. Blah blah blah...just go. Chances are most of you who are reading are STILL at home or in college. Now is a time as good as any to do it. Just trust me, you won't regret it.
SPECIAL THANKS
First and foremost to Darcy and Sarah. They were the last to see me off for this trip and my Europe trip and since I neglected to thank them in the Europe post I figured the least I could do was thank them first this time. So thanks guys! Oh, and thanks for kidnapping me the other week. It was slightly traumatic but entertaining all the same. Secondly to Fernando, Ellis, Marcus, Erik, Deon, and John. Guys, I had a great time, it was nice meeting you all, and I want to see all of your photos soon. The videos too for those of you that have them. Unless of course you were careless enough to accidentally delete them from your digital camera before you showed them to anyone or neglected to save them to your desktop. But c'mon, seriously, who the hell would be careless enough to do something like that? Psh. And once again to Vanessa for meeting with us and giving us a few pointers during our brief stay in Osaka. And last but not least to everyone who came out to Rock Bottom for the send off party-Sam (I want to hear all about Paris REAL soon), Paula (good luck in South Africa, be safe!), John (keep the lj's coming on your stay in that city near Beijing whose name I can't pronounce), and Fern (Australia?...soon???). Hopefully we will all be having another similar gathering very soon.......
My trip to Japan began on June 6th and lasted two weeks until June 19th. Although this wasn't a gross amount of time it was certainly more than enough for a first venture (I say first because, I assure you, I will go back) to keep me entertained and gain a respect for what Japanese culture has to offer. My flight left at 9am Monday morning and didn't land in Japan until 4pm on Tuesday (yes, you read right, that was the next day). It was a one-layover, fourteen-hour flight from O’Hare to Narita Airport. Post that it was a 90-minute bus ride from Narita to a hotel in the central part of Tokyo and a 30-minute on foot hike to the Guess T House, our first hostel.
My first impression of Tokyo wasn't quite what I expected. Honestly, the area our hostel was in was more comparable to Wrigleyville than what most of us picture when we think of the technological capital of the world. A variety of compact restaurants, fashion shops, massage parlors (no, not those kind), and various other stores you'd expect to find in any other city lined the narrow streets of our district, Azabu-juban. The high rises were a ways off and the majority of the buildings in our area capped off at about 5 or 6 stories. 'Course, there are those other areas of Tokyo that we've all seen and have imbedded in our brains thanks to the likes of such films as Black Rain, Rising Sun, Lost in Translation, and the infamous Godzilla flicks.
A note on the Japanese people.....
My God, I love the Japanese. The hospitality John and I were met with by the Europeans could not hold a candle to these people on their best day. When I found myself searching, to no avail, for the Guess T House I stepped into a small restaurant, optimistic that at least one of the employees spoke some English. Well that was my typical stupid optimism as I found only two waitresses running the joint who spoke no English at all. Nonetheless, when I showed them the address and told them the name of the hostel they were determined to assist me. After about ten minutes of realizing that they weren't going to be much use to me they asked a businessman who had just entered the restaurant if he could help me locate the hostel. Luckily, he spoke some English. Using the number of the hostel I had scribbled down in my sketchbook he called the hostel (from his own cell phone I might add), got the exact location of the hostel, then proceeded to get up and walk me two blocks to the hostel. what....the....hell....? Ya know if something like this had happened in Europe I'd be no less appreciative but I couldn't help but let the tourism stigma cloud my mind a bit. I mean what kind of financial motivation would they have out here in Japan for helping me like that? Probably none as Japan isn't one of these tourist countries in the Caribbean where they NEED tourist dollars. This was quite simply your typical display of Japanese hospitality. And it wasn't the last time that curiosity was extended to me or other members of the group.
TOKYO
So it's a terribly clichéd way of describing Japan but people have often remarked that it's the land of contrast; that couldn't be more true in Tokyo. Tokyo is an immense, always on the move metropolis of any and everything a city could possibly offer. From skyscrapers sporting the most modern architecture to ancient temples with chanting monks (and yes, I saw some of those) Tokyo sets a standard for the modern city. But turn a random corner and you'll find yourself face to face with the entrance to a beautifully landscaped garden. The gardens in Tokyo are nothing short of botanical aesthetic excellence and offer more than enough scenery to wipe your mind's eye clear of the neon lights and endless stream of advertisements sprawled over every inch of real estate throughout the city. I really wish I knew where to begin talking about my three-day excursion through Tokyo. The first day would probably be a good place to start. I was the first to check into the hostel and no one else arrived until the next night so I had a whole day to myself to really suck in some Japanese culture without any social distractions. I always start out strong and more enthusiastic than I can comprehend on these trips, and as such, logged about ten miles of exploring (on foot) as much of Tokyo as I could. Tokyo Tower, Tsukiji Fish Market, Hamarikyu Garden, and Electric City were all infamous Tokyo landmarks I managed to pack into the first day. I will say this as a side note though, having no one with me the first day, just basically wandering aimlessly around that city, was a very sobering experience. I had always thought of Tokyo like a London, very international, very mixed ethnicities in the crowds. Nope. Just Japanese-well, at least just Asian anyway. I say it was a sobering experience in the sense that I felt very alone-but in a good way. In Europe there were a fair number of people inclined to talk to you just because you were from the States. In Japan, everyone is about his or her day-to-day business and only on rare occasion did I get a curious glance from a passerby, which was usually a child who just looked, giggled, and toddled along.
I gotta do this plug before I forget. I must say every city in the world, particularly the US, could stand to learn a lesson from what I saw in this city. It is unbelievably organized and efficient. Minimal traffic (thanks to an incredibly intricate subway system), spotlessly clean, compact, and virtually no crime. Oh, and in the two weeks I spent there, between all three major cities I saw, I think I saw about 6 homeless people. Tops. Not bad, huh?
TOKYO TOWER
Tokyo Tower, being the closest of major attractions to our hostel and being easily enough to spot as it's the highest point in the city, was one of the first sites I hit that day. It basically just looks like a big red Eiffel Tower with the first 5 or 6 stories completely enclosed and showcasing a wax museum, an aquarium, a trick art gallery, a hologram gallery (don't worry, it's not as cool as it sounds), and a few other novelty galleries I can't quite recall at the moment. Probably because they didn't land too deep an impression my mind. The view however from the observatory, the highlight of the Tower, was well worth with the admission price. You can see the city from all directions and just absolutely marvel at how vast that city truly is-if you do find yourself in Tokyo someday, this is the one really touristy thing I would recommend hitting.
TSUKIJI FISH MARKET
The infamous Tsukiji Fish Market is located on the eastern part of Tokyo. It abounds in seafood markets (duh) and sushi bars. This was where I got my first real taste of Japanese food. For about 1000 Yen (that's about ten American dollars) I got a variety platter of sushi. Everything from...well, I really wasn't sure I was eating. I just knew it was various hunks of raw fish meat on cubes of rice. Honestly, it wasn't too bad, save for the octopus. I'm telling you right now, if you ever have the strange desires to eat raw octopus, don't. I assure you, it's a curiosity you won't want to satisfy. Post wandering Tsukiji a bit I backtracked to the Hamariyku Garden-one of Tokyo's major gardens.
HAMARIKYU GARDEN
There are dozens of parks like this in Tokyo, but Hama, being relatively close to the hostel and still looking rather respectable in size from what my map illustrated, was my choice for the day. A mere 300 yen got me through the front gates and I began to explore the various winding paths. It's clear the Japanese take real pride in their parks, everything about them is almost too perfect. From the pond in the center of the garden, the flowers, carefully trained trees, and man made paths, it's no wonder so many people trek to these gardens to escape the sights and sounds of the city. Now if you could only block out the skyscrapers looming on the horizon, this park would have been a real treat. But seriously, sarcasm aside, if you ever find yourself in Tokyo, be sure to hit at least a couple of these parks-they're completely worth it.
ELECTRIC CITY
Located way, WAY north of our hostel, Electric City stands up to its name and then some. Packed with dozens of shops selling any and everything electronic, Electric City serves as one of many shining examples how just how large a part technology plays in this city. Most notably are the sky-high (okay, not really but pretty damn high) arcades that boast everything from classic Street Fighter to Dance Dance Revolution'esque games with guitars and drums. Probably one of the coolest things I saw while in Electric City was this new (well new to me anyway) video game where the player sits at a console and using playing cards, maneuvers the cards across a tabletop to command his samurai armies on screen. I guess the cards and table have some kind of sensor in them. Either way, very cool game. And of course there were the obligatory carivnal'esque games like that drop claw game where no one can ever seems to win a prize. I was pretty damn close to that ninja rabbit though.....
SHINJUKU
Ah, now this is what I had been waiting for. Shinjuku is a district in the western part of Tokyo, which can only be described as complete and utter sensory overload. I've never been to New York City, I've never been to Las Vegas. I don't care. Now that I've been to this place, everything else will seem so very pathetic. About a week before I left for Japan I met another designer, Joey, while out in Wrigleyville one night with some friends. At some point in our conversing we got on the topic of traveling and how I was going to be going to Japan for a couple of weeks. Having been there before he had a few recommendations for me, Shinjuku being one of them. He described Tokyo like Times Square in New York, but like that on every block. He must have been remembering time spent in Shin when he made that analogy. Every inch of the buildings in Shin was covered in some kind of neon lights, illuminated billboard, or giant video screen. You literally couldn't get away from it. That, and middle aged men in business suits coming up to you and asking you if they could guide you into one of the nearby brothels for a sex massage (hey, it was there, whata ya want me to say?). The arcades were something really worth noting in this area too. Like Electric City, they're everywhere. Particularly pachinko. I have no idea what the attraction with this game is but it dominated the video game market out there. There were entire parlors-although often empty-dedicated to just that game. For those of you who don't know what Pachinko is it's basically a gambling game of sorts. You sit in front of a circular viewing window and watch silver balls fall behind the window and watch them clink and clack their way past an assortment of pegs placed throughout the circle. Points are accumulated based on where the balls land. That's about it. Again, not gettin' it.
ASAKUSA
Our excursion to the somber district of Asakusa, located in the northeastern part of Tokyo, was done really on a whim. We found ourselves wandering aimlessly around the subway system our last day in Tokyo and by chance were approached by another American from Massachusetts. His name escapes me. But I do recall telling him that we wanted to go to the Imperial Gardens as it's rather large color patch on our maps deemed it worthy of a visit. He advised otherwise and said Asakusa was a place worth taking a look at considering our time was becoming limited in Tokyo. Sure, why not? So off to Asakusa we went to wander down the marketplace, a temple and surrounding koi ponds, and conclude with some Japanese pizza in a small off-the-road restaurant. Of the aforementioned the market place was really the most noteworthy. It featured dozens of little bakeries and shops where you could purchase anything from samurai swords to crispy wafers to those little drums Mr. Miyagi had.
WORTH REMEMBERING
Okay, so this section probably isn't going to carry much weight with those of you who weren't on the trip but for those of you who were, well, reminiscence and enjoy :) No, seriously, there is a point to this section. It's to show all of you just how unpredictable these trips truly can be at times. Our original "plan" post Tokyo was to rent a car and head southwest for six hours to Kyoto. Awesome-a road trip in another country. What better way to see some of the countryside and less traveled spots in Japan. Minor problem. Not only did we have NO idea how to get there, no one had the foggiest idea, save maybe Ellis, how to read the maps. About two hours after departing from the rental car parking lot we found ourselves in absolute hysterics trying to comprehend how in the hell we got ourselves into this and where we were going sleep seeing as how we hadn't even found our way out of the city yet. So once we realized our efforts to drive to Kyoto were futile at best, we decided it best to find a nearby hotel, spoil ourselves for the night, and hit the bullet train tomorrow. Well, that's where part two of the story takes place. Not only we did we have a bit of difficulty finding a hotel, when we did , we knew we weren't going to be staying at that one. Ellis (or maybe it was Fernando?) couldn't have put it better: when you're walking into a hotel and even the front door lettering looks expensive, you know you're going to be looking for other accommodations very shortly. Regardless, our hosts at the front desk were nice enough to locate and book significantly more affordable accommodations just down the street. Now if what I'm about to tell you doesn't prove just how confusing the streets in Tokyo can truly be, nothing will. Our new home for the night was supposedly just down the street, couple of turns, and we're there-15 minute ride tops. Well after about 45 minutes of aimless cruising, trying to ask every pedestrian out at 2am where such and such a place was, and attempting to comprehend how some streets can intersect themselves, we called it quits for the night. With our car parked down an obscure street, we called it our home for the night, and concluded our stay in Tokyo.
KYOTO
It'll probably be a good year before I completely comprehend the time I spent in Kyoto. A couple of summers ago I took a trip out west through Yellowstone National Park and was, for lack of a better word, floored by the absolute beauty of this place. Kyoto could very well rival that. Granted Kyoto is not a national park but some of the imagery that's managed to ingrain itself into my memory is something that will remain there for a long time. The rice fields, mills, forest behind our hostel, and completely clichéd (although all too true) sense of serenity are things that still have me wondering....was I really there..?
The most notable bit about our trip to Kyoto was the ryokan we stayed at. Yes, for a mere 100 bucks a night (and worth every penny) you too can stay at a luxurious traditional Japanese inn complete with authentic Japanese food, sleeping accommodations, showers, hot tubs, and a conveniently situated mountain just behind the inn. And yes, it was THAT cool. After the hike past the rice fields we found our ryokan down a road by a scattered assortment of gift shops and other housing accommodations. We entered, exchanged our shoes for slippers, and began to explore. The inn was probably only a couple of stories high and didn't seem all that big from the exterior but the hallways seemed never ending as our host guided us toward our rooms. The rooms were simple. Simple as in nothing in them save for a sitting table in the center of the room (topped only by some complimentary green tea) and a couple of storage cabinets with our sleeping pads and sheets. After we got situated I headed down to the showers to investigate. Traditional Japanese showers are quite different from what we're all used to here; they're a far cry from tiles and metal spouts. You walk into a carpeted area with baskets for your belongings and a few sinks, turn the corner, and enter through a door into the showers. They really are quite unique as you have to sit to bathe (the spouts are only about 4 feet off the ground and can't be raised. You sit on a wooden stool and douse yourself with one of the buckets strewn around the room, wash up, and once you're done, head over to the hot bath where you can just soak and relax. What was really cool about this particular bath was that they had one hot tub in the shower stall, one hot tube outside adjacent to the showers, and another up a short flight of stone steps, completely engulfed by the greenery creeping down from the mountain's forest.
The other highlight worth noting from our stay in Kyoto was when Fernando and I decided to hike up the mountain behind our hostel. After ascending a path of stone steps up a few yards we came across a small burial ground (or shrine, not really sure what is was to be honest with you). It was comprised of about a dozen or so small markers and stone slabs situated around a couple of tree trunks. Fern suggested they may have some significance to the forest, or the fallen trees they surrounded. Either way, it was kind of creepy. At one point Fernando contemplated relieving himself on the markers, I advised otherwise. So we continued on up the mountain for probably a good mile or so until we reached a peak where we could no long ascend, well, safely anyway, took in the view, and snapped a few photos.
Back onto the train, out of Kyoto, onto Osaka.....
OSAKA
Of the three major cities that we visited Osaka was probably most like Chicago. A little less compact than Tokyo and an overall more casual feeling seemed to hang in the air. This was particularly evident in the way they dressed. The clone like imagery of black suits and ties seen all over Tokyo completely dissolved in Osaka-people wore, well, pretty much whatever they wanted. And as a small side note on clothing trends in Japan-as much as Japanese culture has influenced kids here in the States via video games and anime, we seem to have an equal effect on their youth. Kids abounded in clothes popular in the States and it seemed as if even wearing a t-shirt with some English on it granted the wearer some degree of popularity-regardless of whether or not it made any sense. Our stay in Osaka is worth noting for three reasons-first and foremost the Osaka Castle, the aquarium, and our nights spent in and around the Namco video arcade and theatre.
Our visit to Osaka Castle was one of those sites that REALLY makes you wish you had paid more attention in history class. A towering and massive, yet elegant, building of some 500 years old, it is surrounded by a moat, thick stone walls, a beautifully landscaped pond and garden, and offers an excellent look-out point from the observation deck of it's home city. The inside of the castle has been converted into a museum complete with a small collection of Samurai artifacts, battlefield mock-ups, and a model of what the castle and its grounds looked like back in its glory day.
The Osaka Aquarium. Okay, so I'll brag about our hometown by saying it ain't the Shedd but it was very impressive all the same. It's primary attraction was a massive tank in the center of the aquarium, at least a few stories high, and was entangled by a large spiral ramp that took the viewer down and around the entire circumference of the tank. The tank was filled with a variety of fish, most of which I can't name, but certainly unique enough to catch the eye and make you wonder where in the world they came from. Notably we were lucky enough to view a scuba diver submerged in the tank at lunch time; from his net pouch he scooped chunks of meat for a couple of stingrays that ate as if they hadn't been fed in years.
Last, but certainly not least, on our highlights of Osaka was meeting Vanessa. I was put in touch with Vanessa via my friend Paula back here in Chicago shortly before leaving for my trip. Although I keep forgetting how they know one another, Paula advised me to get in touch with her friend who had been living in Japan for the past four years or so teaching English. Vanessa's one of those people you meet in life that makes you realize just how boring your own life truly is-she's from Ireland, been living in and teaching in Japan for the past four years of her life, and was shortly on her way to Turkey. wtf? Yeah, okay, jealousy aside, it was very nice meeting you and hopefully we shall meet again someday in the UK. So thanks! :)
Post Osaka it was back onto the bullet train and north back to Tokyo....almost time for home....
DISNEY TOKYO
Yes, yes. As you've probably seen in the pics, we did in fact go to Tokyo Disney. Kinda cool actually considering my last time in Disney was when I was about 7 or 8. We hit Disney my second to last day in Japan and spent the better part of the day there-your typical Disney venture really: Space Mountain (stop laughing guys), Pirates of the Caribbean, that safari ride whose name I can't remember, an old school arcade, and Splash Mountain rounded out the day. I really wish I had something really unique to tell about the easternized version of Disney, but basically, it was what we got here.
PARK HYATT TOKYO
Okay, so this is really dorky, but hey, you're reading this, you know me. My last and final day in Tokyo Fernando and I hitched a ride back to Shinjuku. No, not for the sites and sounds we had indulged in before but for a visit the Park Hyatt Hotel, shooting location for an all time favorite movie of mine, "Lost in Translation". I've been a huge fan of that movie since I saw it back in 2004 and told myself I would have to visit that place provided the opportunity to travel to Japan ever arose. Well, it did, so I did. After about 30 minutes or so of riding on the tube and asking for a few directions, we finally arrived at the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Absolutely gorgeous. Hey, for 500 bucks a night, it had better be. Fernando and I wandered around the perimeter of the building a bit, finally found our way in through a side door into a cafeteria, up to a lobby, rode an elevator to the upper floors, and began to explore. We probably spent about hour or so just wandering into a few of the different restaurants up there and just trying to take in as much as we could. I will say, I really wish I had worn some nicer attire before entering that hotel-probably due to the hostesses I got an occasional curious glance from, ready to the prompt the question: "who are you here to see?" Apparently Led Zeppelin t-shirts, cargo shorts, and white sneakers don't scream 500 bucks a night. All the same, just being in that hotel and checking out a few of the restaurants and lounges in there were well worth the trip. That and coming back to the States, popping in Lost in Translation, and being able to see some of the exact same spots in the hotel we were in that Murray had been in. And incidentally, Penn was good, Murray would have given a better acceptance speech.
FINAL NOTES.......
EXPENSES
A few people, including a Japanese woman I had met in Europe, had warned me that Tokyo is very expensive. To be perfectly honest with you though, I really didn't think it was. At least no more than a night out in Chicago. The meals averaged about ten bucks each and our accommodations were about 25-30 a night, sometimes with a meal included. Now actually living there, that may have been a different story. Still, when you're traveling, you have to keep in mind that you're out there to enjoy yourself. That doesn't mean dropping 300 bucks a night in really fancy hotels, but still, you're not going to do yourself any favors by being ultra conservative on ventures like this.
FOOD
Yeah, like I said before about my excursion into the Tsukiji fish market-I had sushi. Some good, some not so good. I will say, as a side note, man do these people know to take care of themselves. Fast food restaurants weren't that common (except for the obligatory McDonald’s) and weren't heavily trafficked. We ate a lot of rice, fish, some beef (and I stress some as it is VERY expensive over there), vegetables, green tea, and some pretty good beer (the cheap stuff comes out of the vending machines, and the good stuff comes in really big bottles). Oh, and noodles bars, particularly ones you stand and eat at, abounded about all parts of Tokyo and Osaka, particularly for on-the-go commuters standing by for their next train.
LANGUAGE
I'm not going to dumb is down; language was a problem over there. Japan wasn't like Europe where they cater to the western lifestyle and pretty much everyone over there speaks some English, and a number of them are even fluent in it. Japan was a very different story, I think if it wasn't for Ellis we would have had one hell of a time getting around as well as we did. Even something like just navigating streets proved to be a bit difficult at times, don't forget, their written language is completely different, you can't read a symbol. So bit of advice for those of you who are thinking about going over there-I would strongly encourage you to learn as much Japanese as you can-trust me, you will save yourself a considerable headache later on.
PACK LITE
Yeah, I know, "well, I’ll bring this book with just in case I get bored" Leave it at home. You can buy something over there if you need it. A lot of people (myself included) seem to be over pack because they want to be prepared. "In case I'm captured by terrorists, I'll need my lock pick kit, compact shovel, and night vision goggles." WTF? You're going to another country, not some uncharted wilderness. Bring only what you need and what you know you won't be able to get over there.
MY TWO CENTS
I'll be perfectly blunt. I absolutely loved Japan but it isn't for everyone. Although I would have welcomed more time to explore the northern and southern regions of the country, two weeks was probably sufficient. Japan isn't like Europe where you know off hand there are a million things to keep you entertained for weeks or months of traveling. Japan is a bit more of an acquired taste and while I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from traveling anywhere, I think you really need to have an innate desire to see this country. I really don't know what it is but I've just always had a thing for that country, it's people, and it's culture...or maybe I just watched too much anime in high school.
I will say this though, on the note of traveling, as I've really seemed to have this traveling bug deeply implanted in my since Europe-you HAVE to travel. I don't care who you are or what you're doing. Do you honestly think it's going to get easier to travel once you're out on your own and have a full-time job? If you read the entry I did on Europe I'm sure I must sound like a broken record but I can't beat it into your head enough; traveling is in invaluable experience for what it does to you and your perspective on life. Going to another country isn't like going to Disney World (the one in Florida or Cal) or Vegas. Everyone goes to those places and when they come back they all have the same "we had a great time!" response. Which is great, they're supposed to be. But getting outside of the US, that's an entirely different story. And I'm sure you'll be bringing back a few more interesting things to talk about then how long you stood in line for an hour for The Haunted Mansion. And yeah, I know. You want to travel, but you have every excuse in the book NOT to do it. You don’t have the money, you have responsibilities at home, and your dog is dying. Blah blah blah...just go. Chances are most of you who are reading are STILL at home or in college. Now is a time as good as any to do it. Just trust me, you won't regret it.
SPECIAL THANKS
First and foremost to Darcy and Sarah. They were the last to see me off for this trip and my Europe trip and since I neglected to thank them in the Europe post I figured the least I could do was thank them first this time. So thanks guys! Oh, and thanks for kidnapping me the other week. It was slightly traumatic but entertaining all the same. Secondly to Fernando, Ellis, Marcus, Erik, Deon, and John. Guys, I had a great time, it was nice meeting you all, and I want to see all of your photos soon. The videos too for those of you that have them. Unless of course you were careless enough to accidentally delete them from your digital camera before you showed them to anyone or neglected to save them to your desktop. But c'mon, seriously, who the hell would be careless enough to do something like that? Psh. And once again to Vanessa for meeting with us and giving us a few pointers during our brief stay in Osaka. And last but not least to everyone who came out to Rock Bottom for the send off party-Sam (I want to hear all about Paris REAL soon), Paula (good luck in South Africa, be safe!), John (keep the lj's coming on your stay in that city near Beijing whose name I can't pronounce), and Fern (Australia?...soon???). Hopefully we will all be having another similar gathering very soon.......