Return to the Rim
Kind of last minute we decided to head out to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. No campsite reservations. No real plan... just go. That's right, folks, I actually went on a journey without much of a plan! How unlike me!
We started late, per the norm (it's like we cannot get out of the house before noon) and made a bee-line to Kanab, were we stopped for lunch at this cute-as-a-button diner, Rewind Cafe, were I fell in love with their eight-bean soup; it was stupendous!
Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim
Map of Grand Canyon National Park
Deciding on the path least traveled, we took Forest Service Rd22 the "back" way into GCNP. It wasn't any faster than the main road, but it was significantly prettier and much less traffic! We made good time, even with the dappling of the trees hiding all the potholes. One of the most spectacular things about the drive from Utah to the North Rim is the amazing shift in environments. From high desert, to desert, to small pine covered mountains and then way, way, waaaay up into alpine-like forests filled with aspen and fur trees; just stunning!
As Fortuna would have it, we scored a campsite right off the bat with no hassles. We swung by our site quickly, before heading out to Cape Royal, for sunset and star watching. On the way out, we were discussing some of the unique characteristics of the wildlife at the rim, when surprise, surprise I saw my very first Kaibab Squirrel... which we promptly almost ran over as the dumb-shit flung itself, kamikaze style, right in front of Argo's tires! Luckily enough, J's ninja reflexes saved the foolish creature, and we continued on our way.
Kanarra Creek Lower Falls
Kanarra Creek Small Falls
After the hike into Kanarra Creek, I was so sure that the hike from the parking lot to Cape Royal was gonna be a royal pain in the you-know-what... but it wasn't! It was a nice, quick jaunt. No huffing and puffing at 8000+ feet due to large elevation change. No slogging through chilly waters. Just a quick trek, and within minutes we came to the edge of the canyon... to a straight... drop... DOWN! We climbed over the railing and headed out closer to the ledge, and that's were we pretty much spent the next 4 hours or so. In fact, I had a little lizard buddy, whom I named (quite appropriately and without surprise), "George." He was the friendliest and bravest lil lizard guy I'd ever met!
While waiting for the sun to set, we watched the changing landscape across on the South Rim side; massive thunderstorms right over the San Francisco Peaks. It was like the mountains held onto the storm system, refusing to allow it to abate overhead, but just as it blew off to the south, it would dissipate into nothingness. And, as the sun set, it turned the cranky-grey clouds beautiful shades of peach and pink, even coloring the rain as it fell upon the peaks. Once the sunset, thought, we could distinctly see massive streaks of lightening flashing crashing down upon the mountains and the surrounding plains.
Sunset itself was just a color sensation! From golden yellows, to burnt oranges, to reds that literally set the horizon ablaze. The colors didn't last long, and neither did most of the others who came to partake; they quickly disappeared back up the trail as the light from the sky disappeared. Yet their loss was completely our gain! There was just enough light in the sky to light up Wotan's Throne, so one could distinctly see the outline of its enormous shape, and the biggest treat....the Milky Way directly overhead! Just spectacular!
Sadly, the one detractor of the whole star-gazing extravaganza was the airplane pollution. At one point, I counted upwards to 8 planes in the sky at once, their blinking lights distracting our gazes from the beauty of the stars. Heck, there were so many of them, it was difficult to even pick out any of the satellites that can normally be so easily seen!
It was well after dark when we headed back to the car. Hours, in fact. But the hike was so easy, it didn't take but a moment. With the exception of J's hat being "eaten" by a tree branch, we made it back to Argo w/out an issue. In fact, we had a few bats follow the path of the beam from J's headlamp! Heck, we had a few owls do the same as we drove back to the campsite. They just followed the beam of light, just ahead of us.
We had a long way to go, even after making it back to the car; heck, at least another 30+ minutes or so! Even as tired as we both were, we ran across a unique occurrence. With the temperatures dropping so quickly, and the ground still warmed from the afternoon sun, there was this mist that we drove through as we came to dips in the road. The trees along the road were drenched in dew, that looked almost like frost from a distance.
By this time, it was super late and it was well after 9pm by the time we made it back to camp! We had a quick dinner-snack by lantern light before crawling into bed. I wish I could say it was lovely and warm, but once the sun departed the earth, the temperature plummeted to below 40! Anything below 50 is just not acceptable IMHO! It was well after 2am before I was finally able to warm up enough to feel my fingers and toes, even with Jason-the-portable-heater at my side! Heck, I was even so cold that when I was walking back from the potty I actually got lost. What with the unfamiliar landscape, hunched over by the cold and very little in the way of lights, I was just utterly turned around. Oh sure, I eventually made it back... but it was a bit disturbing to realize how quickly I was able to get turned around!
It wasn't an early morning the next day; in fact we almost missed our "check-out" time. Not really sure what the day would hold, we decided to head on over to Bright Angel Point near the lodge. Because I was still chilled from the night before, I dressed accordingly; however, the sun quickly proved to me that it wasn't necessary. At least I had layered, because I quickly started peeling them off the longer we lingered in the sun. In fact, I almost got a sunburn from hanging out at Bright Angel Point for so long!
Afterwards, we headed back to the campsites, hoping to get another night and Fortuna was with us again! Not only was there availability, but we scored on along the rim! How. Cool. Is. That. I ask you!?!
So, since we were there, we stopped for a bite of lunch before heading back out. This time we went to Imperial Point. We actually didn't spend a lot of time there and soon found ourselves on the road heading back to Cape Royal, this time with the big flashlight. J had wanted to do some light painting; however, the little flashlight we took with us the evening before just wasn't strong enough to light up Wotan's Throne. So this time we took the BIG flashlight.
Again, we made it out there with plenty of time to spare and this time, instead of a lizard friend, I had a mousie friend (although he didn't show up until after sunset). While the thunderstorms over the San Francisco Peaks had tapered significantly, we could see the south side still getting pummeled by thunderstorms. Tonight, however, we were followed to the point by this massive thunderhead. While it stayed just to our north, clouds and rain never hindering our sunset viewing at Cape Royal, it did offer us spectacular displays of virga... all of which turned to golds and pinks as the sun set.
We didn't stay out as late as we did the previous night. Our hike back, in the dark of course, was without incident... though we did hear several very loud HOOTS of owls off in the distance. Again, we made it back late. Again, we had dinner by lantern light. Again it was hella-freakin-cold. No, I did not get lost coming back from the loo ;)
This morning we tore outta the campsite with our tails on fire; I had to be back home for work and Arizona is an hour behind Utah (yeah... how dumb is that?!). We stopped for breakfast at Jacob's Lake Inn and, other than the service lacking and the cook not knowing how to cook proper basted eggs, we had a pretty decent (albeit quick) breakfast.
And that was that... I made it back home with plenty of time to get ready for work.
Pics forthcoming... still being processed
We started late, per the norm (it's like we cannot get out of the house before noon) and made a bee-line to Kanab, were we stopped for lunch at this cute-as-a-button diner, Rewind Cafe, were I fell in love with their eight-bean soup; it was stupendous!
Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim
Map of Grand Canyon National Park
Deciding on the path least traveled, we took Forest Service Rd22 the "back" way into GCNP. It wasn't any faster than the main road, but it was significantly prettier and much less traffic! We made good time, even with the dappling of the trees hiding all the potholes. One of the most spectacular things about the drive from Utah to the North Rim is the amazing shift in environments. From high desert, to desert, to small pine covered mountains and then way, way, waaaay up into alpine-like forests filled with aspen and fur trees; just stunning!
As Fortuna would have it, we scored a campsite right off the bat with no hassles. We swung by our site quickly, before heading out to Cape Royal, for sunset and star watching. On the way out, we were discussing some of the unique characteristics of the wildlife at the rim, when surprise, surprise I saw my very first Kaibab Squirrel... which we promptly almost ran over as the dumb-shit flung itself, kamikaze style, right in front of Argo's tires! Luckily enough, J's ninja reflexes saved the foolish creature, and we continued on our way.
Kanarra Creek Lower Falls
Kanarra Creek Small Falls
After the hike into Kanarra Creek, I was so sure that the hike from the parking lot to Cape Royal was gonna be a royal pain in the you-know-what... but it wasn't! It was a nice, quick jaunt. No huffing and puffing at 8000+ feet due to large elevation change. No slogging through chilly waters. Just a quick trek, and within minutes we came to the edge of the canyon... to a straight... drop... DOWN! We climbed over the railing and headed out closer to the ledge, and that's were we pretty much spent the next 4 hours or so. In fact, I had a little lizard buddy, whom I named (quite appropriately and without surprise), "George." He was the friendliest and bravest lil lizard guy I'd ever met!
While waiting for the sun to set, we watched the changing landscape across on the South Rim side; massive thunderstorms right over the San Francisco Peaks. It was like the mountains held onto the storm system, refusing to allow it to abate overhead, but just as it blew off to the south, it would dissipate into nothingness. And, as the sun set, it turned the cranky-grey clouds beautiful shades of peach and pink, even coloring the rain as it fell upon the peaks. Once the sunset, thought, we could distinctly see massive streaks of lightening flashing crashing down upon the mountains and the surrounding plains.
Sunset itself was just a color sensation! From golden yellows, to burnt oranges, to reds that literally set the horizon ablaze. The colors didn't last long, and neither did most of the others who came to partake; they quickly disappeared back up the trail as the light from the sky disappeared. Yet their loss was completely our gain! There was just enough light in the sky to light up Wotan's Throne, so one could distinctly see the outline of its enormous shape, and the biggest treat....the Milky Way directly overhead! Just spectacular!
Sadly, the one detractor of the whole star-gazing extravaganza was the airplane pollution. At one point, I counted upwards to 8 planes in the sky at once, their blinking lights distracting our gazes from the beauty of the stars. Heck, there were so many of them, it was difficult to even pick out any of the satellites that can normally be so easily seen!
It was well after dark when we headed back to the car. Hours, in fact. But the hike was so easy, it didn't take but a moment. With the exception of J's hat being "eaten" by a tree branch, we made it back to Argo w/out an issue. In fact, we had a few bats follow the path of the beam from J's headlamp! Heck, we had a few owls do the same as we drove back to the campsite. They just followed the beam of light, just ahead of us.
We had a long way to go, even after making it back to the car; heck, at least another 30+ minutes or so! Even as tired as we both were, we ran across a unique occurrence. With the temperatures dropping so quickly, and the ground still warmed from the afternoon sun, there was this mist that we drove through as we came to dips in the road. The trees along the road were drenched in dew, that looked almost like frost from a distance.
By this time, it was super late and it was well after 9pm by the time we made it back to camp! We had a quick dinner-snack by lantern light before crawling into bed. I wish I could say it was lovely and warm, but once the sun departed the earth, the temperature plummeted to below 40! Anything below 50 is just not acceptable IMHO! It was well after 2am before I was finally able to warm up enough to feel my fingers and toes, even with Jason-the-portable-heater at my side! Heck, I was even so cold that when I was walking back from the potty I actually got lost. What with the unfamiliar landscape, hunched over by the cold and very little in the way of lights, I was just utterly turned around. Oh sure, I eventually made it back... but it was a bit disturbing to realize how quickly I was able to get turned around!
It wasn't an early morning the next day; in fact we almost missed our "check-out" time. Not really sure what the day would hold, we decided to head on over to Bright Angel Point near the lodge. Because I was still chilled from the night before, I dressed accordingly; however, the sun quickly proved to me that it wasn't necessary. At least I had layered, because I quickly started peeling them off the longer we lingered in the sun. In fact, I almost got a sunburn from hanging out at Bright Angel Point for so long!
Afterwards, we headed back to the campsites, hoping to get another night and Fortuna was with us again! Not only was there availability, but we scored on along the rim! How. Cool. Is. That. I ask you!?!
So, since we were there, we stopped for a bite of lunch before heading back out. This time we went to Imperial Point. We actually didn't spend a lot of time there and soon found ourselves on the road heading back to Cape Royal, this time with the big flashlight. J had wanted to do some light painting; however, the little flashlight we took with us the evening before just wasn't strong enough to light up Wotan's Throne. So this time we took the BIG flashlight.
Again, we made it out there with plenty of time to spare and this time, instead of a lizard friend, I had a mousie friend (although he didn't show up until after sunset). While the thunderstorms over the San Francisco Peaks had tapered significantly, we could see the south side still getting pummeled by thunderstorms. Tonight, however, we were followed to the point by this massive thunderhead. While it stayed just to our north, clouds and rain never hindering our sunset viewing at Cape Royal, it did offer us spectacular displays of virga... all of which turned to golds and pinks as the sun set.
We didn't stay out as late as we did the previous night. Our hike back, in the dark of course, was without incident... though we did hear several very loud HOOTS of owls off in the distance. Again, we made it back late. Again, we had dinner by lantern light. Again it was hella-freakin-cold. No, I did not get lost coming back from the loo ;)
This morning we tore outta the campsite with our tails on fire; I had to be back home for work and Arizona is an hour behind Utah (yeah... how dumb is that?!). We stopped for breakfast at Jacob's Lake Inn and, other than the service lacking and the cook not knowing how to cook proper basted eggs, we had a pretty decent (albeit quick) breakfast.
And that was that... I made it back home with plenty of time to get ready for work.
Pics forthcoming... still being processed