(no subject)
"The surf was high and I felt a combination of fear and eagerness as I took off my clothes and walked toward it. In the backlash of a huge wave I plunged and let it suck me out to sea. Moments later I was hurtling back towards the beach on top of a long white breaker that carried me along like a torpedo. Then it spun me around like a dead fish and slammed me on the sand so hard that my back was raw for days afterward.
I kept at it as long as I could stand up, riding out with the riptide and waiting for the next big one to throw me back at the beach.
It was getting dark when I quit and the bugs were coming out, millions of diseased little gnats, impossible to see. I felt a thick black tast in my mouth as I stumbled towards the car."
I kept at it as long as I could stand up, riding out with the riptide and waiting for the next big one to throw me back at the beach.
It was getting dark when I quit and the bugs were coming out, millions of diseased little gnats, impossible to see. I felt a thick black tast in my mouth as I stumbled towards the car."