I've hit a roadblock with the bodice I'm sewing for one of my independent studies, and I need advice on how to bone it.
Here's a picture of the vest. It's worn over a Victorian corset and made to fit over a faux bustle.
CB - red line, left
Back dart - blue line, left
Side seam - dark purple
Front darts - blue lines, right
CF - red line, right
Waist - yellow dots
I know I need some boning to prevent wrinkling, since it fits snugly over the corset, but where exactly should I bone it? I've research some online (and btw, this is my own pattern so I don't have any instructions to go by - I'm wingin' it!), and it seems that where and how boning is added is really up to the seamstress. Should I bone at all of the darts and major seams? Center front (I'm going to have a button closure), side seams, and back? There are four fish-eye darts in front and two in back. Should all of them be boned as well? And if so, should the boning extend the complete length of the dart, or should it end at the waist? If the boning for the back and side seams extend past the waist, will this interfere with the bustle?