Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet... [Book Review]
So, I promised you all book reviews starting tonight, so here is my first official one. eleanors_closet had asked if there were any on period tailoring techniques. Sadly, as far as I know those were tailoring secrets and none were written about in the 16th century (if I am incorrect, please, someone let me in on that secret).
There are tailoring books, including Alcega's, and I could have done a review on that book (and may, in the future). But her question made me think of a modern book that helped me when I made my own husband a doublet in 2004, as seen here. Don't let my bad interpretation of a doublet fool you with the information from this book. My husband didn't want certain things, like actual stuffing for the peascod shape, which changed the look of the final garment I made. It was also my first attempt to make something period, and ended up making it more peri-oid instead.
The book is "Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish Renaissance" by Robert W. Trump (ISBN 0-9623719-2-0). I bought it many years ago from Green Duck Designs for $15 (their price sticker is still on the back cover). I see from addall.com that the book is now out of print, and the cheapest is $48. Perhaps a library can get a copy for you if you are interested. It is a simple softcover book, that was published by a small publishing company. Alfarhaugr Publishing Society of Eugene, Oregon. Printed originally in 1988, with this edition 1991. RW Trump was known as Robert Sartor von Pays Bas within the S.C.A., and was a pattern maker and tailor for the Repertory Theatre of St. Louis and the Opera Theatre of St. Louis at the time of the book's publication. According to this web page, he was made a Master of the Laurel in 1978.
The book, according to the Introduction area, was originally presented as a set of six lectures for the S.C.A., then the draft and garments presented as six individual papers, and then with some editing was brought together into this one book. So, instead of chapters, the book is broken down into six books, as you can see in this photo below. The books are 1. Doublet Draft, 2. Doublet Construction, 3. Trunkhose Draft, 4. Trunkhose Construction, 5. Accessories, and 6. Appendices. This photo below shows the different sections (click and click again for a larger view).
So, what is inside? Well, the book title/titles pretty much says it all. There is info on how to draft and then sew up a doublet and a pair of trunkhose. The doublet information is based on Libro De Geometria of Juan De Alcega, 1589, otherwise known as the Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. Trump uses the version that was translated by J. Pain and C. Bainton. Since Alcega did not give a pattern for trunkhose or breeches, Trump adapted the examples take from Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold and offers a simple pair of trunkhose.
Trump states that he intended this book to be for those who want a method of interpreting the clothes in "as faithful a manner possible, while making the work as little labor intensive as possible without sacrificing the basic physical construction practices of the time." The patterning method is modern, and was created by Trump, as he also wasn't privy to how the tailors of the 16th century either. In other words, he created a flat pattern method of his own which he called the Sartor system. He says he bases it on what was known from period practices, but to be as simple as possible for modern folks. The garments are designed to be both machine and hand sewn.
So does his Sartor pattern drafting system work? Well, at this point I have to go from hazy memory, but yes, in most ways it does. At least for the doublet which was the only portion I have used so far. Basic measurements are taken, and a basic set of lines are drawn. Some of the lines are based on general proportions instead of actual measurements (which if your man is not of average proportion somewhere can be a problem). He does this in three stages, and he is pretty clear in each step as to what is needed.
The photo below shows the finished shape of his doublet draft, with some of my measurement notes penciled in. Trump also discusses the cassock, and while no specific pattern is given, if you get the doublet draft down, the cassock becomes an extension of the doublet with some minor changes which he discusses.
After encouraging a person to make a mockup of the basic doublet pattern, he then gets to Book 2 to construct the doublet. I bet you are wondering what this doublet looks like? We finally get to a drawing of it on page 31, with a dark b&w photo of it on page 32. I didn't take a photo of the photos, as well, they are dark enough that it is hard to tell what the man is wearing. And if you can't tell, it is supposed to be a peascod shaped doublet, tho' not heavily so.
The line drawings are much better than the photos, as you can see in this image below. Remember, this is a small-published book from the 1980s, when full colored photo books like we get today were very expensive to print. That Trump also included these line drawings alongside the photos really help to clarify what is going on. He does also include line drawing schematics to clarify certain sewing & tailoring techniques, but it is not like modern Big 3, or Margo Anderson pattern company that give step by step line drawings. You have to read each step, and reread it sometimes, to understand what it is Trump is explaining in his drafting and construction information.
Trump also provides info on how to create laced in sleeves. You can also sew them in, which for men seems to be the historical method (or at least it seems so with what few extant doublets have sewn in sleeves). His patterning method for the two part angled sleeves seems very simple and straightforward, and I will be experimenting with the method for my own set of instructions.
The next two chapters are on drafting the pattern for the trunkhose, and on making them up. As I mentioned earlier, I did not use this info, as my husband wanted a simpler pair (that were horrid, but that wasn't Trump's fault - perhaps I should have done them with his method). But the info within seems as clear as the info on the doublets were.
The chapter on Accessories covers three items. First a codpiece which is based on an extant one of 1560. Then a simple set of informal ruffs that Trump calls Fraises, which seems decently made although a bit confusing at a glance - using only 2 pages and one illustration. He then provides info on making modern tying laces using modern ribbon and heat shrink electrical wiring insulation, among other materials. I know he was trying to keep things simple but period looking, but I suggest today making braided laces with metal tips instead, if you can.
Book 6 is the Appendices, where he locates the Measurement Formulae that he used in his pattern drafting system. Then a glossery of terms that is helpful, from fabric types, to garment terms, to specific patterning terms that Trump uses like "muscle point - On the front of a man's chest, that place where the large muscle attaches the chest to the arm, near the bottom of the shoulder joint. The distance between the muscle points is called the Front Width". I hadn't known that before.
So, that is the book in a long nutshell. I know there are more modern books that offer mens patterns for the period (and I will cover those later), but this one was my first for understanding a man's set of historical clothing, and Trump covered it well. Trump offers various notes along the way, and tries to include as much period references as possible. The drawback to his historical comments is that he does not share his specific sources if they are not Alcega or Arnold. Should I need to make another man's doublet, I won't hesitate to use the information in this book. As I do plan someday on making a woman's doublet, I'm not sure how accurate his patterning method would be on me (I doubt the proportions would be the same), but his construction methods would be helpful.
If you have any questions, please ask in the Comments. If you have any suggestions for books to review, please let me know in the Comments.
There are tailoring books, including Alcega's, and I could have done a review on that book (and may, in the future). But her question made me think of a modern book that helped me when I made my own husband a doublet in 2004, as seen here. Don't let my bad interpretation of a doublet fool you with the information from this book. My husband didn't want certain things, like actual stuffing for the peascod shape, which changed the look of the final garment I made. It was also my first attempt to make something period, and ended up making it more peri-oid instead.
The book is "Drafting & Constructing a Simple Doublet & Trunkhose of the Spanish Renaissance" by Robert W. Trump (ISBN 0-9623719-2-0). I bought it many years ago from Green Duck Designs for $15 (their price sticker is still on the back cover). I see from addall.com that the book is now out of print, and the cheapest is $48. Perhaps a library can get a copy for you if you are interested. It is a simple softcover book, that was published by a small publishing company. Alfarhaugr Publishing Society of Eugene, Oregon. Printed originally in 1988, with this edition 1991. RW Trump was known as Robert Sartor von Pays Bas within the S.C.A., and was a pattern maker and tailor for the Repertory Theatre of St. Louis and the Opera Theatre of St. Louis at the time of the book's publication. According to this web page, he was made a Master of the Laurel in 1978.
The book, according to the Introduction area, was originally presented as a set of six lectures for the S.C.A., then the draft and garments presented as six individual papers, and then with some editing was brought together into this one book. So, instead of chapters, the book is broken down into six books, as you can see in this photo below. The books are 1. Doublet Draft, 2. Doublet Construction, 3. Trunkhose Draft, 4. Trunkhose Construction, 5. Accessories, and 6. Appendices. This photo below shows the different sections (click and click again for a larger view).
So, what is inside? Well, the book title/titles pretty much says it all. There is info on how to draft and then sew up a doublet and a pair of trunkhose. The doublet information is based on Libro De Geometria of Juan De Alcega, 1589, otherwise known as the Tailor's Pattern Book 1589. Trump uses the version that was translated by J. Pain and C. Bainton. Since Alcega did not give a pattern for trunkhose or breeches, Trump adapted the examples take from Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold and offers a simple pair of trunkhose.
Trump states that he intended this book to be for those who want a method of interpreting the clothes in "as faithful a manner possible, while making the work as little labor intensive as possible without sacrificing the basic physical construction practices of the time." The patterning method is modern, and was created by Trump, as he also wasn't privy to how the tailors of the 16th century either. In other words, he created a flat pattern method of his own which he called the Sartor system. He says he bases it on what was known from period practices, but to be as simple as possible for modern folks. The garments are designed to be both machine and hand sewn.
So does his Sartor pattern drafting system work? Well, at this point I have to go from hazy memory, but yes, in most ways it does. At least for the doublet which was the only portion I have used so far. Basic measurements are taken, and a basic set of lines are drawn. Some of the lines are based on general proportions instead of actual measurements (which if your man is not of average proportion somewhere can be a problem). He does this in three stages, and he is pretty clear in each step as to what is needed.
The photo below shows the finished shape of his doublet draft, with some of my measurement notes penciled in. Trump also discusses the cassock, and while no specific pattern is given, if you get the doublet draft down, the cassock becomes an extension of the doublet with some minor changes which he discusses.
After encouraging a person to make a mockup of the basic doublet pattern, he then gets to Book 2 to construct the doublet. I bet you are wondering what this doublet looks like? We finally get to a drawing of it on page 31, with a dark b&w photo of it on page 32. I didn't take a photo of the photos, as well, they are dark enough that it is hard to tell what the man is wearing. And if you can't tell, it is supposed to be a peascod shaped doublet, tho' not heavily so.
The line drawings are much better than the photos, as you can see in this image below. Remember, this is a small-published book from the 1980s, when full colored photo books like we get today were very expensive to print. That Trump also included these line drawings alongside the photos really help to clarify what is going on. He does also include line drawing schematics to clarify certain sewing & tailoring techniques, but it is not like modern Big 3, or Margo Anderson pattern company that give step by step line drawings. You have to read each step, and reread it sometimes, to understand what it is Trump is explaining in his drafting and construction information.
Trump also provides info on how to create laced in sleeves. You can also sew them in, which for men seems to be the historical method (or at least it seems so with what few extant doublets have sewn in sleeves). His patterning method for the two part angled sleeves seems very simple and straightforward, and I will be experimenting with the method for my own set of instructions.
The next two chapters are on drafting the pattern for the trunkhose, and on making them up. As I mentioned earlier, I did not use this info, as my husband wanted a simpler pair (that were horrid, but that wasn't Trump's fault - perhaps I should have done them with his method). But the info within seems as clear as the info on the doublets were.
The chapter on Accessories covers three items. First a codpiece which is based on an extant one of 1560. Then a simple set of informal ruffs that Trump calls Fraises, which seems decently made although a bit confusing at a glance - using only 2 pages and one illustration. He then provides info on making modern tying laces using modern ribbon and heat shrink electrical wiring insulation, among other materials. I know he was trying to keep things simple but period looking, but I suggest today making braided laces with metal tips instead, if you can.
Book 6 is the Appendices, where he locates the Measurement Formulae that he used in his pattern drafting system. Then a glossery of terms that is helpful, from fabric types, to garment terms, to specific patterning terms that Trump uses like "muscle point - On the front of a man's chest, that place where the large muscle attaches the chest to the arm, near the bottom of the shoulder joint. The distance between the muscle points is called the Front Width". I hadn't known that before.
So, that is the book in a long nutshell. I know there are more modern books that offer mens patterns for the period (and I will cover those later), but this one was my first for understanding a man's set of historical clothing, and Trump covered it well. Trump offers various notes along the way, and tries to include as much period references as possible. The drawback to his historical comments is that he does not share his specific sources if they are not Alcega or Arnold. Should I need to make another man's doublet, I won't hesitate to use the information in this book. As I do plan someday on making a woman's doublet, I'm not sure how accurate his patterning method would be on me (I doubt the proportions would be the same), but his construction methods would be helpful.
If you have any questions, please ask in the Comments. If you have any suggestions for books to review, please let me know in the Comments.