High Necked Smock in Progress
Actually, I am almost done, but am waiting to finish it after dinner tonight, or maybe tomorrow morning as I'm feeling blah.
For the fabric, I am finally using the linen I bought in L.A. Garment District last year, after CoCo. This stuff is lovely, a nicer weave than the stuff found at fabrics-store.com, with far less slubs and finer threads. It is a light-medium weight, heavier than hankey weight, which also means I won't be showing off parts of me I don't want to. But not a full medium weight like I usually make my outer garments from. And it was only $7/yd since I bought 10 yards of it. I only used 2 yards, and have enough left over from that 2 yards to make another coif when I get my pattern back.
I ended up using the Smock Generator that other folks have used. This is my first time doing so. I had planned to use the pattern I had, but it is missing, so smock generator ended up faster than retracing all those pieces. Besides, I felt if I used it and it worked well, I could suggest it to my local Barony, since it creates a basic tunic like so many in the SCA use. What I found out is that it also offers a simple T-tunic pattern if you check an option for that instead. And you get directions on sewing it together, which I kinda ignored after understanding the basics - which is a modern method of sewing.
I started by washing and pressing the linen. Then I cut off one cut edge along a single thread to square one end - and used that and the selvedge for measurements. I set the body length for 72", which is 2 yards - hitting me at the knees with no shoulder seams. Once I marked out the body and sleeves, I found the side gores ended up closer to 11" instead of the planned 13". But the side gores are not required to be a certain measurement, the gores are to make the body wide enough for my hips, and they worked out just fine. The side gores ended up a little too high - where my underarm gussets ended up partly sewn into the body side gores. But that's ok, and is period, since it makes more room for my bosom area. I ended up with plenty of room at the bosom area, instead of being a bit snug with the other pattern, as the generator seems to use the widest part of the body, or adds in a little ease. The sleeves are also roomy.
The pattern generated worked out pretty well, but it is designed for a square necked smock, and I wanted a high-necked smock, so that part I'm having to play around a bit. The collar slit (8" wide slit) has to be cut lower in the front so I can breathe. It should also lengthen things enough so that my collar, which has a slight overlap so I can breathe, will actually fit the opening I cut. There is nothing to gather as it currently is a little too small compared to the collar piece, but should be fine once I cut the front down a bit.
(Note for my future smock - if I want a gathered smock for the collar, cut wider (10" maybe?), don't cut off the shoulders down to fit, and cut down the front to front collar bone, then gather into collar. Or make a mockup piece to work it out.)
Sewing the smock pieces together has been faster than expected. The pattern is designed to be machine sewn, so the underarm gussets are cut in half, so that they end up being part of the final sewing to put the parts together. I'm used to finagling with the intact square underarm gusset seams which takes more time.
I also made sure to sew the bias side gore to the straight of grain of the body part, leaving the side seams also on the straight grain. I'm not sure if the construction directions notes this. Doing that helps the bias edges from stretching too much.
With some thinking, I was able to both sew, and serge, most of the garment, since linen will fray like crazy if left with seams unfinished. The few little bits that were unfinished were hit with the fray check since I don't want to hand finish those bits.
The cuff opening is folded and sewn, and the split of the collar area is hand sewn. The little shoulder gussets that I added in (2" squares folded in half) are completely hand sewn in little tiny stitches, which took awhile and cramped my hands last night. They also got put in inside out (ah well). The collar and cuffs are machine gathered, partly machine sewn, and will be hand finished tonight. I'm thinking hook & thread eyes for closure on the cuffs, and will have eyelets for a cord at the collar - so the ruff can be attached with the same cord.
Overall I am rather happy with the garment shapes as generated by the program. If I had wanted a square necked smock it would have been less hassle. I also am very happy with how fast it sewed up, and plan to make more smocks, and colorful tunics, using this setup since I've got the pattern measurements.
I was hoping to get the ruff done tomorrow, but the lace I ordered (from Dharma Trading #LH106) has not shown up. So I may have to borrow one again this year. The ruff will be a suit, with smaller ones at the wrists. I can make and starch one in one day, but it takes at least a day to dry in the sun (not baking them ever again) and then set. We leave Friday afternoon. I guess I'll see what happens.
And the hand blackwork pattern I mentioned before has been started. I'm starting with the collar slit area, in the bottom corner and the pattern looks lovely. I may even be able to add in a plaited braid stitch for the path as it is wide enough for one. If I do, I will practice the stitch to get it looking good first.
For the fabric, I am finally using the linen I bought in L.A. Garment District last year, after CoCo. This stuff is lovely, a nicer weave than the stuff found at fabrics-store.com, with far less slubs and finer threads. It is a light-medium weight, heavier than hankey weight, which also means I won't be showing off parts of me I don't want to. But not a full medium weight like I usually make my outer garments from. And it was only $7/yd since I bought 10 yards of it. I only used 2 yards, and have enough left over from that 2 yards to make another coif when I get my pattern back.
I ended up using the Smock Generator that other folks have used. This is my first time doing so. I had planned to use the pattern I had, but it is missing, so smock generator ended up faster than retracing all those pieces. Besides, I felt if I used it and it worked well, I could suggest it to my local Barony, since it creates a basic tunic like so many in the SCA use. What I found out is that it also offers a simple T-tunic pattern if you check an option for that instead. And you get directions on sewing it together, which I kinda ignored after understanding the basics - which is a modern method of sewing.
I started by washing and pressing the linen. Then I cut off one cut edge along a single thread to square one end - and used that and the selvedge for measurements. I set the body length for 72", which is 2 yards - hitting me at the knees with no shoulder seams. Once I marked out the body and sleeves, I found the side gores ended up closer to 11" instead of the planned 13". But the side gores are not required to be a certain measurement, the gores are to make the body wide enough for my hips, and they worked out just fine. The side gores ended up a little too high - where my underarm gussets ended up partly sewn into the body side gores. But that's ok, and is period, since it makes more room for my bosom area. I ended up with plenty of room at the bosom area, instead of being a bit snug with the other pattern, as the generator seems to use the widest part of the body, or adds in a little ease. The sleeves are also roomy.
The pattern generated worked out pretty well, but it is designed for a square necked smock, and I wanted a high-necked smock, so that part I'm having to play around a bit. The collar slit (8" wide slit) has to be cut lower in the front so I can breathe. It should also lengthen things enough so that my collar, which has a slight overlap so I can breathe, will actually fit the opening I cut. There is nothing to gather as it currently is a little too small compared to the collar piece, but should be fine once I cut the front down a bit.
(Note for my future smock - if I want a gathered smock for the collar, cut wider (10" maybe?), don't cut off the shoulders down to fit, and cut down the front to front collar bone, then gather into collar. Or make a mockup piece to work it out.)
Sewing the smock pieces together has been faster than expected. The pattern is designed to be machine sewn, so the underarm gussets are cut in half, so that they end up being part of the final sewing to put the parts together. I'm used to finagling with the intact square underarm gusset seams which takes more time.
I also made sure to sew the bias side gore to the straight of grain of the body part, leaving the side seams also on the straight grain. I'm not sure if the construction directions notes this. Doing that helps the bias edges from stretching too much.
With some thinking, I was able to both sew, and serge, most of the garment, since linen will fray like crazy if left with seams unfinished. The few little bits that were unfinished were hit with the fray check since I don't want to hand finish those bits.
The cuff opening is folded and sewn, and the split of the collar area is hand sewn. The little shoulder gussets that I added in (2" squares folded in half) are completely hand sewn in little tiny stitches, which took awhile and cramped my hands last night. They also got put in inside out (ah well). The collar and cuffs are machine gathered, partly machine sewn, and will be hand finished tonight. I'm thinking hook & thread eyes for closure on the cuffs, and will have eyelets for a cord at the collar - so the ruff can be attached with the same cord.
Overall I am rather happy with the garment shapes as generated by the program. If I had wanted a square necked smock it would have been less hassle. I also am very happy with how fast it sewed up, and plan to make more smocks, and colorful tunics, using this setup since I've got the pattern measurements.
I was hoping to get the ruff done tomorrow, but the lace I ordered (from Dharma Trading #LH106) has not shown up. So I may have to borrow one again this year. The ruff will be a suit, with smaller ones at the wrists. I can make and starch one in one day, but it takes at least a day to dry in the sun (not baking them ever again) and then set. We leave Friday afternoon. I guess I'll see what happens.
And the hand blackwork pattern I mentioned before has been started. I'm starting with the collar slit area, in the bottom corner and the pattern looks lovely. I may even be able to add in a plaited braid stitch for the path as it is wide enough for one. If I do, I will practice the stitch to get it looking good first.