Musings details of the "Phyllis Writing" dress
Well, the kids projects are done, so it is now time to focus on making the Phyllis Writing outfit for the Black Rose Ball (see image right).
I am still torn... make it as a kirtle, or make it as a gown. (time passes...) Or go with a third option which is most likely what I will do (adding 3 layers to the mix eventually). I think like a few others have done so (namely peronel at her website here, and I think myladyswardrobe), I will make a fitted support bodice with attached skirt (to be known as the petticoat layer) to wear under the outfit shown in the image. The outfit in the image then will be called the kirtle. But it won't be thick with support layers, but thinner and designed to be worn over the actual support petticoat layer. I will create a long sleeved gown later to go over all.
Why? Because I don't like all the support layers that my current kirtle has on it. That was (iirc), outer silk fabric, padding layer (cotton flannel, iirc), canvas, boning, then the under layer of drill. I did not add a lining layer to all that.
I also want the supportive layer to only be two layers of canvas or drill (or one of each), quilted together only. No boning this time, to see how well it still supports. I know from my blue linen kirtle that this is doable although that was not quilted together - that one was just medium linen and a drill underlayer. This will also require close fitting, but I can start from the bodice pattern of my linen kirtle.
While the petticoat should be red, I don't have any red silk and don't want to make it from red wool - tho' I could, as I have that in stash already. I do have a medium blue-gold shot dupioni (minimal slubs) silk that I purchased from sarahbellem a few years back that I think will be enough to use for the petticoat layer. There is 4 yards, 53" wide, which should be enough for the bodice and minimal skirt, on a gore plan I think. The color is not too bad against the purple & gold damask (the gold threads match, and the resulting purple shadows nearly match), but they won't be seen together as one will fully cover the other. This should also allow me to wear just the petticoat layer as a kirtle at faires, probably with different sleeves of some sort to be worn under a Tudor gown. Nice to maximize my fair wearing options, as the purple & gold will be a no-no for the most part (unless I somehow end up playing a royal, not just a courtier.) It should also be light enough to be comfortable at certain warm Tudor events. Or I could make it from red wool - I just don't know how cold it will be in October (in southern California, in a hall).
I will most definitely need to make a new smock for this, as my current smock sleeves are not full enough to pull through in the manner shown in the image. Since the bodice is tight and there is no camicia look to the body, that portion will remain English snug in width; just the sleeves will be full. Also, looking at the lower sleeve, it appears that there are 2 slashes in the sleeve which is curved, perhaps on the bias, with one having the extra sleeve fullness pulled through. This would match the upper sleeves which have 2 slashes on the bias (but no pullings through). I will have to play with the fullness to see how full to make them, as it has been years since I've done full fluffy sleeves - and have normally avoided them*.
I will also have to make blue fingerlace cords for all the points on that kirtle. This also means buying or making brass aglets for the ends.
One thing I most likely will change from the inspirational image is the lack of headwear. Yes, she is wearing a circlet of some sort, but I don't have any sort of circlet, and I don't want to be confused for a pointy hat at an SCA event. So a simple Anne of Brittany style hood will be worn instead, like her ladies are wearing. It is a good thing I have one mostly completed already - I just have to rework the pearl billiments that are on it, as I want some bling somewhere on the outfit.
Speaking of bling... I think I am seeing something happening on the bodice, but the image is too small to figure out what. I think a little bit of pearling on the gold neckline area would be nice and simple. Or maybe a little glass beads or something - period appropriate. This I will think about, as the only thing besides her circlet is the 3 layers of chain with simple pendant. I am also seeing a light yellow stripes or something horizontally across the white of her bodice, but I can't tell why or what it is. Maybe it was a woven stripe in the white damask, but I don't see it elsewhere on her skirts.
Other details I can see is:
- I can see the upper neckline of the smock is edged in gold - tho if there is gathering into that square-ish neckline, I can't tell. I'll just edge it with gold trim or embroidery or something. It will mean the smock won't be done till the bodice is, so I can cut the square out properly.
- a darkened edge on the wrist of the kirtle, and on each gold panel stripe. I don't know if that is artistic or what. I may add in a piped edge to the sleeves, but I don't think I will pipe the edges of each gold panel, or trim it or anything more than just sew the panels together.
- I see a gold chain girdle going from under her right arm, across and down to her left side above the knee. I might have an old length of jewelry chains, triple chains, that if I haven't gotten rid of it yet might be reworked into the girdle.
And I just realized that this is one talented Queen! She can write her letter that is on the table to the left (and partly behind) of her actual body, without having to twist and turn. That, or the ladies had just moved her table away from her with the letter still on it, while she held her pen in hand, perhaps so she can stand up. In other words, the artist is ... I have no idea what. Looking at the perspective lines of the ceiling... probably on opium or whatever drug of the period.
* anyone doing Italians have any suggested rule of thumb on how full to make these sleeves?
{x-posted to dressdiaries}