Sinterklaas
survival guide
Having learned the truth about
jovial Santa Claus the hard way, you now have to come to grips with
Sint Nicolaas and Zwarte Piet. Cormac Mac Ruairi and Pep Brouwers
present a guide to help you make the transition.
When it comes to discussing the Dutch phenomenon of Sint Nicolaas and
his feast day, Sinterklaas, on 5 December, many expats go straight for the
jugular: his black "helpers", (Zwarte Pieten, singular Zwarte Piet) are
really a caricature of black slaves.
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Zwarte Pieten, not chimney
sweepsA libel, say Dutch traditionalists.
To them, Zwarte Piet is Sint's valued companion; his black hue may owe
more to his clambering up and down chimneys than his ethnic origin.
(Although it is unclear how soot can bring about frizzy Afro hair and big
red lips.) There is another view, held by both some expats and locals,
namely: who cares? Sinterklaas is about having fun and goodwill to all.
Your view on the subject will help you pass the hours in rigorous
arguments with opponents in the bar or at work but it won't help you get
through Sinterklaas with Dutch in-laws and a brood of expectant
children.
Here are some pointers that might help:
Who's that guy?
According to the online Wikipedia, Saint Nicholas, also known as
Nikolaus in Germany and Sinterklaas (a contracted form of Sint Nicolaas)
in the Netherlands and Flanders, is the common name for the historical
Saint Nicholas of Myra.
Saint Nicholas lived in 4th century Byzantine Lycia (modern Turkey) and
had a reputation for secret gift-giving. He is seen as the main
inspiration for the character of Santa Claus. Among Orthodox Christians,
he is remembered with more reverence and less frivolity.
For some reason he resides most of the year in Spain and comes by boat
to the Netherlands - with his Moorish Zwarte Pieten - in the latter part
of November in preparation for his present-delivery service on 5 December.
While here, he rides around on a white horse.
Whatever you think about his 'helpers', Saint Nicholas has all manner
of dubious friends: he is saint of seamen, merchants, archers, children,
prostitutes, pharmacists, lawyers and prisoners, and of Russia and
Amsterdam.
Putting your shoe out
When Sint is in the country, children traditionally put their shoe
next to the heater/chimney. Nowadays they put their shoe next to the
radiator, because the Piets have no trouble crawling through them either,
apparently.
In the shoe is usually a carrot or two sugar lumps for Saint Nicholas'
white horse, with which he traverses the roofs of the houses. In the
morning the carrot will have been replaced by a little sweet. In order not
to have to give sweets every day, some parents make up stories about how
the Sint only comes in their street twice a week or something like
that.
Can I eat now?
Lots and lots of sweet things, including
• chocolate letters - in all shapes and sizes
• peper
noten - quite big, tough gingerbread nuts. Not to be confused
with:
• kruidnoten - gingerbread buttons, differently spiced
than the above - more like:
• speculaas - spice
biscuit/cookie
• taaitaai - gingerbread men (taai means tough and
that's what they are)
• suikerbeest - animal shapes made of
coloured sugar
• fondant - sugar and butter buttons or heart
shapes
• frogs and mice - chocolate covered fondants shaped as
frogs and mice
If your young children are raised here, this is a required shopping
list. Taking out supplementary health insurance to cover major dentistry
is also a idea. Unfortunately, this is not part of Sint's gift
package.
Who's knocking?
If you have children, make an appointment with your neighbour to come
knocking on your door on 'Pakjesavond' (= parcel evening, December 5 =
when you hand out the presents). After some loud bangs on the door, stall
a little while by saying things like "What was that?" and "that couldn't
be …?", to give your neighbour time for a clean getaway.
Then, the whole family goes to the door and voila! - a big box/bag of
presents. And no Sint or Piet to be seen - a mystery!
Of course, some time later, dad or mum "has to go to the loo" for
quite a long time, so he or she can do the same for the neighbour. The
traditional instructions refer to "dad", but we don't want Sinterklaas to
be linked with sexism.
If you hire a Sinterklaas actor, try to book him early in the evening,
so he won't have had time to imbibe prior to the vital task.
Surprises
Adults and teenagers usually give each other presents by drawing names.
The idea is that you don't just buy a present, you build in a "surprise"
(could be anything) and hide the present inside it. Then you wrap the
surprise, put the receiver's name on it and write a Sinterklaas poem to go
along with it.
This is the part that many newbie expats with Dutch in-laws dread - not
only do you have to write a poem, preferably in Dutch - you have to read
the poem attached to your present. Think of it as a
Dutch class; you are bound to make mistakes, but that is how you
learn a language.
Shakespeare
Lets face it, most of us can never hope to match the Bard. Yet taking
the trouble to pen a few lines is sure to ingratiate you with your Dutch
in-laws. It isn't so difficult.
First-timers can write the poem in English (or German, French etc - the
Dutch are linguists).
The main thing is that the poem, which has to rhyme, usually has
some references to the receiver as well as some hints about what the
present is. So, the receiver has to guess what it is before unwrapping
it.
Do you know what this is referring to?
Daarom hebben Piet en Sint voor jou iets heel
speciaals gezocht
iets waardoor je altijd lachend door het leven gaat.
Het was werkelijk een vreselijk gezoek.
Maar één ding vraagt de Sint,
draag het en plein publiek altijd ónder een
bovenbroek*
As with most things in life, you can cheat. You could use an
online
Sinterklaas
poem generator if you know a little Dutch.
The routine
On the 5 December it's present night. Adults, especially
relatives, don't always go for the 'surprise' option, but just buy
presents for everyone. Again, these are placed in a big box or pile and
the same procedure ensues about handing out the presents, so you never
know who gave you your present, although you can usually tell from the
poem.
It is said that the Saint has his own birthday the next day, 6 December
and he wants to give everyone presents to celebrate this. However, he
always spends his birthday travelling back to Spain, where he lives. He
travels by steamship (although he was around long before steam ships were
invented).
The presents are all put on a big pile. Usually the youngest person
gets to pick a present first. Then that person takes one of the presents
from the pile and gives it to its rightful owner - and so on. In this way,
it is unclear who actually gave you the present, so you have something
else to guess about.
Integration
It would seem that at least some non-native Dutch residents from the
former Dutch colonies of the Netherlands Antilles and Suriname are getting
in on the fun.
This writer was handed some peper noten by a real black Zwarte
Piet recently in a fast food restaurant in the south-east of Amsterdam -
an area full of non-white residents. Some Turkish, Hindustani
and Moroccan children in the area were singing Sinterklaas songs and
dressed as mini-Piets.
Has racial stereotyping become ingrained in the immigrant communities
in the Netherlands. Perhaps, or maybe children of all races
like sweets and presents?
Interestingly, a report on Dutch television about one of the former
colonies featured a Sint with his face painted white. What does this
mean?
We hope this guide helps you make the most of Sinterklaas, and avoid
being 'played the Zwarte Piet' (being made the scapegoat) for spoiling the
evening.
Enjoy and best wishes.
[Copyright Expatica]
Hahaha, Saint Nicolas was the "saint of seamen,
merchants, archers, children, prostitutes,
pharmacists, lawyers and prisoners, and of Russia
and Amsterdam."