I have now seen it twice and feel confident having an opinion!
On the topic of "I kind of wish they had made a different movie"
Tony is a more open character than Steve, who's always been pretty stoic and has gotten more so over the course of the MCU; if we were going to spend that much time with Tony (surely someone grumpy in fandom has clocked screen time; I would be entirely unsurprised to learn that Tony has more non-punchy screen time than Steve) they were going to run the risk of him eating the movie. And for me that happened, just because we saw so much more of Tony's thought process, what Tony was feeling, what Tony wanted, what Tony's internal struggles were, and we very little of that for Steve. He had about thirty seconds of dialogue about the Accords before Peggy died and he walked out, at which point events caught up with him and the only other conversation he had on the topic was basically "well, if it'd help Bucky... you did what to Wanda? JESUS CHRIST TONY WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU." I really, really wish they had either given him some more oomph on that point - have him try to convince Natasha! Give us his conversation when he called Clint! Let him point out that the Chitauri were certainly not the Avengers' fault and also Wanda - or had him come down harder on the purely selfish "yeah, I see your point and it makes sense, but Bucky, so I don't care" side of things. (I really don't see that Steve's issues with the Accords have much of anything to do with Bucky - they intersect in some inconvenient ways, but Steve's opinion on the Accords is already formed by the time of the bombing in Vienna.)
So I'm kind of sad that the last Steve movie I expect us to get was a movie that I experienced as something between Avengers III and Iron Man IV. I wanted more Steve than I got.
My main actual criticism is that there are a number of ways in which this movie doesn't stand up to thinking about it too hard, starting with "a hundred and seventeen countries are ready to sign an agreement on enhanced individuals and NO ONE HAS HEARD ANYTHING ABOUT IT." The sound you just heard was my suspension of disbelief completely failing and crashing to the ground. I spent a lot more time thinking "uh, that's nonsensical" than I did in Winter Soldier. But it worked a lot better for me character-wise than Age of Ultron; the motivations were more in place for the main characters, I think. (And I say that as someone who was fine with Natasha/Bruce.)
On the plus side, it was still fun as hell, and as someone invested in the Steve-and-Bucky relationship I have no complaints on that front. Sure, openly Big Emotions would have been nice, but what we got was reasonable character-wise and plenty intense on its own. T'Challa was better and smarter than you, just as he should be. Sam was salty as hell throughout. The fight scenes were all great. Natasha is still my favorite - oh, Natasha, trying so hard to make things work out okay, and not, I would like to point out, telling a single lie at any point in the movie. (She changed her mind at the airport; that's different.) RHODEY DIDN'T DIE. I enjoy Dad-I'm-Too-Old-For-This-Shit Clint so so much. Giant-Man! (I've seen one Raft jailbreak story that had Hope in it; I'm just going to go ahead and assume that happened.) Tom Holland was great as Peter. Despite being kind of irritated by the amount of movie he took up, Tony was genuinely affecting throughout; he was really trying to do the right thing, he almost always really tries to do the right thing (stop trying to murder Bucky, Tony), but he has Engineers' Disease and it falls apart on him, poor guy.
So, not my favorite MCU movie, still a lot of fun, I enjoyed it a lot. Looking forward to Black Panther like crazy; kind of dreading Infinity War, honestly - I'd kind of hoped Steve would die in Civil War because they they'd have had to bring him back and I didn't see them killing him twice - but what can you do.