Sequels are never as good
I hate the UN, although I admit I have less tolerance for Obama's visits than I did for Bush's. (Possibly bc I was less worried about Bush sucking up to Dinnerjacket.) The only car company that had anything available was Lincoln Limousine -- which sent us a white stretch limo, but an hour late. Grr. Fortunately, our flight was delayed half an hour. NRod seemed to think being the driver meant she got to choose the route, but she was wrong and I directed her through I-64/77, which took 75mins door to door.
I thought The Loft room at the Morris Harvey was creepy when I saw it last year, but it was the only room with private bath available for this more busy weekend. At 11pm, the second bedroom was even creepier, with pastel drawings of children everywhere. NRod and I decided to share the full in the other room rather than sleep there. Finding National Geographics from 1951, the hall lightbulb burning out, and regularly bumping our heads didn't improve our impression of the room.
After we booked, we discovered it was a Chicks With Picks weekend. While I've been curious about their events, we'd be missing the Fri night dinner and they only provide a half day of climbing on Sunday, so NRod and I went on our own. We couldn't go with last year's guides, bc they were all doing the Chicks event, so we went out with Hard Rock Climbing. Jessa was inexperienced as a guide, but sweet, eager-to-please, an excellent climber/leader, and our height.
We went back to Bridge Buttress, which was shockingly empty considering its easy access and classic climbs.
Monkey See, Monkey Do 5.5 * -- That first climb is always a toughie, reconfiguring your search function. Lots of those round holds where the sandstone was worn away on both horizontal and vertical cracks. After climbing in the Gunks so much, I found it startling that the horizontal cracks aren't deep enough for a tri-cam and those funny pockets in the rocks. There was also a flake that seemed like it would break in my hand, but it didn't. Climbed 1.5x, once from the easy start beside the fence and then tried the harder start. Got it, but didn't go all the way bc Natalia looked impatient.
Easily Flakey 5.7 *** This felt much cleaner.
Zag 5.8 *** - I slipped off once, but for the most part, climbed it fairly strong, with some puzzlement. Jessa spent her time yelling at us to put our feet in the crack. Heh.
Chockstone 5.9 *** There were a bunch of young men watching, but I still fell once or twice, one time hitting my left ear (and head) below the helmet line on the roof. The roof was a bit hard and I hung the rope somewhat.
Jaws 5.9 *** I'm feeling the crack-y love.
The Secret Sandwich Society is no longer open in the mornings, so we had to drive 15mins back to town for lunch. The owner was a bit bitchy this year and the McKinley seemed to have more mayo? this year. My system was unhappy the next morning, like last year, although in both cases I don't know if it was the McKinley or salads at Pies & Pints. I'd still go back to SSS, but I wouldn't go out of my way for it.
Junkyard Wall was also a repeat from last year.
New River Gunks 5.7 *** - still horizontal cracks around a corner and through a mini-roof. Didn't use the corner as much this year, did it faster and cleaner
New Yosemite 5.9 *** Jessa reminded us to keep left hand thumbs down, match the hands on the crack. Mostly though, I concentrated on looking for bulges that would fit my fist. Musta been doing something right though, bc Natalia said I look like a crack climber. She tried it a second time and made me too, but I got 10' off the ground, practicing good crack form, before I decided I didn't want it badly enough. Despite taping up for it, my hands were scraped and turned pink when they were clean. I might even have bruises. I think my weekend in the Daks helped. This is the stuff that makes NRG different than the Gunks and this is why I come.
When I packed for the trip, I noticed the rubber splitting on my only pair of climbing shoes. I thought I'd send it in for re-soling in December, before I left for Ouray, so I could take a few weeks off and not have to rent shoes. By mid-morning on Saturday, both shoes had split rubber and I could feel my feet slipping more than they ought. I asked Jessa about borrowing shoes from her company, but she said even my cracked Mythos would be better. She works at the local gear shop and said we could have the client discount, so after climbing on Sat, NRod and I went through the whole store. I've never been fitted for climbing shoes before - my first pair were stolen from my sister and my current Mythos were a super-find at REI's garage sale - so even though everyone said they're the best all-around shoe, I tried on four other pairs. After a little conversation, the laconic kid suggested I try something a little more aggressive, a little more high performance, and brought me Katanas, Veloces, Scarpa Thunder, and La Sportiva Miura. He said I'd end up with the last, although I should try on the others for comparison; he said he's never heard a negative comment about the Miuras. Until me. I assumed I'd love the Miuras best bc my current climbing, approach, and mountaineering shoes are all La Sportiva, whereas Scarpa is said to have wider shoes. When I put on the Thunders, it was like a glove. I have custom made boots that fit no better. Whereas the Miuras felt tighter around the bridge of my foot with a squooshy, even loose heel. If Jessa were there to get us the discount, I might've bought a pair of size 36.5s right there.
Fortunately, she wasn't. My Mythos are labelled size 36: I wonder if they are mislabelled, bc I tried on 36.5s in all the shoes. We came back in the morning with Jessa and for giggles, I asked to try on a 37 as well. They didn't have it in stock so this morning's fitter brought me the 37.5. I didn't even look at the box before putting the shoes on. They fit like a glove - and then I discovered they were the 37.5s. oops. At the cliff, I found I couldn't walk between climbs with them, like my Mythos, but then you're not supposed to do that. Even though they are the same size as the Mythos, there's something adorable about them, like children's shoes or maybe enchanted fairy shoes. Oh, and they are purple. Best. Climbing. Souvenir. EVUH! I have shoes by Gucci and Prada in my closet, but I love these better.
After the shoe shopping adventure, we picked up lunch and headed to Beauty Mountain, where we finally encountered the Chicks Sans Picks Bogarting the cliff. We walked to the end so we could find something to warm up on. At the Ram's Head wall, we climbed Beginner's Luck (5.7) a boring little climb with a scramble to a ledge and then a large flake. It was just a warmup for the superclassic Supercrack (5.9 ****). 100' starting on a pile of boulders, leading to a little chimney, and then up and out to a long stretch of mostly laybacking. The ratings are softer at New River Gorge than at my home crag, but this was challenging, thoughtful problem solving. NRod didn't care for the start and didn't want to do anymore crack climbing, so we went back to The Brain wall. You Want It, You Got It (5.9 ** 60', 5 bolts) had more sealike holds; it was a bit tricky and I fell a little. NRod found Brain Tweezers (5.10c *** 60', 5 bolts) in the book. I would've been disappointed if we didn't try any 10s while we were there, bc nothing we climbed felt too hard, but I like to end the day on a positive note. I protested the 5.10c as the finisher - particularly as this would be my last outdoor rock climb of the year - but I'm glad I was overruled. Brain Tweezers was awesome: definitely thought provoking, requiring much shifting of balance to reach the cup like holds. No particular strength required; I have no idea why it's rated 5.10c. I climbed it a second time and believe I could get it clean with a few more runs. If we lived there, I'd climb it every other week until I could get it perfect, so I could show off in front of cute climber boys.
This year we went to Pies & Pints on Sat night and Vandalian's on Sun, which was a mistake. P&P was a zoo, with a bachelorette party and rowdy rafters. Vandalian's was delicious as always and they served MacMurray pinot noir, one of the few wines I've ever gone back to buy more of for my cellar. Unfortunately, half a bottle was enough for me to sleep badly and wake with night terrors about the movie The Others (the only horror film I've seen in the past decade). The drive to CRW was smooth enough and we found a rest stop with a gas station on 64/77 that I should remember from the drive out. Unfortunately, NRod was snarly when I offered help backing out and then in the cab from the airport - we should've dropped her off first, but I didn't choose the order. I came back awfully grumpy considering what great climbing we had.
I thought The Loft room at the Morris Harvey was creepy when I saw it last year, but it was the only room with private bath available for this more busy weekend. At 11pm, the second bedroom was even creepier, with pastel drawings of children everywhere. NRod and I decided to share the full in the other room rather than sleep there. Finding National Geographics from 1951, the hall lightbulb burning out, and regularly bumping our heads didn't improve our impression of the room.
After we booked, we discovered it was a Chicks With Picks weekend. While I've been curious about their events, we'd be missing the Fri night dinner and they only provide a half day of climbing on Sunday, so NRod and I went on our own. We couldn't go with last year's guides, bc they were all doing the Chicks event, so we went out with Hard Rock Climbing. Jessa was inexperienced as a guide, but sweet, eager-to-please, an excellent climber/leader, and our height.
We went back to Bridge Buttress, which was shockingly empty considering its easy access and classic climbs.
Monkey See, Monkey Do 5.5 * -- That first climb is always a toughie, reconfiguring your search function. Lots of those round holds where the sandstone was worn away on both horizontal and vertical cracks. After climbing in the Gunks so much, I found it startling that the horizontal cracks aren't deep enough for a tri-cam and those funny pockets in the rocks. There was also a flake that seemed like it would break in my hand, but it didn't. Climbed 1.5x, once from the easy start beside the fence and then tried the harder start. Got it, but didn't go all the way bc Natalia looked impatient.
Easily Flakey 5.7 *** This felt much cleaner.
Zag 5.8 *** - I slipped off once, but for the most part, climbed it fairly strong, with some puzzlement. Jessa spent her time yelling at us to put our feet in the crack. Heh.
Chockstone 5.9 *** There were a bunch of young men watching, but I still fell once or twice, one time hitting my left ear (and head) below the helmet line on the roof. The roof was a bit hard and I hung the rope somewhat.
Jaws 5.9 *** I'm feeling the crack-y love.
The Secret Sandwich Society is no longer open in the mornings, so we had to drive 15mins back to town for lunch. The owner was a bit bitchy this year and the McKinley seemed to have more mayo? this year. My system was unhappy the next morning, like last year, although in both cases I don't know if it was the McKinley or salads at Pies & Pints. I'd still go back to SSS, but I wouldn't go out of my way for it.
Junkyard Wall was also a repeat from last year.
New River Gunks 5.7 *** - still horizontal cracks around a corner and through a mini-roof. Didn't use the corner as much this year, did it faster and cleaner
New Yosemite 5.9 *** Jessa reminded us to keep left hand thumbs down, match the hands on the crack. Mostly though, I concentrated on looking for bulges that would fit my fist. Musta been doing something right though, bc Natalia said I look like a crack climber. She tried it a second time and made me too, but I got 10' off the ground, practicing good crack form, before I decided I didn't want it badly enough. Despite taping up for it, my hands were scraped and turned pink when they were clean. I might even have bruises. I think my weekend in the Daks helped. This is the stuff that makes NRG different than the Gunks and this is why I come.
When I packed for the trip, I noticed the rubber splitting on my only pair of climbing shoes. I thought I'd send it in for re-soling in December, before I left for Ouray, so I could take a few weeks off and not have to rent shoes. By mid-morning on Saturday, both shoes had split rubber and I could feel my feet slipping more than they ought. I asked Jessa about borrowing shoes from her company, but she said even my cracked Mythos would be better. She works at the local gear shop and said we could have the client discount, so after climbing on Sat, NRod and I went through the whole store. I've never been fitted for climbing shoes before - my first pair were stolen from my sister and my current Mythos were a super-find at REI's garage sale - so even though everyone said they're the best all-around shoe, I tried on four other pairs. After a little conversation, the laconic kid suggested I try something a little more aggressive, a little more high performance, and brought me Katanas, Veloces, Scarpa Thunder, and La Sportiva Miura. He said I'd end up with the last, although I should try on the others for comparison; he said he's never heard a negative comment about the Miuras. Until me. I assumed I'd love the Miuras best bc my current climbing, approach, and mountaineering shoes are all La Sportiva, whereas Scarpa is said to have wider shoes. When I put on the Thunders, it was like a glove. I have custom made boots that fit no better. Whereas the Miuras felt tighter around the bridge of my foot with a squooshy, even loose heel. If Jessa were there to get us the discount, I might've bought a pair of size 36.5s right there.
Fortunately, she wasn't. My Mythos are labelled size 36: I wonder if they are mislabelled, bc I tried on 36.5s in all the shoes. We came back in the morning with Jessa and for giggles, I asked to try on a 37 as well. They didn't have it in stock so this morning's fitter brought me the 37.5. I didn't even look at the box before putting the shoes on. They fit like a glove - and then I discovered they were the 37.5s. oops. At the cliff, I found I couldn't walk between climbs with them, like my Mythos, but then you're not supposed to do that. Even though they are the same size as the Mythos, there's something adorable about them, like children's shoes or maybe enchanted fairy shoes. Oh, and they are purple. Best. Climbing. Souvenir. EVUH! I have shoes by Gucci and Prada in my closet, but I love these better.
After the shoe shopping adventure, we picked up lunch and headed to Beauty Mountain, where we finally encountered the Chicks Sans Picks Bogarting the cliff. We walked to the end so we could find something to warm up on. At the Ram's Head wall, we climbed Beginner's Luck (5.7) a boring little climb with a scramble to a ledge and then a large flake. It was just a warmup for the superclassic Supercrack (5.9 ****). 100' starting on a pile of boulders, leading to a little chimney, and then up and out to a long stretch of mostly laybacking. The ratings are softer at New River Gorge than at my home crag, but this was challenging, thoughtful problem solving. NRod didn't care for the start and didn't want to do anymore crack climbing, so we went back to The Brain wall. You Want It, You Got It (5.9 ** 60', 5 bolts) had more sealike holds; it was a bit tricky and I fell a little. NRod found Brain Tweezers (5.10c *** 60', 5 bolts) in the book. I would've been disappointed if we didn't try any 10s while we were there, bc nothing we climbed felt too hard, but I like to end the day on a positive note. I protested the 5.10c as the finisher - particularly as this would be my last outdoor rock climb of the year - but I'm glad I was overruled. Brain Tweezers was awesome: definitely thought provoking, requiring much shifting of balance to reach the cup like holds. No particular strength required; I have no idea why it's rated 5.10c. I climbed it a second time and believe I could get it clean with a few more runs. If we lived there, I'd climb it every other week until I could get it perfect, so I could show off in front of cute climber boys.
This year we went to Pies & Pints on Sat night and Vandalian's on Sun, which was a mistake. P&P was a zoo, with a bachelorette party and rowdy rafters. Vandalian's was delicious as always and they served MacMurray pinot noir, one of the few wines I've ever gone back to buy more of for my cellar. Unfortunately, half a bottle was enough for me to sleep badly and wake with night terrors about the movie The Others (the only horror film I've seen in the past decade). The drive to CRW was smooth enough and we found a rest stop with a gas station on 64/77 that I should remember from the drive out. Unfortunately, NRod was snarly when I offered help backing out and then in the cab from the airport - we should've dropped her off first, but I didn't choose the order. I came back awfully grumpy considering what great climbing we had.