Green Light-Fittings Successful!
I had my last fitting Thursday, and on Friday I sorted out all of the details and pattern corrections for BOTH of my commissions!
J's 1810 french infantry coat- The pattern is 1805 Habit Longe, by A Stitch out of Time and God I hate this pattern!!! I think J felt a little bad for giving me a bum pattern, but it's not his fault. It's the only pattern for the style he wanted and I have actually learned quite a bit from the experience! Long story short while doing the fit modifications I discovered it wasn't just my imagination, the lining really was significantly bigger than the outer fabric! That along with the original Sleeve snafu makes me wonder what was up with that patternmaker... I found it much easier to re-draft the lining myself, I also used it as an opportunity to add some features to the coat. Because he said he didn't care about historical accuracy, I patterned a back lining vent and some interfacing pieces (I am going to use fusible weft) I think these will add nicely to the comfort and life of the coat while not being visable when worn.
During the fitting he also gave me the fabric he bought for the coat and it is SOOOOOO nice! It's a nice thick felted wool that dosent ravel at all (Important for the exposed edges designed into the coat) He also has some nice period accurate buttons on the way he is going to mail to me (Or at least message me with the width for the buttonholes then sew them on himself)
While Working towards this coat I have found a lot of good resources, so I wanted to share my Favorites:
Buttons: http://www.militaryheritage.com/button2.htm
Sashes, buckeles, medals, millinery: http://www.militaryheritage.com/m_access.htm
Metal lace and braids: http://www.militaryheritage.com/militarybraid.htm
Fabric: http://www.woolrich.com/woolrich/index.jsp (You have to call and ask specifically about reenactment fabric, they only sell clothes through the website)
Dawn Jacket: The fitting went extremely well!!! Only changes were to take the bust out and exaggerate the very 80's shoulders more. The whole collar/zipper area fit wonderfully, and she liked the princess seams so I didn't have to change any of that.
We settled on this fabric (http://www.mjtrends.com/products.Metallic-Green,PVC,Fabric) A metallic Green PVC, the fabric is very light, so I am going to interface it to give it a little more body (The original was patent leather) I ordered enough for the Jacket and the matching boot topers she is going to make herself. I also custom ordered a zipper because I couldn't find anything locally. Dark green 14" separating zipper except for the pull which is silver (Like the original) The zipper is from http://www.zippersource.com/howto/. She plans to attach all of the snaps, rivits and chains herself once she has the under-bodysuit completed. Once I finish the jacket and line it I plan to tack all of the placements for her.
Can't wait to cut into the fabric :)