4 days in Moscow
During december cooking classes, in Provence, la_marmotte proposed me to come to Moscow for belonika's book presentation. In the usual rush of my Bordeaux - Provence travels, life and work, I did new ID photos, filled the visa requests and sent the passport to an office working with russian consultate. Then I bought plane tickets - Charlie Tango has a little bit too short legs for a flight to Russia for just 5 days.
I got back my passport on the day before departure with a visa until 17 dec, and my return ticket is on 18 dec. Trying to change the departure date is more expensive than the whole trip and anyway, I don't want to miss the saturday evening. What do I risk? A fine? Cheaper than changing the plane tickets...
DAY 1
Got up at 5 am - as late as possible for a 7 a.m plane departure, checked the cats, and left home, drove to the airport and rushed in the security check. Then the plane was announced 1h30 late. So, missing my connecting flight, and in the end, arrived in Moscow.
There was almost no preparation for the trip. I only knew I've a flight to Moscow. No idea what we're doing there, no address, Marmotte gave me a russian phone number that I couldn't reach. Her french phone is off. I just managed to send her an email saying I'm coming with another flight, and had no reply. I don't even know if there will be someone for me. If not I'll probably go downtown to any hotel and wait for an answer...
Arriving in moscow, i got an SMS : "follow the Martex sign". I then felt like Neo in the movie "Matrix", "follow the white rabbit". "What is the Matrex?".
I saw the Martex guy, who drove me downtown through very wild areas and dark streets, trying to avoid traffic jams. He dropped me with my 2 weight limit suitcases in front of a restaurant. The street is busy, I see no marmot, no Nika, no party. No new SMS. Calling Marmot, no reply.
Okay, so I enter the restaurant (still pulling the suicases), the passage is narrow, doors are heavy, people are going in and out. Staring in, no Marmot, no party. A waiter comes to me... I ask :
-"Priviet, Isn't a book presentation event happing here tonight?"
Of course she doesn't talk english... I'm using my best russian :
-"Znayitie gde kniga... party... belonika... humm..."
Of course the girl turns back and leaves. An instant later, another girl comes and makes a sign to follow her. I'm following, She brings me behind the building, I suppose some people are waiting for me there with baseball bats to steal my stuff... But no, and I meet ola_laa and understand I ultimately arrived.
The party took place in a very nice restaurant, the Chefs are working hard, dishes taste delicious (esp. after Air France "meal" - and I know some airlines are even worse). I meet there people I know and it's a very nice feeling to find old friends, especially after this diving into unknown environment.
T he party ended, everyone and the chefs are happy; now let's go party downtown! Moscow, asta rojna, fransuski sdies!
We went to Pushkin (nice restaurant), drank some local vodka and we had a big nice evening among friends. Later (3 a.m.), Armand wants to go to dance, others want to sleep. I'm still on the french clock so it's only midnight for me, but I slept 4 hours the night before and i'm up since 5. And being in other city, around another language, having to deal with unknown culture and people is quite tiring. So we drop the Chefs at their hotel, and we go to our place (which is another 1h+ drive).
DAY 2
I slept a lot and we go downtown in the afternoon, met friends and later, the dinner started. A lot of our Provence friends came and it's the occasion to chat about many things. The dishes are even better than the day before, in my opinion. After midnight, Ira and Alevtina are still with us and propose to go to see Moscows' night life. We never say no! Rolling Stone (under repairs), Gypsy, and Red October, finishing at 6 a.m (after Armand sang Joe Dassin and new york new york in karaoke). Still 1h+ drive to go home.
Went in bed at 7h30, drunk. Set the alarm for 9h30.
DAY 3
Going downtown for a visit of Moscow. All the "young" Chefs are still sleeping, only Chef Bernard and her wife managed to get up. Now we know who is Moscow-proof. I remember my previous visit in Moscow; also in winter. It's raining, windy, cold and it manages to wake me up. In the end, I was very curious about all the details of the Moscow and Russian history. We went to Red Square, Gum Hall, Balchoï theater, Novodievitchi, visited some churches like Храм Христа Спасителя).
Later, we meet the rest of the team for the 3rd dinner. They are planning 220 dinners, 6 plates each. It's 1350 plates to prepare... I'm as useless as usual, so I start to think about going to sleep few hours. Chef Sylvestre offers me his room key, I accept and head to the hotel. But on the way (under the cold rain) I'm less and less sure of the place, I walk about 40 minutes until I find the place. I'm soaked and frozen. In the hotel entrance, Bernard's wife hails me : she couldn't find the restaurant herself.
"ok, give me 3 minutes and we go".
I go to sylvestre room, dry my hair and we walked back together to the restaurant. It was the best option because so I could meet many of our friends and we spent again a very nice evening; and finaly discussed with the restaurant owner until 3 a.m. On the way home, we call Sylvestre to check he's awaken : Chefs have to leave early back to France : Armand's restaurant reopens the same evening and Sylvester has to be in Courchevel for his restaurant there.
Then I slept for 14 hours...
DAY 4
We arrive at Kalinka bar, strange-but-not-bad decoration, a little empty but who cares, most of our dream team students are there and it was very nice to chat with quite everyone. Some asks how is Moscow. Well : tiring... beautiful... changed... expensive... too big... I visited many places around the world, this city is extreme in every way. I don't know how people can survive there as i'm half dead after 4 days. How they can spend half their free time in traffic jams. And still, I'm admirative to see there nice and open people.
After the Kalinka, left girls and marmotte and I head to Pushkin. Kissing dina who goes home and stay in the car, I extend myself to reach her cheek and **SNAP**, I flipped my thumb. Ouch! Not broken, just sprain. In the restaurant, I order blinis, red caviar, and a beef strogonof, and ice! Very good, but hard to eat with a hand in a pack of ice. Tried drinking some vodka to ease the pain. You know what? It worked!
We chatted about my illegal condition, as my visa expires in a few hours. Some wise girls told me it's not so intelligent to try to pass the passport control with expired visa. They're right. My usual глупость, нарциссизм, безрассудство. I start to mentally prepare for spending christmas in a russian prison. Vodka helps, again.
DAY 5
Packing again... Boris learnt about my visa issue, then gave a 30 seconds phone call; and put my mind at rest.
On the way to the airport, a "help" jumped in the car, shaked my painful hand, still no english talking, but my russian is improving.
We arrived there with my two suicases; bottles are replaced with books, still heavy and my thumb is still painful, but it's the least of my problems now. The "help" brought me to a salon, just asking :
"sadi. passport. ticket".
I gave him. He came back 10 minutes later, there was a shining new visa in my passport, from 18 dec to 18dec, date of entry 18 dec. That is efficiency!
Then I flew back to France, the plane was 1h30 late so I missed again the connecting flight, and arrived home slightly before midnight. Found the cats who stormed the house, the destructions due to Joachim tempest in the garden, the pile of mail, and went to bed. Tomorrow early, back to work with another pile of problems waiting on my desk. The Moscow parenthesis closes, Marmotte is still on her tour (kiev, minsk) until 25 dec. Give me few days to find a really amazing gift for her...