Lianas, Leeches and Lizards: Life in Labundo-bundo and Lambusango (Part 1)
Hello, everyone! I am finally home after my two-week-plus stint in Indonesia. I shall be lazy and simply transfer my diary entries to my LJ (of course, subtly edited). I had a really great time, though I did not exactly escape unscathed....
Day 1
2100: Arrived at Denpasar, Bali. My hotel does not seem to have hot water.
Day 2
0500: Flight to Makassar at seven-thirty, so had to get up early. Took another absolutely freezing shower.
0900: En route to Makassar, Sulawesi. Am messily dribbling jelly syrup all over my diary.
1125: At Makassar airport. I apparently have 5 hours here, so have arranged for tour to see waterfall. I have a feeling I'm paying a bit too much for this...
1300: I have decided that the trip is completely worth my while. Now at Bantimurung waterfall, an absolutely beautiful place with insane numbers of butterflies just swarming around the turquoise pools in psychedelic clouds. It is apparently very popular with the locals. A little too crowded for my liking, but I managed to find some quiet further upstream. A pity I was wearing my boots at the time and so could not bathe my feet. Well I suppose I could have, but it seemed like too much effort to take my shoes off.
I seem to have become some sort of tourist attraction myself, as I have been asked to pose for a photo with a group of giggling schoolgirls. I think it's the big black rucksack. And the fact that I look so Chinese that I seem Japanese. Now that didn't make sense. Perhaps I am getting dehydrated.
1630: Flight to Kendari, which is the capital of Southeast Sulawesi.
1930: Why on earth did my travel agent book me a room with two single beds in it? Oh well, at least there seems to be hot water.
2000: Yes, there is scaldingly hot water. And freezing cold water. Nothing in between. Can't decide which I prefer.
Day 3
0530: Met up with K, who's also a volunteer with the same organisation. Got transported to another hotel, which contained the rest of this week's batch of volunteers. There is a very whiny group of sixth-formers, with a teacher who might as well be branded with the words "OVERENTHUSIASTIC BIRDWATCHER" on his forehead.
0730: On the ferry to Buton Island. Apparently this takes about 5 hours. It is getting rather choppy, and the schoolchildren are getting a bit seasick. I love being on boats. Think I will go out on deck.
0900: It very pleasant out on deck. Not too sunny. Unfortunately, too choppy to risk getting my camera out to photograph the excellent scenery.
10ish: Have returned 'indoors', and am now inexplicably sitting next to the bird enthusiast. He has a book on the birds of Sulawesi, apparently. Entertained myself briefly by explaining what was in his snack bun (red bean paste).
Still 10-ish: The bird enthusiast has redeemed himself by pointing out a huge school of flying fish, which apparently think the ferry is some kind of fearsome predator.
1300: Disembarked on the island of Buton and am now in the town of Bau Bau. Off we go to the organisation's headquarters.
1400ish: Am squeezed in a tiny van with several volunteers. The vehicle is going at a breakneck speed, uphill, on a very rocky road. I can barely read my own writing. K. is here too, and trying to dry her washing by holding it out the window. I wonder what the locals think of lacy knickers hanging out of a speeding van?
1730: Have arrived at Labundo-bundo village, a nice, quiet-looking place. We will apparently be staying at a villager's home (for now). K. and L. (both from the same van) and I seem to have been assigned the same house, which is lucky.
Day 4
0400: I am seriously considering throwing a boot at that damned rooster.
0600: Went out on some kind of bird walk. The bird enthusiast was understandably even more enthusiastic than usual. I wish I'd brought my binoculars (I do some birdwatching at home). We saw a great many species-- several kinds of birds of prey, two sunbirds, and even black macques (monkeys). I took some pictures of the sun coming up behind the trees.
1700:The rest of the day was quite relaxed, just getting to know the people who are going on the mandatory jungle training together ( five girls! And K. and L. are going, too. The school group apparently is doing something else). Dani the guide took us on a walk around the village introducing some of the plant life, and I got to eat a bit of a cocoa fruit (doesn't taste like chocolate at all-- that's from the seeds). The villagers grow coffee here as well, and I find that I quite enjoy the local blend. Has quite a kick to it. We will be setting off into the jungle tomorrow, and I have packing to do.
Day 5
0500: Still in the village... off to a nearby patch of forest to hunt for tarsiers, which are a tiny sort of primate with huge eyes. One hears them all the time, but they are quite hard to spot. We managed to find two, which bounced from tree-trunk to tree-trunk like some kind of aboreal rabbit. I must say they look rather like Furbys, only in more sensible colours.
1200: We wave goodbye to civillisation.
1400: I have no idea why I keep falling down. Perhaps it is because my boots aren't ankle-length like the others', and keep getting nearly sucked off by the mud. It is supposed to be the dry season, but it keeps raining, and the trail is a nightmare. Otherwise it is a fairly scenic route, and not too demanding.
1500: Set up camp in a spot that could pass for a mud-wrestling pit. My shoes are completely sodden from crossing the river several times, and my sandals keep getting stuck in the mud. No hope of dry feet here! We are sleeping in hammocks tonight (thank goodness), and mine is damp already, from the rain (despite the 'waterproof' raincover over it).
Day 6
0700: We are apparently staying in this camp for two nights, but our guide thinks it's a good idea to take us trekking all over the place anyway. Had the unique experience of climbing a very steep, slippery hill in soaking wet boots, and then climbing (or rather sliding) back down again. The forest is very beautiful, though.
0800: We were taught how to cut firewood using a parang (a multipurpose heavy knife) and how to start a fire using only a lighter. I'm simply relieved we even have a lighter, because it's taking rather long to get the fire started!
10ish: Interesting insect life-- all kinds of colourful beetles flying around. One just landed on my dirty, smelly sock.
1100: We were taught how to properly read a map and navigate in the jungle. Trekked upriver (very literally, up the river) to a splendid waterfall, taking bearings every so often in an attempt to draw a map of the route (got the scale a bit wrong). Had a lovely time swimming in it, even though it was freezing cold!
By the way, it rained nearly the whole day. Nearly.
TBC
Day 1
2100: Arrived at Denpasar, Bali. My hotel does not seem to have hot water.
Day 2
0500: Flight to Makassar at seven-thirty, so had to get up early. Took another absolutely freezing shower.
0900: En route to Makassar, Sulawesi. Am messily dribbling jelly syrup all over my diary.
1125: At Makassar airport. I apparently have 5 hours here, so have arranged for tour to see waterfall. I have a feeling I'm paying a bit too much for this...
1300: I have decided that the trip is completely worth my while. Now at Bantimurung waterfall, an absolutely beautiful place with insane numbers of butterflies just swarming around the turquoise pools in psychedelic clouds. It is apparently very popular with the locals. A little too crowded for my liking, but I managed to find some quiet further upstream. A pity I was wearing my boots at the time and so could not bathe my feet. Well I suppose I could have, but it seemed like too much effort to take my shoes off.
I seem to have become some sort of tourist attraction myself, as I have been asked to pose for a photo with a group of giggling schoolgirls. I think it's the big black rucksack. And the fact that I look so Chinese that I seem Japanese. Now that didn't make sense. Perhaps I am getting dehydrated.
1630: Flight to Kendari, which is the capital of Southeast Sulawesi.
1930: Why on earth did my travel agent book me a room with two single beds in it? Oh well, at least there seems to be hot water.
2000: Yes, there is scaldingly hot water. And freezing cold water. Nothing in between. Can't decide which I prefer.
Day 3
0530: Met up with K, who's also a volunteer with the same organisation. Got transported to another hotel, which contained the rest of this week's batch of volunteers. There is a very whiny group of sixth-formers, with a teacher who might as well be branded with the words "OVERENTHUSIASTIC BIRDWATCHER" on his forehead.
0730: On the ferry to Buton Island. Apparently this takes about 5 hours. It is getting rather choppy, and the schoolchildren are getting a bit seasick. I love being on boats. Think I will go out on deck.
0900: It very pleasant out on deck. Not too sunny. Unfortunately, too choppy to risk getting my camera out to photograph the excellent scenery.
10ish: Have returned 'indoors', and am now inexplicably sitting next to the bird enthusiast. He has a book on the birds of Sulawesi, apparently. Entertained myself briefly by explaining what was in his snack bun (red bean paste).
Still 10-ish: The bird enthusiast has redeemed himself by pointing out a huge school of flying fish, which apparently think the ferry is some kind of fearsome predator.
1300: Disembarked on the island of Buton and am now in the town of Bau Bau. Off we go to the organisation's headquarters.
1400ish: Am squeezed in a tiny van with several volunteers. The vehicle is going at a breakneck speed, uphill, on a very rocky road. I can barely read my own writing. K. is here too, and trying to dry her washing by holding it out the window. I wonder what the locals think of lacy knickers hanging out of a speeding van?
1730: Have arrived at Labundo-bundo village, a nice, quiet-looking place. We will apparently be staying at a villager's home (for now). K. and L. (both from the same van) and I seem to have been assigned the same house, which is lucky.
Day 4
0400: I am seriously considering throwing a boot at that damned rooster.
0600: Went out on some kind of bird walk. The bird enthusiast was understandably even more enthusiastic than usual. I wish I'd brought my binoculars (I do some birdwatching at home). We saw a great many species-- several kinds of birds of prey, two sunbirds, and even black macques (monkeys). I took some pictures of the sun coming up behind the trees.
1700:The rest of the day was quite relaxed, just getting to know the people who are going on the mandatory jungle training together ( five girls! And K. and L. are going, too. The school group apparently is doing something else). Dani the guide took us on a walk around the village introducing some of the plant life, and I got to eat a bit of a cocoa fruit (doesn't taste like chocolate at all-- that's from the seeds). The villagers grow coffee here as well, and I find that I quite enjoy the local blend. Has quite a kick to it. We will be setting off into the jungle tomorrow, and I have packing to do.
Day 5
0500: Still in the village... off to a nearby patch of forest to hunt for tarsiers, which are a tiny sort of primate with huge eyes. One hears them all the time, but they are quite hard to spot. We managed to find two, which bounced from tree-trunk to tree-trunk like some kind of aboreal rabbit. I must say they look rather like Furbys, only in more sensible colours.
1200: We wave goodbye to civillisation.
1400: I have no idea why I keep falling down. Perhaps it is because my boots aren't ankle-length like the others', and keep getting nearly sucked off by the mud. It is supposed to be the dry season, but it keeps raining, and the trail is a nightmare. Otherwise it is a fairly scenic route, and not too demanding.
1500: Set up camp in a spot that could pass for a mud-wrestling pit. My shoes are completely sodden from crossing the river several times, and my sandals keep getting stuck in the mud. No hope of dry feet here! We are sleeping in hammocks tonight (thank goodness), and mine is damp already, from the rain (despite the 'waterproof' raincover over it).
Day 6
0700: We are apparently staying in this camp for two nights, but our guide thinks it's a good idea to take us trekking all over the place anyway. Had the unique experience of climbing a very steep, slippery hill in soaking wet boots, and then climbing (or rather sliding) back down again. The forest is very beautiful, though.
0800: We were taught how to cut firewood using a parang (a multipurpose heavy knife) and how to start a fire using only a lighter. I'm simply relieved we even have a lighter, because it's taking rather long to get the fire started!
10ish: Interesting insect life-- all kinds of colourful beetles flying around. One just landed on my dirty, smelly sock.
1100: We were taught how to properly read a map and navigate in the jungle. Trekked upriver (very literally, up the river) to a splendid waterfall, taking bearings every so often in an attempt to draw a map of the route (got the scale a bit wrong). Had a lovely time swimming in it, even though it was freezing cold!
By the way, it rained nearly the whole day. Nearly.
TBC