Sewing, thread, sewing machines + masking tape / duct tape differences

[lugiacollector]

Edit: This post contains lots of helpful comments for overall sewing method, machines and thread now!

I tried using the duct tape method of where you dull the tape by putting it against standard cloth/cotton a few times before applying it to the head, but it's become a huge mess where some pieces just haven't stuck together right, rips, shreds, too

Comments

[killpurakat]

You ruin enough sewing machines, you eventually start to learn, so I am very learned in this subject. ;) When it comes to sewing machines, I do have quite a few tips/tricks/horror stories to share. ;P

I tend to be a bit slow too. *glances at huge pile of fabric collected over the years and winces* So I totally get where you're coming from. But I'm a paranoid nutcase about my sewing, so I go over the seams three times when in question (not very often, but in the crotches of pants or underarm seams, it works nicely). I've found sewing the seam once works for most things just fine (and my corset-making book suggests only going over seams twice, so yeah, I'm just a paranoid nutcase XP). Probably just sewing it once and seeing what happens will be your safest bet.

I use regular Coats and Clarks thread with very few problems (and, honestly, I only have problems when I do something wrong). So you might try that.

Okay, onto what other problems this could be if the upholstry thread wasn't it. Maybe we can troubleshoot this...

The needle shouldn't be that hard to thread. If it is, the needle could be damaged or made for a thread that is much smaller (like those made for flimsy fabric), so you should switch to a different needle if you have a very hard time getting the thread through the eye. And look at the needle to make sure it isn't bent. Bent needles are no good and need to be replaced.

Also, double check how the spool on the top of the machine is positioned. Some spools will have a notch or slit in the plastic at one end. If this is the case for your thread, that end needs to be facing down on the spool, away from the end where the thread pulls loose, or else it can catch, drag, and generally wreck everything.

It may seem small, but double check to make sure the thread is passing through every point it should be. Once, I was sewing and minding my business when my machine started clunking terribly and the thread was pulled every which way. I found the problem to be part of the thread had jumped out of the arm (part that tugs the thread before it gets to the needle) and so was getting stuck in the bobbin. Took me five pieces of test fabric and 30 minutes to finally see it too. ^^;;;

Generally (not always), if the bobbin thread tangles easily, that means there's too much top tension, so you could try backing down a little. It also could be that the bobbin is in the wrong way (done this one SO many times -_-;;;). Double check that the bobbin is spinning in the correct direction when you pull the bobbin thread (and since I'm unfamiliar with the computerized Brothers, which are excellent machines BTW, you'll have to check your instruction manual to find out exactly how the bobbin should go and what direction it should spin).

Lint may be a culprit, so spray a bit of compressed air into certain areas of the machine.

Finally, I'm not familiar with those stitch lengths because I haven't messed with computerized machines enough, but do this: try to get a scrap piece of regular flat fabric (not fur) and sew a straight line. Take a ruler and measure the distance between the stitches. If the stitches are really, really close (1-3mm), then the thick fur material might be causing the problems (but the fix is to just widen the stitch length).

If nothing works, then perhaps the repair people did not do a proper job, so you need to take it back in and yell at them. But hopefully one of these suggestions will trigger something (if not the solution, then maybe towards the right path to a solution).

[lugiacollector]

Actually I recall sewing an entire fleece costume using upholstery thread and this machine without any problems. It's the thick fur fabric that makes this machine want to barf out thread like it has a flu O_O

I am just now using the attachment for this type of fabric as recommended, but I might have a feeling this machine just hates anything thick. The best thing I can do for now is flip the thread over and make the stitches huge in length so it goes through the machine more and keep my fingers crossed until a really old machine comes my way. :X

[killpurakat]

Yeah, sad for the sewing newcomers, but the older the machine, the better and longer it will last. Unless you are willing to spend money (then there's some brands that are sweet little workhorses able to do every job).

Good luck on hunting for an older machine! If you find two, maybe pass along that info? :) I've been trying for a few years, but every old machine I've come across has been too expensive (antique status jacks up the price such that newer high-end machines are the better deal), missing parts, or rusted up in such a way as to be unrepairable. ;_;

By attachment, do you mean a walking foot to help ease the fabric through the machine? Or is it something else for thick fabric?

[lugiacollector]

I got comments in this post stating that newer machines are better than older ones. Perhaps its a matter of opinion. It's hard for me to tell, but from comments it is stated that the walking food/feed wont work as good with older machines or will wear down. That's quite a problem :x

Yeah, I have a new attachment I just got I believe it's a walking foot. I probably broke my machine's timing because I wasn't using this before when I was sewing thick fabrics, but strangely it broke while sewing cotton and made a ball of thread at the bottom, strangely.

[killpurakat]

Well, it's more the fact that while older machines will have their own unique issues and needs, they DON'T have plastic parts. They were all metal (and in some cases wood for the base), and that can make a huge difference with heavy fabric projects. It's why people value old sewing machines so much and are very proud to be using the same machine their grandparents used.

For us furries, who don't do lots of fancy embroidery work or pretty seams and just want to do straight stitches, these older machines can do wonders. Like with everything, though, you have to take care of them, and that troubles some people, who would rather just throw stuff out and buy new the second something doesn't work (which isn't THIS community at all).

On the flipside, an old machine that was never taken care of won't do anybody any good, so you do have to be critical of what you buy, just like with anything else. And because it's an older machine, there's no warranty or factory guaranty, so if you have problems, you have nobody to go complain to (and if it needs a part, there's a chance that part is no longer made). You can only take it to be fixed and hope it can be and the parts aren't worn down to inadequacy.

Hmm... Walking feet for the top fabric are a good idea, but since this is an attachment (and thus takes up room when installed), you could try without and see if the machine works better. My Pfaff has a permanent one in place (which I only turn off for buttonholes because the buttonhole foot doesn't fit otherwise), but the only time I've found it absolutely necessary to use is on stretchy fabrics (like spandex) and slidy fabrics (like satin), because the foot keeps them in place. For fur backing, which isn't really stretchy or slidy, you may not need the walking foot.

Ugh...! I hate timing issues! >_<;;; They are so difficult to fix and avoid. I read below that you are looking into repairing the machine yourself, and I wish you the best of luck on that. :)

I have no clue why your machine made a thread ball, but if you figure it out, pass that info along! I'm curious to know why as well.