Are the sounds I was hearing all day today..
SUMO KICKS BUTT!!!!
Wow. What an interesting day. Very exciting, to say the least!
I took the train in alone today because both Melany and Chon were already in Osaka, and Tyson stayed home a bit longer to sleep.
I met Mel at Nanba station around 11:30, and we headed over to the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium. They were flying the colourful banners outside (remember Mom?? I was commenting on them as we were walking by one day when you were here) to announce the wrestlers.
There were people everywhere! It was really busy. We saw one taxi sink lower and lower as three big wrestlers got inside. We thought it would hit the road literally as it drove off! We watched some of the wrestlers coming into the gym from the street - massive guys, I can tell you!
We went inside and were told that we couldn't leave once we used our tickets. I guess that helps keep money inside the arena by forcing you to buy from them only. Smart and educated people brought their own food in with them!
A couple of ushers escorted us to our "box" which was really a teeny space with four cushions inside it, bordered by metal poles (we used them as armrests!). The arena itself wasn't so big, but it was pretty empty when we got there. They were wrestling since 9am, but these were the lower-on-the-totem-pole guys.. noone famous, sort of grunts, if you will.
We watched and drank some beer, talked and waited for the guys to show up. They gave us a detailed booklet guide to sumo, which was really helpful and a nice thing to have, considering nothing else was in English. I didn't even expect them to have those booklets, but it was nice that they thought of that.
Anyway, most people were coming in with these bags of stuff - we didn't know what they were until later - that actually were omiyage (or gifts of wrapped presents for people). I thought they were obentos (or box lunches), but upon later inspection, we found out they were gifts.
During the day, we got up and walked around at various times - mostly to stretch our cramped legs and backs - and I got to see many wrestlers as they were waiting their turns. Leg slapping, thigh smashing, leg lifting, etc - all were present among the baby-powder scented giants. They are so big! Even the 'little' guys are big. It's amazing.
I got some pictures of the Brazilian fighter, Kuniazuma (he didn't win, but people loved him), among the hordes of fans waiting around the wrestler's area. I took tons of photos - most of which I hope will be great for others to see.
There are two divisions in sumo - the Juryo (lower ranks) and the Makuuchi (high ranks including the yokozuna, or top wrestler). We got to see both, and many more matches. It's interesting because they have just imposed a law that says that each sumo stable (training house) can only use 1 foreign wrestler. The ones that have more than one now can keep their current wrestlers, but they can only have one import from now on.
Today I saw one Brazilian, three Mongolians, and the leader, an American. It's hard to tell them apart, since they all act and basically look the same!
Sumo is very complicated, but if you want to learn more or find information about sumo, search the web. Also, you can follow the rest of this spring's tournament at:
this site.. They follow the banzukeor division rankings, which are really interesting. They work up in rank and status from:
M = Maegashira (#1-14 position)
K = Komusubi (1 position)
S = Sekiwake (1 position)
O = Ozeki (2 positions)
Y = Yokozuna (1 position, the ultimate!)
The tally? Here are the results from today's big-name matches: (X = a win, E= East, W= West)
Makuuchi
E-M15 Tamarikido
W-M15 Wakanoyama X
E-M14 Oginishiki
W-M14 Takatoriki X
E-M13 Takamisakari X
W-M13 Towanoyama
E-M12 Shimotori X
W-M12 Oikari
E-M11 Hamanishiki
W-M11 Takanowaka X
E-M10 Tochisakae
W-M9 Daizen X
E-M9 Tamanoshima
W-M8 Kaiho X
E-M8 Miyabiyama X
W-M7 Tamakasuga
E-M7 Dejima X
W-M6 Hayateumi
E-M6 Aminishiki X
W-M5 Otsukasa
E-M5 Toki
W-M4 Tokitsuumi X
E-M4 Akinoshima X
W-M3 Kyokushuzan (Mongolia)
W-M2 Kotonowaka X (Mongolia)
W-S Asashoryu
E-S Kotomitsuki X
E-M3 Tochinonada
E-M2 Kyokutenho (Mongolia)
W-O Kaio X
E-O Musoyama
W-M1 Tosanoumi X
E-M1 Buyuzan
W-O Chiyotaikai X
E-O Tochiazuma X
E-K Wakanosato
E-Y Musashimaru X (American)
W-K Takanonami
For sure the last five bouts were super amazing with all the salt throwing and the start/stop stuff. They had one bout where the match was so close the judges had to meet in the dohyo(center ring) to decide the winner. The decision was a good one because noone through their cushions. The last match of the day with the yokozuna, Musashimaru, was the best of all, but the crowd ended up throwing cushions when he won. Hmm. Interesting.
At any rate, I had a fabulous time, and hopefully some of you will see some photos soon! Chon had a video camera there too, so I am going to get a copy of his tape from him. :)
Best things about my experience?
- the crowd cheering on the wrestlers by name, some of them cheering to oppose other fans
- the fancy formal dress of the referees in the dohyo, always colourful and regal
- the salt throwing
- the sound of slapping flesh that made you glad you weren't in the ring too
- the clapping of the fans on a good match (one with lots of mental play before the physical action happened)
- seeing smaller wrestlers take out the bigger ones with visual ease
- seeing wrestlers go tumbling out of the ring, almost crushing people nearby
- being a part of a truly Japanese cultural experience that I will never forget.
Ah. What a day. I'm exhausted. Time for bed!
Hope you enjoyed my mini-seminar on sumo.