Ancient Chernihiv
Church of St. Catherine was built by the Cossacks in the 17th century
I’ve visited Chernigov many times during business-trips and vacations - I really like this city!
I visited it again with my mom to show her the city and make an impromptu tour.
View of the Boldin mountains
In this modest town are as many as five large buildings 11-12th centuries. Now it’s a little city (300 000 residents) short way to Kiev (138 km), but long time ago it was powerful Slavic principality (“knjazhestvo”), it’s possible to compare it with Kiev and was one of the largest cities of Kievan Rus’.
As archeologists assert, first people lived here since neolith because comfort climate and suitable location - on the picturesque hills near Desna-river. In the middle-age the Slavic tribe Severians spread on this area as well as around the rivers Sejm and Sula and over arias.
Chernigov in the 12th century (reconstruction)
The largest cities of Severians were Kursk, Briansk and Murom (Russia) and Chernigov, Putivl, Gluchov and Novgorod-Seversky (Ukraine).
Spassky cathedral (11th century)
In the Boldin Mountains area in downtown is a very interesting place, it is called by the old memory ‘Detinets’ - fortress, fortification.
In the ancient times there was a wooden fortress surrounded by ramparts and moats. Part of this ramparts survive to this day. All of main building located here in antiquity, part of them was preserved.
The original form of the Spassky Cathedral
Principality of Chernigov was mentioned it Primary Chronicle (one of the oldest record of historical events in Rus’) first time in 10th century. The rapid growth of the medieval city experienced during the reign of Mstislav of Chernigov (The Brave), son of Vladimir the Grate (for unknowing: Vladimir is the prince (‘knjas’’) accepted Christianity in Rus’, very a respected leader, the Holy).
Modern (and strange!) form of the Spassky Cathedral
I talk about him because it is associated with the main attraction of Chernigov - tumble of Transfiguration (Spassky) which was built in 1030-s by order of Mstislav in honor of the victory over the Poles. To be precise construction only began in 1030, but was not finished pr life of the customer - poor Mstislav died without waiting for completion, he was killed in an accident while hunting in 1036. Construction was ‘frozen’ and was continued only at the middle of 11th century. Mstislav buried in an unfinished cathedral, where the height of the walls was about 4 meters. I can’t imagine it - the Prince's coffin was falling rain and snow, were scattered around the building materials… I think it's a little disrespectful towards the deceased!
Cathedral of Saints Boris and Gleb
After the council to build, it was used as the tomb of Chernigov princes and their families.
Now this ancient cathedral looks rather strange. It survived relatively well, but as multiple reinforced and rebuilt what is now his appearance is very different from the original.
Primary style of the cathedral has the typical features of the ancient Russian church architecture: a cubic volume, eight pillars, five-domed, three apses, a minimum of decoration, strict ascetic lines. Now it is impossible mix of styles that does not have a general idea. But you can see the authentic walls whish were folded by hands of the ancient builders in the 11th century. It’s great! Moreover, in the literal sense - we can see on the walls of the special ‘window’ exposed brickwork. This is a plinfy - a special kind of rough brick laying, technique which has been used in the Byzantine Empire.
Saints Boris and Gleb (Russian icon)
Indeed, the tradition of Russian architecture were adopted from the Byzantines, as well as religion. In contrast white stone churches of Vladimir, Tver, Galicia, and Moscow principalities, medieval churches in Chernigov were built of brick or plinfy, but this is a topic for a separate story. Perhaps it erected by the same masters who build St. Sophia Cathedral in Kiev. Now the temple of acting. Inside it is decorated with paintings of 18-19 centuries, quite good.
Anthropo-zoomorphic stone carving
Another Chernigov’s church, very interesting too - the Cathedral of Saints Boris and Gleb, which located very close to the Spassky Cathedral. It was built later, in 1120-s.
Boris and Gleb were loved and revered in Rus’, many temples were dedicated to them.
These two brothers-princes were treacherously murdered by elder brother Svyatopolk because of a power struggle. They are the symbol of an innocent victim and humility.
This cathedral was built as a tomb too, as evidenced by the niches in the walls for sarcophagi.
The Exposition of the museum in the Cathedral of Boris and Gleb (last - The Royal doors of the cathedral (silver, gilt)
This temple also has the typical features of ancient Russian architecture: it's cross-domed, single-headed, six- pillars, three apses. The most interesting thing in this church (apart from his age) is a rare anthropo-zoomorphic stone inlay. Similar patterns are found only in the territory of Vladimir-Suzdal principality and still a couple of places, they were used in a very short period of time in the post-Mongol period (after 1238) they were banned. Such ornaments as early Gothic elements, most likely borrowed from Western architects.
View from second floor
The capitals of half-columns of the temple were decorated with wonderful zoomorphic stone carvings. Now the originals can be seen inside - there is now a museum, from the outside you can see a copy of the capitals.
The frescoes of the cathedral were not preserved, only the windows on the slopes you can see the shadow of floral ornament.
Remnants of an authentic painting
If you are lucky enough to visit the museum Boris and Gleb Cathedral necessarily rise to the second floor (‘the choirs’) - it offers a good view, we can consider all the details of the internal situation of the church.
There are a couple of interesting, but much more recent buildings in Detinets: the Regimental Office building (or house Lizogub) and the College. I like it but I was really interested in the more ancient buildings.
College building (17th century)
To see other attractions, we have to move to another location - to the Trinity-Ilyinsky (St. Elias) Monastery. Here, the entrance to the Anthony’s caves, is one more 12th-century church - St. Elias. Originally the church was used as a baptistery. This church is interesting for its shape - three alternating different shapes. This is a unique temple of its kind in Ukraine.
Elias Church (12th century)
The caves - the underground part of the monastery. St. Anthony Pechersky (‘of the Caves’) dug the first cave. He also founded a famous Kiev-Pechersk Lavra.
Another ancient cathedral of the 12th century in the territory of another monastery - Yeletsky. This is Cathedral of the Assumption. It was many times rebuilt over the years of its existence, and it’s impossible to predict the features of an ancient temple.
Elias Church (reconstruction)
The word "Yeletsky" comes from the "Yel'" - spruce. According to legend, the miraculous icon was found on spruce in the forest, then stored for a long time in the monastery. At this point, and had founded a monastery.
Cathedral of the Assumption in Yeletsky monastery
This monastery - one of the older in the Ukraine, it was founded in the 11th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption in Yeletsky monastery (reconstruction)
The last church - my favorite. It’s Pyatnitskaya church (late 12th- early 13th centuries). In its history, it often damaged and recreated.
Pyatnitskaya church (12th Century)
The heaviest damages were received during the battles with the Germans in 1941, however, the church rebuilt in the 1950s to the drawings and photographs. Now we can admire its original appearance. Unfortunately the internal decor irretrievably lost.
Pyatnitskaya church on the 1944 photo
In the construction of the church were used bricks without plaster. Masters was able to demonstrate the possibility of shaping and plastic of masonry. Thank restorers who have preserved for us this elegant church.
Ground of the Trinity-St Elias Monastery
If you have the opportunity to visit Chernihiv, do not miss it! This is a very nice clean town. Here you can walk in the park in Detinets, admire young brides, as it is a popular place for wedding photo shoots.
I think you'll like Chernigov, as it liked me and liked my mother. You can see more pictures and information in Russian in my Russian-language journal. here and here.