More drafting thoughts

Dec 22, 2009 17:24

I also noticed on closer inspection that there is more room in the bust because of the busk. The busk follows smoothly from the underbust to the apex and proceeds on that line making a larger pocket above the apexes. I didn't use a busk in the mock up, so I had no idea that this stabilization would make the front most pocket larger, necessitating a tighter lacing gap to bring the apexes into the cups.
The way I see it I could make changes to accommodate the pocket created by the busk. This is the part where I'd remove from the side bust seam a bit less than the difference between the current and desired lacing gap.

Or I could shorten the busk to the apex. This will pose it's own challenges as there would be less fabric between/ above the apexes for support probably necessitating more bones. No easy way out.

Also, can you see that the waistline is too low on the front? I think this is the source of some client discomfort, and that the bust line needs to be brought closer to the waistline at the front. It will make it balance on her figure better I think, both in terms of style (the back will seem more in balance for height) and comfort because that smallest point on her is not actually horizontal on her figure. Then I could bring down the apex seams and cup them under the abdomen without overly lengthening the overall look of the corset.

Seeing the waistline issue as well as the mock up with no busk was pretty illuminating. It can't creep up any higher to her natural waistline because it's anchored so closely at the underbust. This puts pressure on the lowest rib, and makes the overall look tipped upwards in front.

fail!, underwear, corsets, drafting, 2010weding

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