This is about Ashland the place -- not the plays. It was very relaxing. Ashland reminded me strongly of Martha's Vineyard, or Cannon Beach. Other places that are all about people with money vacationing. Which means that everything is very nice. Our shuttle driver (we flew from Seattle to Medford, thanks, Alaska Air. I finally got to use up some of my miles, Yay!) told us that Ashland is the second most expensive city in Oregon after Lake Oswego. I believe it.
We stayed at
Bards Inn Best Western, where a large mural of Shakespeare greeted us. You can't escape His Presence in Ashland. There were a few paltry "Go Cougars" signs. Really, it's all about the Festival. Marlowe must be gnashing his teeth. Damn that bill in Deptford!
The great thing about our location was that it was easy walking distance of downtown. And just a couple of blocks from where
janetl and Ron stay,
The Ashland Creek Inn. An elegant and fantastical place, as this wonderful photo of the outside shows. I loved this location, where a creek runs right past the door.
Janet was kind enough to take me shopping, which I desperately needed as I've shrunk out of all my clothes. This week has been a grand time of receiving boxes of new clothes for fall and winter. Kind of like Christmas and birthday rolled together. The shops along Main St. are very nice, some of them a little beyond what I'd wear to work, but fun to look through nonetheless.
And there were book stores. In my ongoing work to keep publishing afloat, I bought books at
Bloomsbury Books, which I have to say is one of the finest independents I've been to a long time. Simply a fabulous little bookstore. I would move in there in a heart beat if I lived nearby. I strongly encourage you to check out their website. It's all an independent should be. I can't recall when I last fell so in love with a bookstore. And the proprietor, in a very natty hat, was smart and knowledgeable about his merchandise.
The second hand bookstore, where I also bought books, was extensive. My other joyous find of the week was Shakespeare Books & Antiques. This was a used bookstores of a higher caliber. Fine quality used books, well loved by the owner, as well as some lovely antiques knowledgeably selected. They had a section of shelves of "Banned Books which was a particular delight for me because I found I book I worked on ages ago in my glorious misspent youth.
Yes, there on the top shelf. I worked on Fanny Hill! A banned book! My name is inside it, I get credit along with Herb Lubalin, who was the Art Director, and Ralph Ginzburg, the publisher. I was thrilled to see it and chatted with the owner about the making of the book. It was loads of fun.
I also bought books there that are pretty fabulous. Essays by DH Lawrence and a couple of histories.
In the middle of town, there used to be a fountain where you could drink Lithia water, from the river. It's called that because the water contains lithium salts. Yes, that lithium. Orginally, the lithium springs were a health spa where folks came to take the waters. You can now take the waters from a series of bubblers in the same location. They're free. It's perfectly fine, and there are supposed to be health benefits. Drink lithia water and you will feel happier.
Of course, it tastes like rotten eggs. No really, absolutely disgusting. We tried it. Utterly foul. We ran down the street in search of coffee immediately after. Screw happiness.
But Lithia Park is beautiful. Lush, green, and shady. Which was great because every day was over 90 and sunny. We took a long morning walk and saw waterfalls, the river (creek), fountains, and the big four-footed squirrel called deer.
Then we walked back to town and paused to let three deer pass us by. We understood why the rich folk had 12 foot decorative fences around their houses, and why there were no flowers in the park. Good eatin', deer.
Ashland, in its storied past, had folks who built astonishing houses as these next photos from a separate walk attest. Simply a glorious example of lush, Victorian architecture. Once, I yearned to own one of these. Having owned such a house, I now realize they own your, and am now content to merely take pictures and walk on.
We grew to love the
Dragonfly cafe where I totally blew my carbs for at least one day. Everything on the menu looked so fantastic!
And every day looked like this.
Oh yeah, and there was this theater thing too. Yeah, we did that as well.
We ended up pretty mellow by the end of our stay. Maybe there is something in that lithia water...