1840's Gown and Underthings Part 2
The continuation of my last post, this time about the dress, its decoration and accessories.
Original Sketch:
Dress:
If you want to see more photos: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/67607.html and http://izodiea.livejournal.com/65562.html
This dress was the result of an epic ebay win. I scored 7 yards (at $14 a yard) of 100% Silk Lampas from an antiques seller. This exact fabric normally goes for $40 a yard : http://www.ebay.com/itm/190570479485?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 The skirt is flat-lined with some bargain weight silk organza, and the boned bodice is lined in twill and linen. Center back lacing is hand-made eyelets. The bones on the inside are spiral, and the casings are catch-stitched on the major seams.
The bodice pattern was draped (A class requirement) on my school mannequin which was padded out and wearing my corset. I used some photo references and my text book (Period Costume for Stage and Screen) as a guide for seam placement. Next we made Muslin toiles and fit each other in pairs during class, and then in final fabric as well. Having a fitting buddy is amazing!!! All the credit for the fit goes to my friend Lindsey, you can see her dress (The Raspberry Victorian) here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/67607.html#cutid1 When I draped my bodice on the manniquin, we didn't have any arms handy. This made the off the shoulder part a bit tricky so I just draped further up the shoulder seam. During the fitting we pinned in some fabric and then I checked that against a flat-pattern method for dropped shoulders.
The skirt was cut and sewn as 3 rectangles, and hemmed along the straight grain. After that I put it on my dress form+crinoline and pleated it so it was level to the floor. The hem is backed with wiggan (a stiff bias material) and catch-stitched to the organza flat lining. The skirt has a center back plaquet that snaps closed.
The sleeves are straight out of Period Costume for Stage and Screen, with a little organza ruffle added to the inside for a bit of pouf.
The decoration at the point of the bodice was made by overlapping and handsewing together sections of piping:
Fitting:
Bows+Fringe:
My original post on making the fringe+piping: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/61322.html
The bows are made from interfaced silk taffeta from http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/. The fringe is made from DMC cotton embroidery thread hand knotted in three rows like the photo above. The piping I made myself from the taffeta, I ended up making/using 26 yards for the whole dress! The top two bows are slightly smaller; even though it is not extremely noticeable, before when they were full sized it looked clunky.
Still in progress:
I have been working on making detachable long sleeves (I didn't have enough fabric to make a separate day bodice) and a matching headdress/day cap using this pattern: http://butterick.mccall.com/b5663-products-14513.php?page_id=385 The sleeves still need hooks+ thread eyes to attach (Pinned in the photo) eyelets and lacing to the wrist. The headdress needed to have the fringe knotted, and I want to do some more decoration on the back, I did some simple embroidery and it just looks lost right now. One I finish both of these I want to start making some kind of fichu-thing and a little bag/reticule from the dress scraps since the dress doesn't have pockets.
To see all of the undergarments please see part 1: http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/553291.html
My Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action Any comments and questions here or there are greatly appreciated :)
Original Sketch:
Dress:
If you want to see more photos: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/67607.html and http://izodiea.livejournal.com/65562.html
This dress was the result of an epic ebay win. I scored 7 yards (at $14 a yard) of 100% Silk Lampas from an antiques seller. This exact fabric normally goes for $40 a yard : http://www.ebay.com/itm/190570479485?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 The skirt is flat-lined with some bargain weight silk organza, and the boned bodice is lined in twill and linen. Center back lacing is hand-made eyelets. The bones on the inside are spiral, and the casings are catch-stitched on the major seams.
The bodice pattern was draped (A class requirement) on my school mannequin which was padded out and wearing my corset. I used some photo references and my text book (Period Costume for Stage and Screen) as a guide for seam placement. Next we made Muslin toiles and fit each other in pairs during class, and then in final fabric as well. Having a fitting buddy is amazing!!! All the credit for the fit goes to my friend Lindsey, you can see her dress (The Raspberry Victorian) here: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/67607.html#cutid1 When I draped my bodice on the manniquin, we didn't have any arms handy. This made the off the shoulder part a bit tricky so I just draped further up the shoulder seam. During the fitting we pinned in some fabric and then I checked that against a flat-pattern method for dropped shoulders.
The skirt was cut and sewn as 3 rectangles, and hemmed along the straight grain. After that I put it on my dress form+crinoline and pleated it so it was level to the floor. The hem is backed with wiggan (a stiff bias material) and catch-stitched to the organza flat lining. The skirt has a center back plaquet that snaps closed.
The sleeves are straight out of Period Costume for Stage and Screen, with a little organza ruffle added to the inside for a bit of pouf.
The decoration at the point of the bodice was made by overlapping and handsewing together sections of piping:
Fitting:
Bows+Fringe:
My original post on making the fringe+piping: http://izodiea.livejournal.com/61322.html
The bows are made from interfaced silk taffeta from http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/. The fringe is made from DMC cotton embroidery thread hand knotted in three rows like the photo above. The piping I made myself from the taffeta, I ended up making/using 26 yards for the whole dress! The top two bows are slightly smaller; even though it is not extremely noticeable, before when they were full sized it looked clunky.
Still in progress:
I have been working on making detachable long sleeves (I didn't have enough fabric to make a separate day bodice) and a matching headdress/day cap using this pattern: http://butterick.mccall.com/b5663-products-14513.php?page_id=385 The sleeves still need hooks+ thread eyes to attach (Pinned in the photo) eyelets and lacing to the wrist. The headdress needed to have the fringe knotted, and I want to do some more decoration on the back, I did some simple embroidery and it just looks lost right now. One I finish both of these I want to start making some kind of fichu-thing and a little bag/reticule from the dress scraps since the dress doesn't have pockets.
To see all of the undergarments please see part 1: http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/553291.html
My Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/Anachronism.In.Action Any comments and questions here or there are greatly appreciated :)