Phyllis Smock Beginning.

Jul 19, 2010 23:43

Finally, I'm starting on the Phyllis kirtle project, beginning with the smock itself.

After closer scrutiny of the image this is based on, it does appear that the smock neckline is square, but at a higher level of square than later styles - it originally appeared to my eye to be curved but only sort-of. The sleeves will also be double my normal length to allow for more hang. Thank goodness it won't have a ruffle, as that thing gets into everything - especially my food.

So far, I've cut out my Margo's Tudor Lady's pattern tissues, and placed them into their respective baggies to keep them organized. Tonight I pulled out the 3 yards of white hanky-weight linen fabric from my stash (bought before Denver Fabrics was sold off to the current owners, so it is nice linen with minimal slubs). I then pulled out the smock pattern set, and pressed the tissues all flat to prep for tracing them. I then found my Tudor Manual hiding in my bedroom (so need to organize my bedroom, ah well) and realized that according to Margo's manual, I would need 2 more yards for my size. Hmmm...

Sorry, Margo, but I know I can do this with the 3 yards I have - I have to, as I don't have any more hanky weight than I do. I know I can, as I've done a smock with only 2 yards, tho it used a different method of patterning. I just have to modify things a little, shorten the smock to somewhere around thigh length instead of knee, retrace the main body pattern so it doesn't have to be on a fold and set it on the cross-grain, instead of the customary warp grain that most garments use (except when they don't). The only question in my mind is if I will have enough for the really long sleeves that I need - so the sleeve pattern will go down last, and I will simply use whatever is left if it isn't twice as long as I need. Worse comes to worse, I will buy more hanky weight and use it for the sleeves. All will be marked in chalk before I cut, so I will know soon.

At least for the pattern itself, all I need to do is trace off my size and not worry about making various calculations and markings. That will save me some time.

The only other thing I need to figure out... blackwork trimming or not? The image doesn't have any visible, but can I really leave it completely blank? I think what I may do is create it without for now, and do blackwork on the facing to be added in when that is done - whenever that might be. And since there is a square cut out from that facing, I may (may) put in some blackwork into that missing square, and use that for a hanky or something - maybe even a cup cover. But I don't think that any of this will be done before the Black Rose Ball, as I've still not finished my other big blackwork project.

Well, back to the sewing room to begin tracings of the pattern before modifying them.

{x-posted to kimikosews}

in progress, undergarments, sca, renaissance, 16thc

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