Flood damaged electrical equipment
So a friend posted this article from the SMH on rescuing flood-damaged computers and other electronics, which is full of contradictory and downright bad advice (I know! In a Murdoch paper?? I'm as surprised as you are!). Let's try and set the record straight, shall we?
Rainwater and most tap water is fairly benign to electronics; nearly everything electronic is water washed at some stage during its manufacture.
Floodwater? Silty, muddy, possibly contaminated floodwater? Not so much.
For anyone reading this, or if you want to pass it on, here is the *right* way to treat wet electronics, from my own experience and collated from the experience of others. I've been recycling and recovering ancient electronics for years, including some found on the street in rain and mud. Some of them even work :)
I won't guarantee that this will save your gadgets, but it will at least give them a fighting chance. If you want a practice run, start with something small and not valuable and work your way up.
0/ AT YOUR OWN RISK. If your device dies, you die, and you burn down your house and black out power to the entire suburb/cause a mini-black hole that swallows the solar system, tough. If you have ANY doubts about the following, leave it alone; throw it out or let a professional look at it. If you are insured, let them sort it out.
Read it all first. Don't skip steps; take one step at a time. Read single steps again in full before trying each one.
DO NOT try to wash anything while it is plugged into the wall or while batteries are installed. DO NOT power up anything that is not fully dry inside and out. DO NOT mess about with electricity with bare feet, or while standing on a wet or concrete floor.
In fact, hell, if you don't already know these procedures, forget I said anything.
1/ Dismantle as fully as possible (for a laptop, this means removing at a minimum the battery and any removable drives, then anything else that is easily accessible, like the hard drive, RAM, keyboard etc. For a phone, the battery, any removable case bits, memory card etc). Take the back cover off the TV, the lid off the DVD player, etc. Keep the screws handy; I usually tape them to the lid, in an envelope or bag. The phone/laptop battery should be a sealed unit, you can wipe that off with a clean damp cloth and leave to dry.
WARNING: TVs and monitors (especially the older CRT (tube) type) both contain high voltage components which can store a nasty shock even when switched off. Take the case off, sure, but DON'T stick your finger or a screwdriver in there. This includes the screen on a laptop. It's likely that if it has been fully underwater the charge has been leaked away, but just to be sure, don't, mkay?
2/ If that's as far as you feel comfortable going, book in an electrician or repair person at this point. Do step 3 and wait for the professionals.
3/ Leave it propped open somewhere to air dry for at least a few days. On top of the fridge at the back, where you get some rising warm air, is not a bad place. In humid weather (like we're having now, eww) you might want to leave it for a week or two. The longer the better. Remove your hard drive and dry separately.
Feeling brave? Proceed.
4/ If there is visible mud, slime or other gunk, you need to get that off there ASAP, before it dries. Even if it's not visible, if the device has been in floodwater (and not just rained on) it is very, very likely to be there inside. Contaminates will get stronger and stronger as the water around them evaporates, and may damage circuit traces and other components.
5/ If you are comfortable dismantling everything down to the component/board level, *and* getting it all back together and working afterwards, do so. If not, goto 6.
If you can find a take apart guide online (ifixit.com for example) use that. Have pen and paper handy and write down where all the little fiddly screws and whatnot go. An egg carton, ice tray, or weekly medicine planner is a good way of keeping screws etc in order.
6/ Wash thoroughly with tap water first (hose, kitchen sink, shower, bath etc) to get any mud or other contaminants off. Do NOT scrub. DO NOT use a high pressure cleaner thing, or steam. You CAN use a dishwasher at this stage - no, really. Clean the dishwasher's filter first, and ALWAYS wash electronics separately from food items. NO detergent, and NO heat cycle. If that's as far as you want to go, goto 2 above.
7/ Better, and especially important if you live in a hard water area which might leave scale or lime deposits: after the tap water, rinse thoroughly with *distilled* water, in a basin and/or with a garden spray bottle. You can get it from a garage or the auto section of a large shop (K-Mart for example) - buy heaps more than you think you'll need, it's cheap, and hey, you can always use it in your car later. A drop or two of dishwashing liquid is ok, no more than that, but rinse that away with a last wash of pure distilled water. Do not scrub - brushing GENTLY with a SOFT toothbrush or paint brush is OK, but using the pressure from your spray bottle is more gentle.
8/ If you can get some (try a chemist or the medical supplies aisle at the supermarket), do a final rinse in denatured alcohol (rubbing alcohol, isopryl, isopropanol) either 100% pure or with distilled water. This will help any last bits of water evaporate without leaving deposits. DO NOT use metho, kerosene, petrol, turps or other solvents. Ethanol is ok if you can get it 100% pure (lab grade). Single malt (not blended) whiskey is an adequate substitute :)
This is more expensive than distilled water, so a spray bottle is probably best here. If you catch the runoff, you can re-use it on another device, although rinsing the second device once more with pure is probably advisable.
9/ If you like, give it a good going over with a hair dryer or fan heater on LOW heat. Don't rely on this to get all the water out though - water has a nasty way of hiding under and even IN components, so leave to airdry as above.
10/ Once everything is *thoroughly* dry (I'm not joking about leaving it for several days), reassemble. Then take it apart again to put the %(*&*(&#$%) leftover screws back in ^_^
11/ Start with things that are powered from low voltage plugpacks or batteries - laptops for example. Keep the hard drive out - a voltage surge in the wrong place could kill your data. Wear shoes with rubber or leather soles, don't stand on a wet floor or concrete.
12/ Try to power it up from the battery first. If that works ok, w00t.
13/ Now try the power supply - which, unless it is completely sealed and just needed wiping and drying, you did de-case, wash and dry as above, separately, and re-assemble, right? Plug the PS into the wall, but NOT the device, and switch on. If nothing axploeads and the appropriate lights come on, w00t. If you have a multimeter, check the voltages. Then switch it off, and try it with the device. If it fails, time for a new power supply.
13/ Unless you want to save your hard drive for a professional data recovery tech to look at it (which is safer, and might be covered by your insurance), time to try that. You did wash and dry that too, right?
Switch the computer off, insert the hard drive, try again.
14/ Mains powered devices; desktop computers, TVs, etc. Only for the brave.
If you can, plug the device into an extension cord or powerboard BEFORE plugging the cord into the mains. One with a surge guard preferably, or best of all, an RCD (residual current device - this cuts the power in milliseconds if there are any shorts, including a short through you. You can get them for about $40 and up.)
Place the device well away from flammables - this includes you and other animals, paper, curtains, books, wooden desks etc. Switch on at the device first, THEN switch on the power at the wall or powerboard. Stay by the switch - if ANYTHING weird happens, switch off straight away AND pull the plug. Things to watch out for: strange noises, humming, strange smells, glowing, other unexpected lights, sparks, smoke, fire. DO NOT approach the device until it has been tested and running for a few minutes. If it has a standby power mode, now is the time to try switching it fully on, by remote if you have it. Again, if there is any weirdness, switch it off and unplug it.
15/ If you are in doubt about any mains-powered appliances and don't have access to proper test equipment, ALWAYS tap it with the BACK of your hand first. If the case is live, your muscles will jerk AWAY from the device. If you touch it with the palm, fingers or front of your hand, the spasm may cause you to grip the device hard. This is a good way to damage your heart or brain, or die.
If you don't get zapped at the first rap of the knuckles, rap it again, then touch, then leave your hand resting against it (still the back of your hand). If there are no zaps still, it is PROBABLY safe it handle. Might want to check different parts of the case just to be sure.
This is a public post; link at will, but I would prefer it if you don't cut and paste or repost it to avoid mutations. Technical readers: your feedback is welcome; suggestions may be edited in.
Good luck. Safety first kids; don't die, kay? If in doubt, let a pro deal with it.
Rainwater and most tap water is fairly benign to electronics; nearly everything electronic is water washed at some stage during its manufacture.
Floodwater? Silty, muddy, possibly contaminated floodwater? Not so much.
For anyone reading this, or if you want to pass it on, here is the *right* way to treat wet electronics, from my own experience and collated from the experience of others. I've been recycling and recovering ancient electronics for years, including some found on the street in rain and mud. Some of them even work :)
I won't guarantee that this will save your gadgets, but it will at least give them a fighting chance. If you want a practice run, start with something small and not valuable and work your way up.
0/ AT YOUR OWN RISK. If your device dies, you die, and you burn down your house and black out power to the entire suburb/cause a mini-black hole that swallows the solar system, tough. If you have ANY doubts about the following, leave it alone; throw it out or let a professional look at it. If you are insured, let them sort it out.
Read it all first. Don't skip steps; take one step at a time. Read single steps again in full before trying each one.
DO NOT try to wash anything while it is plugged into the wall or while batteries are installed. DO NOT power up anything that is not fully dry inside and out. DO NOT mess about with electricity with bare feet, or while standing on a wet or concrete floor.
In fact, hell, if you don't already know these procedures, forget I said anything.
1/ Dismantle as fully as possible (for a laptop, this means removing at a minimum the battery and any removable drives, then anything else that is easily accessible, like the hard drive, RAM, keyboard etc. For a phone, the battery, any removable case bits, memory card etc). Take the back cover off the TV, the lid off the DVD player, etc. Keep the screws handy; I usually tape them to the lid, in an envelope or bag. The phone/laptop battery should be a sealed unit, you can wipe that off with a clean damp cloth and leave to dry.
WARNING: TVs and monitors (especially the older CRT (tube) type) both contain high voltage components which can store a nasty shock even when switched off. Take the case off, sure, but DON'T stick your finger or a screwdriver in there. This includes the screen on a laptop. It's likely that if it has been fully underwater the charge has been leaked away, but just to be sure, don't, mkay?
2/ If that's as far as you feel comfortable going, book in an electrician or repair person at this point. Do step 3 and wait for the professionals.
3/ Leave it propped open somewhere to air dry for at least a few days. On top of the fridge at the back, where you get some rising warm air, is not a bad place. In humid weather (like we're having now, eww) you might want to leave it for a week or two. The longer the better. Remove your hard drive and dry separately.
Feeling brave? Proceed.
4/ If there is visible mud, slime or other gunk, you need to get that off there ASAP, before it dries. Even if it's not visible, if the device has been in floodwater (and not just rained on) it is very, very likely to be there inside. Contaminates will get stronger and stronger as the water around them evaporates, and may damage circuit traces and other components.
5/ If you are comfortable dismantling everything down to the component/board level, *and* getting it all back together and working afterwards, do so. If not, goto 6.
If you can find a take apart guide online (ifixit.com for example) use that. Have pen and paper handy and write down where all the little fiddly screws and whatnot go. An egg carton, ice tray, or weekly medicine planner is a good way of keeping screws etc in order.
6/ Wash thoroughly with tap water first (hose, kitchen sink, shower, bath etc) to get any mud or other contaminants off. Do NOT scrub. DO NOT use a high pressure cleaner thing, or steam. You CAN use a dishwasher at this stage - no, really. Clean the dishwasher's filter first, and ALWAYS wash electronics separately from food items. NO detergent, and NO heat cycle. If that's as far as you want to go, goto 2 above.
7/ Better, and especially important if you live in a hard water area which might leave scale or lime deposits: after the tap water, rinse thoroughly with *distilled* water, in a basin and/or with a garden spray bottle. You can get it from a garage or the auto section of a large shop (K-Mart for example) - buy heaps more than you think you'll need, it's cheap, and hey, you can always use it in your car later. A drop or two of dishwashing liquid is ok, no more than that, but rinse that away with a last wash of pure distilled water. Do not scrub - brushing GENTLY with a SOFT toothbrush or paint brush is OK, but using the pressure from your spray bottle is more gentle.
8/ If you can get some (try a chemist or the medical supplies aisle at the supermarket), do a final rinse in denatured alcohol (rubbing alcohol, isopryl, isopropanol) either 100% pure or with distilled water. This will help any last bits of water evaporate without leaving deposits. DO NOT use metho, kerosene, petrol, turps or other solvents. Ethanol is ok if you can get it 100% pure (lab grade). Single malt (not blended) whiskey is an adequate substitute :)
This is more expensive than distilled water, so a spray bottle is probably best here. If you catch the runoff, you can re-use it on another device, although rinsing the second device once more with pure is probably advisable.
9/ If you like, give it a good going over with a hair dryer or fan heater on LOW heat. Don't rely on this to get all the water out though - water has a nasty way of hiding under and even IN components, so leave to airdry as above.
10/ Once everything is *thoroughly* dry (I'm not joking about leaving it for several days), reassemble. Then take it apart again to put the %(*&*(&#$%) leftover screws back in ^_^
11/ Start with things that are powered from low voltage plugpacks or batteries - laptops for example. Keep the hard drive out - a voltage surge in the wrong place could kill your data. Wear shoes with rubber or leather soles, don't stand on a wet floor or concrete.
12/ Try to power it up from the battery first. If that works ok, w00t.
13/ Now try the power supply - which, unless it is completely sealed and just needed wiping and drying, you did de-case, wash and dry as above, separately, and re-assemble, right? Plug the PS into the wall, but NOT the device, and switch on. If nothing axploeads and the appropriate lights come on, w00t. If you have a multimeter, check the voltages. Then switch it off, and try it with the device. If it fails, time for a new power supply.
13/ Unless you want to save your hard drive for a professional data recovery tech to look at it (which is safer, and might be covered by your insurance), time to try that. You did wash and dry that too, right?
Switch the computer off, insert the hard drive, try again.
14/ Mains powered devices; desktop computers, TVs, etc. Only for the brave.
If you can, plug the device into an extension cord or powerboard BEFORE plugging the cord into the mains. One with a surge guard preferably, or best of all, an RCD (residual current device - this cuts the power in milliseconds if there are any shorts, including a short through you. You can get them for about $40 and up.)
Place the device well away from flammables - this includes you and other animals, paper, curtains, books, wooden desks etc. Switch on at the device first, THEN switch on the power at the wall or powerboard. Stay by the switch - if ANYTHING weird happens, switch off straight away AND pull the plug. Things to watch out for: strange noises, humming, strange smells, glowing, other unexpected lights, sparks, smoke, fire. DO NOT approach the device until it has been tested and running for a few minutes. If it has a standby power mode, now is the time to try switching it fully on, by remote if you have it. Again, if there is any weirdness, switch it off and unplug it.
15/ If you are in doubt about any mains-powered appliances and don't have access to proper test equipment, ALWAYS tap it with the BACK of your hand first. If the case is live, your muscles will jerk AWAY from the device. If you touch it with the palm, fingers or front of your hand, the spasm may cause you to grip the device hard. This is a good way to damage your heart or brain, or die.
If you don't get zapped at the first rap of the knuckles, rap it again, then touch, then leave your hand resting against it (still the back of your hand). If there are no zaps still, it is PROBABLY safe it handle. Might want to check different parts of the case just to be sure.
This is a public post; link at will, but I would prefer it if you don't cut and paste or repost it to avoid mutations. Technical readers: your feedback is welcome; suggestions may be edited in.
Good luck. Safety first kids; don't die, kay? If in doubt, let a pro deal with it.