car project
67,400 miles on my baby. Time for lots of preventative maintenance and other stuff so that I can eventually drive her into the ground:
*=done
*Change/flush/bleed brake fluid
-level in reservoir is good
-find colored stuff- ATE Super Blue $12/L turnermotorsport.com
-Bleeder screw/valve was rusted shut on one because rubber cap had come off. Replaced with latex tubing plugged at one end.
-Oxygen tubing with adapter end trimmed fit bleed valve perfectly.
-8mm box wrench
*Lube locks
-Dry graphite lube
*Change spark plugs: gap: 2.3-liter engine 1.25―1.35 mm (0.049―0.053 in)
-Ended up using autolite xp iridium gapped to .050 (+/-.001 I think)
-Gapped autolite double platinum plugs at autozone (farmington) at counter while employee watched. CAN'T GAP PLAT PLUGS, ruins plating. Second autozone (walled lake) exchanged for free because it was their (farmington's) fault I most likely ruined those plugs.
*Change MTX fluid (page J3 of workshop manual)
-used Redline MT-90 $10/qt turnermotorsport.com
-Make sure the car is level and fill it until it comes out the fill plug, then done. http://web.archive.org/web/20071107122425/www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=45&Itemid=49
-maybe royal purple 75W90 @ $16/qt
-Have funnel with flex tube
-Relatively easy, like an oil change. Had to push the funnel with tube up into engine bay, then use another funnel from the top into that funnel. Filled very very slowly.
*new cabin air filter
-None at any stores, found fram w/baking soda similar size at meijer. Cut down and taped sides together to resize.
*new engine air filter
-used STP SA8922
-manual says old is reusable after cleaning
*Lube door/trunk hinges
-lithium door lube
*inspect (flush+replace?) engine coolant level
-LOW needs more
-use flush cleaner
-Page 8-15 of owners manual, 7.5 qts of 50/50
*clean MAF/IAT sensor
-electronics spray cleaner from autozone
*Techron treatment
*take out LCD/upper compartment to fix LCD
-turns out wire harness is ok. Whenever circuit board flexed/twisted by hand, the dropping pixels would come back. Ended up putting rubber spacers at corners to force that same flex when assembled back into plastic housing. Seems to be working. Stopped working. LCD itself probably needs to be replaced.
-new LCD = $330 :-(
airbox mod
*HDR lip
-tape and screws + blacken visible white edge
-looks bad ass yet subtle, and only $20
Specs are at end of owners manual.
=================
Page B-4
Drive belt tensioner spring making contact with the internal tensioner cup.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Replace the Drive Belt Auto Tensioner with a modifed part according to the Workshop Manual (Section 01-10A DRIVE BELT AUTO TENSIONER INSPECTION [L3] ).
==================
oil filters:
Purolator Info-
PL20195/L20195 = oversized
PL10241/L10241 = stock
mazda LF10 14 302
motorcraft FL-910
fram TG3614 (**used and worked**)
- Stock LF10-14-302
- Pureone 10241 (3.5"), 20195 (4.75")
- Mobil 1 M1-102 (3.5"), M1-205 (4.75")
- Bosch 3330 (3.5"), 3421 (4.75")
- Amsoil LF503 (size=?)
- Pureone P20064 (size=?)
- Motocraft FL-910 (size= ?)
Motorcraft FL910 filter identical in every way, shape and form to the Mazda LF10-14-302.
===============
get flip key fob body, empty
-mount guts of old remote into flip body, will need to make/convert new cover for flip body
-replacement remote place on ebay says that if it didn't come with a flipkey originally, I can't get one
AuxMod
VentureShield for future ref
*orange high temp caliper spray paint
-Ended up using high-temp engine block paint on the covers
*Touchup paint chips
-got paint from dealer
-dab on paint, wipe/smear with gloved finger, wipe over with mineral spirits, go over with polishing compound?Won't work with regular touchup paint.
-paint-chip-repair.com kit. Won't need it yet, but keep in mind for future.
*=done
*Change/flush/bleed brake fluid
-level in reservoir is good
-find colored stuff- ATE Super Blue $12/L turnermotorsport.com
-Bleeder screw/valve was rusted shut on one because rubber cap had come off. Replaced with latex tubing plugged at one end.
-Oxygen tubing with adapter end trimmed fit bleed valve perfectly.
-8mm box wrench
*Lube locks
-Dry graphite lube
*Change spark plugs: gap: 2.3-liter engine 1.25―1.35 mm (0.049―0.053 in)
-Ended up using autolite xp iridium gapped to .050 (+/-.001 I think)
-Gapped autolite double platinum plugs at autozone (farmington) at counter while employee watched. CAN'T GAP PLAT PLUGS, ruins plating. Second autozone (walled lake) exchanged for free because it was their (farmington's) fault I most likely ruined those plugs.
*Change MTX fluid (page J3 of workshop manual)
-used Redline MT-90 $10/qt turnermotorsport.com
-Make sure the car is level and fill it until it comes out the fill plug, then done. http://web.archive.org/web/20071107122425/www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=45&Itemid=49
-maybe royal purple 75W90 @ $16/qt
-Have funnel with flex tube
-Relatively easy, like an oil change. Had to push the funnel with tube up into engine bay, then use another funnel from the top into that funnel. Filled very very slowly.
*new cabin air filter
-None at any stores, found fram w/baking soda similar size at meijer. Cut down and taped sides together to resize.
*new engine air filter
-used STP SA8922
-manual says old is reusable after cleaning
*Lube door/trunk hinges
-lithium door lube
*inspect (flush+replace?) engine coolant level
-LOW needs more
-use flush cleaner
-Page 8-15 of owners manual, 7.5 qts of 50/50
*clean MAF/IAT sensor
-electronics spray cleaner from autozone
*Techron treatment
*take out LCD/upper compartment to fix LCD
-turns out wire harness is ok. Whenever circuit board flexed/twisted by hand, the dropping pixels would come back. Ended up putting rubber spacers at corners to force that same flex when assembled back into plastic housing. Seems to be working. Stopped working. LCD itself probably needs to be replaced.
-new LCD = $330 :-(
airbox mod
*HDR lip
-tape and screws + blacken visible white edge
-looks bad ass yet subtle, and only $20
Specs are at end of owners manual.
=================
Page B-4
Drive belt tensioner spring making contact with the internal tensioner cup.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Replace the Drive Belt Auto Tensioner with a modifed part according to the Workshop Manual (Section 01-10A DRIVE BELT AUTO TENSIONER INSPECTION [L3] ).
==================
oil filters:
Purolator Info-
PL20195/L20195 = oversized
PL10241/L10241 = stock
mazda LF10 14 302
motorcraft FL-910
fram TG3614 (**used and worked**)
- Stock LF10-14-302
- Pureone 10241 (3.5"), 20195 (4.75")
- Mobil 1 M1-102 (3.5"), M1-205 (4.75")
- Bosch 3330 (3.5"), 3421 (4.75")
- Amsoil LF503 (size=?)
- Pureone P20064 (size=?)
- Motocraft FL-910 (size= ?)
Motorcraft FL910 filter identical in every way, shape and form to the Mazda LF10-14-302.
===============
get flip key fob body, empty
-mount guts of old remote into flip body, will need to make/convert new cover for flip body
-replacement remote place on ebay says that if it didn't come with a flipkey originally, I can't get one
AuxMod
VentureShield for future ref
*orange high temp caliper spray paint
-Ended up using high-temp engine block paint on the covers
*Touchup paint chips
-got paint from dealer
-dab on paint, wipe/smear with gloved finger, wipe over with mineral spirits, go over with polishing compound?Won't work with regular touchup paint.
-paint-chip-repair.com kit. Won't need it yet, but keep in mind for future.