update of FL...

[diedaily]

So, there is this huge storm that has been hitting us in FL. Yesterday and part of last night cosisted of me and the boys surfing in 10-12 foot waves. Unbelievable. It took us like 10-15 minutes each time to make it back out to the next break. There was one particular wave that I got up on and I was seriously 11 feet in the air on top of the water and then just nose dove straight down, smacked the water, the board nailed me in the forehead (yes, I have a huge bump now), I went barrel-rolling under the water like 6 or 7 times for at least 35 seconds or so and then the middle fin on my board broke and cut me across the back of my calf. Now, if you don't call that INTENSE and/or EXTREME....you can eat one!!!!
...Xalways stay trueX...
russ