185 Český Krumlov, the little Prague
The little streets of medieval Český Krumlov unfold like a long-forgotten folktale, deriving its chapters from the centuries-old houses and its picturesque little Vltava [River]. A small town in Czech Republic, Český Krumlov bears all the historical charm of the capital Prague, without losing its soul to the devil of tourist commercialisation. Today we step into this pocket-sized wonder through the Budějovice Gate (above), the only original town gate still standing from medieval times.
Much of the town is a visual feast in the sgraffito style, a style in which scratching on coats of paint creates illusive decor for the house facade. Most fascinating of all is the corner house on Kájovská No. 54, where the technique was well employed in creating trompe-l'oeil bricks, statues, niches, and columns from the wall.
On the Western front of the house, the optical illusion continues - painted figures stare out of painted windows, surrounded by two-dimensional bricks that look uncannily real. Here's fantasy juxtaposed with the real; a fake window beside a working one on the right... and now don't wave at that lady please; she would never respond because she isn't real.
That unsmiling lady is the past owner's wife, and if you look around at other "windows" you would see the owner himself and also this bear. The bear is the joke of the painter, whether in mockery or lighthearted jest you decide... Either way, the bear is significant; it was and still is the royal symbol of Český Krumlov.
The royal castle of Český Krumlov stands on top of a hill. It is simply called "Krumlov Castle". In the corridor leading from the IInd to the IIIrd Courtyards, a magnificent view awaits you. The tall spire of the St. Vitus Church may be seen watching over the historical center of Český Krumlov.
Same view, different perspective: at the peripheral walls of the Vth Courtyard.
But perhaps best of all is this: the Cloak Bridge, beautifully silhouetted against the blue sky, connecting the IVth and Vth courtyards of Krumlov castle. It is a remarkable piece of work, comprising three storeys of giant arches. Add to this the chilling tale of suicides on the bridge... (the bridge is in fact locally called the "Suicide Bridge") and you have a landmark that is as beautiful as it is mysterious.
Český Krumlov, this quiet peaceful haven, is a genuine delight to get lost in. It may never have the international acclaim of Prague, but it is by far a worthier destination to pay a visit.