Place of the moon, city of weavers: Chanderi
So after the "Old Chanderi" debacle,
http://www.livejournal.com/users/byronicman/393605.html
my travel mates konked out back at the hotel, and I went exploring in town. Now I have always been intrigued by textiles. My mother has a whole chest full of heirloom Japanese kimonos, and as a small child I remember when she used to show them off to visitors who came to the house. Each old kimono had a story. Some were over 100 years old. That's what started me off. Later from a friend, who's social work focus is in Guatemala, I learned that back in the day, every village had their own textile pattern. Because of this (and for other reasons too), in city markets everyone would know exactly where everyone else was from. Then also, once I had a truly textile and fabric obsessive girlfriend (haven't we all?). She taught me all about weaving, looms, and printing and embroidery. And I've learned a lot on my own too. I guess its in my blood for some reason, because I am drawn to the textile friendly world. Mastery of true craftsmanship, in my humble opinion is the highest form of mundane everyday life. People who have at least one daily task mastered, are the cat's meow. And if its something basic to living like clothes making, or baking, that's the ultimate. I respect those qualities to the moon. Perfect food and better clothes, and the company of those who make them, what more could a person ask for?
So when we were picking A-List places for our North India trip last year, at the top I chose Chanderi, because not only did it have a fort, but also was this (supposed) center of weaving and textile production.
(Posing for pictures in the communal extended family courtyard)
Here, I'm going to tell you how I travel. I like to mix it up, meaning for example in India, there are 100s of fort towns, there are 1000s of temples and mosques, there are 10s of 1000s of super cool small villages, there are dozens of big cities, and there are a number of incredible game parks and animal reserves. So in a limited amount of vacation time, I want to first pick A-list, and then B-list (for if I have extra time), and of course leave some room for the unexpected. And in there I want, one or two forts, one or two temples, one or two mosques, one or two cool small villages, one or two cities, and one relaxing animal game preserve (right in the middle of the trip to decompress). It is kind of like a miltary seige mentality, a forced march. I like to go from point A to point B. Its how I like to do it. Even when I go shopping I'm like this, "First we go to Macy's then we head over to Saks, then to this diner for lunch..."
Anyway, Chanderi turned out to be a total highlight. I want to go back there and make a documentary on their weaving. Then again, I don't want to tell anyone about the place. Because I don't want anyone to go there and "ruin" the great isolated atmosphere. The place is a fragile environment, do you know what I mean? So its taken me almost two years to post these pics and talk (only here on my lj) about the place. I belong to India travel forums, and I will NEVER give up Chanderi to them! The place is almost off the map anyway. On most India maps, its a small pinpoint dot with no roads leading to it. In a lot of ways, I hope it stays that way.
(streets only made for walking.. there's a loom in every doorway. Inside the neighborhood @ Chanderi)
Doh... I haven't even started, more on the town next post...
http://www.livejournal.com/users/byronicman/393605.html
my travel mates konked out back at the hotel, and I went exploring in town. Now I have always been intrigued by textiles. My mother has a whole chest full of heirloom Japanese kimonos, and as a small child I remember when she used to show them off to visitors who came to the house. Each old kimono had a story. Some were over 100 years old. That's what started me off. Later from a friend, who's social work focus is in Guatemala, I learned that back in the day, every village had their own textile pattern. Because of this (and for other reasons too), in city markets everyone would know exactly where everyone else was from. Then also, once I had a truly textile and fabric obsessive girlfriend (haven't we all?). She taught me all about weaving, looms, and printing and embroidery. And I've learned a lot on my own too. I guess its in my blood for some reason, because I am drawn to the textile friendly world. Mastery of true craftsmanship, in my humble opinion is the highest form of mundane everyday life. People who have at least one daily task mastered, are the cat's meow. And if its something basic to living like clothes making, or baking, that's the ultimate. I respect those qualities to the moon. Perfect food and better clothes, and the company of those who make them, what more could a person ask for?
So when we were picking A-List places for our North India trip last year, at the top I chose Chanderi, because not only did it have a fort, but also was this (supposed) center of weaving and textile production.
(Posing for pictures in the communal extended family courtyard)
Here, I'm going to tell you how I travel. I like to mix it up, meaning for example in India, there are 100s of fort towns, there are 1000s of temples and mosques, there are 10s of 1000s of super cool small villages, there are dozens of big cities, and there are a number of incredible game parks and animal reserves. So in a limited amount of vacation time, I want to first pick A-list, and then B-list (for if I have extra time), and of course leave some room for the unexpected. And in there I want, one or two forts, one or two temples, one or two mosques, one or two cool small villages, one or two cities, and one relaxing animal game preserve (right in the middle of the trip to decompress). It is kind of like a miltary seige mentality, a forced march. I like to go from point A to point B. Its how I like to do it. Even when I go shopping I'm like this, "First we go to Macy's then we head over to Saks, then to this diner for lunch..."
Anyway, Chanderi turned out to be a total highlight. I want to go back there and make a documentary on their weaving. Then again, I don't want to tell anyone about the place. Because I don't want anyone to go there and "ruin" the great isolated atmosphere. The place is a fragile environment, do you know what I mean? So its taken me almost two years to post these pics and talk (only here on my lj) about the place. I belong to India travel forums, and I will NEVER give up Chanderi to them! The place is almost off the map anyway. On most India maps, its a small pinpoint dot with no roads leading to it. In a lot of ways, I hope it stays that way.
(streets only made for walking.. there's a loom in every doorway. Inside the neighborhood @ Chanderi)
Doh... I haven't even started, more on the town next post...