Beer with me: A later Christmas

Jan 27, 2011 11:54

In what could be a first-time experience for this blog, I was asked by Bram and Jul to write a follow-up to the Beer with me... series that came and went, last year. I have bought some interesting-looking beer with the intention of reviewing them at several points during the last year, but somehow they have all disappeared. HOWEVER, do not discouraged - there is a good stuff coming up. A towering inferno of delicious, really.











Skagen Bryghus Klitnisse
6,8% vol

Skagen is not unlike Fanø. It is the northern tip of Jutland, lies between two seas, and is characterized by sand dunes, wind and sparse vegetation. Like Fanø, Skagen has long been a favoured holiday destination for well-to-do Copenhageners, as well as artists who have been drawn in by the special qualities of the marine light since the 19th century. As I hope you can tell, this beer is pretty to look at: A beautiful dark amber colour, almost chestnut, and a light head. The name ("Dune gnome" or, yes, "Clit gnome") is as confusingly suggestive as you think it is. Tastewise, this is a very well balanced christmas beer. Burnt caramelized barley notes counteract a slight tendency towards fruitiness, and draws the overall impression more towards bitter orange zest than sweet apples. There is a long and fairly strong hoppy finish, and a distinct but not overplayed spicy character. If I had to put a name on the spiciness, I think caraway would be the best I can do. Christmas beers can be pretty overwhelming with sweetness, spice or general EVERYTHINGATONCiness, but this is really not necessarily a beer that should have to be seasonally specific. I can see what makes it a Christmas beer, in the eyes of the brewer, but I would be perfectly happy to have it available all year. I had it with a lunch of coarse rye bread, cheese and cucumber. It was awesome.

There a just few things that are better in beer than a combination of balance and strength of character, and for that reason, I think this beer could put Skagen Bryghus up near Fanø Bryghus in my current list of favourite danish breweries. Interestingly, both breweries seem to produce beer that is distinctly Danish with an American sensibility. Fanø Bryghus' Julebryg this year was a remarkably powerful stout with a roaring train of spicy aromas (more bakery spices than the Klitnisse), definitely leaning a little more towards strength of character than balance, but an excellent special-occasions-beer, nonetheless.

There you have it. It also made me a little tipsy during the reviewing process, so if you can still find it, the Klitnisse comes strongly recommended by the hare.

beer, reviews

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