The lion nexdoor
One of the most interesting things that happened to me in Spain two weeks ago was the city of Léon.
That part of Spain has always fascinated me for a very special reason: Our nation's grandparents came from there.
WARNING: Very long!!! I did add some more pictures to make it bearable...
The first thing a portuguese child learns about the history of this country is: First came the celtic tribes, the "Celtas", the "Iberos". Then they fused and formed our beloved "Lusitanos", with my hero, Viriato, as a leader, the closest thing we had of a Vercingetorix. Then came the bittersweet roman occupation. Do I love them, do I hate them? I can't make up my mind... *sigh* One fine day the roman empire came to an end and the barbarian Visigoths took over the place, but soon the Arabs took over them. The Arabs spread across the whole peninsula, dominating everything except the upper Douro region, the spanish Galicia and Asturias. I guess the Arabs didn't like to climb that much... The organized reconquest started on those mountains.
In 1103, the mighty King Afonso VI of Castilla e Léon decided to reward the brave french knight, Henrique, who had behaved very well in the Reconquest Wars. Afonso gave him a title, some land and a wife, is lovely (cough, cough) daughter Teresa of Léon. The happy couple went to live in the Condado Portucalense, and had a baby who was named after the grandfather and the father, Afonso Henriques.
Now, if there's something every Portuguese child is certain about this period of our history is that Castilla e Léon was the enemy and Teresa was a filthy bitch.
Why? When Afonso Henriques grew up he decided that he was no Count, he was a King! He wanted to detach is small Portugal from the big Castella e Léon. Afonso VI, his grandfather was not easily persuaded and nor was Teresa who wanted to remain castellana at all cost. They both fought him several times but Afonso Henriques won, became our first king and my favorite. Don't you just love him?
So, here we are, small and proud and independent... even though half of the americans still think we are a piece of Spain... HEHEH! What can I say? Why did you think we don't get along with the spanish? ;) Joking, my great grandmother was spanish...
This year something happened. I met a very special spaniard. One that I got along just fine. He inspired me to make peace with nuestros hermanos so I had to go wave the white flag were it all begun. Coincidently, Léon was the birthplace of this delicious former enemy so I ordered him some tips before I go.
Léon. I walked it's streets with the piece of paper with his printed words and followed it religiously. He is a very interesting person and some of our tastes are similar, so I trusted him entirely.
You didn't let me down. I swear Vil, I could hear your voice all the way.
Highlander and I found a small Hostal near the Cathedral, dropped our bags and went sightseeing. His knee was still hurting bad from our former hiking adventures (to be told very soon) so we took our time.
The San Marcos Medieval Hospital for the Santiago pilgrims, now converted in a Parador Nacional, was our first stop. The "plateresco" reliefs were stunning. I had read about this spanish kind of late gothic ornaments, similar to our "manuelino", but I have never saw it as well as in this city. I had to make Highlander step on the grass to take my photo next to it...and then I simply had to make my stupid smile no.34...
Proceeding to the river Bernesga area, we sat under the threes and watched the birds and people canoing. Not much water on the river, though, it needs a strong rain, I remember thinking. Then the most extraordinary thing happened, my fairy powers seemed to have awaken! Heavy clouds gathered in the sky and covered the sun, and by the time we reached Basilica de San Isidoro, rain was pouring down on us!
We took refuge in the amazing cloister after seeing the very ancient codices in the museum. I love monasteries! I'm sure I was a naughty monk in a past life... We stood there for ages (well, the rain didn't want to stop...)
There was time for Highlander to find more about the Roman Legio VII Gemina and decipher all of his precious tomb writings (our king's aunt, Doña Urraca, was there) and for me to marvel at the romanesque frescoes. Amazing representations of Bibilical Scenes, and such colors! And a funny thing, I saw my friend Marco's face in every saint, except the ones with the animal heads! Priceless! He will be thrilled to know that he has a sort of medieval look!
The Cathedral next and it's wonderful glass work. Too bad the sun was absent, I missed it's full splendor...
In the cathedral surroundings I found a Church called Santa Marina! Spain, I'm yours! Thanks! Too bad they were working on it and I couldn't see it.
Back in the hotel for a shower, Highlander and I almost died when we saw on the TV an animated series we used to watch as kids. It was the very medieval "Ruy, el pequeño Cid", about the childhood of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, "El Cid Campeador". I used to love that!!!!! And what a strange coincidence, Rui is Highlander's real name. The city of Léon really treats us well...
But that was nothing compared to what we were about to experience that night. My dear prince sent us to el Barrio Húmedo for dinner. "El Miche" was full and the outside tables were a bit wet from the rain, so we went to "La Mazmorra" instead and ordered "Morcillas", as recommended. Mamma mia!! (wait, that's italian...) Wonderful flavor!! And to think that I don't like portuguese morcelas... For those of you who don't know about these delicacies, I'm talking about cooked blood. Revolting, huh?
After dinner we hang out on the Plaza Mayor, and surrounding streets and then headed for the very mysterious and cozy "El cafetin", for a caipirinha. We were a bit confused because we weren't sure if this was the right place to be, because my friend have also called it "Quatro gatos" and we saw no cat's around. So my Campeador, who speaks spanish like El Cid, went to the bartender and told him our doubts. And yes, "El cafetin" was once called "Quatro gatos"! We stayed there the whole night. The music was fine, the caipirinhas were kind of soft but the conversation was great. I think Highlander may have asked me to marry him but I'm trying not to think about that right now... He is too sweet!! I adore him!
In conclusion. making friends on the internet is very useful and you should all visit Léon (oh, yes, I was paid from the Spanish Government to say this :P)
Thank you, Vil, I love you.
That part of Spain has always fascinated me for a very special reason: Our nation's grandparents came from there.
WARNING: Very long!!! I did add some more pictures to make it bearable...
The first thing a portuguese child learns about the history of this country is: First came the celtic tribes, the "Celtas", the "Iberos". Then they fused and formed our beloved "Lusitanos", with my hero, Viriato, as a leader, the closest thing we had of a Vercingetorix. Then came the bittersweet roman occupation. Do I love them, do I hate them? I can't make up my mind... *sigh* One fine day the roman empire came to an end and the barbarian Visigoths took over the place, but soon the Arabs took over them. The Arabs spread across the whole peninsula, dominating everything except the upper Douro region, the spanish Galicia and Asturias. I guess the Arabs didn't like to climb that much... The organized reconquest started on those mountains.
In 1103, the mighty King Afonso VI of Castilla e Léon decided to reward the brave french knight, Henrique, who had behaved very well in the Reconquest Wars. Afonso gave him a title, some land and a wife, is lovely (cough, cough) daughter Teresa of Léon. The happy couple went to live in the Condado Portucalense, and had a baby who was named after the grandfather and the father, Afonso Henriques.
Now, if there's something every Portuguese child is certain about this period of our history is that Castilla e Léon was the enemy and Teresa was a filthy bitch.
Why? When Afonso Henriques grew up he decided that he was no Count, he was a King! He wanted to detach is small Portugal from the big Castella e Léon. Afonso VI, his grandfather was not easily persuaded and nor was Teresa who wanted to remain castellana at all cost. They both fought him several times but Afonso Henriques won, became our first king and my favorite. Don't you just love him?
So, here we are, small and proud and independent... even though half of the americans still think we are a piece of Spain... HEHEH! What can I say? Why did you think we don't get along with the spanish? ;) Joking, my great grandmother was spanish...
This year something happened. I met a very special spaniard. One that I got along just fine. He inspired me to make peace with nuestros hermanos so I had to go wave the white flag were it all begun. Coincidently, Léon was the birthplace of this delicious former enemy so I ordered him some tips before I go.
Léon. I walked it's streets with the piece of paper with his printed words and followed it religiously. He is a very interesting person and some of our tastes are similar, so I trusted him entirely.
You didn't let me down. I swear Vil, I could hear your voice all the way.
Highlander and I found a small Hostal near the Cathedral, dropped our bags and went sightseeing. His knee was still hurting bad from our former hiking adventures (to be told very soon) so we took our time.
The San Marcos Medieval Hospital for the Santiago pilgrims, now converted in a Parador Nacional, was our first stop. The "plateresco" reliefs were stunning. I had read about this spanish kind of late gothic ornaments, similar to our "manuelino", but I have never saw it as well as in this city. I had to make Highlander step on the grass to take my photo next to it...and then I simply had to make my stupid smile no.34...
Proceeding to the river Bernesga area, we sat under the threes and watched the birds and people canoing. Not much water on the river, though, it needs a strong rain, I remember thinking. Then the most extraordinary thing happened, my fairy powers seemed to have awaken! Heavy clouds gathered in the sky and covered the sun, and by the time we reached Basilica de San Isidoro, rain was pouring down on us!
We took refuge in the amazing cloister after seeing the very ancient codices in the museum. I love monasteries! I'm sure I was a naughty monk in a past life... We stood there for ages (well, the rain didn't want to stop...)
There was time for Highlander to find more about the Roman Legio VII Gemina and decipher all of his precious tomb writings (our king's aunt, Doña Urraca, was there) and for me to marvel at the romanesque frescoes. Amazing representations of Bibilical Scenes, and such colors! And a funny thing, I saw my friend Marco's face in every saint, except the ones with the animal heads! Priceless! He will be thrilled to know that he has a sort of medieval look!
The Cathedral next and it's wonderful glass work. Too bad the sun was absent, I missed it's full splendor...
In the cathedral surroundings I found a Church called Santa Marina! Spain, I'm yours! Thanks! Too bad they were working on it and I couldn't see it.
Back in the hotel for a shower, Highlander and I almost died when we saw on the TV an animated series we used to watch as kids. It was the very medieval "Ruy, el pequeño Cid", about the childhood of Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, "El Cid Campeador". I used to love that!!!!! And what a strange coincidence, Rui is Highlander's real name. The city of Léon really treats us well...
But that was nothing compared to what we were about to experience that night. My dear prince sent us to el Barrio Húmedo for dinner. "El Miche" was full and the outside tables were a bit wet from the rain, so we went to "La Mazmorra" instead and ordered "Morcillas", as recommended. Mamma mia!! (wait, that's italian...) Wonderful flavor!! And to think that I don't like portuguese morcelas... For those of you who don't know about these delicacies, I'm talking about cooked blood. Revolting, huh?
After dinner we hang out on the Plaza Mayor, and surrounding streets and then headed for the very mysterious and cozy "El cafetin", for a caipirinha. We were a bit confused because we weren't sure if this was the right place to be, because my friend have also called it "Quatro gatos" and we saw no cat's around. So my Campeador, who speaks spanish like El Cid, went to the bartender and told him our doubts. And yes, "El cafetin" was once called "Quatro gatos"! We stayed there the whole night. The music was fine, the caipirinhas were kind of soft but the conversation was great. I think Highlander may have asked me to marry him but I'm trying not to think about that right now... He is too sweet!! I adore him!
In conclusion. making friends on the internet is very useful and you should all visit Léon (oh, yes, I was paid from the Spanish Government to say this :P)
Thank you, Vil, I love you.