just balance on the fence

Dec 17, 2012 20:30

Proper recovery, it makes a difference.

I have assembled all the pieces for the v0 that was kicking my ass. It should come together Wednesday. I might have had a breakthrough on the blue/brown balance-y v2, though that was sufficiently close to the end that I was not going to practice bad habits in from fatigue. (Hips. They have an effect on your center of mass' location.) White/natural I have made progress on and appear to be stuck in a new place. To describe briefly: I have two crappy half-pocket, half-crimp sorts of things for my hands. One of these is a straight down-pull about 2 feet above a ledge; one is an angled down/side pull about 9" above the same ledge and a couple feet off to the left. Nice foot chip constructs for my left foot about 18" down from said ledge, and I can get my right foot on there no problem. The difficulty, you ask? Getting enough weight onto my right foot that I can stand up, without screwing up my balance horribly. When I make that move, my weight is about 30/30/40 between my hands and my left foot, and wants to swing right (in a way that pulls me clean off the ledge) pretty badly. Losing either hand, with or without losing/moving my left foot, is prone to me coming right off. About the only thing I can do (and this is not easy) is to flail my left foot around looking for something better. I fished around at all the ways it can dangle down and got nowhere.

I think, gods help me, it needs to come up and heel-hook around where my left hand is working. Yes, that's a terrible idea that leaves me dropping really low and leaning a long way back. I got nothing better, though.

falling off perfectly good rocks

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