Sep 13, 2014 05:39
Flights from Himalistan are famously subject to delay or cancellation due to fog, rain, or other adverse meteorology. Leaving the business class lounge when the flight is called, I go through immigration and see there is a duty free shop. Wondering whether I can spend my last few hundred rupees I dash in and find disappointingly that it has no gift tat, only vats of whisky and overpriced watches and such, but there is a copy of collected editorials from the Himalistan Observer that I'm quite interested in so I pick it up. I wait while a group of overweight and possibly Chinese tourists try to get rid of thousands of rupees by calculating the price of bottles of this and that. The woman behind the desk does frantic computations on a calculator, while an airport official stands at the door urging expedition. 'Please hurry - there is a change in the weather - there will be a delay otherwise.'
By the gate, it turns out, there is another stall selling the usual tat. To the disapproving frown of the official by the gate I dart off to see if I can spend my last 270 rupees, i.e. about £2.70. I don't have time to look at the items on offer. I rush up breathing, 'I have 250 rupees, what can I buy?' She picks out a coin purse for 150. I grab it, throw the money at her and run.
There are only two of us in the business class section of the plane. An announcement crackles into life: 'Ladies and gentlemen, please note that smoking and chewing paan (i.e. betel nut) are strictly forbidden on this flight, and there are smoke detectors in the toilets.' Quick everyone, go wild! The toilets have no betel nut detectors.
As you fly between Himalistan and Kathmandu, out of the window there is a huge, featureless white plain with, here and there, geometric white pyramids standing alone amid the desolation. The plain is cloud, and the pyramids that pierce it are the peaks of Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Everest.