Three broths/stocks to accompany 'Country-Style Ragu' recipe
Broth/Stock recipes by Lynne Rossetto Kasper to accompany Country-Style Ragu.
Poultry/Meat Stock
Brodo
Although this is the foundation of many dishes in Emilia-Romagna's cuisine, the stock is terrific on its own. Drink it first as a restorative from steaming mugs on an icy winter night. It is one of the most flavorful and satisfying stocks I know, and I doubt I could recover from a cold without it. The stock also creates the most elegant of openings to a dinner party when served in deep soup cups, accompanied only by spoonfuls of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Of course, ladles of it bring depth and character to soups, stews, sautes, and sauces. Make Poultry/Meat Stock in large quantities every few months, as it freezes with great success.
[Makes about 8 quarts]
2 to 3 pounds meaty beef shank or "soup" bones, trimmed of fat
8 to 9 pounds whole capon or turkey wings (or a combination), chopped into 3 inch pieces
3 stalks of celery with leaves, chopped
3 large carrots, chopped
4 very large onions, unpeeled (trim away root ends), chopped
2 large California bay laurel leaves, broken
3 spring Italian parsley
2 large cloves garlic, unpeeled, crushed
Method
Working Ahead: The stock holds, covered, in the refrigerator 3 to 4 days. Freeze it up to 4 months in different-size containers, from 2-tablespoon ice cubes to quart jars.
Starting the Stock: In one 20 quart or two 10-quart stockpots, combine the beef and poultry. Cover it with cold water by about 4 inches, and set over medium heat. Let the water come to a slow bubble. Skim off all foam rising to the surface.
Simmering: Add the vegetables, bay leaves, parsley, and garlic. Regulate the heat so the broth bubbles only occasionally (so you can say "one hundred" between bubbles.) Partially cover, and cook 12 to 14 hours, skimmkng the fat from the surface every so often. If necessary, add boiling water to keep the solids covered.
The long cooking time surprises many. This extended simmering draws all the flavor from the meat and bones, producing a stock with exceptionally deep taste. You can start the stock after dinner and let it cook all night, partially covered, at a slow bubble. Make sure it is bubbling slowly, because leaving it below a bubble will cause spoilage. The next morning turn off the heat and strain the stock.
Finishing: Refrigerate the strained stock until fat hardens on the surface. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat. (In Emilia-Romagna one sign of a proper broth is luminous pin dots of fat called "eyes" of the broth. Although never greasy, the tiny amount of fat gives flavor.) Pour into storage containers and refrigerate or freeze.
Meat Essences
Il Sugo di Carne
Literally translated as "juice of the meat," Il Sugo di Carne is an old sauce base that was developed in the wealthy kitchens of the last century. With the disappearance of servants and hired cooks, it fell into disuse. I think it deserves revival, and agree with the few cooks still making Il Sugo di Carne that it brings a special elegance to foods. A hundred years ago, when a soup, sauce, stew, or saute lacked depth or character, the cook often stirred in a few tablespoons of Meat Essences. It was a flavor booster then, and it does the same today. Think of it as a concentrate bursting with the flavor of meat but low in fat. A few spoonfuls can cause a dish to taste as if it has been cooking for hours, when in reality it was on the stove for only a few minutes. This is splendid on its own over pasta, making an elegant meat sauce with surprising lightness. A full recipe sauces four pounds of tagliatelle. A quarter to a half cup brings new dimension to Classic White Risotto and Risotto with Red Wine and Rosemary. Since the essence freezes well, and a little goes such a long way, make a batch every few months. Just the aroma is worth the effort of cooking it.
[Makes 4 cups]
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 ounces lean pancetta, chopped
6 thin slices prosciutto, chopped
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 small carrot, thinly sliced
1 small stalk celery with leaves, thinly sliced
1 pound meaty veal neck bones or chopped breast of veal, trimmed of fat
1 pound chicken wings, chopped into small pieces
1 1/2 to 2 pounds meaty beef neck bones, trimmed of excess fat
2 large California bay laurel leaves
6 whole cloves
1 cup dry red wine
3 1/2 quarts Poultry/Meat Stock (see above)
2 small cloves garlic, crushed
Method Working Ahead: Meat Essences holds well 5 days, in the refrigerator. It freezes up to 3 months.
Browning the Sauce: Divide the butter and oil between two large, heavy saute pans. Spread a layer of half the pancetta and prosciutto in each pan. Then divide the onion, carrot, celery, veal, chicken wings, and beef between the pans. Set the pans over medium-high heat. Do not stir or cover until you can smell the onion browning and hear sizzling in each pan. This takes about 8 minutes. Lower the heat to medium.
Using a wooden spatula, turn the meats over and continue cooking 20 minutes, or until the pieces are deeply browned on all sides. Lower the heat if necessary to avoid burning the onion or the brown glaze forming on the bottoms of the pans.
Reducing: Stir in the bay leaves and the cloves. Divide the wine between the two pans and let it bubble slowly, scraping up the brown glaze as the wine cooks down. Cook 8 to 10 minutes over medium heat until the wine has disappeared. Add 1 cup of the stock to each pan, and let it bubble slowly another 8 to 10 minutes, or until reduced to nothing. Stir frequently. repeat twice more with 1 cup of stock each time for each pan. Make sure the stock is totally evaporated before adding the next cup.
Simmering and Finishing: Turn the contents of both pans into a 6- to 8 quart heavy pot. Stir in the remaining stock, along with the tomatoes and garlic. Adjust heat so the liquid is bubbling occasionally. Partially cover. Cook 6 hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock or water to keep the meat and bones barely covered. Strain the essences into a bowl, firmly pressing on the meat and vegetables to extract as much liquid as possible. Allow to cool; then cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, skim off all the fat from the surface, and refrigerate or freeze.
Cook's Note: Do not substitute Quick Stock here or any other stock based on canned broth. Having the salt-free Poultry-Meat Stock enriched from is own long cooking as the base of the essence ensures the fullest deepest flavor possible.
Quick Stock
Brodo Rapido
A practical solution for those days when you do not have time to make the long-simmered Poultry/Meat Stock. This quick version uses canned broth, blunting its canned taste with aromatic vegetables and herbs. Although it is no match for the lustry Poultry/Meat Stock, it does work well in most dishes, with the exception of pastas cooked and served in broth.
[Makes about 6 cups]
1 medium onion
Four 14 1/2 ounce cans low-salt chicken broth, chilled
1 large stalk celery with leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 large carrot, coarsely chopped
2 medium onions, unpeeled (trim away root ends), coarsely chopped
2 sprigs Italian parsley
1 large clove garlic, crushed
Generous pinch of dried basil
Working Ahead: You can hold Quick Stock covered in the refrigerator 3 ot 4 days, or freeze it up to 3 months.
Making the Stock: Preheat the broiler, setting the oven rack as close as possible to the flame. Trim the root end from the first onion, but do not peel it. Cut it into 4 thick slices. Arrange them on a sheet of aluminum foil and slip under the broiler. Broil 15 minutes, or until browned on both sides, turning once. Pour the broth into a 6 quart pot, and skim off the hardened fat. Add the broiled onion, and all the remaining ingredients, nd bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the broth is bubbling slowly, cover tightly, and cook 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, and strain the stock. use it right way, or allow it to cool, and then cover and refrigerate or freeze.