I'm back!
I'm sorry I left without saying good-bye last Saturday. Things were going smoothly until suddenly time seemed to fly by and before I knew it I had to put my suitcase in the car. We'd decided that I stay overnight at my parents' since we wanted to set off at 4 am, and with as little hassle as possible. And we did. Plus we took a different route from the usual one, via Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Zirler Berg rather than another very busy route. But since we set off early Sunday morning, we evaded the crowds anyway (who'd made for the South Friday afternoon and Saturday.
Traffic was light, and so we arrived at Ugolino (the Little Hill on the Via Chiantigiana, just outside Florence) just in time for lunch -- in the pouring rain. Not really what we were expecting. Nor was the restaurant, which is an excellent place to satisfy your keenest dreams of seafood. Or dining out for the week, for that matter. I could write an entire post only about the food we enjoyed. Delicious as ever, no matter which restaurants we tried out (some of them we already knew from earlier visits, others, like the seafood place -- at the very heart of the Chianti, no less, with the sea a two hours' journey away -- were new to us).
The rain, when it came, on Monday was very light, we didn't even need umbrellas. And the good thing is that when it rains in Tuscany, the temperatures are still agreeable. Although I must admit I so packed the wrong clothes, much too light. I was expecting higher temperatures. Oh well. It was a perfect day for exploring Florence. We went in by bus, and explored the San Lorenzo street market and the Mercato Centrale (food, food, and did I mention food?). I dragged my folks inside Santa Maria Novella, a beautiful Romanesque church, after which the central station is named. I took a chance and snapped a picture of the Giotto cross (without flash, too, but even snapping pictures without flash is forbidden in most churches) while the supervisor wasn't looking. The frescoes never cease to amaze me -- I took some pics of the frescoes in the Chapter Hall and of the Chiostro Verde, the Green Cloister. While the latter are half outside and faded, the former were still brilliant. If I'd had more time I'd have lingered, but Dad was anxious to move on, and go for lunch at Trattoria Zà-Zà -- our favourite haunt in the city.
I went back to Florence on Wednesday (Tuesday was the National Holiday) to explore the Uffizi. I'd already been, ages ago, and wanted to see the Birth of Venus, the Primavera and the Duke and Duchess of Urbino again -- along with lots of other works. Luckily, I'd booked my ticket in advance so I could skip the lengthy line at admission. Of course, it was very crowded inside, but I made the most of the time I had, although I didn't get to see everything I wanted to. The Botticelli paintings were there, though, so I was happy to lose myself in the Birth of Venus for a while. Afterwards, I went to the Museum of Sciences, which was a bad joke. Although the admission fee was reduced due to remodelling, there was hardly anything to see, and I felt a bit cheated. The best thing was the Nocturnal you could try out to calculate the time at night -- a sundial for the night; I hadn't known something like that existed.
I skipped the Bargello, since the (original) David was out on loan (I could always admire him in the Piazza della Signoria), and the admission fee seemed a tad hefty. Instead, I took a peek at the Badía, and finally made it inside the Palazzo Vecchio. The main assembly hall really left an impression -- I've never felt so small in a hall like that. Cathedrals rarely ever have that effect on me -- except Lincoln Cathedral. Also, the loggia offered a beautiful view of the city without having to climb a tower. I'm afraid of heights, so I was happy I got a decent view without having to climb the Duomo's Campanile on shaky legs. After that, I visited Orsanmichele, a church that wasn't one for a while and then was conecrated again, and has an almost square layout. You wouldn't recognise it for a church from the outside. It's beautifully adorned with statues of the patro saints of the city's major guilds.
Thursday we went to San Gimignano, a mediaeval hill-top town famous for its tower-houses. The fifteen towers rise above the scenery like a modern city's silhouette. It's a very touristy spot, but we arrived early so were spared the worst. Also, this early in June, there aren't that many visitors yet. I took loads and loads of pictures, mostly of architectural details, as you'll see. We had the world's best ice-cream there, too. I had pistachio and hazelnut -- and it as divine. I also went to see the frescoes in the Collegiata. It's the most comprehensively frescoed church in Tuscany -- and its beauty took my breath away. The colours are so brilliant and intense, the details so rich and vivid they draw you in and you could sit there for ages to take it all in. Of course, I couldn't do that, since Dad was once again eagert o move on, so I only got a sneak, really. And of course I couldn't resist taking a couple of quick pictures (without flash, while the lax security weren't looking, too busy texting each other). I think they turned out quite well, considering.
We went wine tasting, of course, and I ended up buying two dozen bottles of Chianti Classico (in 375ml bottles, though). I finally read two books -- I haven't been reading a lot of books recently, mostly fanfic, and it was nice to lose myself in a book again.
All in all it was a wonderful week. Sadly, last night some drunken neighbours decided to have a party at 4 in the morning, with loud music. I didn't want to close the window, and so I had a hard time going back to sleep on my hard, narrow bed. We were so miserable, all of us, that we got up at six and set off home at half six. Again, the journey was swift, and I was home early enough to do my duty as a good European citizen and go vote (I'd failed to apply for voting by post before we left, and had already settled not to vote, with a bad conscience, too).
Slideshow of my Tuscan Romp
Traffic was light, and so we arrived at Ugolino (the Little Hill on the Via Chiantigiana, just outside Florence) just in time for lunch -- in the pouring rain. Not really what we were expecting. Nor was the restaurant, which is an excellent place to satisfy your keenest dreams of seafood. Or dining out for the week, for that matter. I could write an entire post only about the food we enjoyed. Delicious as ever, no matter which restaurants we tried out (some of them we already knew from earlier visits, others, like the seafood place -- at the very heart of the Chianti, no less, with the sea a two hours' journey away -- were new to us).
The rain, when it came, on Monday was very light, we didn't even need umbrellas. And the good thing is that when it rains in Tuscany, the temperatures are still agreeable. Although I must admit I so packed the wrong clothes, much too light. I was expecting higher temperatures. Oh well. It was a perfect day for exploring Florence. We went in by bus, and explored the San Lorenzo street market and the Mercato Centrale (food, food, and did I mention food?). I dragged my folks inside Santa Maria Novella, a beautiful Romanesque church, after which the central station is named. I took a chance and snapped a picture of the Giotto cross (without flash, too, but even snapping pictures without flash is forbidden in most churches) while the supervisor wasn't looking. The frescoes never cease to amaze me -- I took some pics of the frescoes in the Chapter Hall and of the Chiostro Verde, the Green Cloister. While the latter are half outside and faded, the former were still brilliant. If I'd had more time I'd have lingered, but Dad was anxious to move on, and go for lunch at Trattoria Zà-Zà -- our favourite haunt in the city.
I went back to Florence on Wednesday (Tuesday was the National Holiday) to explore the Uffizi. I'd already been, ages ago, and wanted to see the Birth of Venus, the Primavera and the Duke and Duchess of Urbino again -- along with lots of other works. Luckily, I'd booked my ticket in advance so I could skip the lengthy line at admission. Of course, it was very crowded inside, but I made the most of the time I had, although I didn't get to see everything I wanted to. The Botticelli paintings were there, though, so I was happy to lose myself in the Birth of Venus for a while. Afterwards, I went to the Museum of Sciences, which was a bad joke. Although the admission fee was reduced due to remodelling, there was hardly anything to see, and I felt a bit cheated. The best thing was the Nocturnal you could try out to calculate the time at night -- a sundial for the night; I hadn't known something like that existed.
I skipped the Bargello, since the (original) David was out on loan (I could always admire him in the Piazza della Signoria), and the admission fee seemed a tad hefty. Instead, I took a peek at the Badía, and finally made it inside the Palazzo Vecchio. The main assembly hall really left an impression -- I've never felt so small in a hall like that. Cathedrals rarely ever have that effect on me -- except Lincoln Cathedral. Also, the loggia offered a beautiful view of the city without having to climb a tower. I'm afraid of heights, so I was happy I got a decent view without having to climb the Duomo's Campanile on shaky legs. After that, I visited Orsanmichele, a church that wasn't one for a while and then was conecrated again, and has an almost square layout. You wouldn't recognise it for a church from the outside. It's beautifully adorned with statues of the patro saints of the city's major guilds.
Thursday we went to San Gimignano, a mediaeval hill-top town famous for its tower-houses. The fifteen towers rise above the scenery like a modern city's silhouette. It's a very touristy spot, but we arrived early so were spared the worst. Also, this early in June, there aren't that many visitors yet. I took loads and loads of pictures, mostly of architectural details, as you'll see. We had the world's best ice-cream there, too. I had pistachio and hazelnut -- and it as divine. I also went to see the frescoes in the Collegiata. It's the most comprehensively frescoed church in Tuscany -- and its beauty took my breath away. The colours are so brilliant and intense, the details so rich and vivid they draw you in and you could sit there for ages to take it all in. Of course, I couldn't do that, since Dad was once again eagert o move on, so I only got a sneak, really. And of course I couldn't resist taking a couple of quick pictures (without flash, while the lax security weren't looking, too busy texting each other). I think they turned out quite well, considering.
We went wine tasting, of course, and I ended up buying two dozen bottles of Chianti Classico (in 375ml bottles, though). I finally read two books -- I haven't been reading a lot of books recently, mostly fanfic, and it was nice to lose myself in a book again.
All in all it was a wonderful week. Sadly, last night some drunken neighbours decided to have a party at 4 in the morning, with loud music. I didn't want to close the window, and so I had a hard time going back to sleep on my hard, narrow bed. We were so miserable, all of us, that we got up at six and set off home at half six. Again, the journey was swift, and I was home early enough to do my duty as a good European citizen and go vote (I'd failed to apply for voting by post before we left, and had already settled not to vote, with a bad conscience, too).
Slideshow of my Tuscan Romp