WANderlust - Shiraz 2015
Our introduction to Iran began with Shiraz, one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia and not to be missed. The flight from Dubai to Shiraz, though short, had a fascinating view of the desert which I enjoyed tremendously.
For our 3 day visit, we stayed at Niayesh Hotel, which was simple but comfortable. Conveniently located in walking distance of most sights, they can also arrange your day tours and transport.
What I liked most about Shiraz
- The warm hospitality of the people we befriended - Maysem, our guide to the nomads, took us home for tea and pomegranates (the BEST pomegranates in my life were all in Iran, and Maysem's was definitely one of the top 3 I had, if not the best). Though we only met him that day, it felt like we had a friend showing us around. I have travelled for a bit, and no guide has ever offered to show me their home.
- Shah Cheragh, the first mosque we visited (and we went on to visit A TON) that blew me away with stunning mosaic work - intricate details that left me gaping at everything. Little did I know this would be common throughout my visit. This is the most important place of pilgrimage in Shiraz, and entrance is free. Women have to wear a chador, a full length cloak available for free at the entrance, to enter and there was an English speaking guide to take us around.
It's a pity pictures are not allowed of the interiors because they were breathtaking - the holy shrine is covered with mirrored tiles, like a giant disco ball. I was totally bedazzled. If you look up, the ceiling is covered with bits of coloured ceramic, painstakingly pieced together to form a colourful mosaic of such exacting symmetry. It's even more impressive considering this was built in the 14th century, devoid of modern tools I assume. I can't even draw a straight line! This is definitely a must see. - The pink mosque Nasir-al-Mulk, commonly features in travel pictures of Iran because of the lightplay from its colourful stained glass windows, not commonly found in mosques. Do go in the morning to see the hues at its best; we were there in the afternoon so it was less impressive. The exterior is also worth a mention due to its beautiful tile work in pastel hues of pink, blue and yellow, once again of perfect symmetry.
- Go on a day trip to learn about the nomadic lifestyle - the nomads live in a village about 2 hours away from the city during the winter. They rear goats and sheep, weave carpets and host tourists as a livelihood. One of the ladies treated us to flat bread being made on hot stone - it tasted like papadum, crisp and I couldn't get enough of it.
- CREAM PUFFS (not just in Shiraz but in Iran!). It's not commonplace to think of cream puffs when one talks about Iran but on our first night in Shiraz, we stumbled upon a bakery and had some of the best puffs in our lives. Henceforth, we bought some whenever we came across them and they were ALWAYS delicious, some more than others. This is a seriously underrated snack of Iran.
An hour away from Shiraz are the ruins of Persepolis, the capital of the Achaemenid Empire built in 518 B.C under Darius I, son of Cyrus the Great. We engaged a guide at the entrance; Nahid did such a great job sharing the history and symbolism, listening to her felt like I was watching a movie like in 300. Persepolis is a sprawling complex consisting of receiving halls, palaces and even a treasury. Huge columns topped with elaborate capitals (that once again left me wondering how these were built) and precise reliefs (so detailed you can identify which nationalities were being depicted) depict a highly skilled civilisation. Urban planning such as tunnels for drainage and sewage, and idealogies such as an equal society without slaves, imply a modern society ahead of its time. It does seem like we have regressed.
Besides Persepolis, we also visited Naqsh-e Rostam and Pasargarde. The former is an ancient necropolis of the Achaemenid Empire consists of four large tombs carved into the cliffs high above. Similar to Persepolis with its detailed murals, it was also a breathtaking sight to behold. It seems to be a good resting place, since the view of the nearby mountains leaves one feeling at peace.
Pasargarde was the first capital of the Achaemenid Empire, but under Cyrus the Great, founded in the 6th century B.C, before it moved to Persepolis. We being ignorant fools of Persian history were only expecting to see the tomb of Cyrus, only to be surprised by the remarkable size of the ruins. Cyrus the Great truly deserved his title - he respected the cultural and religious differences of the lands he conquered, establishing a centralised administration mindful of human rights (a modern concept that is still hard to achieve even now!).
These 3 cities really left me marvelling at the ingenuity of people in a time far before us, who had access to so much less, but seemed to have made far more than we could ever achieve. Given they can be covered in a day on the way to Yazd, I highly recommend spending some time to appreciate these precious remains of a time long past.
More related photos on Flickr and Instagram.