Another travel journal - Thanksgiving 2008
Thanksgiving in NYC
November 25 - December 2, 2008
I’ve been suggesting to Dennie for several years that we visit New York City over Thanksgiving. This year he finally agreed since our ten-year-old faux niece Melody Hollis was making her Broadway debut in Irving Berlin’s White Christmas, and he realized he could also get a close look at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. We ended up trying a lot of new things and enjoyed a most excellent vacation.
Connections & Accommodations
We flew out of O’Hare and parked at FASTTRACK/AviStar once again. (http://www.fasttrack.com ) Once you use their valet parking, they send coupons each month that make long term parking very affordable. Their shuttle service is timely, too. Unfortunately upon our return their computers were down and it took some extra time to pay up and check out, but we’ll use them again anyway.
We flew USAirways with a stop in Washington, DC, in each direction. We prefer to fly nonstop but this was the most affordable deal available when we belatedly booked our flight. Our flight between Chicago and DC was partnered with United so, of course, we initially went to the wrong terminal to check in. (Note to self: Read the small print on your travel confirmation!) I’m happy to report that the food at Ronald Reagan (DC) airport is inexpensive and Dennie was able to take photos of historic buildings right from the terminal.
We normally grab a bus from the airport to Port Authority but, since Dennie was traveling with a flexible cast on his left ankle and we were staying farther north than usual, we opted for Super Shuttle (http://www.supershuttle.com/ ). This van service is extremely well organized. We enjoyed meeting an adventurous family from Alabama and seeing the sights on the way to our hotel. We were picked up in a timely manner for our return and got to see some of the Upper East Side on our way to LaGuardia. We also rode the subways more than usual and had absolutely no problem doing so; the holiday schedule was a bit confusing but there was a very helpful New Yorker to help us.
Like everything else, New York hotel rates have gone up in the past few months so we were looking for a better rate than that offered by our usual haunt. I’m pleased to report that we were very happy with the Imperial Court Hotel on 79th near West End Avenue. (http://www.imperialcourthotel.com/ ) I believe that there is a minimum one-week stay-if you qualify, check it out. Our room was more spacious than in comparable boutique hotels in the Theatre District. We had a kitchenette with coffeemaker, refrigerator, microwave and sink. We bought instant oatmeal, yogurt and string cheese and breakfasted in our room. The maid even washed our dishes!
Tuesday, November 25
Once we got unpacked and settled in our room, our first stop was the brand new tkts booth in Times Square. Fellow theatre aficionados know that we have been awaiting completion of the new booth for several years while enjoying the shelter of the temporary booth at the Marriott Marquis. Our first reaction to the new booth was positive until we stood in line a few times and realized that patrons aren’t sheltered from the elements. The improvements are only for the employees-the general public merely benefits from the fact that they now accept credit cards.
There we met our dear friend Dawn (Melody’s mom) who had already picked up tickets for an evening show. We sat at Junior’s Deli (http://www.juniorscheesecake.com/) and enjoyed coffee and catching up while Melody finished her school day at the theatre. Our little Broadway star greeted us enthusiastically and then slipped away to chat with a new friend, 14-year-old Kiril Kulish, who is currently one of three Billy Elliots appearing in that smash Broadway musical. He was dining alone so she kept him company and he bought her a soda. Happily she returned to us when our meals arrived. Dennie had recently lunched with a friend and enjoyed some matzoh ball soup and was on a quest to repeat that happy experience. So he ordered matzoh ball soup and a turkey burger. I felt very healthy with the huge barbecue chicken salad which I was unable to finish. Dawn ordered the BLT on challah bread. Junior’s has something for everybody!
Wednesday night Dawn accompanied us to the revival of EQUUS. The three of us were standing outside the theatre when former Elginite Courtney Reed wandered by and recognized us! Courtney appeared in EVITA with Dennie and me several years ago here at ECC; she’s now a professional actress appearing in MAMMA MIA on Broadway. While we were excitedly babbling, we saw our Elgin friends Mike and Jeff heading into the theatre. They frequently visit NYC over Thanksgiving; we had already compared notes and made plans to meet them during our visit.
For anyone who hasn’t already heard or read about it, this Broadway revival stars Daniel Radcliffe (Harry Potter) and Richard Griffiths (Uncle Vernon). I had seen the show only once before in 1977 with then unknowns Tom Wopat and Dana Delaney, and I had always liked the dense, interesting script. The staging of this production was fairly simple until the special effects kicked in. Six actors play horses with sculpted metal heads and hooves. The only thing I disliked was Griffiths’ costume-he may be an enormous man but he didn’t have to look like a schlub. Speaking of costumes, Radcliffe’s nudity was tastefully handled and lit.
Wednesday, November 26
Dennie hit the streets earlier than I did in order to see Beyonce performing on the Today Show at Rockefeller Center. I stopped at a newsstand south of Columbus Circle to check e-mail and then hightailed it down to the tkts booth. Dennie wanted to see the Christmas Spectacular at Radio City; I opted not to accompany him since I’m such a legitimate theatre snob. I finished purchasing his ticket at 10:45 and then sprinted down 47th Street to meet him at Sixth Avenue and walk him up to Radio City for the 11:00 performance. Then I strolled through Rockefeller Center and Bryant Park and enjoyed watching the skaters. When he finally made it out of the theatre, Dennie was very enthusiastic about the show. He had even photographed much of it. We walked to a restaurant I had scoped out for lunch-the Kosher Deluxe on 46th between 6th and 5th. This deli was packed with New Yorkers but we managed to find seats and enjoy (what else?) matzoh ball soup and a side of hummus.
I had also purchased matinee tickets for Horton Foote’s DIVIDING THE ESTATE. Mr. Foote wrote the screenplays for TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD and TENDER MERCIES, and I’m a big fan of a little film he wrote called VALENTINE’S DAY which featured his actress daughter Hallie. This production opened with a painted scrim that matched a painting over the family’s dining room table. The set and furnishings were gorgeous. This is a dysfunctional family dramedy not unlike AUGUST: OSAGE COUNTY. Sort of a Lillian Hellman tragedy fast forwarded to contemporary times. The cast includes Penny Fuller, Elizabeth Ashley, Gerald McRaney and Hallie Foote whose arrival onstage kicked the comedy into high gear.
Dennie and I headed to the Upper East Side after the matinee. He scoped out the parade preparations around 77th and Central Park West and was forced to do a lot more walking than he intended. I stopped back at our hotel after purchasing some H&H Bagels, arguably New York’s finest. I also stuck my head into Zabar’s but it was a zoo on the day before Thanksgiving.
Then I walked down to the Barnes & Noble at Lincoln Center for Jackie Hoffman’s CD release concert. She’s a comedic musical actress that Dennie and I had enjoyed in both HAIRSPRAY and XANADU. The songs on her new CD are all original and just as funny and even more profane than her Broadway work. I was excited to recognize her Xanadu castmate Tony Roberts when he strolled in. Dennie showed up mid-concert and afterward we walked down to the Whole Foods at Columbus Circle and grabbed a light dinner. I felt both virtuous and satisfied with the triple squash soup and multigrain roll.
We had purchased our evening tickets on-line from GoldstarEvents.com a couple weeks earlier. It’s a great way to obtain discount tickets to shows, concerts, comedy clubs, spa services et cetera in several major cities. If you haven’t signed up yet, please let me send you a link. Anyway that evening we saw a revival of the classic American musical, PAL JOEY, by Rodgers and Hart. Several friends had seen previews and reported problems with the show so we were delighted to learn that the male lead had been replaced! The role is a big one and understudy Matthew Risch gave an impressive performance, especially since he’d taken over only five days earlier. I had trouble envisioning Martha Plimpton in a Broadway musical so I was happily flabbergasted by her impressive performance. Stockard Channing was memorable and funny in the book scenes. However, she chose to act rather than sing the classic ballad, “Bewitched.” Call me old fashioned but I want to hear my ballads sung! This production was also notable for its staged overture and a couple fantastic sets of chorus girl costumes.
Mike and Jeff saw this performance, too, so the four of us went out for a nosh afterward at the Cosmic Diner at 53rd and 8th. I wanted something light so I ordered the delicious dolmades (stuffed grape leaves). We had a great time chatting and comparing notes and vowed to renew our efforts to get together back home in Elgin.
Thanksgiving, November 27
Luddites no longer, we bought a second cell phone for this trip since we were afraid Dennie wouldn’t be able to keep up. Instead he hit the street first and found a place to watch and photograph the parade in front of the Shops at Columbus Circle. He called to tell me where he was; I headed down there and miraculously stumbled upon him amidst the throngs as soon as I came up from the subway. We were a couple blocks from the actual parade route but still able to see the balloons and masses of humanity. Of course, this was a major photo op, too! After the parade had passed, it was impossible to get down to the subway so we walked with the crowd down to 43rd where we met Mike and Jeff at the Westin. The four of us continued south to find a place to eat and ended up at the Skylight Diner at 34th and 9th. Dennie ordered matzoh ball soup once again; we both enjoyed turkey burgers with sweet potato fries for our Thanksgiving dinner!
Afterward Mike and Jeff kindly and generously took us to Madison Square Gardens (our first visit!) to see Cirque du Soleil’s WINTUK. It was a colorful, festive seasonal show featuring skateboarding, stunt biking, clowning, juggling, tumbling, contortionists, singing streetlamps and puppetry. There were four dogs, a gigantic puppet snowman, and two amazing stilt cranes. Of course, the show ended with a blizzard of confetti snow!
Later Dennie and I strolled over to the original Macy’s, site of the morning’s parade performances, where we admired the decorated windows. A few blocks north we visited an old favorite, the Jerusalem II Deli, where Dennie enjoyed a cheese calzone and I ordered cheesecake. Up at Times Square I noticed something brand new. Longtime readers know that I’m always on the lookout for public restrooms in Manhattan so I was thrilled to see a billboard for the Charmin Restrooms and Duracell Lodge! Unfortunately it’s only open for the holiday season. We rode the escalator to the second floor where I waited in line to use one of twenty individual bathrooms. There was an emcee at the front of the line and several employees who checked each room after use. We visited again on Monday with Melody and Dawn. On the third floor they have jacks so you can recharge any phone, camera or laptop. They also had several Wii games so, of course, we will always think of it as the “pee and Wii” place.
That evening we played the lottery for front row seats to White Christmas without any luck. We purchased tkts to see FORBIDDEN BROADWAY GOES TO REHAB. Various versions of this show have been running for over twenty years to deservedly good reviews. The spoofs of Kristin Chenoweth, Liza Minelli, Spring Awakening, Bernadette Peters and a Stephen Sondheim sequence were brilliant and hilarious.
Friday, November 28
We slept in and Dennie lounged in the room while I found a new place near our hotel to check e-mail. Then we headed down to Times Square to see what was up at tkts. While Dennie sat at the Times Square Visitors Center, I hiked over to 6th Avenue for a falafel sandwich. On our way back to the Marriott Marquis for the White Christmas lottery, we were surprised to find the Naked Cowboy out and about in his boots, hat and tightie whities on a sunny but chilly day. (http://www.nakedcowboy.com/ ) Happily Dennie’s name was one of the first called; in fact, there was such a light turnout that everybody won the lottery. Oh, happy day!
We’d already seen IRVING BERLIN’S WHITE CHRISTMAS three times from vantage points so we were happy to admire it from the extremely affordable front row. The sets, costumes and dance numbers were just as beautiful there, and we enjoyed several performances even better up close. And, of course, we were bursting with pride for talented, young Melody. What a great showcase for a ten-year-old! She’s the only child in the show, plays comic scenes with the adult leads, and belts her own musical number!! Bravo!!! New York critics be damned-this is a lovely, crowd-pleasing show.
After paying our respects backstage, we went to dinner with Melody and Dawn. On 9th Avenue near 51st is one of Melody’s favorite spots, Vynl. We were seated at the Curious George table from which we could see many of the doll displays set into the walls. Upon our arrival, I used the Cher bathroom and later removed my contacts in the Elvis bathroom. Yes, it was a vacation full of fun potty stops! The menu was fun and eclectic and my steak salad was delicious. (http://www.vynl-nyc.com/welcome.html)
That evening we finally saw MARY POPPINS at the beautifully restored pastel baroque Amsterdam Theatre. My old friend Laura Shutter (42nd Street at Circa ’21 Dinner Playhouse circa 1987) has been appearing in the ensemble but I couldn’t find her onstage. Unhappily at intermission I retrieved a phone message explaining that she wasn’t on that night because of a neck injury; she said we wouldn’t have recognized her in many of her ensemble costumes anyway. Although this impressive, magical show has been running on Broadway for a long time, it was a very tight performance. The new Mary from London and the new Burt from Australia were both superb. I’m especially happy I saw the spectacular sets since the show will undoubtedly be scaled down for the national tour and subsequent productions.
After the show we headed over to the Laurie Beechman Theatre in the basement of the West Bank Café for The After Party, a free open mic night hosted by cabaret artist Brandon Cutrell. Another new thing! Dennie enjoyed a couple Amstel Lights while I sipped orange juice to soothe my untimely sinus infection; we split a tasty order of guacamole. The evening’s performers included Broadway leading lady Shoshana Bean, cabaret artist Lisa Asher, and jazz singer Spider Saloff.
Saturday, November 29
Dennie spent a couple hours at the Museum of Natural History while I scoped out the tkts booth. We conferred about show selections via cell phone. However, I switched shows after talking to the ticket agent and Dennie was already in the subway heading downtown. Happily I reached him soon after he got up to street level and we had ten minutes to grab slices of broccoli pizza before our matinee.
We weren’t sure we wanted to spend the bucks to see GYPSY on Broadway since we’ve both seen and worked on so many fine productions. But this acclaimed Patti LuPone revival boasts an excellent cast, including the oldest Electra of all time, and direction by Arthur Laurents who wrote its book nearly fifty years ago. Patti is undoubtedly the most spectacular Mama Rose of all times. This is a lavishly produced American classic with an attempt to glean new insights from the book and lyrics. I enjoyed many of the tweaks, but I still think “Have an Eggroll, Mr. Goldstone” will always be a problematic number. I was disappointed that this Broadway production didn’t employ a live dog or lamb--the puppet lamb was just lame.
Immediately after the matinee, we headed to tkts where I stood in line and Dennie added to his collection of Times Square photos. We’d been having such success trying new things in New York that we recklessly decided to do something all the guidebooks warn against--we purchased scalped tickets! The scalper could see that we were nervous so he showed us his ID and explained that he works for a ticket service. We were both eager to see ROAD SHOW, the off-Broadway production of the Sondheim musical formerly known as BOUNCE which we had enjoyed in Chicago. When he bettered his offer, we took the plunge and handed over the cash.
Before heading downtown, we returned to the Amsterdam Theatre where Laura Shutter had organized a holiday craft fair for the Broadway community. We went to the stage door and were ushered to the downstairs lobby by the charming young man who had played Michael Banks the evening before. There I chatted with Laura while Dennie purchased a fruitcake and several cards featuring original photography.
Then we took the subway downtown to NYU and dined at the Famous Cozy Burger N Soup Diner on Broadway just south of 8th Street. I don’t remember ever eating at a Zagat-rated diner before! We both ordered matzoh ball soup which was superb-the matzoh balls were like fluffy dumplings. I also ordered the dolmades. We still had time to wander the streets and especially enjoyed the busy, trendy shops on St. Mark’s Place-I wish my nieces could have been there. I was thrilled to see that the restaurant where I first learned to love hummus and falafel over twenty years ago is still in business!
When it was finally time to take our seats at the Public Theatre, we held our breath hoping that our tickets were legitimate. I’m happy to report we had great seats. This production of ROAD SHOW was very different from the musical comedy BOUNCE at the Goodman. It looks like only about half the earlier score has survived. Five principals and ten ensemble members performed on a unit set against the bare brick walls of the theatre. Everything was sepia tones; the ensemble wore off-white period costumes printed with architectural drawings. We enjoyed the show which is a timely metaphor for America as its eager quest for success becomes an avalanche of greed.
Sunday, November 30
After securing seats for a matinee at tkts, we rendezvoused with dear friends Cindy Cooper (Hutchinson Repertory Theatre New Plays Festival 1983) and Jenny Clarke. They recommended the Delta Grill at 48th and 9th; it features bayou cuisine and live blues music. It was raining so I was delighted that we were seated right by the fireplace! (Note to self: Never take your brown lace ups on vacation-the left one leaks and an icy sopping sock can really ruin your day.) The girls and I ordered breakfast items; Dennie made the wisest choice-a pulled pork po’ boy with sweet potato fries. As always, the dinner conversation and camraderie were topnotch!
That afternoon we saw the slapstick farce BOEING, BOEING. Although it has been a hit in Paris and London since 1960, this was its first Broadway production. Briefly: two actors, four actresses, seven doors. This production was simply but beautifully designed and, although the script sags in places, the performances were uniformly hilarious, especially the stewardesses-understudy Jessica Bogart, replacement Rebecca Gayheart and larger-than-life Missi Pyle. (The last one’s for you, Serafina!)
Back at the tkts booth, we secured seats for our evening show. Then we tromped through the cold rain over to the Westway Diner where we had only a few minutes to devour bowls of soup (chicken rice for me and a thick minestrone for Dennie) and some hot spinach dip.
Longtime readers know that we’re huge fans of Sutton and Hunter Foster, talented and successful Broadway siblings. After we planned this trip, I was delighted to read that Hunter would be in previews for the new drama DUST with Richard Masur who many of you will recognize from Picket Fences, Rhoda and One Day At a Time. This intriguing thriller features five excellent performances. I really liked this classical but contemporary tragedy and appreciated the symmetry of the storytelling.
Since many shows are dark on Sunday night, I had hoped we might run into Hunter’s wife Jen Cody or his sister, both of whom are appearing in previews of SHREK, THE MUSICAL. Once we were seated Dennie said he recognized the back of Jen’s head, even though she was wearing a big, wooly hat. Sure enough when she left her seat at intermission, we confirmed it was her. She came over to talk to someone a couple rows in front of us who turned out to be Sutton! So I was able to chat briefly with Sutton, especially about young Melody who was thrilled when Sutton sought her out at the White Christmas opening night party the week before. Dennie approached Jen whose work we admired in Urinetown, Pajama Game and Shrek and I got to speak to her, too. Fun evening! A sweet ending to the holiday weekend.
Monday, December 1
This was our last day in the city so Dennie headed down to the World Financial Center and the South Street Seaport for some holiday sightseeing. Meanwhile I took the subway to Chelsea to check out potential inexpensive vacation housing. Just west of the historic Chelsea Hotel, I visited Leo House, a hostel run by the Sisters of St. Agnes of Fond du Lac. (http://www.retreatfinder.com/Accommodation/2271.asp ) The building is old but clean and safe-in fact, it reminded me of my college dorm. The staff was friendly and helpful. A double room with shower is only $120.00-a bargain in Manhattan, especially if you have a predilection for lengthy stays. I also visited the Chelsea International Hostel, a far more rustic operation.
While in Chelsea, I checked e-mail at a neighborhood snack shop and found the keyboard nearly impossible to use. On my way uptown I returned to the Jerusalem II for a piece of apple strudel to tide me over until a more substantial meal. It was a beautiful day to sit in Bryant Park and watch the skaters. I made phone contact with Dennie and Dawn and coordinated a rendezvous, and then headed over to Grand Central Station to check out the holiday atmosphere. I never found the seasonal shops I’d read about but had fun looking around. I’d forgotten how many wonderful bakeries are in that terminal. I refrained from gorging myself on more treats--it’s a good thing I don’t travel through there on a daily basis!
Around 1:00 the four of us met in Bryant Park for hot beverages. Poor Melody wanted to skate but Dawn explained the responsibilities of professional actors. Mom really made her point when she pointed out that Melody’s understudy might have to go on! We also checked out the holiday shops there before strolling up to Rockefeller Center. We felt the temperature plunge and watched gray clouds rolling in as we looked at the Saks Christmas windows. After some adult chatter while Melody Wii-ed at the Charmin Restrooms, we headed to Chevy’s Fresh Mex on 42nd Street. There we enjoyed a final meal together at the end of our trip. I ordered salmon tacos; Dennie and Dawn sipped frozen margaritas; we munched on too many nacho chips.
When we finally parted company, Dennie headed back to the Laurie Beechman Theatre to see Christine Pedi’s HOLLY JOLLY CHRISTMAS FOLLY. She is well-known in the theatre community for her performances in various incarnations of Forbidden Broadway; she sang “The 12 Divas of Christmas” in twelve different celebrity voices plucked from a hat-every night a different show! I walked back to Lincoln Center for another CD release concert at Barnes & Noble unaware that I would run into a massive Winter’s Eve celebration. Dennie later told me that the Kevin Bacon band was performing somewhere on the streets.
Singer/songwriter Scott Alan was promoting his new CD, Keys. I’d never heard of him before but took note of the new CD because Sutton Foster sings on it. Both his discs feature vocals by Broadway’s newest, finest voices. Shoshana Bean (Wicked), Titus Burgess (Little Mermaid), Carly Jibson (Hairspray), and Jackie Hoffman (Xanadu) were all featured. This event was standing room only, the songs were enthusiastically received, and I’m now a big fan. Unfortunately B&N had already sold all its copies of Keys so I consoled myself with the earlier CD, Still Dreaming Wide Awake, which I love and recommend to all. A great way to end a vacation! And did I mention free?!