Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake [public post]
i first posted this information a while ago, but i've added some info, modified some wording, and split it into four parts for possible publication in the MHS newsletter. in addition to getting the info out there, i'm posting because i'd welcome any opinions or constructive criticism on wording or content.
[warning: content is a detailed discussion of feeding procedures for pet corn snakes, and may be considered graphic. don't read if you have a weak stomach or are upset by the concept of one animal eating another.]
so without further ado ... Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake!
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part One: Normal Circumstances
This is the first in a series of articles about feeding pet snakes. It is targeted at corn snakes because they are the species that I am most familiar and comfortable with. Much of the information here can be generalized to other species of snakes, but please double-check your facts before doing so - every species has its own set of patterns and preferences.
First things first: there is NO good reason to feed live mice - always feed frozen-thawed. Live mice can fight back, and the resulting injuries and infections can kill your snake. Freezing also kills some of the bacteria the mice might be carrying; and breaks down the cell walls, making them easier to digest. You can buy frozen mice by the dozen; they're cheaper than live, and easier to store. (And sold by MHS!)
Steps to take when feeding, with snakes that are healthy and eating regularly:
- Wash your hands before touching the rodent, between touching the rodent and the snake, and after touching the snake. You don't want the food to smell like human, or your hand to smell like food.
- Feed prey items one to one and a half times the girth of the snake; feed one to two prey items, every 5 - 10 days (first year) or 7 - 14 days (adult). A good guideline for a growing snake: if your snake can comfortably eat two rodents every feeding for a few weeks, it's time to move up to the next size. Pinkies are the smallest, followed by fuzzies, hoppers, adult mice, and weaned rats.
- Feed in the evening, when corns would naturally be hunting. Depending on the size of your rodents, you may need to begin thawing a few hours in advance.
- Thaw mice at or close to room temperature. You may use either a plastic bag placed in warm water (not hot or boiling!), or a plastic container placed about 6 inches under a heat lamp if you're impatient. Never, ever use the microwave - even if the mice don't explode (yes, explode!), the microwave doesn't heat evenly and can leave hot spots.
- Feed in a small, securely closed, opaque container - NOT their cage. It is believed by some (though sometimes hotly debated) that a snake may form associations around feeding practices: if fed in the cage, they may associate the opening of the cage with the appearance of food, or they may associate movement (your hand, the rodent, or cage furnishings) with food. They may also accidentally swallow some of the cage substrate along with the rodent, which can lead to discomfort or impactions. We prefer to stay on the safe side, so we feed our snakes in sterilite containers (cheap tupperware-stuff from target) with holes drilled in the sides and snap-on lids.
- Put paper towels on the bottom of the feeding bins, then add the thawed mice. Wash your hands!
- Take your snake out of the cage. Make sure to bump the cage a bit so they know you're coming, move slowly, and pick them up in the middle of the body - not too close to head or tail. Put the snake in the feeding bin, but don't come between the snake and its food.
- Let your snake eat. Young or shy snakes may not be willing to eat with a person watching, so you may have to cover the container (with a towel, or something similar) or leave the room. In our experience, most well-adjusted corn snakes don't really care, and will happily eat while you watch.
- Let your snake sit for about 20 minutes after the lump has stopped moving down, so they aren't looking for more food.
- Either pick the snake up gently to put them back in the cage, or hold the feeding container in the cage and let them crawl out.
- Don't handle your snake for two days after it has eaten - let the meal digest. Handling too soon can lead to regurgitation, which is very hard on a snake's system. Be aware that a meal will come out the other end anywhere between 5 and 10 days later, depending on temperature and activity level.
Congratulations! If you have a healthy snake that's a good eater, that's really all you'll ever need to know. Stay tuned next month to find out more about common causes of feeding problems, and some ways to address them.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part Two: Environmental Problems
Some snakes are reluctant feeders, and may not eat as often or regularly as they should. There can be many reasons for this, including some that you shouldn't worry about. Most snakes will not eat when in shed, though a few will. Some snakes will stop eating during the winter, even if you don't "cycle" them by changing their lighting or temperature. Males may not eat during breeding season, and females may not eat while getting ready to lay eggs. If you've eliminated those reasons, read on.
Stressed snakes are more susceptible to illness and less likely to have healthy responses. Some ways to cut back on stress to your snake:
- Keep the cage at the right temperatures: 70-75 at the cool end, 80-85 at the warm end; ranges between 65 and 90 degrees are acceptable.
- Keep one snake in each cage - don't house two (or more) together. Snakes are not social animals.
- Keep the cage in a low-traffic part of the house, out of reach of other pets and younger children.
- Stop handling your snake for at least a week before offering food - excess handling can be stressful. Then minimize handling until the snake is eating regularly.
- Make sure the snake has enough places to hide (at least two - one warm, one cool), and plenty of fresh water available.
- Put your cage lights on a timer so the snakes have a day and a night ($4 at a hardware store); some snakes are more sensitive to lighting changes than others.
- Make sure your snake is not dehydrated, sick, or harboring parasites. This means going to see your vet.
Some suggestions that may help "set the mood" for your snake to eat:
- If you already have a light timer and proper temperatures: try lengthening the "day", increasing the heat a little bit, and increasing the humidity a little bit (spray the cage with water from a spray bottle once a day).
- Feed in the evening, when corns would naturally be hunting. Depending on the size of your rodents, you may need to begin thawing a few hours in advance.
- Feed in a small, securely closed, opaque container - not their cage. Using a smaller container or covering the container with a towel may help minimize distractions.
- Try giving your snake all night (8 to 24 hours) to think about eating, and leave it alone. Don't keep "checking in" on it.
- Try offering a smaller item, as it may be less intimidating and easier to digest; for very small baby snakes, try just the head of a pinky.
These are some of the easier feeding problems to address. Next month, we'll increase the challenge, and talk about more ways to tempt a reluctant snake into taking a meal.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part Three: Tempting Reluctant Feeders
You are going through all the correct steps in your feeding regimen. You have made any necessary environmental changes, and seen your vet. If there is still no sign of improvement in your snake's feeding habits, you can try doing different things to the food to make it more appealing to your snake. You should stick to your regular feeding schedule, only offering one food item at a time, and waiting about a week between attempts. These are some of your feeding options, in roughly preferred order:
1 - Frozen-thawed is the preferred regular feeding method; some snakes are scared of moving food; freezing kills bacteria, and helps break down cell walls.
2 - Try giving your snake all night (8 to 24 hours) to think about eating, and leave it alone - don't keep checking on it. Using a smaller container or covering the container with a towel may help minimize distractions.
3 - Try offering a smaller item, as it may be less intimidating and easier to digest; for very small baby snakes, try just the head of a pinky.
4 - Warmed up above room temperature, using warm - not boiling - water, or a heat lamp, to about 90-110 degrees.
5 - Re-frozen and re-thawed - but only re-freeze if the mouse was thawed for less than 2 or 3 hours; the cell walls break down further and the scent becomes stronger.
6 - Washed - rinse the pinky thoroughly in warm water, to wash off any scent.
7 - Scenting with adult mice - after washing the pinky, rub it on an adult mouse, or in the adult mouse's bedding; or keep frozen pinkies in the same bag with frozen adult mice.
8 - Braincasing - take an exacto blade or sturdy pin, stab the mouse's cranium, and squeeze a little fluid out - it's gross, but it works; the extra scent stimulates appetite
9 - Dipped in chicken broth - my vet suggested this one, which works on the same principle as braincasing.
10 - Scenting with anoles - after washing the pinky, rub it on an anole; you can try using just a bit of the anole's skin or blood as well. Lizards are some of the first natural prey items a corn snake would seek in the wild.
11 - Try an alternate kind of prey - frozen-thawed rats, hamsters, or gerbils may be more tempting than mice of the same size. You may also try scenting mice with one of these.
12 - Try using tongs, hemostats, or chopsticks, and gently wiggle the mouse - it's moving prey that can't bite back. Just be careful not to scare your snake; wiggle gently and not too close to the snake's head.
13 - Fresh-killed (most places that sell live feeder rodents will do this for you; it's a good step between eating live to eating thawed)
14 - Live (some snakes like it lively; this is how they'd probably eat in the wild)
15 - Combinations of any of the above
In most cases, an older snake (a year or more in age) will be tempted by one or more of these methods, or will eventually get hungry enough to eat. Once meals are being eaten regularly, you can start weaning the snake off these tricks and back to plain frozen-thawed mice. However, some baby corn snakes will simply refuse to eat - ever. It's sad, but I try to think of these as having been destined to become food for something else in the wild.
Keep an eye on your snake's shape, and try not to worry until they begin to look a little skinny. A healthy corn snake should be shaped like a loaf of bread - the belly should be flat, and the rest of the body should form an upside-down U. If your snake is rounder than that (more O-shaped), or begins to have a visible "waist" at the vent with a "bulging" tail, they are overweight - cut your feeding frequency in half for a few months (or permanently, if your snake is fully grown). If you can see a slightly "sunken" space on either side of the backbone, or the outline of ribs, and you've tried all the feeding tricks above at least three times each, it may be time for more drastic measures. See your vet - again - before moving on.
The next step - and likely the last hope - is force feeding.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences. Neither I nor the MHS will be responsible for the misuse of this information.)
Part Four: Force Feeding
If you have tried everything under the sun to get a stubborn, skinny snake to eat, and you have had no success so far, do not give up hope. Your last resort is force feeding. It is not recommended. Corn snakes can go for many months without a meal, as long as they have fresh water. But if you have to force feed, read on...
Force feeding, when done with patience and all due care and caution, is a two person job. It is very stressful to both you and the snake, and shouldn't be attempted until you've tried everything else - and every combination of suggestions - at least three times. The animal in question should have been evaluated by a vet specializing in herps, to rule out illness and parasites, and to recommend any further action. If you decide that your snake really needs to eat that badly, please speak face-to-face with someone who's done it before, to get their ideas of what works best (or other ideas to try first).
This is how we did it:
Use the smallest frozen-thawed pinkies you can find, while they're squishy but still cool. Find a place for two people to sit comfortably very close together, with bright lighting and a nearby horizontal surface to hold your supplies. We used the bathroom.
I held the snake's body with one hand, and gently pried open the snake's mouth with the other, using my fingernail. Don't use wood, or anything that could catch on the teeth; a credit card would work on a larger snake (other options include a plastic or metal spoon, or a stiff piece of paper or cardboard, such as a business card or part of a cereal box). My partner dipped the pinky in vegetable oil, so it would slide down easier; then he poked the nose of the pinky into the snake's open mouth. When the pinky was in place, he took hold of the snake's body; I used the hand that had been in the mouth to pinch the snake's mouth closed (gently!) over the head of the pinky - one finger on top of the head, thumb under the lower jaw.
While he held the body, I used my free hand to push the pinky in - using both my fingers and a narrow plastic chopstick - while maintaining the progress by keeping the other hand pinched gently on the top and bottom of the snake's head. Be very careful not to jab the snake's mouth, and not to push too hard on the pinky's belly (pop = ick). This will take time and patience. Work the pinky down little by little, until all that's left outside the snake's mouth is back feet and tail. I put down the chopstick, and used my free hand to gently squeeze and push the pinky down toward the snake's stomach, until about an inch of neck is visible above the "lump" of pinky.
At this point, take your fingers off the jaws, stop pushing the pinky down, and give the snake a few minutes to start swallowing on its own. If the mouse starts to come back up (and it can happen very fast!), clamp the jaws again, and push the lump down to the snake's stomach - approximately the middle of the body. Continue to hold the snake gently. When the lump has been in the stomach for a minute or two, and the snake is flicking its tongue, put the snake *gently* back in its cage and let it rest for *at least* five days.
Go have a relaxing drink, congratulate yourselves, and hope for the best.
You should wait at least two weeks after force feeding to offer food again. If a voluntary meal is refused, wait at least 5 days before attempting to force feed again. In the event of regurgitation, wait at least three or four weeks for the snake's digestive system to heal itself before offering food again.
There are commercial products available for force feeding. As one example, the "Pinky Pump" is essentially a sturdy syringe which in one step will mash the pinky and inject it into the snake's throat. If you had a way to mash the pinky yourself, you could theoretically use a syringe with no needle to achieve the same result; you may even be able to do it without a partner. I have not tried either of these methods, so all I can tell you about them is to be careful - and, if at all possible, to have someone that is familiar with them give you a hands-on lesson in their use.
Let's hope that you never have to use this particular set of information, and that you will take every possible precaution beforehand if you do find yourself in a situation where it may be necessary. Now you know everything you ever wanted to know - or more than you ever wanted to know - about feeding your corn snake.
[warning: content is a detailed discussion of feeding procedures for pet corn snakes, and may be considered graphic. don't read if you have a weak stomach or are upset by the concept of one animal eating another.]
so without further ado ... Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake!
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part One: Normal Circumstances
This is the first in a series of articles about feeding pet snakes. It is targeted at corn snakes because they are the species that I am most familiar and comfortable with. Much of the information here can be generalized to other species of snakes, but please double-check your facts before doing so - every species has its own set of patterns and preferences.
First things first: there is NO good reason to feed live mice - always feed frozen-thawed. Live mice can fight back, and the resulting injuries and infections can kill your snake. Freezing also kills some of the bacteria the mice might be carrying; and breaks down the cell walls, making them easier to digest. You can buy frozen mice by the dozen; they're cheaper than live, and easier to store. (And sold by MHS!)
Steps to take when feeding, with snakes that are healthy and eating regularly:
- Wash your hands before touching the rodent, between touching the rodent and the snake, and after touching the snake. You don't want the food to smell like human, or your hand to smell like food.
- Feed prey items one to one and a half times the girth of the snake; feed one to two prey items, every 5 - 10 days (first year) or 7 - 14 days (adult). A good guideline for a growing snake: if your snake can comfortably eat two rodents every feeding for a few weeks, it's time to move up to the next size. Pinkies are the smallest, followed by fuzzies, hoppers, adult mice, and weaned rats.
- Feed in the evening, when corns would naturally be hunting. Depending on the size of your rodents, you may need to begin thawing a few hours in advance.
- Thaw mice at or close to room temperature. You may use either a plastic bag placed in warm water (not hot or boiling!), or a plastic container placed about 6 inches under a heat lamp if you're impatient. Never, ever use the microwave - even if the mice don't explode (yes, explode!), the microwave doesn't heat evenly and can leave hot spots.
- Feed in a small, securely closed, opaque container - NOT their cage. It is believed by some (though sometimes hotly debated) that a snake may form associations around feeding practices: if fed in the cage, they may associate the opening of the cage with the appearance of food, or they may associate movement (your hand, the rodent, or cage furnishings) with food. They may also accidentally swallow some of the cage substrate along with the rodent, which can lead to discomfort or impactions. We prefer to stay on the safe side, so we feed our snakes in sterilite containers (cheap tupperware-stuff from target) with holes drilled in the sides and snap-on lids.
- Put paper towels on the bottom of the feeding bins, then add the thawed mice. Wash your hands!
- Take your snake out of the cage. Make sure to bump the cage a bit so they know you're coming, move slowly, and pick them up in the middle of the body - not too close to head or tail. Put the snake in the feeding bin, but don't come between the snake and its food.
- Let your snake eat. Young or shy snakes may not be willing to eat with a person watching, so you may have to cover the container (with a towel, or something similar) or leave the room. In our experience, most well-adjusted corn snakes don't really care, and will happily eat while you watch.
- Let your snake sit for about 20 minutes after the lump has stopped moving down, so they aren't looking for more food.
- Either pick the snake up gently to put them back in the cage, or hold the feeding container in the cage and let them crawl out.
- Don't handle your snake for two days after it has eaten - let the meal digest. Handling too soon can lead to regurgitation, which is very hard on a snake's system. Be aware that a meal will come out the other end anywhere between 5 and 10 days later, depending on temperature and activity level.
Congratulations! If you have a healthy snake that's a good eater, that's really all you'll ever need to know. Stay tuned next month to find out more about common causes of feeding problems, and some ways to address them.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part Two: Environmental Problems
Some snakes are reluctant feeders, and may not eat as often or regularly as they should. There can be many reasons for this, including some that you shouldn't worry about. Most snakes will not eat when in shed, though a few will. Some snakes will stop eating during the winter, even if you don't "cycle" them by changing their lighting or temperature. Males may not eat during breeding season, and females may not eat while getting ready to lay eggs. If you've eliminated those reasons, read on.
Stressed snakes are more susceptible to illness and less likely to have healthy responses. Some ways to cut back on stress to your snake:
- Keep the cage at the right temperatures: 70-75 at the cool end, 80-85 at the warm end; ranges between 65 and 90 degrees are acceptable.
- Keep one snake in each cage - don't house two (or more) together. Snakes are not social animals.
- Keep the cage in a low-traffic part of the house, out of reach of other pets and younger children.
- Stop handling your snake for at least a week before offering food - excess handling can be stressful. Then minimize handling until the snake is eating regularly.
- Make sure the snake has enough places to hide (at least two - one warm, one cool), and plenty of fresh water available.
- Put your cage lights on a timer so the snakes have a day and a night ($4 at a hardware store); some snakes are more sensitive to lighting changes than others.
- Make sure your snake is not dehydrated, sick, or harboring parasites. This means going to see your vet.
Some suggestions that may help "set the mood" for your snake to eat:
- If you already have a light timer and proper temperatures: try lengthening the "day", increasing the heat a little bit, and increasing the humidity a little bit (spray the cage with water from a spray bottle once a day).
- Feed in the evening, when corns would naturally be hunting. Depending on the size of your rodents, you may need to begin thawing a few hours in advance.
- Feed in a small, securely closed, opaque container - not their cage. Using a smaller container or covering the container with a towel may help minimize distractions.
- Try giving your snake all night (8 to 24 hours) to think about eating, and leave it alone. Don't keep "checking in" on it.
- Try offering a smaller item, as it may be less intimidating and easier to digest; for very small baby snakes, try just the head of a pinky.
These are some of the easier feeding problems to address. Next month, we'll increase the challenge, and talk about more ways to tempt a reluctant snake into taking a meal.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences.)
Part Three: Tempting Reluctant Feeders
You are going through all the correct steps in your feeding regimen. You have made any necessary environmental changes, and seen your vet. If there is still no sign of improvement in your snake's feeding habits, you can try doing different things to the food to make it more appealing to your snake. You should stick to your regular feeding schedule, only offering one food item at a time, and waiting about a week between attempts. These are some of your feeding options, in roughly preferred order:
1 - Frozen-thawed is the preferred regular feeding method; some snakes are scared of moving food; freezing kills bacteria, and helps break down cell walls.
2 - Try giving your snake all night (8 to 24 hours) to think about eating, and leave it alone - don't keep checking on it. Using a smaller container or covering the container with a towel may help minimize distractions.
3 - Try offering a smaller item, as it may be less intimidating and easier to digest; for very small baby snakes, try just the head of a pinky.
4 - Warmed up above room temperature, using warm - not boiling - water, or a heat lamp, to about 90-110 degrees.
5 - Re-frozen and re-thawed - but only re-freeze if the mouse was thawed for less than 2 or 3 hours; the cell walls break down further and the scent becomes stronger.
6 - Washed - rinse the pinky thoroughly in warm water, to wash off any scent.
7 - Scenting with adult mice - after washing the pinky, rub it on an adult mouse, or in the adult mouse's bedding; or keep frozen pinkies in the same bag with frozen adult mice.
8 - Braincasing - take an exacto blade or sturdy pin, stab the mouse's cranium, and squeeze a little fluid out - it's gross, but it works; the extra scent stimulates appetite
9 - Dipped in chicken broth - my vet suggested this one, which works on the same principle as braincasing.
10 - Scenting with anoles - after washing the pinky, rub it on an anole; you can try using just a bit of the anole's skin or blood as well. Lizards are some of the first natural prey items a corn snake would seek in the wild.
11 - Try an alternate kind of prey - frozen-thawed rats, hamsters, or gerbils may be more tempting than mice of the same size. You may also try scenting mice with one of these.
12 - Try using tongs, hemostats, or chopsticks, and gently wiggle the mouse - it's moving prey that can't bite back. Just be careful not to scare your snake; wiggle gently and not too close to the snake's head.
13 - Fresh-killed (most places that sell live feeder rodents will do this for you; it's a good step between eating live to eating thawed)
14 - Live (some snakes like it lively; this is how they'd probably eat in the wild)
15 - Combinations of any of the above
In most cases, an older snake (a year or more in age) will be tempted by one or more of these methods, or will eventually get hungry enough to eat. Once meals are being eaten regularly, you can start weaning the snake off these tricks and back to plain frozen-thawed mice. However, some baby corn snakes will simply refuse to eat - ever. It's sad, but I try to think of these as having been destined to become food for something else in the wild.
Keep an eye on your snake's shape, and try not to worry until they begin to look a little skinny. A healthy corn snake should be shaped like a loaf of bread - the belly should be flat, and the rest of the body should form an upside-down U. If your snake is rounder than that (more O-shaped), or begins to have a visible "waist" at the vent with a "bulging" tail, they are overweight - cut your feeding frequency in half for a few months (or permanently, if your snake is fully grown). If you can see a slightly "sunken" space on either side of the backbone, or the outline of ribs, and you've tried all the feeding tricks above at least three times each, it may be time for more drastic measures. See your vet - again - before moving on.
The next step - and likely the last hope - is force feeding.
Everything you ever wanted to know about feeding your corn snake
- Christina Danathar
(I am not a professional or a veterinarian. This information comes only from my own research and experiences. Neither I nor the MHS will be responsible for the misuse of this information.)
Part Four: Force Feeding
If you have tried everything under the sun to get a stubborn, skinny snake to eat, and you have had no success so far, do not give up hope. Your last resort is force feeding. It is not recommended. Corn snakes can go for many months without a meal, as long as they have fresh water. But if you have to force feed, read on...
Force feeding, when done with patience and all due care and caution, is a two person job. It is very stressful to both you and the snake, and shouldn't be attempted until you've tried everything else - and every combination of suggestions - at least three times. The animal in question should have been evaluated by a vet specializing in herps, to rule out illness and parasites, and to recommend any further action. If you decide that your snake really needs to eat that badly, please speak face-to-face with someone who's done it before, to get their ideas of what works best (or other ideas to try first).
This is how we did it:
Use the smallest frozen-thawed pinkies you can find, while they're squishy but still cool. Find a place for two people to sit comfortably very close together, with bright lighting and a nearby horizontal surface to hold your supplies. We used the bathroom.
I held the snake's body with one hand, and gently pried open the snake's mouth with the other, using my fingernail. Don't use wood, or anything that could catch on the teeth; a credit card would work on a larger snake (other options include a plastic or metal spoon, or a stiff piece of paper or cardboard, such as a business card or part of a cereal box). My partner dipped the pinky in vegetable oil, so it would slide down easier; then he poked the nose of the pinky into the snake's open mouth. When the pinky was in place, he took hold of the snake's body; I used the hand that had been in the mouth to pinch the snake's mouth closed (gently!) over the head of the pinky - one finger on top of the head, thumb under the lower jaw.
While he held the body, I used my free hand to push the pinky in - using both my fingers and a narrow plastic chopstick - while maintaining the progress by keeping the other hand pinched gently on the top and bottom of the snake's head. Be very careful not to jab the snake's mouth, and not to push too hard on the pinky's belly (pop = ick). This will take time and patience. Work the pinky down little by little, until all that's left outside the snake's mouth is back feet and tail. I put down the chopstick, and used my free hand to gently squeeze and push the pinky down toward the snake's stomach, until about an inch of neck is visible above the "lump" of pinky.
At this point, take your fingers off the jaws, stop pushing the pinky down, and give the snake a few minutes to start swallowing on its own. If the mouse starts to come back up (and it can happen very fast!), clamp the jaws again, and push the lump down to the snake's stomach - approximately the middle of the body. Continue to hold the snake gently. When the lump has been in the stomach for a minute or two, and the snake is flicking its tongue, put the snake *gently* back in its cage and let it rest for *at least* five days.
Go have a relaxing drink, congratulate yourselves, and hope for the best.
You should wait at least two weeks after force feeding to offer food again. If a voluntary meal is refused, wait at least 5 days before attempting to force feed again. In the event of regurgitation, wait at least three or four weeks for the snake's digestive system to heal itself before offering food again.
There are commercial products available for force feeding. As one example, the "Pinky Pump" is essentially a sturdy syringe which in one step will mash the pinky and inject it into the snake's throat. If you had a way to mash the pinky yourself, you could theoretically use a syringe with no needle to achieve the same result; you may even be able to do it without a partner. I have not tried either of these methods, so all I can tell you about them is to be careful - and, if at all possible, to have someone that is familiar with them give you a hands-on lesson in their use.
Let's hope that you never have to use this particular set of information, and that you will take every possible precaution beforehand if you do find yourself in a situation where it may be necessary. Now you know everything you ever wanted to know - or more than you ever wanted to know - about feeding your corn snake.