Rome, part 3 + Vatican
I really wanted to get to a church called St. Peter in Chains. There is a Michelangelo sculpture of Moses that I've heard much about located there. However...
Many churches that are popular destinations (actually, even some museums) have staggered hours. For example, open 9am to Noon-ish and then 3 or 4 pm to 6 or 7pm. I made a couple of tries to get to this church and always my travels seemed to get me there durin the 'closed' hours. ::pout::
On the bright side, I did manage to get to San Clemente - well worth getting a bit lost along the way. Maps are not always to be trusted. ::nods wisely::
San Clemente is an amazing place.
It looks like just another church, but it is just the top layer.
Inside, the artwork is amazing - as is the case with pretty much any church I entered. While this 12th Century basilica houses great treasures, it is also an active parish. There was even a board with mass times posted.
But what's above ground is only part of the story. This basilica is built on top of a 4th Century basilica, which in turn is built on a 1st Century Mithric Temple. Photography underground is not permitted - and the lighting is pretty bad anyway. However, there are postcards:
I enjoyed poking around down there. It was eerie and strange and exciting. And I could hear water, like a stream rushing. I read later that there is also another level further down, a layer dating even further back - as far as 64A.D. - containing the remains of buildings destroyed by Nero's fire. And this is where the stream is. The excavations have only been going on since the late 19th Century, so there will be lots more to discover. And there is much restoration work going on as well. Ancient frescoes are being given new life, being carefully re-created/restored.
To say I found all of this to be very cool would be a massive understatement.
Another really, really cool spot is something I stumbled across quite by chance. I'd heard about this place, but all the books said it was closed for restoration and there was no word on when it would re-open. I saw a church near the cafe I frequented and finally wandered over to take a look - there were LOTS of stairs to get up there. The church was - is - called the Church of the Immaculate Conception. The big draw however is the crypt of the Capuchin monks.
It is not your typical resting place for bones. Nope. One of the monks, long ago, got creative. I refer to it as Baroque meets the Addams Family. No photography allowed, but I did get a few postcards.
This is looking up at one of the archways.
This is one of the actual resting places. It's behind wire so no one can pick up a 'souvenir'. ::shudder::
~~~ ~ ~~~
My visit to Vatican City - which is another country located within Rome - was only a few hours in the afternoon. It was long enough, but at the same time I wanted more time to wander. My tour took in the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's.
Getting into the museum meant a security check - bags through x-ray and people through metal detectors. This is where the biggest delay is getting in. It depends how many people are trying to get through at any given time. We were pretty lucky. For us, the biggest delay was getting our headsets for the tour. The guide had the mic and we had the earphones. It took some doing to get us all set up because someone forgot to call ahead and let them know a tour group was coming through.
Once in, however, we crossed the Courtyard of the Pinecone (a large bronze pinecone sculpture sits at one end). In the middle was a modern piece called "Sphere Within Sphere" - one of the few modern pieces were were to see. Actually, the only modern piece...
We passed a myriad of sculptures, and alas, I don't have the names or artists of all of them. But I did get some photographs. Technically, photography without flash was permitted, but I didn't get very good results anywhere except with the sculptures. I love sculpture and could happily have spent a few hours in that section - although the tapestries and maps were quite amazing in their own right.
So, here is one from an inner courtyard:
And from the room of the muses:
This one is also from that room I believe, but I'm not quite sure what she'd be inspiring one to...
I see this and think of the Bible story of Judith who killed the enemy general and cut off his head.
Crowds were everywhere...
In the museum itself, and...
...in the area between the Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's. There is a line to go up the Dome at St. Peter's, a line to go down into the crypts, a line to get into the Museum and I wouldn't be surprised if there was a line for the toilets.
The Sistine Chapel is attached to the Museum. And it is PACKED with bodies. Living ones, I mean. The crush of people is a little unnerving. Since there are only a few benches along the walls, one really has no place to brace to look up at the ceiling. But there is also art on the walls.
Michelangelo's "Last Judgement" is breathtaking. And apparently filled with little commentaries and in-jokes. For example, certain people who annoyed him were added as the damned, much to their mortification says our guide. There is an attempt to maintain silence here, as it is a place of worship. Every so often there'd be their amplified 'Silenzio' or a 'shhhh'. But there was always a steady hum of lowered voices and whispers.
St. Peter's was - is - awesome. Beyond impressive. Sadly, there were chairs set up so we couldn't walk around too much. I did see the Pieta:
sadly, only from a distance and behind plexiglas. Someone tried to destroy it some years ago and once it had been restored it was put behind glass. Which is sad, really. Sculptures are meant to be seen up close and to be touched - although that really isn't encouraged in museums! LOL
The sheer scale of everything is immense. This made getting decent pictures a challenge.
Eventually I just gave up rather than continue to waste batteries.
I've been asked by several people how it felt to be at The Vatican, being Catholic and all. I have to say that I was impressed by the art, and awed by the scale and even the richness, but did not feel an emotional connection. As some of you know I have, um, let's say issues with the Magisterium (the authority), dissenting in quite a few places from official teaching. So, perhaps that was a barrier. On the other hand, I think the scale of everything - it's f-ing HUGE - was a barrier as well. It did not feel spiritual, but I certainly knew I was in a place of earthly power.
::shrug:: No regrets about going, however. It just wasn't a spiritual moment for me.
As soon as the rest of my pix are uploaded, we'll leave Rome and head for Assisi, Florence and Venice.
Rome, part 1
Rome, part 2
Pompeii
Comments and questions always welcome. Thanks for indulging me as I ramble about my, well, rambles.
This way to Assisi
::blows kisses::
Many churches that are popular destinations (actually, even some museums) have staggered hours. For example, open 9am to Noon-ish and then 3 or 4 pm to 6 or 7pm. I made a couple of tries to get to this church and always my travels seemed to get me there durin the 'closed' hours. ::pout::
On the bright side, I did manage to get to San Clemente - well worth getting a bit lost along the way. Maps are not always to be trusted. ::nods wisely::
San Clemente is an amazing place.
It looks like just another church, but it is just the top layer.
Inside, the artwork is amazing - as is the case with pretty much any church I entered. While this 12th Century basilica houses great treasures, it is also an active parish. There was even a board with mass times posted.
But what's above ground is only part of the story. This basilica is built on top of a 4th Century basilica, which in turn is built on a 1st Century Mithric Temple. Photography underground is not permitted - and the lighting is pretty bad anyway. However, there are postcards:
I enjoyed poking around down there. It was eerie and strange and exciting. And I could hear water, like a stream rushing. I read later that there is also another level further down, a layer dating even further back - as far as 64A.D. - containing the remains of buildings destroyed by Nero's fire. And this is where the stream is. The excavations have only been going on since the late 19th Century, so there will be lots more to discover. And there is much restoration work going on as well. Ancient frescoes are being given new life, being carefully re-created/restored.
To say I found all of this to be very cool would be a massive understatement.
Another really, really cool spot is something I stumbled across quite by chance. I'd heard about this place, but all the books said it was closed for restoration and there was no word on when it would re-open. I saw a church near the cafe I frequented and finally wandered over to take a look - there were LOTS of stairs to get up there. The church was - is - called the Church of the Immaculate Conception. The big draw however is the crypt of the Capuchin monks.
It is not your typical resting place for bones. Nope. One of the monks, long ago, got creative. I refer to it as Baroque meets the Addams Family. No photography allowed, but I did get a few postcards.
This is looking up at one of the archways.
This is one of the actual resting places. It's behind wire so no one can pick up a 'souvenir'. ::shudder::
~~~ ~ ~~~
My visit to Vatican City - which is another country located within Rome - was only a few hours in the afternoon. It was long enough, but at the same time I wanted more time to wander. My tour took in the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's.
Getting into the museum meant a security check - bags through x-ray and people through metal detectors. This is where the biggest delay is getting in. It depends how many people are trying to get through at any given time. We were pretty lucky. For us, the biggest delay was getting our headsets for the tour. The guide had the mic and we had the earphones. It took some doing to get us all set up because someone forgot to call ahead and let them know a tour group was coming through.
Once in, however, we crossed the Courtyard of the Pinecone (a large bronze pinecone sculpture sits at one end). In the middle was a modern piece called "Sphere Within Sphere" - one of the few modern pieces were were to see. Actually, the only modern piece...
We passed a myriad of sculptures, and alas, I don't have the names or artists of all of them. But I did get some photographs. Technically, photography without flash was permitted, but I didn't get very good results anywhere except with the sculptures. I love sculpture and could happily have spent a few hours in that section - although the tapestries and maps were quite amazing in their own right.
So, here is one from an inner courtyard:
And from the room of the muses:
This one is also from that room I believe, but I'm not quite sure what she'd be inspiring one to...
I see this and think of the Bible story of Judith who killed the enemy general and cut off his head.
Crowds were everywhere...
In the museum itself, and...
...in the area between the Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's. There is a line to go up the Dome at St. Peter's, a line to go down into the crypts, a line to get into the Museum and I wouldn't be surprised if there was a line for the toilets.
The Sistine Chapel is attached to the Museum. And it is PACKED with bodies. Living ones, I mean. The crush of people is a little unnerving. Since there are only a few benches along the walls, one really has no place to brace to look up at the ceiling. But there is also art on the walls.
Michelangelo's "Last Judgement" is breathtaking. And apparently filled with little commentaries and in-jokes. For example, certain people who annoyed him were added as the damned, much to their mortification says our guide. There is an attempt to maintain silence here, as it is a place of worship. Every so often there'd be their amplified 'Silenzio' or a 'shhhh'. But there was always a steady hum of lowered voices and whispers.
St. Peter's was - is - awesome. Beyond impressive. Sadly, there were chairs set up so we couldn't walk around too much. I did see the Pieta:
sadly, only from a distance and behind plexiglas. Someone tried to destroy it some years ago and once it had been restored it was put behind glass. Which is sad, really. Sculptures are meant to be seen up close and to be touched - although that really isn't encouraged in museums! LOL
The sheer scale of everything is immense. This made getting decent pictures a challenge.
Eventually I just gave up rather than continue to waste batteries.
I've been asked by several people how it felt to be at The Vatican, being Catholic and all. I have to say that I was impressed by the art, and awed by the scale and even the richness, but did not feel an emotional connection. As some of you know I have, um, let's say issues with the Magisterium (the authority), dissenting in quite a few places from official teaching. So, perhaps that was a barrier. On the other hand, I think the scale of everything - it's f-ing HUGE - was a barrier as well. It did not feel spiritual, but I certainly knew I was in a place of earthly power.
::shrug:: No regrets about going, however. It just wasn't a spiritual moment for me.
As soon as the rest of my pix are uploaded, we'll leave Rome and head for Assisi, Florence and Venice.
Rome, part 1
Rome, part 2
Pompeii
Comments and questions always welcome. Thanks for indulging me as I ramble about my, well, rambles.
This way to Assisi
::blows kisses::