Kanchanaburi

Dec 10, 2006 11:45

After the two days I spent in Bangkok, I craved a more rural setting. Due to its close proximity (130kms west), Kanchanaburi seemed like a good starting point. Not only did I want to try my hand at some Thai cooking but a large slice of the horrors of WWII resided there.

Thai cooking was my first activity in town. My guesthouse offered a one day course which apparently was supposed to be good according to my 'trusty' guidebook. I had hoped to meet fellow travellers but only one Dutch man decided to join in the fun.

Our class was going to be cancelled but as the teacher couldn't find the two of us, an abridged version was undertaken (no discount provided). I learnt how to make three different curries, pad thai, soup and thai fried rice. At the conclusion we were able to feast on all our creations but it was too much food for two people, so it went unfinished.

The teacher was an eccentric but glamorous Thai man. He had long silver nails, a denim mini skirt, crop top and sandals with floral design. The man was a fan of strutting about and scoffing when we made a mistake and liked to tell us off. It was very amusing and while the 'course' was more of a 'quick glance', I found the experience satisfying.

As the cooking course didn't fulfill my social requirements I decided to go on a one day tour of the surrounding sights. Public transport seemed to much of a hassle. Alas, once again I was dissapointed as the only people were a New Zealand couple and German couple. Nobody was too interested in chit-chat but it was a good day.

Our first stop was the Erawan National Parl, which while being one of the most visited in Thailand, is home to a large sever-tiered waterfall, logically named, Erawan Falls. We were left to our own devices, so I hiked to the upper-most tier, viweing the rest along the way. The water was a lvoely, crystal blue and weather warm but I opted not to swim. The waterfalls were nice but I wasn't that impressed.

Next stop was of historical importance; to the Hellfire Pas and memorial museum. After the fall of most of South-East Asia to the Japanese during WWII, plans to conquer India were devised. To allow this though, the Japenese needed an alternative supply route to the heavily bombed sea routes from Japan to Burma.

A plan was devised to link the rail networks of Thailand and Burma through the mountainous regions of the Kanchanaburi province. Through this conquest, the Japanese had taken many Prisoners of War (POWs), along the way. The majority were of British, Dutch and Australian origin.

POWs were transported up from camps around the continent, usually in horribly cramped conditions for days without food or the ability to relieve themselves ( a large amount came from Changi). They were then put to work on various areas of the railway. Around 60,000 POWs were used in addition to over 250,000 Asian labourers.

Conditions were harsh with limited supplies, lack of medical care, hot and humid conditions and all taking place in a diseased infested area. In total, 12,399 POWs died, which the Japanese recorded bvut the nuber of Asian labourers who perished reamins unknown. All of this is why many Allied soliders labelled it 'The Death Railway'.

Our walk took us to one of the most treacherous sections of the construction, where British and Australian POWs worked day and night to cut through solid rock. The name 'Hellfire Pass' originates from the glow of torches and dynamite explosions at night time. It was a moving experience to walk through the pass and the rock face is still strewn with various tools.

A memorial musuem was located at the top of the pass and provided a more detailed account of the gruesome chapter of WWII. Sections of the railway are still used today and we were able to ride a train for three stops across some bridges and track, accompanied by some stunning river views. With the hoarde of tourists it did become a bit tedious though.

After a full day of touring we were taken back to Kanchanaburi. Having now been on the tour though I had a better context to view the large Allied graveyards that lay within Kanchanburi's boundries. There was also a large bridge in town - Death Railway Bridge - that still remains across the River Kwai. Another musueum on the topic was also located in town, so overall, it was a very educational visit.

On a lighter not, I managed to go to a tiger conservation centre and see tigers up real clost. I wouldn't mind a pet tiger. It was some light-hearted fun and after my heavy night of drinking with an English couple, a good activity for a groggy head.
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