Dae in Japan: All the miles that I stacked up to see the Nihon Sankei

Nov 08, 2014 14:46

Aaah, I can finally sit down and start writing about me and my adventure with the Three Most Scenic Views of Japan!

This list concerning the most beautiful sceneries of Japan was compiled in 1643 by the monk Hayashi Razan, the advisor and tutor of the first four Tokugawa shoguns.

Like the average gaijin, I knew nothing about them, the always useful Teap enlightened me when I mentioned the wish to visit Miyajima.
Since I would be staying in Kyoto, she told me to visit Amanohashidate as it was close-by, and in case to add Matsushima too, since I owned a Japan Rail Pass, so to get to see all the Nihon Sankei, something that every Japanese should see at least once in their life.

It sounded like a plan!
Of course I'd face every local challenge and prevail with my awesome gaijinity!

In the end I did get to see all the three views, but it's a pity that, because of my lack of knowledge and time (and physical strenght XD), I had to give up on some attractions of the cities that I visited, even some important spots that really intrigued me (like the Daisho-in on top of Mount Misen at Miyajima)...
At least I had the satisfaction to see some stunning views that, apparently, most of Japanese people remember to see only in their old days D:

But let's start this damn post already.

The first spot that I wished to see was, of course, my darling Itsukushima (popularly known as "Miyajima", that translates as "the Island of the Temple"), an island located in Hiroshima bay, famous for its temples and its huge red torii.

I was really excited as I got to ride for the first time a Shinkansen on the "West Japan" line∼

It was a cute Sakura train from Kyoto Station!

I arrived to Hiroshima safely, but since I was focused on Miyajima I neglected to visit the city... To "make up" for my superficiality, I decided to ride a streetcar to the ferry terminal, to get at least a vibe of Hiroshima.



We passed through the Heiwa Koen, I got to take the shitty picture above of the A-Dome (on the left!)... Sorry, I wasn't fast enough to take a proper picture! Sure it was impressive, even if as an Italian I'm quite used to see ruins in-between modern buildings ._.;

Once I got off to reach the ferry terminal, I noticed how I entered a heavy touristic spot... It was really cool, though!





No idea about the three princesses above.
But I suspect that they may be the three Munakata Goddess, to which the Itsukushima Jinja is dedicated... Maybe?

I got on a JR ferry-boat, and saluted Hiroshima behind me...



--The legendary torii was already visible during our approach to the island!
--Of course the ferry-boat made sure to sail so to grant us the chance to take nice pictures XD

Once I reached the banks of the island, I made sure to take the required pictures to celebrate my "Scenic Task":

The second thing that I did was getting to buy those lovely momiji manju, a "specialty" of Hiroshima, sweets shaped as maple leaves:

And third, I got wary of the deers:

I have really bad memories of the deers of Nara, but these one were indeed less bothering and spoiled... In Miyajima is forbidden to feed them, so beware!

Before reaching for the Itsukushima Temple's precints, I had to walk across your typical Japanese shopping alley:

It's been a fun walk, where I got to learn something about both Miyajima and Hiroshima.

My awe was ABSOLUTE in front of a machine making momiji-manju!! --I WANT ONE!!


I'm not a fan of Gintama, but I found this very fun:

Everyone in the Shinsengumi is eating momiji-manju, how cute XD

One thing that you'll get to see everywhere around, is the celebration of rice scoops:



The story said that a buddhist monk named Seishin once dreamed of Benzaiten showing him a lute in a strange shape, reminding him of a spoon.
The morning after he taught people how to make this "magical" shamoji, and thus was how modern rice scoops were invented.
Since then wooden scoops are associated with Hiroshima, and are sold as good luck items and souvenirs.

Another "big thing" associated with the island is the name of Taira-no-Kiyomori, a famous samurai of the Heian period, the first samurai to get administrative power in Japan.

It's said that he was used to visit the shrine on the island and that he contribuited to rebuild it in 1168, enstablishing its actual design, as if floating on water during high tide.
It's thanks to him that Itsukushima shrine became such an important shrine, as it got the attention of the Imperial Court.
Grateful to the attention, the city of Hiroshima based its mascotte on this historical figure, creating Hiroshima Kiyomori:

Of course, I had to give my contribution too:

I'm really sorry for the quality of the pictures, but it was a shockingly sunny day, so whenever I was facing the sun, it raped my camera >_>; !

Anyway, besides these interesting thing, the VERY first thing that you will notice once in Miyajima, it THE TERRIBLE SMELL OF GRILLED OYSTERS:

They are another local delicacy, and you can find tones of omiyage about them in all kind of versions:

They are usually served grilled or fried.
The smell is really REVOLTING, but the flavour is not that bad! I had the chance to try the fried kind in onigiri format from an ekiben bought at Hiroshima Station once I got back from Kyoto:


Well, I finally get to reach the gate of the Itsukushima Jinja!

Finally, a good look at the torii :D

From there I could spot kids playing on the beach. Apparently collecting seashells from the banks is considered a good omen, and part of the touristic traditions of the island:

--And finally, a thousand pictures that need no comment:
























Now the proper tourist would go to on top of Mount Misen to see the beautiful buddhist temple over there, wait for the low tide and walk his way to the torii, but I wasn't really up for the task D':

So, I just lazied it out at Momijidani Park:









I found an interesting spot where to munch at my momiji manju, and I enjoyed the wild view and clear air.




At this point I felt a little guilty for leaving out the amazing Buddhist tradition of the island, so I decided to take a tour of the town to look at the temples along the so-called Yamanobe no Komichi, the "Old Path of the Mountain Neighborhood".

It looked like an easy trail at first, then I got somewhere lost in the freaking mountains, and I rushed back to the more "touristic spots", grateful that I made it back as in one piece to climb on the first ferry-boat back to Hiroshima!
--I liked to think that it was Kiyomori's ghost getting the hots for my beautiful soul trying to capture me in the woods to make of me his immortal gaijin concubine ♥ but the truth is that I'm a lazy, flaccid otaku with zero stamina and no sense of orientation. --How pitiful T_T;

The next day I was up for another Sankei adventure!
This time my goal was the beatiful slice of beach covered with pines of Amanohashidate, "The Bridge to the Sky".

To reach this location known as "the Sea of Kyoto", I had to take the trains of the KTR, not fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but at least I had the chance to jump on one of those cute touristic trains!



This was the Aomatsu, and the ride across mountains, woods and rural locations was quite suggestive, if infinitely slow.

I felt a bit lost once I got off the station, but fortunately I managed to recognize some directions to the beach.
To get there I got through the Chiounji:



And then crossed the revolving bridge:



It's said that if you see the bridge turning, you're lucky... I saw it turning two times in a row! I must be extra lucky, then XD

Once I reached the beach, I faced a problem.
I really wanted to see the "Hiryukan" view on the opposite mountain to the one that I was headed to from there, but I had no idea of how to get there, as the only directions that I found headed to damn Takamatsu Park ;_; !
Plus, the suggestion that I got from the people there, was to take a boat to reach for the opposite side of sandbar, or rent a bike, and bike across it.
Since I am an idiot, I decided to give up on the view from Mount Monju and STROLL across the sandbar. I thought that it wasn't such a great task, but it was a over 3 Kms long T_T;



--YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH THIS FREAKING WALK TIRED ME OUT!!!
I had to stop every now and then to CATCH MY BREATH, as groups of old people passed me cheerfully T_T

Though, the walk was very suggestive!
There are various featured pines, with a story or a fun name according to their position and age... Plus, the look of the beach was really lovely!



Once I was done with my walk and I reached the other bank, I decided that I could at least enjoy the "Naname Ichimonji" view (the one that looks like the Chinese kanji for "1")-- Suddenly I got very excited at the idea of ridind one of those tiny chair lifts!!



It was another terrible climb to reach for the station of the chair lifts, but in the end I reached Kasamatsu Park quite easily... The climb on chair lift wasn't as dangerously exciting as I guessed XD

Once I reached the top I could savour the view, that really is suggestive!

The story goes that the God Izanagi-no-Mikoto made a ladder to reach for Heaven.
Once he reached the Sky, though, the ladder collapsed, and its remains formed Amanohashidate.
From this spot you can really get the vibe of a bridge connecting earth and sky... But that's just an impression!

As every Scenic Spot, there is a tradition, and here in Amanohashidate to get the "correct view" you have to do the matanozoki, looking at the view from between your legs.

--SERIOUSLY!

To my huge disappointment I got to know that to matanozoki I had to climb another thousand steps--NUOOOO!



I was almost to pass out, but I succeeded! From here you can see the ladder pointing to the sky ;D !
Maybe it's me, but from this perspective it's actually going down, isn't it D: ?!

On the way back I decided to take a moment to walk around the city, where I witnessed the passion for fishes that all the Scenic Spots have in common (as all of them are located by the sea).
Here on the Asokai bay, sardines seem to be the local fetish specialty.




--Then I surrended and took a boat XD
Here's a shot of the "coast" from there :D


--On my way back I faced some adventure with the train tickets! It didn't go as smoothly as on my departure and to get back to Kyoto at a reasonable hour I had to take the famous Hashidate, for which I had to pay an extra:

-- So many tickets for the fare adjustment XD !

When I returned to Tokyo, I took care of the last but not least Scenic View, the beautiful Matsushima!

Again I got really excited when I entered a Shinkansen heading to the Wild Wild East!
This was the Komachi! And on my return I got to ride the Hayabusa :D

I arrived to Sendai and took a walk around the station--

I was looking for the famous zundamochi-based "Date Masamune ice-cream" but I couldn't find anything D: Meanwhile I got used to the mascottes of the city, Musubimaru and Masayan:



I don't know how resisted the urge to buy EVERYTHING Masayan D': Damn Japan and your cute kitties D'x !!

I took notice of these coin lockers decorated with the characters of Cyborg 009!

In the close-by city of Ishinomaki is the museum dedicated to Shotaro Ishinomori-- I would have loved to visit it >o< !!

After this I finally took the train for Matsushima.
I could spot the famed islands from the windows already >o< !!



Matsushima is a group of 260 tiny islands covered with pines, resting in the homonymous bay.

As soon as I got off the train, I visited a close-by touristic spot, where I was given a map and infos on the touristic attraction in Italian language (!!!)-- I also reserved my ticket for the cruise around the islands-- Since I was there I picked the longest cruise, the one that makes the complete tour around the bay ^o^

Along the road from the station to the boat pier, I got completely enamoured with the place already--







On the last picture you can see the bridge Fukuurabashi, that connects the island of Fukuurajima to the shore.

A familiar smell made me suddenly jump-- WHAT?!
As in Hiroshima, people here eat these damn grilled oysters too!

It was really strange for me to see two cities so different and so far away from each other to fancy the same exact food cooked the same way...
--They also share a culinary passion for eels! In Matsushima they seem to prefer the "conger" type, though!

It was almost time for my cruise, so I went to the boat pier-- Unfortunately it started to rain T_T The pictures that I took on the boat were quite pitiful, but I hope you appreciate my efforts anyway ToT !










--I was really pissed when the cutest Nioujima showed up on the side opposite to mine >o< !


Also, it made an impression to see the damages of the Tohoku Earthquake on some of the islands--




Once I was done with the cruise, I went to the Historical Museum of Date Masamune, but I'll talk about it in another post :D
After it, I took a stroll back to the boat pier and checked out the various souvenir shops-- By then the weather got a bit better and the rain stopped, fortunately :D

It was weird to see how popular Golgo is-- I saw him practically everywhere, and when I saw him in Matsushima too, I realized that I had to take a picture to these touristic keychains--

--While I was walking in the same store, my eye fell on this:

KYAAAAAH, FINALLY SOME LOCAL MERCHANDING THAT DIDN'T FEATURE ONE PIECE or GINTAMA x'DD
As a huge fan of Haikyuu! I had to buy these, also if I'm not a fan of clear files XD

--When I opened the packlet I realized that it contained a set of two clear files XD In the awe of getting it, I didn't pay attention to the text XD HOW UNBELIEVABLY CUTE ToT !!!

The Matsushima vs Hiroshima thing became more blatant when I found momiji manju being sold as omiyage there too--

--But to keep them "original" enough, they added some manju shaped as chestnuts >3> !

--But let's get back to my story.

Once I got back to the starting point, I decided to give a peek to Godaido, a close by shrine resting on set of tiny islands:







Ok, I took more pictures of the islands and their bridges rather than the temple, but it's all right, ok D: ?! The whole thing was very cute!!

After this I went to visit the Kanrantei and the attached Matsushima Museum.

The Museum wasn't that impressive, even if it featured some interesting bits about the Date clan, while the tea room was absolutely lovely:







This tea house belonged once to Hideyoshi and it was placed in Fushimi. Hideyoshi presented it to Masamune, who had it located in his residence in Edo. And finally, Masamune's son, Tadamune, brought it to Matsushima.
It was expecially used to savour tea at night, while looking at the moon.

I can share the feeling, the view from there was simply lovely.
I took a shitty panorama pic to give you an idea:


On my way back, I was really moved, and I can say that probably this last Scenic Spot was my favourite... Probably because this time I didn't deal with any mountain to enjoy the scenery XD

--Just thinking about how much I walked in those days makes me feel exhausted x'D

See you again for another report soon, then! Next time I'll spend some words on the Ninja Museum that I visited in Ise, at the Ise Azuchi-Momoyama Bunkamura theme park ;D

Originally posted at http://daeva-neesan.dreamwidth.org/562997.html

If you want, please comment there :3

otaku tour, pictures

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