Tactical Scopes
Here’s what I consider when buying a tactical scope for one of my rifles.
Magnification is the first thing I tend to look at. It’s going to have the biggest impact on how you shoot. What magnification to choose is entirely dependent on how far you plan on shooting. I like to think that 1x per hundred yards is a good rule. Others like more magnification, but it’s important to keep in mind: all you need to do to hit the target is be able to see it. Three times magnification is the most I’d consider for anything close quarters. Four power is the least I’d consider for longer ranges, or precision shooting at shorter ranges. The maximum is entirely dependent on your ability to hold the crosshairs on the target. It becomes more difficult the higher the magnification is.
Reticules are an important consideration as well. Mil-dots are popular, but really not necessary for most shooters. The one place that they tend to shine is on scopes with tenth (or even twentieth) mil windage and elevation adjustments - especially if the reticule is in the first focal place. When shooting at paper, this allows you to accurately estimate the distance from point of aim to point of impact in mils and adjust appropriately. No converting mils to minutes of angle. Otherwise, it’s easy enough to estimate inches and convert them to minutes, using a regular cross-hair.
There are other little specifics about scopes as well, like tube diameter. Supposedly a 30mm tube lets more light through than a 1inch tube, but in practice I’ve not noticed much of a difference. Objective diameter does seem to make a more noticeable difference though. Fifty millimeter objectives let in a lot of light, but they can get in the way of iron sights (on something like an M14) or require high rings to mount properly. A smaller objective give you more freedom in mounting the scope low - low enough to get a good cheek-weld. Forty millimeter seems to be a good compromise of light gathering and low mounting.
Other nice things to have are finger adjustable turrets, the kind that aren’t hidden by screw on dust covers. Lens covers are always a good idea. Side parallax adjustment is good to have, but not totally necessary in practice. Illumination is totally up to you. Theoretically it helps in low light, but I’ve never had a chance to shoot in low light. I can however see it helping in low magnification at short range though.
All of this aside, there is one thing that should be remembered above all else when buying an optic for your rifle. “You get what you pay for.”
Magnification is the first thing I tend to look at. It’s going to have the biggest impact on how you shoot. What magnification to choose is entirely dependent on how far you plan on shooting. I like to think that 1x per hundred yards is a good rule. Others like more magnification, but it’s important to keep in mind: all you need to do to hit the target is be able to see it. Three times magnification is the most I’d consider for anything close quarters. Four power is the least I’d consider for longer ranges, or precision shooting at shorter ranges. The maximum is entirely dependent on your ability to hold the crosshairs on the target. It becomes more difficult the higher the magnification is.
Reticules are an important consideration as well. Mil-dots are popular, but really not necessary for most shooters. The one place that they tend to shine is on scopes with tenth (or even twentieth) mil windage and elevation adjustments - especially if the reticule is in the first focal place. When shooting at paper, this allows you to accurately estimate the distance from point of aim to point of impact in mils and adjust appropriately. No converting mils to minutes of angle. Otherwise, it’s easy enough to estimate inches and convert them to minutes, using a regular cross-hair.
There are other little specifics about scopes as well, like tube diameter. Supposedly a 30mm tube lets more light through than a 1inch tube, but in practice I’ve not noticed much of a difference. Objective diameter does seem to make a more noticeable difference though. Fifty millimeter objectives let in a lot of light, but they can get in the way of iron sights (on something like an M14) or require high rings to mount properly. A smaller objective give you more freedom in mounting the scope low - low enough to get a good cheek-weld. Forty millimeter seems to be a good compromise of light gathering and low mounting.
Other nice things to have are finger adjustable turrets, the kind that aren’t hidden by screw on dust covers. Lens covers are always a good idea. Side parallax adjustment is good to have, but not totally necessary in practice. Illumination is totally up to you. Theoretically it helps in low light, but I’ve never had a chance to shoot in low light. I can however see it helping in low magnification at short range though.
All of this aside, there is one thing that should be remembered above all else when buying an optic for your rifle. “You get what you pay for.”