Update #2
Finally, after month and month of waiting...here it is. This is a copy of a report I sent to Rotary about a month ago. I can do nothing at this point but apologize for this update's being so late...but please know that I have been incredibly, incredibly busy. What you see here is only a glimpse into what keeps nearly every second of my time occupied. It certainly has not been a slow year.
Before you read...here is a little bit of Rotary Youth Exchange vocabularly that you might find helpful to know:
Inbound Student: an exchange student (like me) who has come from another country to Japan and is studying for the year through the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program.
Outbound Student: a Japanese student who will leave this summer to study in a foreign country through Rotary.
Rotex: a Japanese student who has already studied in a foreign country through Rotary, but who has returned to Japan as their year-long exchange ended.
So, here is the Report:
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First off, I apologize that this report is not more coherent. I think that I am slowly losing my ability to speak English and to notice when something I write is awkward or incorrect.
Also, please let me know if you have any questions, etc. especially if I’ve accidentally written a word in Japanese or something regarding the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program, etc. that you do not understand. Also, if you found anything particularly interesting and would like a further explanation, please feel free to e-mail me or post a question on my exchange website (http://www.livejournal.com/users/ToddinJapan).
Rotary International Student Exchange Report
District 7980 - Southern Connecticut, USA
Student's Name: Todd M. Spitz
1. Are you attending Rotary meetings? Describe them.
I attend approximately one Rotary meeting (weekly luncheon) per month and have been to a total of nine up to this point in my exchange. The meetings, particularly their differences from the meetings I have attended in America, are interesting. The meeting begins with warm-up stretches, commonly done at offices and companies, as well as occasionally schools through out Japan. The stretches are led, and the accompanying piano is played, by females. Two other women perform secretarial duties, but neither holds the position of club secretary, nor attends the actual meeting. Everyone else (save one Korean Rotary exchange teacher) is male. After the exercises, we sing the Japanese National Anthem (occasionally followed by a Japanese Rotary Song), and Then a "welcome" song is sung by the Rotarians for the guests. A few quick updates and notes are read, and then lunch is eaten. After lunch is finished, the Korean exchange teacher, then I, make an approximately 5 minute speech in Japanese about how our exchange is going. Following our short speeches is a 30 minute long speech made by a guest speaker, with topics ranging from Education to Business. This speech ends the luncheon, though I have noticed that many of the members of the Rotary Club (though perhaps, only the members of the board) get together for a lengthy private discussion after the luncheon is over.
2. Any public speaking engagements?
The first day of school I made a short, one minute speech introducing myself, where I was from, and why I was interested in Japan. It was the beginning of many, many speeches to come. Every month I make a speech at my Rotary meeting regarding my exchange. I explain what I have been doing during the month, and share some of my thoughts on what I found most interesting, as well as what cultural differences I have noticed. At a recent Rotary New Year's Party, I also had to answer a few questions along with the other inbound students, regarding what we did during the begging of the New Year, as well as what we wanted to do most before our exchange was over. While these public speaking engagements are quite difficult, I am glad to have so many opportunities to push my Japanese to its limit, which truly helps it improve.
3. Have you had any contact with Rotary (or other) exchange students?
I meet with other exchange students often. Two other Rotary exchange students, one from Brazil and the other from Thailand, also study at the same high school as I do. Approximately 2/3 of my classes are with these two exchange students, and 1/2 of those classes are we three exchange students alone (studying Japanese language, history, culture, etc.) At times, it is nice to be able to talk about our exchanges together, but I do occasionally wish that I was the only exchange student at the school. The Brazilian student and I speak too much English together, and I often feel pressured to talk with them at times I would rather be spending talking with my Japanese friends. I also am pretty sure that we are all harder to approach when we are together (especially when talking in English)...which I feel is very unfortunate. Now that all of our Japanese is much better, I have recently been very happily talking with both my Japanese friends and these two exchange students at the same time. I am much happier with the situation right now, and still feel very fortunate to receive all of our “private” classes, where we learn so much more than in our “regular” ones (the private classes are taught in Japanese, but in simpler Japanese than in a "normal" class with the other, Japanese students. Also, when we don't understand something a teacher says, he will always gladly rephrase or translate the problematic words).
Twice a month, during our traditional Japanese tea lessons, I am able to see all of the inbound and outbound students (as well as many Rotex) in my district (16 inbounds & 8 outbounds). During the lesson I am only with the inbounds, and we rarely get a chance to talk, but after the two hour lesson almost everyone goes out together for dinner, etc. (Bowling, billiards, karaoke, etc.). I would say, in fact, that my best friends here in Japan are the Japanese outbounds and Rotex. The Rotex, having already studied in a foreign country, know the exchange process very well. While their English is almost always significantly better than an average Japanese student, the Rotex understand our desire to learn the language and tend to speak to us (inbounds) in Japanese. They also are the most likely person to correct mistakes in our Japanese, which an average person will not do. The similarities between our current and their past exchanges also give us a lot to talk about. I have also become good friends with a few of the outbound students. While they don’t completely “get” the exchange process yet, they have an incredible amount of curiosity about foreign cultures and the exchange process. Their English is typically worse than the Rotex, and I almost always talk to them in Japanese, which is nice. With these Rotex and outbound friends, I have been to many museums, cafes, bowling alleys, movies, karaoke boxes, etc. There have also been many events planned by Rotary or the Rotex which have enabled everyone to get together often.
The first (not including the language camp) was the summer orientation in Hakone, a popular travel spot south-west of Tokyo. On the trip we did a lot of sight seeing, played many group-bonding games, and discussed about the Rotary Youth Exchange program. This trip was everyone’s first change to get to know each other, and many friendships were first developed here. The rules for our exchange were set and explained, and we all presented a little about our countries and ourselves, but the camp appeared to mostly be an icebreaker for all of the inbounds and outbounds. The next main event was a Rotex-planned trip to an old town filled with shrines. We saw many sights of traditional Japan, including a giant statue of Buddha, as well as many, many Shinto shrines. It was during this trip that I became aware of how developed the Rotex “program” was in Tokyo. This trip was completely thought up of, planned/organized, and run by Rotex; no Rotarians were present during the entire trip. The was also a pleasant surprise as we visited the giant bronze statue of Buddha-one of the inbound students noticed that the Rotary “gear” was engraved into two large marble lion statues at the entrance. We were all quite surprised. The next event planned only by the Rotex was “O-Mochi Tsuki”-a traditional Japanese event celebrating the New Year. During the event we pounded rice into patties with a wooden sledge. It was a fun, traditional event, and everyone was glad to be able to meet one another again.
Another main Rotary gathering involved speeches made by the returning Rotex students, as well as an after party. The speeches seemed to be well done, but they were presented so early in our exchange that they were quite difficult to understand. I left with a terrible headache from trying to concentrate and understand what little I could. Another event was watching a traditional Kabuki play together with exchange students from another Rotary district in Tokyo. I not only loved the play, its fascinating story and music and stylized movements, I was also very pleased to meet Rotary exchange students outside of my district, and one of them has become a very good friend of mine. A Christmas party involving many games and musical performances was also setup by the Rotex, and many of the outbounds from the other Youth Exchange district in Tokyo also attended. A formal New Year’s party was also held, in which we, inbound students, had to answer a few questions on the spot about our New Year experiences and our hopes during the remainder of the exchange. It was a real test of our Japanese. Also, it was during this party that the outbound students learned their destination countries and cities. The last of these large Rotary get-togethers was a large Tokyo Rotary Conference. Though we outbounds and inbounds did nothing but attend and watch the ceremonies, it was yet another chance to meet and talk with the other Rotary exchange students.
At my monthly Rotary meeting, I am able to meet a Korean exchange teacher. We don’t often have a chance to talk, but when we do, we often realize many similarities between our exchanges. I have also met her twice while we went out dining out with my host families.
Through my high school and its affiliated university, I have gone on three trips with other exchange students study at the university. The first trip was to a temple and an area of Japan famous for its grapes. Grape vineyards covered the land everywhere, and most things we ate were flavored with grapes. I also had the chance to bath in a public hot spring bath、as well as in a bath of red wine. It was a very interesting experience and very relaxing. The next trip was on Christmas day, this time to another temple, another hot spring bath, then to a famous hot spring where eggs are boiled in and sold as a traditional Japanese specialty. Though not quite the Christmas I was expecting when I came to Japan, it was a fun experience, and it was nice to talk with some of these older, college exchange students. The last trip was to a sumo match. Though I had already been to one sump match, it was nice to go again. This time I was able to notice many more of the strict, ceremonial movements preceding each bout.
*Unfortunately, I have lost my question sheet and do not remember the next questions. Instead, I will write freely on a few different aspects of my exchange here.
Studies into Traditional Japan and the “Japanese Heart.”-
Aikido: Within the first month of my stay in Japan, I began studying Aikido-a recently created branch of traditional Japanese martial arts. I had hoped to study this at my high school, but a club only existed in the affiliated middle school and university. I was not allowed to study at the college, and so I began practicing Aikido (as well as a few other, more traditional marital arts) with the middle school students. At the same time, my host father/counselor talked to a Rotarian in his Rotary club to see if I could study at that Rotarian’s dojo (a martial art place of study). This Rotarian said that he would love to have me there and I soon began to study at the dojo. As it turns out, however, this Rotarian was no ordinary man who happened to own an Aikido dojo; he is the grandson of the founder of Aikido, and by Japanese standards (as both his grandfather and father have passed away), he is the living embodiment of Aikido itself. While I have been studying at the dojo for 7 months, going anywhere from 1-6 times per week, I have not yet attended his 6:30 am class. It was not until recently that I learned that I am even allowed to attend the class. Regardless, now that school is back in session, I am hoping to go before school starts in the morning and make the 6:30 class a regular part of my schedule. Through the dojo, I also recently received the opportunity to take a 2 day trip to the hometown (and gravestone) of the Founder. Soon, I will be traveling to the Ceremonial Shrine of Aikido, where the Founder spent the end of his days continuing his search for true enlightenment and harmony with the Universe.
Aikido has been great mental and physical training. The training is done in pairs, with one person “attacking” and the other “defending.” The “attack,” however, is only simulated, as no violence is allowed in Aikido. Aikido literally means “the way of harmonizing with ki/universe” (Ai=harmony, Ki=universe, spirit, “life force, etc., Dou= the way of). To successfully “perform a move,” I must learn to do so without using any strength or wasting energy. While I have undoubtedly improved, it is only through years and years of training that I can begin to actually correctly do so. Talks of “harmonizing with the universe” certainly tends to provoke smirks from listeners, but it is something that permeates throughout almost all of the traditional Japanese arts, as well as what I see as a big piece of the heart of Japan and its people. This strive towards perfection is easily seen in the other martial arts and calligraphy I study at school, as well as the tea ceremony I study on Saturdays, and yet I am quite sure that it exists throughout the culture in many ways I cannot yet see. While each art naturally has its individual differences, they all seem to be linked in how to reach the desired destination. One must practice rigidly structured movements again and again until the art becomes complete muscle-memory and can be performed in total relaxation, without conscious thought. Part of the beauty of it all in my eyes is how the same process can be used in so many different aspects of life. I certainly know that many sports players would agree with the philosophy, referring to being “in the zone” and performing with barely any thought. Its range in the traditional Japanese arts is also quite fascinating, considering the strict rules of the tea ceremony (where the actions of one’s feet, hands, and just about everything else are predetermined) vs. the freedom of more artistic studies such as flower arranging, music, and many forms of martial arts.
I study tea ceremony approximately 2 times a month after school on Saturdays. Again, I have been incredibly lucky to have been placed into a Rotary Club of a region in central Tokyo, as I have the opportunity to study in what is basically the top teahouse in Japan for my studied style (while only slightly different from each other, there are a few different styles of tea ceremony). In January, Prime Minister Koizumi went for his annual visit to drink tea there. It is a beautiful, traditionally styled building with many areas dating back to over 400 years ago when the headmaster built his private teahouse. The only problem in my eyes, however, is that only about 2 of the other inbound exchange students even seem to have interest in the lessons, so we cannot experience the “excellence” of where we are studying to the fullest extent possible. Regardless, it still is an amazing opportunity, and I am sorry that I cannot go more often. The classes are in Japanese, making them quite difficult to understand at first, but now they are much more understandable. Recently, it has been nice now to get past the basic movements and understand much of the meaning of the tea ceremony. The tea ceremony is very much about service, which is an incredibly large part of Japanese culture itself. The server of the tea must do as much as possible to make the guest feel welcome, and the extent at which one will go to in order to do so is incredible. The ceremony begins as the host opens the door and bows to the guests, and throughout the ceremony the utensils are constantly being “purified.” Much of the attempt at service cannot even be seen by the guest, however, as it takes place in the preparations before the ceremony begins. The tea is repeatedly sifted by hand to keep it in a fine powder. The room is carefully arranged, and always includes a hanging piece of calligraphy or sumi (charcoal) painting, along with a small flower arrangement. The stone path leading to the tea room is purified with water, and often even dried by hand soon before the guest arrives in order to prevent them from accidentally slipping. A truly good host will even clean the leaves of all of the surrounding bushes by hand, all for the sake of making a perfect environment for the guest.
The value placed on service in Japan is nothing less than incredible. Many stores and hotels have attendants at the entrance to open doors for you, bow, and welcome you into the building. Such service is also commonly seen on the elevators. If you ask a question most workers will go more than out of their way to answer the question or fill your request. The value on service roots back even to the Samurai, which literally means “one who serves.” Their one main purpose in life was to serve the emperor and shoguns who ranked above them, and they would gladly give their own lives in order to do so.
While service is one of the main aspects of the tea ceremony, there are also many more. There is a “Wabi-Sabi” beauty-in-what-is-plain peace aspect, which involves smooth, relaxed, and very fine moments. Nature also holds great importance in the tea ceremony. The tea room walls, flower vase, tea bowl, and water basin are made of clay, and the floor mats, as well as most of the utensils used are of bamboo. Colors are also important, and tend to be subdued, natural ones. Even the sweet eaten before the tea is made to represent the season and nature. Watches, jewelry, cellular phones, etc. are all removed before the ceremony in order to forget about time, social status, and the “outside world.” Even some of the traditionally Japanese views on beauty and philosophies regarding life can be seen in the tea ceremony. For example, it is said that a perfect balance exists between the bitter tea and the sweet “O-kashi” eaten before drinking.
Recently, I have been questioning myself about the place of “Wabi-Sabi” in the tea ceremony, as the tea bowls and a few of the utensils used can range from being incredibly simple to being elaborately decorated with gold and other flashy, expensive materials. I am still searching for an answer beyond my own current guess that simplicity is simply one form of a “beautiful” tea ceremony. Throughout Japanese culture there always seems to be a great deal of contrast (even conflict) between simplicity, nature, and beauty in flaws vs. complexity, flamboyance, luxuriousness, and mechanical perfection. Both seem to be appreciated by the Japanese at the same time.
Overall, the tea classes are enjoyable, and I feel incredibly lucky for the opportunity. Relatively few people in Japan, especially teenagers my age, have ever even studied tea ceremony. I do wish that the other students were more interested in it, but it sure seems to be something I can’t change. Instead, I am trying to find ways outside of these Rotary lessons to practice/participate in tea ceremony. A good friend from Aikido also studies tea, and I recently went to a big event held by her place of study. Out of a few hundred participants, I was one of about 10 people below age 35 (and of two below 25), one of around 5 men, and the only foreigner, but it was quite fun. I was only drinking the tea, but it was nice to be among so many people who truly enjoyed the art, and I hope to be able to participate in a similar event again.
For quite a while now I have wanted to study the Shamisen, a traditional three stringed Japanese instrument (it is played like a guitar, but has no frets and is therefore much like a violin or cello). The exotic sound of the Shamisen is very appealing to me, and I like the traditional Japanese philosophies that exist with the Shamisen-ones I wouldn’t come across while studying a western instrument. It is something I really hoped to study, but my chances of doing so have become slim. While I was able to meet my host grandmother’s teacher, practically speaking, I couldn’t take lessons because of my lack of available free time. I still have a little hope for when I return to America and begin studying in New York, but my guess is that time will again be too limited to allow me to commit myself to studying the Shamisen.
Japanese Language-
Man is this ever a tough language. There are two phonetic writing systems: one used for Japanese words and the other used for foreign names and words taken from foreign languages (e.g. escalator = esukare-ta [es-ka-ray-ta]). These aren’t very difficult, and are learned much like the ABC’s of the Arabic Alphabet. The problem is the Kanji (pictorial letters). As if making a different picture for a different word wasn’t hard enough for the Japanese, someone decided that each kanji should have 2…3…4…even 6 or more readings. How to read a kanji can change if it’s placed next to other kanji, if it is or isn’t followed by certain letters of the phonetic system, or occasionally, if you just feel like (particularly used for artistic purposes in poems and songs). Often I will find that I understand the meaning of a sentence, but simply cannot read it as I don’t know which way to pronounce the kanji. This is even a problem for many Japanese, especially younger students, who often stumble on the pronunciation of words when reading a piece of writing out loud. Names are also fun, considering that they have their own independent readings for kanji. Then, of course, in order to properly speak Japanese you must conjugate your verbs differently and add or remove words to what you are saying depending on the age, sex, rank, etc. of those to whom you are talking to. The rules for doing so are so complex and still beyond me that I won’t even try to explain. Regardless of all this, however, my language skills have immensely improved. My lack of vocabulary occasionally gives me trouble, but I can almost always get across what I intend to say. I can hold a normal conversation, and I rarely have to translate in my head from English to Japanese. To tell the truth, I often find myself at a blank for a word in English, though I know its Japanese counterpart (e.g. I once couldn’t remember the translation for sotsugiyoushiki-graduation ceremony). Television shows and movies are still a bit too hard to completely understand, but I can almost always understand the gist of things. The regular classes are also quite difficult to understand, though I have recently found myself being able to understand a good portion of the lectures.
Host Families-
My host families have all been pretty wonderful, though all with their up and down sides. The first I really became very close to. I lived in an apartment by myself below them; their cooking was often very Chinese; they spoke a bit of English, and they were so busy with work that they often couldn’t come home before 11 or 12 o’clock at night…but I still was incredibly satisfied with them. While their work did keep them very busy, I truly feel that everything they did was in my best interest. I often received long Japanese lessons from my host father; they found many, many special, once-in-a-lifetime chances for me to participate in; I truly felt more than welcome in their home.
The second host family was also very nice. While I no longer received private Japanese lessons, it was great to finally be able to live everyday life with a Japanese family. Also, because they could barely speak any English, they didn’t resort to translation whenever I didn’t understand something or whenever something was important. I was finally being forced to use Japanese…in a very much sink or swim fashion. It was through living and talking with this family that I finally learned how to use all of the knowledge that I had gained from my first host father. It was with this family, however, that I had my only real problems during the exchange, though it was only during the last two weeks of my stay with them that the problems arose. To make a long story short, we all made many mistakes, but in the end everything has worked out, I believe. Though it was a very difficult time for me, I do believe that I learned a lot about human relations, Japan, and myself. It was difficult, but I am glad in many ways that what happened did.
The third family was also great. My host mother always tried to teach me whatever she could think of regarding Japanese culture. I had a wonderful 25 yr. old host brother, who I often went out together with. We played pool, went to a public bath, a golfing range, a shopping and entertainment center by the ocean, as well as did many other things, including eating many dinners together. He was a great brother and friend, and though I only talked to him in Japanese, he studied at a college in America for two years, so he could usually help me when I was stuck on how to say something in Japanese. There was also an adorable two year old host niece who often came to the house to visit, and I was very sorry to see her go when I had to change to my next host family.
My current, fourth family is also very nice. Though they are much harder to understand than any of my past family members, they are very helpful. The current host father is the only one of my five families who is not a Rotarian. I am being hosted by them as his son used to study at the same high school I am currently studying at, and is now studying at a high school in Connecticut. I met the son once during a vacation, and hope to see him more after I return to America. I also have a 12 year old host brother going to the Gakushuin elementary school (I am at Gakushuin High School). He is quite loud, and a bit of a “difficult” son/brother, but it is the first time in my life having a younger brother, and I think that it is a fun experience.
My next family seems like it will be very nice. I met everyone in the family (mother, father, & sister) during a previous Rotary bus tour, and they all seem very nice. They also will be the most traditional of all of my families, which may make my last days in the country quite interesting. Unfortunately (perhaps), they live a little ways outside of the main part of Tokyo. Three of my previous host families have lived right in the center of the city, within a 3 minute walking distance to very useful train/subway stations. From my next host family’s house, however, I will have to change trains at least twice to get any where that I will want to go, including school. Still, I guess it is little at all to complain about.
School-
I am going to Gakushuin Senior Boy’s High School, the Japanese Royal Family’s high school (every member of the royal family has gone through this school system, all the way from their kindergarten to their college). It is an all boys’ school, and is on the University’s campus. It is a very difficult school to enter, and is also quite famous school, as almost every Japanese citizen knows of it. Like all other Japanese students, I must wear a school uniform (the old Japanese naval uniform) everyday. The school, however, is much more lenient than most other high schools (at least those of similarly high rank). I would love to go on and explain a lot more about it, but I simply do not currently have the time. It really is a wonderful school, however, and I am so glad to have been chosen to go here. Perhaps one of the only things it needs is female students (just kidding).
Food-
Fortunately, I happen to like Japanese food, and have slowly been able to get used to the foods that gave me trouble when I first came here. I am now quite used to the fish, rice, raw egg, and natto (a stringy, smelly, soybean-like food you cannot understand until you’ve tried it), which I eat every morning for breakfast. Most of my meals, including both dinners and school lunches, involve many things I had never seen before I came to Japan, but I think that I have grown to enjoy almost all of them.
The food here really is nice, though. It is almost always presented in a beautiful manner, and often the sweets are so adorable that you almost do not want to eat them. It is also nice having smaller portions, as well as knowing that most of the food is much healthier than that in America. Even the sweets often border on being “healthy,” and are usually quite subtly sweetened, making them more edible than some of the overpoweringly sweet cakes and candies I often ate in America. Of course, almost anything that is popular in America is also popular here, so if I am craving something particular, I can usually find some version of it fairly easily.
Fun/Play-
I go to karaoke a lot. I do many other things as well, including billiards, movies, shopping, cafes, museums, and a whole lot more…but I really do go to karaoke a lot. Singing is always something I have loved to do, and singing in Japanese is great practice for my ability to speak the language. I think that it will be something that I will really miss when returning to America, and I hope that I will be able to find some form of it when I am living in New York.
Once-a-lifetime-opportunities-
Going to Japan. I think that alone would have been enough to satisfy me, but the lucky breaks did not end there. I sometimes can’t understand how I have managed to be so lucky. I was placed in the center of Tokyo. I am going to the Emperor of Japan’s high school. I have had incredibly good families. Half-way up Mt. Fuji, I have during an all night drum festival created by a Grammy Award winning Taiko drum player. He played the drums especially for me as I performed. Also, the weather was amazing and the sunrise unusually clear (almost all of the other years the drum festival had experienced poor weather). I helped carry a portable shrine in a festival celebrating the 400th year anniversary of the creation of Edo. This was something that almost no Japanese people get to do, even if they want to. I am studying at the world headquarters of Aikido, with the grandson of the founder of Aikido. As part of my martial arts training I got to get up at 4:30 in the morning in order to wear a small piece of cloth and throw freezing cold water all over my body during the coldest time of the year. While freezing, to be able to do such a traditional ceremony that so few Japanese participate in was an amazing experience. I am studying Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony at one of Japan’s best places of study. I went to the ZagatSurvey’s number one rated Sushi restaurant in Japan, and ate over $200 worth of sushi in one night. I got to eat sushi made by what is said to be the best sushi in Japan (I believe it was unlisted in Zagats) during my host grandfather’s 90th birthday…all in the comfort of my host family’s home. I even got to eat a piece of sushi worth $15 (yes, only one piece. It was good). I have been on countless trips through the Rotary Youth Exchange Program, my host Rotary Club, my host families, and my school. These trips have included everything from ski trips in Hokkaido (the northern island of Japan), to countless old towns in Japan, sumo matches, festivals, and so much more. To think that almost every single one of these unforgettable opportunities was provided by Rotary or Rotarians! I cannot thank any of you enough. While they all have been amazingly fun opportunities, perhaps the most amazing thing about all of them is how much I can learn during such enjoyable times. The same goes for my everyday life here as well. Even without any of these amazingly rare opportunities, I would still be having the time of my life and would still be learning more than I could in year after year of high school. This exchange truly is indescribable.
Culture-
There is simply too much to talk about here. Too much I have seen; too much I have experienced. There is just so much to a culture, especially in how each aspect is so closely related to one another that you simply have to experience it to even begin to understand. Then again, there are many, many things I do not but slightly yet understand.
There is a constant conflict between a love of nature and technology, as well as the traditional world vs. the new-a conflict which I now can much better understand due my own plans to study engineering in college (before I came to Japan).
After first arriving in the county it is easy to see the importance of service in the country. Companies and restaurants bend over backwards to please customers. People open doors for you and welcome you inside their store. All of the workers, waiters, attendants, etc. thank you for coming to their store as you leave, even if you purchase nothing. Nearly everywhere you go, you feel welcome. This, however, permeates very deep into the culture, making simple human relations often quite difficult. There are often times when someone will be nice to and even invite you to their home, even if they strongly dislike you. This is no joke, it actually happens. It is part of the desire to avoid conflict and keep things running smoothly. Unfortunately, it can make people’s true emotions very difficult to understand, and it had me a little paranoid during part of exchange. Of course, the younger generation tends to be much more frank in conversation, and there is a general trend toward western culture/conversation, but many similar cultural differences can often still be seen. For example, in conversation the Japanese are very quick to apologize. Even if you think the other person is at fault, by apologizing yourself (in reality, both people apologize), it is said to smooth things over more quickly and keep human relations running. Unlike in America where finding out the truth is incredibly important, doing so is simply not necessary in many Japanese conversations.
One aspect of Japanese culture I find fascinating, and often find myself agreeing with, is the traditional view on beauty. Recently, the sakura (cherry-blossom) trees were in bloom, and I soon learned how much the Japanese cherish this flower. There are hundreds of songs regarding the flowing, most entitled simply “sakura.” The verb which literally translates to flower-viewing does not actually mean viewing any type of flower, it means to sit and party under a sakura tree. Also, the word “to bloom,” happens to be saku, which you may notice is incredibly similar to sakura. The sakura blossom is the symbol of the imperial family and therefore as well as my school; two golden blossoms even crest the neck of my school uniform. They are also a big representation of graduation throughout Japan, as almost all students graduate during the time that the trees are blooming. It seems interesting to me that it works out such that the sakura blossoms are sign of graduation, due to how most Japanese view the beauty of the flower. What is said to be most beautiful about the sakura blossoms is how quick their bloom ends. After around two weeks of bloom, the tree becomes filled with green leaves and the flowers all fall off. Long before you can grow tired of the flowers, they have already left, and that make them even more beautiful (perhaps that is not the true reason-I think I know more that their being beautiful for only a short time *is* admired, not why). This view of beauty can be seen throughout Japanese history. A samurai’s suicide was seen as very honorable and beautiful. Even kamikaze pilots, boys who had just graduated high school and entered battle with the sole intent of dying for their country, were said to be beautiful like sakura blossoms.
One of the most difficult things in trying to learn about Japanese culture, however, is how it is constantly changing. As we live in a dynamic universe, as time passes it is only natural that all cultures will change. It seems to me, however, that Japanese culture is changing quite rapidly. Before Japan was forced to open itself to the rest of the world by Commander Perry in 1854, Japanese culture changed very little. Nearly all foreign inventions, religions, etc. were banned by the government, so rather than the culture seeing drastic changes, it became more and more concentrated. It was during this time that the Noh and Kabuki plays, tea ceremony, martial arts, calligraphy, etc. were refined. When Japan was finally forced to “open its doors,” it extremely quickly adapted to the outside world, doing its best to “catch up.” To me, however, it still seems like many Japanese are trying to become more and more western. That is not to say that they in any way have not yet “caught up to the rest of the world,” it is simply that most people I come across show a desire to be seen as more western. Well, regardless…things are changing, and it sometimes gives me a ton of trouble in understanding some parts of the culture.
Whether I feel I understand different aspects of Japanese culture or not, I must send my deepest of all possible thanks to all of you for giving me the opportunity to experience everything I am; for giving me the reason to truly think about Japanese culture and the world as a whole. By leaving my own culture, I now come across so many different views of the world and of America. And I feel a much stronger connection to my country and my country’s actions. Even though I view myself as an individual, I can never pull myself away from the groups that I am composed of. My actions represent my school, my family, Rotary, America. Just the same, I realize that the actions of other students my age, the actions of Rotary International, and the actions of my country affect me and how others view me, whether I like it or not. Because of all of this, it makes me not only more aware of the issues of America, it makes me feel like it is up to me to make a difference in how my country acts, even if I am just one puzzle piece among millions. At the very least I feel that I have to do my part.
By living in another culture, there is also so much more meaning to thinking about the problems affecting that country-my second home. Now that I have 5 families and hundreds of friends living in Japan, the risk of a terrorist attack on Tokyo becomes so much more real. It is no longer just word on a piece of newspaper. It has become something that affects people I truly care about, and it therefore affects me. To simply read about the horror of the atomic bomb dropped in Nagasaki means so much less than to live with a family who’s two children are often stricken with sever sickness as well as several permanent illnesses, all caused by radiation from the bombs. Even now, years and years after the bombs were dropped, I can still directly see the effects dragging my two host siblings down every day. And it scares me in many ways. I think about technology and my own plans to study engineering, and it makes me stop and think about what I want for my future. What do I want to study? What do I want to become? What is truly important to me? How will my actions affect the future? I am finally asking myself questions that I never really gave myself time to ask when I was back in America.
It is because of these constant thoughts, these amazing opportunities, this once-in-a-lifetime experience that I cannot even begin to explain and give it the justice it deserves, that I want to help Rotary and Rotary Youth Exchange as much as I possibly can. I owe you so much, and the students who are missing these chances deserve to learn about the wonder of the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program. Also, I would like to apologize if this doesn’t come across as wonderful as it should. For so many reasons I don’t think that this can possibly display my true feelings on my experience, and Japan, nor the extent of my gratitude to Rotary International and everyone who made this possible. The opportunities that I have been given are simply indescribable, and I am doing everything I can to take advantage of them all. Thank you so, so very much.
Sincerely,
Todd Spitz
(aoimeshiruba@hotmail.com)
(http://www.livejournal.com/users/ToddinJapan)
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As for a quick update for what I've been up since I wrote the report:
Have I ever been busy this month. I spent a few days with my grandmother who came to visit Japan. I brought her to my school and she met two of my host families. I went to the ocean with the incoming freshman at the High School (Graduation is in March and the new school year in April). I toured Tokyo Bay with the other Rotary Exchange Students, but understood little of the very technical Japanese used to explain the importance of the port to Japan and its economy. I went on a traditional house-shaped boat with my Host Rotary Club to participate in flower watching. I went to a speech made by the president of my University when he came to Tokyo. I met with a Japanese exchange student that I had hosted back in America three years ago. I went with other exchange students to one Rotex’s father’s lacquer exhibit (his father is a famous lacquer painter). I went on a two day trip to Kyoto with my host family during a Japanese holiday. I went with my host brother to a soccer match on National Children’s Day. I went to a modernized Kabuki play (in modern Japanese) with my school. I had a wonderful birthday party at a Brazilian Restaurant with a bunch of friends. Yesterday, I carried another portable shrine (this time with other Rotary Exchange Students). It was during one of the largest festivals in Tokyo-the Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrine Festival). During a typical year, 1 million people come to watch and celebrate the festival. I have also been loaded with homework and projects which take a lot of time. But what has been keeping me the most busy-what made me pull many late, late nights and even two all-nighters (one two days before my birthday!), is a translation I am currently trying to finish up. I am making English subtitles for a 70 minute “how-to-firedance” instructional video made by some of my firedancing friends in Tokyo. The problem is that they are going to professionally sell the video, so even when I am receiving no pay for the job, I feel like I must do my absolute best. I have found out very quickly that translating, especially when creating subtitle, is not easy. I find great pleasure out of helping these friends, but I often wish that I had more time to work on the project.
Overall, this month has been tiring, but wonderful, just like all of the others. I have not been to Aikido in a while, but am excited about starting lessons again tomorrow.
Also coming up, I have the Rotary International Annual Conference to go to (I have heard that around 50,000 people will be there!). I have to write a quick speech to read to the other exchange students for a speech contest. Next month, I have a slightly longer and much more official speech summing up my stay in Japan. It will be to the same exchange students and Rotex, but there will also be many guests including host families, teachers, etc. The culmination of the speeches, however, will be on June 21st. I will be making a 30 minute speech for my Host Rotary Club, the club that has supported me and my stay for the whole year. To make things even better, my parents will be visiting me in Japan at the time, so they will be present during the speech. Talk about pressure!
Alright...well I really should get going. But I hope that you all are having an incredible time back in America. I am returning July 20th, so it won't be long before I will be able to see many of you.
Before you read...here is a little bit of Rotary Youth Exchange vocabularly that you might find helpful to know:
Inbound Student: an exchange student (like me) who has come from another country to Japan and is studying for the year through the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program.
Outbound Student: a Japanese student who will leave this summer to study in a foreign country through Rotary.
Rotex: a Japanese student who has already studied in a foreign country through Rotary, but who has returned to Japan as their year-long exchange ended.
So, here is the Report:
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First off, I apologize that this report is not more coherent. I think that I am slowly losing my ability to speak English and to notice when something I write is awkward or incorrect.
Also, please let me know if you have any questions, etc. especially if I’ve accidentally written a word in Japanese or something regarding the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program, etc. that you do not understand. Also, if you found anything particularly interesting and would like a further explanation, please feel free to e-mail me or post a question on my exchange website (http://www.livejournal.com/users/ToddinJapan).
Rotary International Student Exchange Report
District 7980 - Southern Connecticut, USA
Student's Name: Todd M. Spitz
1. Are you attending Rotary meetings? Describe them.
I attend approximately one Rotary meeting (weekly luncheon) per month and have been to a total of nine up to this point in my exchange. The meetings, particularly their differences from the meetings I have attended in America, are interesting. The meeting begins with warm-up stretches, commonly done at offices and companies, as well as occasionally schools through out Japan. The stretches are led, and the accompanying piano is played, by females. Two other women perform secretarial duties, but neither holds the position of club secretary, nor attends the actual meeting. Everyone else (save one Korean Rotary exchange teacher) is male. After the exercises, we sing the Japanese National Anthem (occasionally followed by a Japanese Rotary Song), and Then a "welcome" song is sung by the Rotarians for the guests. A few quick updates and notes are read, and then lunch is eaten. After lunch is finished, the Korean exchange teacher, then I, make an approximately 5 minute speech in Japanese about how our exchange is going. Following our short speeches is a 30 minute long speech made by a guest speaker, with topics ranging from Education to Business. This speech ends the luncheon, though I have noticed that many of the members of the Rotary Club (though perhaps, only the members of the board) get together for a lengthy private discussion after the luncheon is over.
2. Any public speaking engagements?
The first day of school I made a short, one minute speech introducing myself, where I was from, and why I was interested in Japan. It was the beginning of many, many speeches to come. Every month I make a speech at my Rotary meeting regarding my exchange. I explain what I have been doing during the month, and share some of my thoughts on what I found most interesting, as well as what cultural differences I have noticed. At a recent Rotary New Year's Party, I also had to answer a few questions along with the other inbound students, regarding what we did during the begging of the New Year, as well as what we wanted to do most before our exchange was over. While these public speaking engagements are quite difficult, I am glad to have so many opportunities to push my Japanese to its limit, which truly helps it improve.
3. Have you had any contact with Rotary (or other) exchange students?
I meet with other exchange students often. Two other Rotary exchange students, one from Brazil and the other from Thailand, also study at the same high school as I do. Approximately 2/3 of my classes are with these two exchange students, and 1/2 of those classes are we three exchange students alone (studying Japanese language, history, culture, etc.) At times, it is nice to be able to talk about our exchanges together, but I do occasionally wish that I was the only exchange student at the school. The Brazilian student and I speak too much English together, and I often feel pressured to talk with them at times I would rather be spending talking with my Japanese friends. I also am pretty sure that we are all harder to approach when we are together (especially when talking in English)...which I feel is very unfortunate. Now that all of our Japanese is much better, I have recently been very happily talking with both my Japanese friends and these two exchange students at the same time. I am much happier with the situation right now, and still feel very fortunate to receive all of our “private” classes, where we learn so much more than in our “regular” ones (the private classes are taught in Japanese, but in simpler Japanese than in a "normal" class with the other, Japanese students. Also, when we don't understand something a teacher says, he will always gladly rephrase or translate the problematic words).
Twice a month, during our traditional Japanese tea lessons, I am able to see all of the inbound and outbound students (as well as many Rotex) in my district (16 inbounds & 8 outbounds). During the lesson I am only with the inbounds, and we rarely get a chance to talk, but after the two hour lesson almost everyone goes out together for dinner, etc. (Bowling, billiards, karaoke, etc.). I would say, in fact, that my best friends here in Japan are the Japanese outbounds and Rotex. The Rotex, having already studied in a foreign country, know the exchange process very well. While their English is almost always significantly better than an average Japanese student, the Rotex understand our desire to learn the language and tend to speak to us (inbounds) in Japanese. They also are the most likely person to correct mistakes in our Japanese, which an average person will not do. The similarities between our current and their past exchanges also give us a lot to talk about. I have also become good friends with a few of the outbound students. While they don’t completely “get” the exchange process yet, they have an incredible amount of curiosity about foreign cultures and the exchange process. Their English is typically worse than the Rotex, and I almost always talk to them in Japanese, which is nice. With these Rotex and outbound friends, I have been to many museums, cafes, bowling alleys, movies, karaoke boxes, etc. There have also been many events planned by Rotary or the Rotex which have enabled everyone to get together often.
The first (not including the language camp) was the summer orientation in Hakone, a popular travel spot south-west of Tokyo. On the trip we did a lot of sight seeing, played many group-bonding games, and discussed about the Rotary Youth Exchange program. This trip was everyone’s first change to get to know each other, and many friendships were first developed here. The rules for our exchange were set and explained, and we all presented a little about our countries and ourselves, but the camp appeared to mostly be an icebreaker for all of the inbounds and outbounds. The next main event was a Rotex-planned trip to an old town filled with shrines. We saw many sights of traditional Japan, including a giant statue of Buddha, as well as many, many Shinto shrines. It was during this trip that I became aware of how developed the Rotex “program” was in Tokyo. This trip was completely thought up of, planned/organized, and run by Rotex; no Rotarians were present during the entire trip. The was also a pleasant surprise as we visited the giant bronze statue of Buddha-one of the inbound students noticed that the Rotary “gear” was engraved into two large marble lion statues at the entrance. We were all quite surprised. The next event planned only by the Rotex was “O-Mochi Tsuki”-a traditional Japanese event celebrating the New Year. During the event we pounded rice into patties with a wooden sledge. It was a fun, traditional event, and everyone was glad to be able to meet one another again.
Another main Rotary gathering involved speeches made by the returning Rotex students, as well as an after party. The speeches seemed to be well done, but they were presented so early in our exchange that they were quite difficult to understand. I left with a terrible headache from trying to concentrate and understand what little I could. Another event was watching a traditional Kabuki play together with exchange students from another Rotary district in Tokyo. I not only loved the play, its fascinating story and music and stylized movements, I was also very pleased to meet Rotary exchange students outside of my district, and one of them has become a very good friend of mine. A Christmas party involving many games and musical performances was also setup by the Rotex, and many of the outbounds from the other Youth Exchange district in Tokyo also attended. A formal New Year’s party was also held, in which we, inbound students, had to answer a few questions on the spot about our New Year experiences and our hopes during the remainder of the exchange. It was a real test of our Japanese. Also, it was during this party that the outbound students learned their destination countries and cities. The last of these large Rotary get-togethers was a large Tokyo Rotary Conference. Though we outbounds and inbounds did nothing but attend and watch the ceremonies, it was yet another chance to meet and talk with the other Rotary exchange students.
At my monthly Rotary meeting, I am able to meet a Korean exchange teacher. We don’t often have a chance to talk, but when we do, we often realize many similarities between our exchanges. I have also met her twice while we went out dining out with my host families.
Through my high school and its affiliated university, I have gone on three trips with other exchange students study at the university. The first trip was to a temple and an area of Japan famous for its grapes. Grape vineyards covered the land everywhere, and most things we ate were flavored with grapes. I also had the chance to bath in a public hot spring bath、as well as in a bath of red wine. It was a very interesting experience and very relaxing. The next trip was on Christmas day, this time to another temple, another hot spring bath, then to a famous hot spring where eggs are boiled in and sold as a traditional Japanese specialty. Though not quite the Christmas I was expecting when I came to Japan, it was a fun experience, and it was nice to talk with some of these older, college exchange students. The last trip was to a sumo match. Though I had already been to one sump match, it was nice to go again. This time I was able to notice many more of the strict, ceremonial movements preceding each bout.
*Unfortunately, I have lost my question sheet and do not remember the next questions. Instead, I will write freely on a few different aspects of my exchange here.
Studies into Traditional Japan and the “Japanese Heart.”-
Aikido: Within the first month of my stay in Japan, I began studying Aikido-a recently created branch of traditional Japanese martial arts. I had hoped to study this at my high school, but a club only existed in the affiliated middle school and university. I was not allowed to study at the college, and so I began practicing Aikido (as well as a few other, more traditional marital arts) with the middle school students. At the same time, my host father/counselor talked to a Rotarian in his Rotary club to see if I could study at that Rotarian’s dojo (a martial art place of study). This Rotarian said that he would love to have me there and I soon began to study at the dojo. As it turns out, however, this Rotarian was no ordinary man who happened to own an Aikido dojo; he is the grandson of the founder of Aikido, and by Japanese standards (as both his grandfather and father have passed away), he is the living embodiment of Aikido itself. While I have been studying at the dojo for 7 months, going anywhere from 1-6 times per week, I have not yet attended his 6:30 am class. It was not until recently that I learned that I am even allowed to attend the class. Regardless, now that school is back in session, I am hoping to go before school starts in the morning and make the 6:30 class a regular part of my schedule. Through the dojo, I also recently received the opportunity to take a 2 day trip to the hometown (and gravestone) of the Founder. Soon, I will be traveling to the Ceremonial Shrine of Aikido, where the Founder spent the end of his days continuing his search for true enlightenment and harmony with the Universe.
Aikido has been great mental and physical training. The training is done in pairs, with one person “attacking” and the other “defending.” The “attack,” however, is only simulated, as no violence is allowed in Aikido. Aikido literally means “the way of harmonizing with ki/universe” (Ai=harmony, Ki=universe, spirit, “life force, etc., Dou= the way of). To successfully “perform a move,” I must learn to do so without using any strength or wasting energy. While I have undoubtedly improved, it is only through years and years of training that I can begin to actually correctly do so. Talks of “harmonizing with the universe” certainly tends to provoke smirks from listeners, but it is something that permeates throughout almost all of the traditional Japanese arts, as well as what I see as a big piece of the heart of Japan and its people. This strive towards perfection is easily seen in the other martial arts and calligraphy I study at school, as well as the tea ceremony I study on Saturdays, and yet I am quite sure that it exists throughout the culture in many ways I cannot yet see. While each art naturally has its individual differences, they all seem to be linked in how to reach the desired destination. One must practice rigidly structured movements again and again until the art becomes complete muscle-memory and can be performed in total relaxation, without conscious thought. Part of the beauty of it all in my eyes is how the same process can be used in so many different aspects of life. I certainly know that many sports players would agree with the philosophy, referring to being “in the zone” and performing with barely any thought. Its range in the traditional Japanese arts is also quite fascinating, considering the strict rules of the tea ceremony (where the actions of one’s feet, hands, and just about everything else are predetermined) vs. the freedom of more artistic studies such as flower arranging, music, and many forms of martial arts.
I study tea ceremony approximately 2 times a month after school on Saturdays. Again, I have been incredibly lucky to have been placed into a Rotary Club of a region in central Tokyo, as I have the opportunity to study in what is basically the top teahouse in Japan for my studied style (while only slightly different from each other, there are a few different styles of tea ceremony). In January, Prime Minister Koizumi went for his annual visit to drink tea there. It is a beautiful, traditionally styled building with many areas dating back to over 400 years ago when the headmaster built his private teahouse. The only problem in my eyes, however, is that only about 2 of the other inbound exchange students even seem to have interest in the lessons, so we cannot experience the “excellence” of where we are studying to the fullest extent possible. Regardless, it still is an amazing opportunity, and I am sorry that I cannot go more often. The classes are in Japanese, making them quite difficult to understand at first, but now they are much more understandable. Recently, it has been nice now to get past the basic movements and understand much of the meaning of the tea ceremony. The tea ceremony is very much about service, which is an incredibly large part of Japanese culture itself. The server of the tea must do as much as possible to make the guest feel welcome, and the extent at which one will go to in order to do so is incredible. The ceremony begins as the host opens the door and bows to the guests, and throughout the ceremony the utensils are constantly being “purified.” Much of the attempt at service cannot even be seen by the guest, however, as it takes place in the preparations before the ceremony begins. The tea is repeatedly sifted by hand to keep it in a fine powder. The room is carefully arranged, and always includes a hanging piece of calligraphy or sumi (charcoal) painting, along with a small flower arrangement. The stone path leading to the tea room is purified with water, and often even dried by hand soon before the guest arrives in order to prevent them from accidentally slipping. A truly good host will even clean the leaves of all of the surrounding bushes by hand, all for the sake of making a perfect environment for the guest.
The value placed on service in Japan is nothing less than incredible. Many stores and hotels have attendants at the entrance to open doors for you, bow, and welcome you into the building. Such service is also commonly seen on the elevators. If you ask a question most workers will go more than out of their way to answer the question or fill your request. The value on service roots back even to the Samurai, which literally means “one who serves.” Their one main purpose in life was to serve the emperor and shoguns who ranked above them, and they would gladly give their own lives in order to do so.
While service is one of the main aspects of the tea ceremony, there are also many more. There is a “Wabi-Sabi” beauty-in-what-is-plain peace aspect, which involves smooth, relaxed, and very fine moments. Nature also holds great importance in the tea ceremony. The tea room walls, flower vase, tea bowl, and water basin are made of clay, and the floor mats, as well as most of the utensils used are of bamboo. Colors are also important, and tend to be subdued, natural ones. Even the sweet eaten before the tea is made to represent the season and nature. Watches, jewelry, cellular phones, etc. are all removed before the ceremony in order to forget about time, social status, and the “outside world.” Even some of the traditionally Japanese views on beauty and philosophies regarding life can be seen in the tea ceremony. For example, it is said that a perfect balance exists between the bitter tea and the sweet “O-kashi” eaten before drinking.
Recently, I have been questioning myself about the place of “Wabi-Sabi” in the tea ceremony, as the tea bowls and a few of the utensils used can range from being incredibly simple to being elaborately decorated with gold and other flashy, expensive materials. I am still searching for an answer beyond my own current guess that simplicity is simply one form of a “beautiful” tea ceremony. Throughout Japanese culture there always seems to be a great deal of contrast (even conflict) between simplicity, nature, and beauty in flaws vs. complexity, flamboyance, luxuriousness, and mechanical perfection. Both seem to be appreciated by the Japanese at the same time.
Overall, the tea classes are enjoyable, and I feel incredibly lucky for the opportunity. Relatively few people in Japan, especially teenagers my age, have ever even studied tea ceremony. I do wish that the other students were more interested in it, but it sure seems to be something I can’t change. Instead, I am trying to find ways outside of these Rotary lessons to practice/participate in tea ceremony. A good friend from Aikido also studies tea, and I recently went to a big event held by her place of study. Out of a few hundred participants, I was one of about 10 people below age 35 (and of two below 25), one of around 5 men, and the only foreigner, but it was quite fun. I was only drinking the tea, but it was nice to be among so many people who truly enjoyed the art, and I hope to be able to participate in a similar event again.
For quite a while now I have wanted to study the Shamisen, a traditional three stringed Japanese instrument (it is played like a guitar, but has no frets and is therefore much like a violin or cello). The exotic sound of the Shamisen is very appealing to me, and I like the traditional Japanese philosophies that exist with the Shamisen-ones I wouldn’t come across while studying a western instrument. It is something I really hoped to study, but my chances of doing so have become slim. While I was able to meet my host grandmother’s teacher, practically speaking, I couldn’t take lessons because of my lack of available free time. I still have a little hope for when I return to America and begin studying in New York, but my guess is that time will again be too limited to allow me to commit myself to studying the Shamisen.
Japanese Language-
Man is this ever a tough language. There are two phonetic writing systems: one used for Japanese words and the other used for foreign names and words taken from foreign languages (e.g. escalator = esukare-ta [es-ka-ray-ta]). These aren’t very difficult, and are learned much like the ABC’s of the Arabic Alphabet. The problem is the Kanji (pictorial letters). As if making a different picture for a different word wasn’t hard enough for the Japanese, someone decided that each kanji should have 2…3…4…even 6 or more readings. How to read a kanji can change if it’s placed next to other kanji, if it is or isn’t followed by certain letters of the phonetic system, or occasionally, if you just feel like (particularly used for artistic purposes in poems and songs). Often I will find that I understand the meaning of a sentence, but simply cannot read it as I don’t know which way to pronounce the kanji. This is even a problem for many Japanese, especially younger students, who often stumble on the pronunciation of words when reading a piece of writing out loud. Names are also fun, considering that they have their own independent readings for kanji. Then, of course, in order to properly speak Japanese you must conjugate your verbs differently and add or remove words to what you are saying depending on the age, sex, rank, etc. of those to whom you are talking to. The rules for doing so are so complex and still beyond me that I won’t even try to explain. Regardless of all this, however, my language skills have immensely improved. My lack of vocabulary occasionally gives me trouble, but I can almost always get across what I intend to say. I can hold a normal conversation, and I rarely have to translate in my head from English to Japanese. To tell the truth, I often find myself at a blank for a word in English, though I know its Japanese counterpart (e.g. I once couldn’t remember the translation for sotsugiyoushiki-graduation ceremony). Television shows and movies are still a bit too hard to completely understand, but I can almost always understand the gist of things. The regular classes are also quite difficult to understand, though I have recently found myself being able to understand a good portion of the lectures.
Host Families-
My host families have all been pretty wonderful, though all with their up and down sides. The first I really became very close to. I lived in an apartment by myself below them; their cooking was often very Chinese; they spoke a bit of English, and they were so busy with work that they often couldn’t come home before 11 or 12 o’clock at night…but I still was incredibly satisfied with them. While their work did keep them very busy, I truly feel that everything they did was in my best interest. I often received long Japanese lessons from my host father; they found many, many special, once-in-a-lifetime chances for me to participate in; I truly felt more than welcome in their home.
The second host family was also very nice. While I no longer received private Japanese lessons, it was great to finally be able to live everyday life with a Japanese family. Also, because they could barely speak any English, they didn’t resort to translation whenever I didn’t understand something or whenever something was important. I was finally being forced to use Japanese…in a very much sink or swim fashion. It was through living and talking with this family that I finally learned how to use all of the knowledge that I had gained from my first host father. It was with this family, however, that I had my only real problems during the exchange, though it was only during the last two weeks of my stay with them that the problems arose. To make a long story short, we all made many mistakes, but in the end everything has worked out, I believe. Though it was a very difficult time for me, I do believe that I learned a lot about human relations, Japan, and myself. It was difficult, but I am glad in many ways that what happened did.
The third family was also great. My host mother always tried to teach me whatever she could think of regarding Japanese culture. I had a wonderful 25 yr. old host brother, who I often went out together with. We played pool, went to a public bath, a golfing range, a shopping and entertainment center by the ocean, as well as did many other things, including eating many dinners together. He was a great brother and friend, and though I only talked to him in Japanese, he studied at a college in America for two years, so he could usually help me when I was stuck on how to say something in Japanese. There was also an adorable two year old host niece who often came to the house to visit, and I was very sorry to see her go when I had to change to my next host family.
My current, fourth family is also very nice. Though they are much harder to understand than any of my past family members, they are very helpful. The current host father is the only one of my five families who is not a Rotarian. I am being hosted by them as his son used to study at the same high school I am currently studying at, and is now studying at a high school in Connecticut. I met the son once during a vacation, and hope to see him more after I return to America. I also have a 12 year old host brother going to the Gakushuin elementary school (I am at Gakushuin High School). He is quite loud, and a bit of a “difficult” son/brother, but it is the first time in my life having a younger brother, and I think that it is a fun experience.
My next family seems like it will be very nice. I met everyone in the family (mother, father, & sister) during a previous Rotary bus tour, and they all seem very nice. They also will be the most traditional of all of my families, which may make my last days in the country quite interesting. Unfortunately (perhaps), they live a little ways outside of the main part of Tokyo. Three of my previous host families have lived right in the center of the city, within a 3 minute walking distance to very useful train/subway stations. From my next host family’s house, however, I will have to change trains at least twice to get any where that I will want to go, including school. Still, I guess it is little at all to complain about.
School-
I am going to Gakushuin Senior Boy’s High School, the Japanese Royal Family’s high school (every member of the royal family has gone through this school system, all the way from their kindergarten to their college). It is an all boys’ school, and is on the University’s campus. It is a very difficult school to enter, and is also quite famous school, as almost every Japanese citizen knows of it. Like all other Japanese students, I must wear a school uniform (the old Japanese naval uniform) everyday. The school, however, is much more lenient than most other high schools (at least those of similarly high rank). I would love to go on and explain a lot more about it, but I simply do not currently have the time. It really is a wonderful school, however, and I am so glad to have been chosen to go here. Perhaps one of the only things it needs is female students (just kidding).
Food-
Fortunately, I happen to like Japanese food, and have slowly been able to get used to the foods that gave me trouble when I first came here. I am now quite used to the fish, rice, raw egg, and natto (a stringy, smelly, soybean-like food you cannot understand until you’ve tried it), which I eat every morning for breakfast. Most of my meals, including both dinners and school lunches, involve many things I had never seen before I came to Japan, but I think that I have grown to enjoy almost all of them.
The food here really is nice, though. It is almost always presented in a beautiful manner, and often the sweets are so adorable that you almost do not want to eat them. It is also nice having smaller portions, as well as knowing that most of the food is much healthier than that in America. Even the sweets often border on being “healthy,” and are usually quite subtly sweetened, making them more edible than some of the overpoweringly sweet cakes and candies I often ate in America. Of course, almost anything that is popular in America is also popular here, so if I am craving something particular, I can usually find some version of it fairly easily.
Fun/Play-
I go to karaoke a lot. I do many other things as well, including billiards, movies, shopping, cafes, museums, and a whole lot more…but I really do go to karaoke a lot. Singing is always something I have loved to do, and singing in Japanese is great practice for my ability to speak the language. I think that it will be something that I will really miss when returning to America, and I hope that I will be able to find some form of it when I am living in New York.
Once-a-lifetime-opportunities-
Going to Japan. I think that alone would have been enough to satisfy me, but the lucky breaks did not end there. I sometimes can’t understand how I have managed to be so lucky. I was placed in the center of Tokyo. I am going to the Emperor of Japan’s high school. I have had incredibly good families. Half-way up Mt. Fuji, I have during an all night drum festival created by a Grammy Award winning Taiko drum player. He played the drums especially for me as I performed. Also, the weather was amazing and the sunrise unusually clear (almost all of the other years the drum festival had experienced poor weather). I helped carry a portable shrine in a festival celebrating the 400th year anniversary of the creation of Edo. This was something that almost no Japanese people get to do, even if they want to. I am studying at the world headquarters of Aikido, with the grandson of the founder of Aikido. As part of my martial arts training I got to get up at 4:30 in the morning in order to wear a small piece of cloth and throw freezing cold water all over my body during the coldest time of the year. While freezing, to be able to do such a traditional ceremony that so few Japanese participate in was an amazing experience. I am studying Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony at one of Japan’s best places of study. I went to the ZagatSurvey’s number one rated Sushi restaurant in Japan, and ate over $200 worth of sushi in one night. I got to eat sushi made by what is said to be the best sushi in Japan (I believe it was unlisted in Zagats) during my host grandfather’s 90th birthday…all in the comfort of my host family’s home. I even got to eat a piece of sushi worth $15 (yes, only one piece. It was good). I have been on countless trips through the Rotary Youth Exchange Program, my host Rotary Club, my host families, and my school. These trips have included everything from ski trips in Hokkaido (the northern island of Japan), to countless old towns in Japan, sumo matches, festivals, and so much more. To think that almost every single one of these unforgettable opportunities was provided by Rotary or Rotarians! I cannot thank any of you enough. While they all have been amazingly fun opportunities, perhaps the most amazing thing about all of them is how much I can learn during such enjoyable times. The same goes for my everyday life here as well. Even without any of these amazingly rare opportunities, I would still be having the time of my life and would still be learning more than I could in year after year of high school. This exchange truly is indescribable.
Culture-
There is simply too much to talk about here. Too much I have seen; too much I have experienced. There is just so much to a culture, especially in how each aspect is so closely related to one another that you simply have to experience it to even begin to understand. Then again, there are many, many things I do not but slightly yet understand.
There is a constant conflict between a love of nature and technology, as well as the traditional world vs. the new-a conflict which I now can much better understand due my own plans to study engineering in college (before I came to Japan).
After first arriving in the county it is easy to see the importance of service in the country. Companies and restaurants bend over backwards to please customers. People open doors for you and welcome you inside their store. All of the workers, waiters, attendants, etc. thank you for coming to their store as you leave, even if you purchase nothing. Nearly everywhere you go, you feel welcome. This, however, permeates very deep into the culture, making simple human relations often quite difficult. There are often times when someone will be nice to and even invite you to their home, even if they strongly dislike you. This is no joke, it actually happens. It is part of the desire to avoid conflict and keep things running smoothly. Unfortunately, it can make people’s true emotions very difficult to understand, and it had me a little paranoid during part of exchange. Of course, the younger generation tends to be much more frank in conversation, and there is a general trend toward western culture/conversation, but many similar cultural differences can often still be seen. For example, in conversation the Japanese are very quick to apologize. Even if you think the other person is at fault, by apologizing yourself (in reality, both people apologize), it is said to smooth things over more quickly and keep human relations running. Unlike in America where finding out the truth is incredibly important, doing so is simply not necessary in many Japanese conversations.
One aspect of Japanese culture I find fascinating, and often find myself agreeing with, is the traditional view on beauty. Recently, the sakura (cherry-blossom) trees were in bloom, and I soon learned how much the Japanese cherish this flower. There are hundreds of songs regarding the flowing, most entitled simply “sakura.” The verb which literally translates to flower-viewing does not actually mean viewing any type of flower, it means to sit and party under a sakura tree. Also, the word “to bloom,” happens to be saku, which you may notice is incredibly similar to sakura. The sakura blossom is the symbol of the imperial family and therefore as well as my school; two golden blossoms even crest the neck of my school uniform. They are also a big representation of graduation throughout Japan, as almost all students graduate during the time that the trees are blooming. It seems interesting to me that it works out such that the sakura blossoms are sign of graduation, due to how most Japanese view the beauty of the flower. What is said to be most beautiful about the sakura blossoms is how quick their bloom ends. After around two weeks of bloom, the tree becomes filled with green leaves and the flowers all fall off. Long before you can grow tired of the flowers, they have already left, and that make them even more beautiful (perhaps that is not the true reason-I think I know more that their being beautiful for only a short time *is* admired, not why). This view of beauty can be seen throughout Japanese history. A samurai’s suicide was seen as very honorable and beautiful. Even kamikaze pilots, boys who had just graduated high school and entered battle with the sole intent of dying for their country, were said to be beautiful like sakura blossoms.
One of the most difficult things in trying to learn about Japanese culture, however, is how it is constantly changing. As we live in a dynamic universe, as time passes it is only natural that all cultures will change. It seems to me, however, that Japanese culture is changing quite rapidly. Before Japan was forced to open itself to the rest of the world by Commander Perry in 1854, Japanese culture changed very little. Nearly all foreign inventions, religions, etc. were banned by the government, so rather than the culture seeing drastic changes, it became more and more concentrated. It was during this time that the Noh and Kabuki plays, tea ceremony, martial arts, calligraphy, etc. were refined. When Japan was finally forced to “open its doors,” it extremely quickly adapted to the outside world, doing its best to “catch up.” To me, however, it still seems like many Japanese are trying to become more and more western. That is not to say that they in any way have not yet “caught up to the rest of the world,” it is simply that most people I come across show a desire to be seen as more western. Well, regardless…things are changing, and it sometimes gives me a ton of trouble in understanding some parts of the culture.
Whether I feel I understand different aspects of Japanese culture or not, I must send my deepest of all possible thanks to all of you for giving me the opportunity to experience everything I am; for giving me the reason to truly think about Japanese culture and the world as a whole. By leaving my own culture, I now come across so many different views of the world and of America. And I feel a much stronger connection to my country and my country’s actions. Even though I view myself as an individual, I can never pull myself away from the groups that I am composed of. My actions represent my school, my family, Rotary, America. Just the same, I realize that the actions of other students my age, the actions of Rotary International, and the actions of my country affect me and how others view me, whether I like it or not. Because of all of this, it makes me not only more aware of the issues of America, it makes me feel like it is up to me to make a difference in how my country acts, even if I am just one puzzle piece among millions. At the very least I feel that I have to do my part.
By living in another culture, there is also so much more meaning to thinking about the problems affecting that country-my second home. Now that I have 5 families and hundreds of friends living in Japan, the risk of a terrorist attack on Tokyo becomes so much more real. It is no longer just word on a piece of newspaper. It has become something that affects people I truly care about, and it therefore affects me. To simply read about the horror of the atomic bomb dropped in Nagasaki means so much less than to live with a family who’s two children are often stricken with sever sickness as well as several permanent illnesses, all caused by radiation from the bombs. Even now, years and years after the bombs were dropped, I can still directly see the effects dragging my two host siblings down every day. And it scares me in many ways. I think about technology and my own plans to study engineering, and it makes me stop and think about what I want for my future. What do I want to study? What do I want to become? What is truly important to me? How will my actions affect the future? I am finally asking myself questions that I never really gave myself time to ask when I was back in America.
It is because of these constant thoughts, these amazing opportunities, this once-in-a-lifetime experience that I cannot even begin to explain and give it the justice it deserves, that I want to help Rotary and Rotary Youth Exchange as much as I possibly can. I owe you so much, and the students who are missing these chances deserve to learn about the wonder of the Rotary International Youth Exchange Program. Also, I would like to apologize if this doesn’t come across as wonderful as it should. For so many reasons I don’t think that this can possibly display my true feelings on my experience, and Japan, nor the extent of my gratitude to Rotary International and everyone who made this possible. The opportunities that I have been given are simply indescribable, and I am doing everything I can to take advantage of them all. Thank you so, so very much.
Sincerely,
Todd Spitz
(aoimeshiruba@hotmail.com)
(http://www.livejournal.com/users/ToddinJapan)
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As for a quick update for what I've been up since I wrote the report:
Have I ever been busy this month. I spent a few days with my grandmother who came to visit Japan. I brought her to my school and she met two of my host families. I went to the ocean with the incoming freshman at the High School (Graduation is in March and the new school year in April). I toured Tokyo Bay with the other Rotary Exchange Students, but understood little of the very technical Japanese used to explain the importance of the port to Japan and its economy. I went on a traditional house-shaped boat with my Host Rotary Club to participate in flower watching. I went to a speech made by the president of my University when he came to Tokyo. I met with a Japanese exchange student that I had hosted back in America three years ago. I went with other exchange students to one Rotex’s father’s lacquer exhibit (his father is a famous lacquer painter). I went on a two day trip to Kyoto with my host family during a Japanese holiday. I went with my host brother to a soccer match on National Children’s Day. I went to a modernized Kabuki play (in modern Japanese) with my school. I had a wonderful birthday party at a Brazilian Restaurant with a bunch of friends. Yesterday, I carried another portable shrine (this time with other Rotary Exchange Students). It was during one of the largest festivals in Tokyo-the Sanja Matsuri (Three Shrine Festival). During a typical year, 1 million people come to watch and celebrate the festival. I have also been loaded with homework and projects which take a lot of time. But what has been keeping me the most busy-what made me pull many late, late nights and even two all-nighters (one two days before my birthday!), is a translation I am currently trying to finish up. I am making English subtitles for a 70 minute “how-to-firedance” instructional video made by some of my firedancing friends in Tokyo. The problem is that they are going to professionally sell the video, so even when I am receiving no pay for the job, I feel like I must do my absolute best. I have found out very quickly that translating, especially when creating subtitle, is not easy. I find great pleasure out of helping these friends, but I often wish that I had more time to work on the project.
Overall, this month has been tiring, but wonderful, just like all of the others. I have not been to Aikido in a while, but am excited about starting lessons again tomorrow.
Also coming up, I have the Rotary International Annual Conference to go to (I have heard that around 50,000 people will be there!). I have to write a quick speech to read to the other exchange students for a speech contest. Next month, I have a slightly longer and much more official speech summing up my stay in Japan. It will be to the same exchange students and Rotex, but there will also be many guests including host families, teachers, etc. The culmination of the speeches, however, will be on June 21st. I will be making a 30 minute speech for my Host Rotary Club, the club that has supported me and my stay for the whole year. To make things even better, my parents will be visiting me in Japan at the time, so they will be present during the speech. Talk about pressure!
Alright...well I really should get going. But I hope that you all are having an incredible time back in America. I am returning July 20th, so it won't be long before I will be able to see many of you.