I know I have pretty much abandoned this place, but for this trip I needed a space I could post this. I just got back from San Juan Island in Washington State. A place I have always wanted to go to and see, despite living here all my life. This was the result.
September 3rd, 2016
I know when I write these up that I am going off the events of the previous day for the most part. So this post describes some of the events that occurred on the 2nd of September, though I am actually on the fourth, LOL!
Anyway, got up nice and early at dad's place, packed everything up, then went out and got him coffee while he got up. He made me breakfast and I relaxed a bit before loading up the car. It was starting to rain and I realized I was behind time a little bit, plus I was concerned about making sure I got to the ferry terminal. Too many things on my brain! I should have known better...
Left dad's at nine o'clock to a piss pouring rain. Seriously, the skies opened up and dumped about four inches of driving rain as I was trying to negotiate traffic and congestion through downtown Everett. Dark and wet and nasty. After a bit, well past Marysville, it lightened up, traffic spread out a bit more and I was able to just settle back and drive. By about ten o'clock I was approaching the exit to Anacortes thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to stop and make sure I had a full tank before going to the island. So I looked down at my purse to get my wallet out so I could get gas.
My purse wasn't in the car.
Yeah, that feeling suddenly hit me like a ton of bricks.
You know the rest of this story... Everything was in my purse. Phone. Money. Credit cards. Address book. Even if I had a phone to make a call I couldn't have because I didn't know dad's number. All I had was my reservations and ticket to get the ferry. I drove all the way to the terminal believing I would totally miss any sailing for the day and knowing full well I was going to have to miss my reservation. It is now a quarter to eleven. My sailing was supposed to be at 11:55am.
The lady at the terminal told me that there were spots available on the two o'clock sailing and I figured if I couldn't get that I could possibly get the sailing afterwards. If that weren't possible, I would have to cancel my reservations.
So I turned the Cruiser around and started the ninety minute drive back to dad's place in Lynnwood.
Walking in his door, I saw the purse just sitting where I had left it on the end of the bed and my dad telling me how he had tried to call and call and call and was deciding whether or not he could have chased me down the highway. I just asked him if I had egg on my face and big fat "S" for Stooopid written on my chest. He teased me about it all and I told him I had thought to call him and set up a halfway point to meet but I couldn't because I didn't have my phone. You know, because it was in my purse which I had just left at my dad's place! Dummy.
I got on that phone and called the inn to tell them my sob story and that if I couldn't make any sailings, I would call them back to let them know I had missed the ferries.
By now it's noon, and my ferry had just sailed without me.
Anyway, I get back into the car around noon, got the car filled with gas, and started the trek all over again. This time with no driving rain and partially sunny skies.
I arrived back at the terminal at about twenty minutes to two thinking that I had missed this sailing as well. The line was pretty congested getting to the booths and its a first come first serve basis for these things. God was very merciful though! I got the reservation honored and pulled into a lane to await getting on board. To a huge deal of relief!
They put me dead center of the ferry, and one row back from the end, which meant I was in the first row of cars to be off loaded at Friday Harbour when we got there. The sailing was gorgeous! It's fun to see new areas for the first time and the weather was just fine. Visibility was crystal clear except out at the far horizon where it got a bit hazy. Still, it was beautiful!
Friday Harbour is a pretty well relaxed, very eclectic place, and my directions to the inn were very good. I drove right in and got checked in where I told Missy, whom I had spoke to earlier, exactly what had happened. It was soooo good to get there at last!
My room, as expected, was up two flights of stairs and is huge, roomy and spacious and crystal clean. The view isn't all that spectacular, the library roof for the most part, but I am not here for a room with a view! Still, the inn itself is practically a park with many flower baskets, the spa and lots of nooks to sit and relax in. And you can't really tell you are right on the bend of a main road!
Got unloaded and headed into town. Flower baskets everywhere you look and they are huge! Big globes of flowers with at least six feet of trailing Creeping Charlie hanging from each one. Tons of people from all over the world wandering the streets. A live band playing, very colorful and pretty.
Missy had given me advice about where to park for the grocery store so I could stock up a bit. She also proved a treasure fount of knowledge and gave me three maps with wonderful directions about how to circumnavigate San Juan Island. About five o'clock I set off to explore the San Juan Scenic Byway...
She pointed out several local features, including Mona the camel and her friend Lisa the llama, also Popeye, a resident Harbour seal who I did not get too see. Driving on the island does not go over 45 miles per hour it's mostly around 35 mph, and in a lot of places due to curves and hills it's 20 mph. Then add tourists like me. Knowing this as I started the counterclockwise drive to Roche Harbour, I noticed a few cars behind me and instantly pulled off the road to let them pass. I was in some farm land areas, with big fields and patches of forest here and there. And a herd of five deer, possibly more.
Looking out my drivers side window, I got a birds eye view of Mona and her friend Lisa! Cue the picture taking. I had no idea I had pulled up right next to their field.
(Mona and Lisa)
Missy had said it would take about an hour and half to drive around the whole island. So I figured I would do just that since it was about 5:00 - 5:30 and doesn't get dark until around seven. Off I went.
Visited Roche Harbour first, actually it's a resort town. It was packed with people and boats, and I realized a wedding was in progress. Did a mini tour from the car and set off for English Camp park.
The drive was gorgeous and the weather perfect. Lots of maples, cedars, firs and hawthorns, wild roses, salal and the beautiful Madrona trees you don't get to see much of anymore. Little farms were tucked here and there in any field you could find. Local venders selling anything from cut flowers to really wild looking metal items with smokes stacks... Eggs for sale, firewood, lavender... A unique system.
(Pacific Evergreen Madrona)
First park to go by was English Camp, then San Juan county park followed by Lime Kiln. It was here I began to get glimpses of the sea! I could go on about how spectacularly beautiful it is here. On this drive I slowed for a doe and her fawn, half grown, who tip toed across the road in a most leisurely fashion, then I drove on towards American Camp. The views above Lime Kiln were incredible! Hello Canada! I only drove around a small bit of Cattle point and American camp as I was getting really hungry and I wanted to be able to find my way back. This portion of the island begins to be a pretty even mix of forest patches and honest to goodness prairie!
It was a great drive and got me fairly well orientated for what was to come the next day. So I headed back into town for dinner. I went to the Cask & Schooner. Fish and chips, very nice, even with their tarter sauce, which was a first for me! (It was different, made with more dill and paprika.) Here was the view from my outdoor table of Cannery Landing.
(Ferry Elwha and two Sea Planes)
Back at the inn, I got into my new swimsuit, long story there, and climbed into the spa for about a half an hour to unknot those kinks in my shoulders from such a long and stressful day. Afterwards I hit the shower, nice and hot and steamy, and relaxed a bit before calling it a night. Lots of exploring to do in the morning!
September 4th, 2016
I seriously doubt I am able to do justice to all the things I saw and did yesterday! I was outside and running by 7:00am. I drove, I hiked, I climbed, and got a teeny bit sunburned despite sunscreen. I was outside nearly all day! I had a marvelous time. Much exploring, many pictures, despite myself, and saw some amazing things!
Of course I headed for Lime Kiln State Park first. I wanted to see whales. I figured the earlier I got there the better. I was practically the first person there. The day was partly cloudy and on the cool side but if I kept moving I was fine. The trails were reasonably marked and I headed immediately to the whale watching point. Of course, there were no whales. A big old heron, lots of small birds, a wonderful great big kingfisher who naturally wouldn't hold still for a picture, the usual batch of seagulls.
The point is naturally incredibly deep right up to shore and the current is killer fast. It's loaded full of kelp and where the ability to hold driftwood is, there was. I wandered around a bit, over to the light house itself, and watched that current race by. It was from here I began to get glimpses of at least two seals. They'd pop their heads out of the water, look around and disappear again. I figured that if the seals were out and active, forget the whales. I was joined in the view watching by a large family of Indian descent who were scattered hither and yon. I pointed out the seal I was watching to three of them and just when I did, we got a sighting of two harbour porpoises. That created a bit of excitement!
There was no way we could get pictures of them, they were just too fast and their breaking the water was pretty infrequent. Still it was exciting to see them in the wild. I hung around for a bit longer, then decided it was time to go find Grandma's cove at American Camp. I started following the trail back to the car, or so I thought, only to find myself following a minuscule trail up a rock and onto a teeny tiny flat of grass.
Only to mutually surprise a doe and her twin half-grown fawns. We surprised each other, only they didn't run. We all just stopped and stared at each other so I was obliged to get pictures. I had obviously been following a deer trail. Which necessitated tracking my way back, leaving the deer in peace. I found the trail proper and headed for the parking lot, resigning myself to not being able to see whales and headed for Cattle Point.
(Doe and Twins)
This area turns into heavy duty prairie and a pretty unique ecosystem. The park itself is huge, covering the entire point at the south end of the island. Saw several more groups of people, couples of course, and their dogs. The hike to Grandmas Cove was a bit longer than I thought and a tad bit steeper getting to the beach itself. And it was tiny! The tide was still on the way out and I was saddened to see plastic mixed in with all the dead kelp and seaweed washed ashore. There was driftwood, and several very large and dead jellies. It was a pretty little beach and deserted. Probably because it was still fairly early. I decided to head back and see what I could make of False Bay, Fourth of July beach and Jakle's Cove.
False Bay was a classic, green seaweed covered mud flat of a beach at nearly low tide when I drove by. It also had that classic tidal flat smell too! I drove on though, deciding not to stop and as I crested the hill I saw the drive for South Beach, but decided not to go. I headed for Fourth of July beach, missed the turn off and headed instead for Jakle's Cove. I decided to pass this one up as well as it was obviously a steep bit of walk to get down to the beach itself. Decided to drive around the tip of Cattle Point, where I saw the lighthouse, a very tiny lighthouse, then decided since it was only about noon to drive back around to Lime Kiln SP again.
Best. Decision. Ever.
As I cruised my way back, I crested the top of the rise, which laid out Haro Strait, Vancouver BC, the Olympic Peninsula in crystal clear clarity as the day was calm, windless and perfectly warm. I saw several cars at the viewpoint parking lot and as I slowly cruised past on I looked out to see the biggest black orca fin in my life! It was followed by that most distinctive sound of exhaling only a surfacing whale can make.
I did an instant left turn into the parking lot, grabbed binoculars and camera and for the next hour or so I got to fulfill a life long dream. Watching Killer whales swimming about in the wild! I had a great view of the whale watching point at the park and you could watch them get into shore really close! I don't know what pod was about, more n likely it was K pod, but there were probably six to nine whales present. Several singles and several groups. You could tell the groups were feeding and the singles were just cruising about, one even breaching. They came from the south and headed north in a very slow parade past the viewpoints. Their sound was so distinctive! That loud exhale of breath could a be heard clear up on top of the ridge where I was parked. It was so exciting to watch them go about their normal lives. I got some pictures, not very good and ended up spending most of the time watching them through the binoculars. What an amazing sight to watch!
(WHALES!!)
It was only noon, and my hearts desire for this place had been mostly filled. I still had not seen the foxes I longed to see, but after this viewing of whales, I was happily content!
I meandered my way around the island some more, taking any through roads I could, stopping at the lavender farm, the alpaca farm where I made the most guilt inducing purchase of my life, but that bear was not going to let me leave the store without him! They had a beautiful silver and black alpaca there, and there were dozens and dozens of the little creatures all over the farm. By now, it was approaching three o'clock, and I was heading in close to town so I thought, let's go to the museum.
This place was a treasure trove of information about the resident whales of the islands. It was a tad confusing at first which way to go but I finally got oriented and went thought the whole museum. The gift shop was pretty nice and I got a few cards and a book while I was there. The only thing was that I found the telling of the story of Sooke, and the more well known whales like Ruffles, and Raggedy, terribly sad, and they did much to work on people's guilt about the protection these creatures need. People get it folks, they need protection, just don't rub the sadness in. Anyway, I headed back out, picked up a lovely Corn Chowder from the supermarket and headed back to the inn to eat dinner.
But I couldn't sit still, after eating I had to get back into the car and finish driving the interior of the island, just to say I could! Somehow or another I ended up back on the road to Fourth of July beach and since I was traveling much lighter I decided to give it a try. Good call!
Turned out the hike to the beach was very flat and very fast! What a delightful little skinny half moon of a beach. Lots of smooth little rocks for skipping, seashells, sea grass, driftwood and birds all over the place. It was beautifully calm out as well. There was also a gorgeous and huge male loon in full plumage as well. I just had to watch him for a bit as well. I stayed for quite a little while and when I decided to leave I made the decision to go to South Beach.
Another great call. South beach is huge! A true sand and driftwood beach stretching for at least a mile or more. I saw all this from the top of the rise on Picketts road. I could see the drive in, several different parking spots and thought I spotted some whales so I decided to give this beach a try. As I headed that way I glanced over the section of prairie to my right and spotted a bunny. Then another one, then a few more, then... I kid you not in saying the amount of rabbits in that field where well into the hundreds. They were literally everywhere!
And that was only one colony. Approaching the drive down to the beach there were several more on the way. I decided to make my way to a parking lot at the end of the beach and hike myself over the driftwood and sand to see what I could see. I never made it that far. I noticed something odd immediately to my right on a nearby ridge as I made my way slowly down the dirt track. It moved. I whipped out my binocs, opened the window and focused.
I got my fox sighting at last!
Oh he was gorgeous! And big! Silky black (he was shiny in the right light) with a thick bushy tail and a very snow white tip. Oh that glorious tail. He was very busily hunting and being watched by a rabbit on the hill. Apparently my interest got several other visitors interest and pretty soon we had quite the audience going for this guy! The reactions as he would pounce and eat was pretty funny. He got close enough for me to try for pictures and after about an hour of this, I finally headed out. I got to the view point up above the beach, parked and got out to watch the sunset, and got an up close visit from another little fox, a true red fox this time, being watched by a very wary warren of rabbits on the hill. Took lots of pictures and as I watched him a third fox made an appearance but I couldn't get a good look at this one. It was time to drive on.
(Black San Juan Fox)
(He was gorgeous!)
(Little San Juan Red Fox)
(Look above the fox in the dirt patch, there were GaurdRabbits!)
Went out to Cattle Point proper, got some pictures of the lighthouse and started back. Didn't go far. Right next to the road, in very tall grass, was a pair of deer. I stopped right next to them, got their pictures, pulled forward a little way to get off the road, got a few more pictures and started to make the drive back into town.
Got half way up the crest of the hill and drove past something on the road. Stopped, backed up, got out and grabbed a book on North Cascades Day Hikes. There was literally no traffic around! After this I decided, with the light getting away fast, it was time to head back to town. Which is about when I began to notice deer coming out of the woodwork! They were everywhere along this huge prairie like bluff leading to the beaches above Cattle Point. The rest of the drive back I had to make a few courtesy stops to let deer cross the road and by about eight o'clock I was in my suite and getting myself settled down for the night.
What an amazing day it has been!