Kirtle Progress
I started on my kirtle today! I ripped the two skirt panels, and then realized, crap, I'm not sure I ever washed this wool! So while working on the bodice mockup, I threw all the fabric, including the two cut panels, into a delicate cycle, and luckily, it shrunk less than 1" (though it still might make it slightly shorter than I wanted!).
Anyway, I used the elizabethan corset generator to make a pattern, and then tweaked that into a bodice pattern, by mostly following their suggestions. I held up the paper pattern to check fit, and realized I had to re-angle the straps, and cut off a couple inches of length on the straps (I had added extra, so it was probably just removing what I had added). I then used the paper pattern to cut it out in a softened cotton canvas (in fact, it happens to be the exact same canvas I used for one of my Ren corset layers back in 2010).
I tried on the mockup without stays at first, since I was debating about making one of those curved-front Italian style kirtles. But a) it didn't seem like I really needed the curve, and b) there was something funky going on around the armseye. So I decided to try it over my corset, and it fit almost perfectly. I tapered about .5" off the outside of the strap seam, and cut in the armseye about .5 in the front under the arm. And that was it! The nice thing is, that means my mockup can become my lining. :)
I took it apart, and used it to cut out my wool. I had originally bought this wool to make a pelisse, but it's been a couple years, and I've lost all interest in that project, and I liked the soft periwinkle-ish color for a kirtle. I also cut out several strips of navy velvet (left over from my Tudor doublet gown) to use as guards on the kirtle, if I wind up having enough time. After all, I am probably wearing this this weekend! Anyway, I sewed up the lining and the outer pieces, and sewed them right sides together all along the neckline, armseyes, front edges, and partway across the bottom. They have now been turned and pressed, and I have also sewn together my skirt seams, and pressed a narrow hem.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how to level a skirt that I am cartridge pleating? After I do the hem tomorrow, that wil be my next step. I also have to decide whether I want to do a hidden lacing strip under the center front, or do hooks and eyes. Since I'm fairly unfamiliar with this era, does anyone know what was more commonly done?
It's actually been fun to jump right back into sewing after CoCo!
Anyway, I used the elizabethan corset generator to make a pattern, and then tweaked that into a bodice pattern, by mostly following their suggestions. I held up the paper pattern to check fit, and realized I had to re-angle the straps, and cut off a couple inches of length on the straps (I had added extra, so it was probably just removing what I had added). I then used the paper pattern to cut it out in a softened cotton canvas (in fact, it happens to be the exact same canvas I used for one of my Ren corset layers back in 2010).
I tried on the mockup without stays at first, since I was debating about making one of those curved-front Italian style kirtles. But a) it didn't seem like I really needed the curve, and b) there was something funky going on around the armseye. So I decided to try it over my corset, and it fit almost perfectly. I tapered about .5" off the outside of the strap seam, and cut in the armseye about .5 in the front under the arm. And that was it! The nice thing is, that means my mockup can become my lining. :)
I took it apart, and used it to cut out my wool. I had originally bought this wool to make a pelisse, but it's been a couple years, and I've lost all interest in that project, and I liked the soft periwinkle-ish color for a kirtle. I also cut out several strips of navy velvet (left over from my Tudor doublet gown) to use as guards on the kirtle, if I wind up having enough time. After all, I am probably wearing this this weekend! Anyway, I sewed up the lining and the outer pieces, and sewed them right sides together all along the neckline, armseyes, front edges, and partway across the bottom. They have now been turned and pressed, and I have also sewn together my skirt seams, and pressed a narrow hem.
Does anyone have any suggestions for how to level a skirt that I am cartridge pleating? After I do the hem tomorrow, that wil be my next step. I also have to decide whether I want to do a hidden lacing strip under the center front, or do hooks and eyes. Since I'm fairly unfamiliar with this era, does anyone know what was more commonly done?
It's actually been fun to jump right back into sewing after CoCo!