The Delights of Vanilla
I love Vanilla. As a single note, but more so in more complex perfumes. I’ve been thinking lately about how it works in perfumes for me.
I’ve always been into a wide range of fragrances and notes, but I remember before discovering other single notes like amber, myrrh, frankincense, sandalwood and others, along with coconut, vanilla was much favoured.
It was a bottle of Crabtree & Evelyn’s Vanilla edt though, that put me off straight vanilla for a while, not that it wasn’t lovely, but just before getting through 25mls of my 100ml bottle, it felt too plain and sweet, one dimensional. I needed something more. I didn’t really think about it at the time, but vanilla was still there in some of my favourites, like Thierry Mugler Angel and Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison and later in Vivienne Westwood Boudoir and Giorgio Armani Sensi (benzoin), but it didn’t jump out at me as “OI! Vanilla ‘ere!!”
That’s what vanilla does in more complex fragrances, it may not always be a main player, but you can feel its presence. Maybe not on a conscious level, but it’s adding its sweetness and comforting warmth, whether in its most often associated gourmand way or spicy, earthy, floral or incensey way. And that might be from some of its similar smelling friends who I also like:
* Tonka Bean - earthy, caramel nuances
* Benzoin - slightly powdery and incensey
* Heliotrope - a floral vanilla, sometimes with a cherry almond feel…
* Or it could be from synthesised vanilla, see bottom of this page “about new, artificial vanilla odorants”.
* Or what is considered to be the best quality vanilla: Bourbon Vanilla (DSH’s bourbon vanilla smells like a vanilla pod which has been dropped in the dirt to me, it’s got an earthy note with a hint of dark chocolate and rum, not good on its own on me, but lovely with other notes!)
Vanilla has become one of the most popular notes in fragrance, like the notes of rose, jasmine, musk, amber and sandalwood, as it can blend so wonderfully with many other notes too. According to this article on the Smell Report, it was around the early 1990’s when the surge of vanilla scents began. Part of its popularity is because it is so sweet and comforting, but it can also be innocently sexy. I think that’s one reason it’s also popular with teens, and why the big makers in the perfume industry market vanilla-related scents: think of (sorry, but this was the best example I could come up with) Britney Spears' three fragrances; vanilla features heavily in all three of these gourmand, fruity and soft floral perfumes.
Of course, not everyone likes vanilla, some think it should just be reserved for food only. But I think that’s why I love it so much, its sweet foody warmth, but also its versatility to be something different to that if it wants to be.
Anywho, here be some vanillas that I like, I don’t wear them often, but occasionally, I’ll get a wee craving…
Crabtree & Evelyn ~ Vanilla
A cozy, vanilla floral of the orchid variety, I think. It’s not too sweet and just a little cookie-like. I find it very similar to the Body Shop’s vanilla, which I have in the lotion. I checked the Aussie website which does not work, but on the UK site, this Vanilla is nowhere to be found, it may be discontinued.
Lily Prune ~ Sublime Vanilla
Sugary vanilla, very slightly powdery (I'm guessing from the heliotrope?), and amber and sandalwood make this a very lovely scent. Light and airy, but also a touch earthy and sensual. Long-lasting too. The other notes are (from what I could find on the internet): cherry, plum and orange. I can't really smell these fruity notes individually, but there is a touch of fruitiness there.
Interestingly, this inexpensive drugstore/chemist fragrance was created by the nose Jean-Claude Ellena, who created quite a few Hermes and Frederic Malle perfumes, including L'Eau d'Hiver.
Fragonard ~ Vanille
This smells like a vanilla slice to me, light and creamy, but with patchouli and a little zing from ginger, bergamot and cinnamon. There’s soft amber and sandalwood in the base notes too.
L'Occitane ~ Vanille Concentrated Home Perfume
Bliss! This is one vanilla I am tempted to just lick straight off my arm. Caramel, crème brulee and a thick dollop of vanilla icing scooped straight off a vanilla cake. Yep, bliss. I preferred this to the EDT, which didn’t last as long on my skin and though smelt good, was nowhere near as delicious. I think this might be discontinued in Australia, but I just found it on the: USA L’Occitane site, I’m not sure if the formulation has changed though.
Atropa’s Cottage and Dream Esscents ~ Vanilla Bean Single Note
Egg. Custard. Tart. Oh. My. I don’t need to say, I love egg custard tart! These two smell very similar on me, DE’s might have a touch more musk on the drydown though.
La Maison de la Vanille ~ Vanille Noire du Mexique
The notes are vanilla, rose, jasmine, iris, tonka bean and bergamot. But I can't really smell the flowers, I smell food! A Mexican Cheesecake I've had which is tortillas layered with cream cheese, nutmeg and cinnamon to be exact! I also smell semi-sweet chocolate too, but it's not sugary sweet at all. Slightly spicy and slightly soapy on the drydown.
La Maison de la Vanille ~ Madagascar
Heavenly! Madagascar is all snuggly buggly and goes soft and creamy, with sandalwood and lavender coming through beautifully....It's a tad close to Mexique, but Mexique is a bit soapy, which could be the rose and jasmine.
La Maison de la Vanille ~ Vanille Givrée des Antilles Divine
A slightly spicy vanilla...and oddly, I smell spicy coconut and caramelised bananas, although it’s not overly foody and also smells like a very light Thierry Mugler Angel. Other notes are patchouli, rose, tuberose, oppoponax and tonka bean.
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab ~ Eat Me
This is currently my favourite mixed vanilla. Three white cakes, vanilla, and red and black currants. It’s a most tasty treat, although the first time I tried it I was a little ho-hum, it just seemed a general sweetness…but the second time, all the notes just went, “pow”! It is mouthwatering goodness: rich vanilla cake, but in a dry, sweet way, with ultra tart and ripe currants, that have a touch of musk about them. It’s one of the truest vanilla cake scents I’ve smelt, albeit with a very healthy dose of currants! And the sillage is wonderful. I was walking about the office the day I first tried it, and I kept catching it, floating about me, the most gorgeous curranty vanilla: gourmand and very sweet, but it didn’t overwhelm me. Wonderful!
I like some of these single notes on their own, but some are better to layer…
Attar Bazaar ~ French Vanilla
First on, there is a slightly odd ‘green’ note to this. It soon fades though, and becomes a pleasant, rounded, sweet vanilla note, with a distinct cotton candy/fairy floss (strawberry/raspberry) vibe. It has good sillage and every now and then I wonder what the nice smell is and realise it’s me! Don’t need a lot of this one, it’s quite strong.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ Vanille
Essence Oils ~ Notes: Red Fruits, Heliotrope, Sandalwood, Tahitian Vanilla
Another cotton candy vanilla, rounded, sweet and sugary with a touch of raspberry/strawberry note and a little floral. Like Attar Bazaars, if I use more than a few dabs, it can be rather cloying.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ French Vanilla
Essence Oils ~ Notes: French Vanilla
Rich, sweet and rounded. Not too foody, it’s a kind of dark and dusky powdery vanilla, with a dull sweetness and touch of fruitiness. This is totally different to Nothing like Attar Bazaar’s which has that green note, but also smells like etailer cotton candies.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ French Sweet Vanilla
Essence Oils ~ Notes: French Sweet Vanilla
Powdery sweet vanilla, with a hint of caramel and wood.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ Burnt Sugar Vanilla
Essence Oils ~ Notes: Burnt Sugar, Vanilla, Bourbon Vanilla, Tahitian Vanilla
Brown sugar and cotton candy! The dry down goes a tad woody.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz ~ Tonka Bean Notes: Tonka Bean
A light floral vanilla with a little vanilla custard and an unfortunate slightly off plasticky note, would hopefully be better as a base note.