The Versatility of Risotto

[syntart]

ammitnox asked about a basic risotto recipe, and when I sat down to write, it seems as if I have a lot to say about risotto. And, as she is ever wise, she suggested that I post it somewhere on the Internets so I can refer to it later. So, here it is, with a few additional points of commentary. Now, I do have a few risotto recipes that I like, but these two are my go-to recipes. The first one I use a lot because it's a good base from which to add other variations. The second I use when I want something more decadent, like something I'd serve at a dinner party. And, of course, neither of these are as good as my sister GA makes, who doesn't use a recipe and yet always serves delicious risotto; of course, being Italian and growing up with it, I think she has an unfair advantage. I also happen to know that there are several other risotto connoisseurs out there. If you're inclined, please share your tips and recipes. I'm always looking for additional ways to cook one of my favorite dishes.

Before Starting

• When selecting a pot or pan, choose the one with the largest surface area. This helps even out heat and the absorption of liquids.
• Really finelly chop the onion. In the end, the onions should be imperceptible; they should have practically melted into the butter during the sauté phase. Really, really dice them well.
• Use a wooden spoon. For some reason, it just comes out better.
• Consider using beef or vegetable stock. Avoid, if possible, poultry stock, which has a more pronounced flavor and may detract from the other ingredients.
• When starting the risotto, one of the first things to do is to heat up the stock. It should be very hot when you add it to the risotto. Keep it at a low simmer on the back burner until you get to the absorption phase.
• Add the stock slowly. I know one of the recipes say 1 cup at a time, but I go 1/2 cup at a time. The first key to creaminess is the slow absorption of the liquid. If you add too much broth at a time, the liquid sits, and now the rice is boiled.
• Stir constantly. The second key to creaminess is stirring; the agitation contributes to releasing the starches on the outside of each grain. Stir, stir, stir.
• There are two basic categories of risotto. The one we most commonly think of is the Piedmontese/Milanese/Bolognese style. It is thick, creamy, sticky, and goes well with cheeses, mushrooms, meat, etc. This style typically takes about 30 minutes to make and requires a lot more (about 10 min more) stirring than the other category. That category is the Venetian style (risotto all'onda), and it uses more broth and has a soupy consistency. It's best with seafood and vegetables.
• To get actual risotto, you need to use the right kind of high-starch rice. The best ones are Italian (of course) and include Arborio, Carnaroli, and Vialone Nano. In US supermarkets, Arborio seems to be the most common.

Basic Risotto
(from Rice Select)

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 c arborio rice
2 tbls olive oil
2 tbls butter
1/2 c finely chopped onion
3 c broth

Directions

1. Sauté onion in oil and butter for 3 minutes.
2. Add rice, stirring for about 2 minutes.
3. Stir in 1 cup of broth. Continue cooking and stirring until liquid is absorbed.
4. Gradually stir in remaining brother 1 cup at a time, cooking and stirring until liquid is absorbed before adding the next cup.

Commentary

A good, basic risotto recipe becomes the base for hundreds of other recipes. You can add nearly anything to risotto, and it takes especially well to cheese, wines, and seasonal vegetables. Experimenting can be half the fun with risotto. Just keep in mind that you're going for something creamy, so whatever you add should compliment or carefully contrast that quality. Also, some flavors will be more subtle than others (e.g., saffron or mozzarella), so make sure when you're experimenting that you don't overwhelm a delicate flavor like lemon with a strong flavor like gorgonzola dulce.

• For any of the cheese versions, add 1/4 c cheese per 1 c risotto rice in any combination. Appropriate cheeses include Parmigiano-Reggiano, pecorino, mozzarella, gorgonzola dulce, or asiago. More pungent cheeses would work if they're to the diners' tastes. Sharper cheeses (cheddar, etc.) may be more jarring.
• For a richer flavor, remove olive oil and add 2 more tbls of butter.
• For lemon risotto, add the juice of 1 lemon to the broth during the absorption phase. Then fold in the zest of two lemons at the very end.
• For saffron risotto, dissolve 1/2 tsp saffron in 1 cup of the broth that will be used during the absorption phase.
• For almost any sort of vegetable, finely chop and add with onion during the sautéing phase. Then fold in larger pieces of the vegetable at the very end.
• For a more elegant version, substitute 1 c broth for 1 c wine. Dry white wine is the most common addition, but some interesting things can be done with a good dry red. Sweet wines would not work well.
• For a mushroom risotto, add 1/2 ounce reconstituted porcini (or other wild) mushrooms and half of the filtered water mid-way through the absorption phase. Once the filtered water been absorbed, add the second half of the filtered water.

Le Marche Risotto
(from "Cucina of Le Marche")

Serves 6

Ingredients

12 c stock
12 tbls butter
1/4 c finely chopped onion
2 1/4 c Arborio rice
Kosher salt
1 1/4 cups dry white wine
1/4 c pecorino
1/4 c Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/4 tsp cinnamon
Black pepper
1 lemon

Directions

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce the heat and keep at a low simmer.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spatula or spoon, until the onion is soft and translucent but has not browned. Add the rice and 1 teaspoon salt and stir for 1 to 2 minutes to taste the rice. Add the white wine, increase the heat, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the pan is almost dry.
3. Ladle 1/2 cup of the simmering stock into the rice and stir constantly until it is completely absorbed. Continue cooking and adding stock 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly and letting each addition be absorbed before adding the next. After about 16 to 18 minutes, you should have added about 10 cups of stock, the rice should be al dente, and the risotto should be quite thick and creamy. If the rice is not yet al dente, add more stock and continue cooking as necessary.
4. Remove the pan from the heat and gently fold in both cheeses, the remaining 10 tablespoons butter, and the cinnamon. The risotto should be soft and creamy. If it seems too thick, add more stock a spoonful or so at a time. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Using a Microplane or other fine grater, lightly grate lemon zest over each plate. Top with the risotto, finish with the grated pecorino, and serve immediately.

Commentary

Cinnamon is the reason I really love Trabocchi's risotto recipe. While the addition of the 12 tablespoons of butter is truly decadent, it's the unexpected spice that steals the show. According to Trabocchi's book "Cucina of Le Marche," the Le Marche region, which is located in the middle of Italy's east coast and borders the Adriatic Sea, was an important port through which spices flowed. This dish is a great example of how trade influences the development of regional cuisines. With such a variety of spices available, Le Marche's dishes are still the familiar Italian foods we know and love but with an extra, unexpected dimension. It also goes to show the versatility of risotto as a canvas upon which to create some rather interesting culinary art.