Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? by Pamela Keogh (2010)
Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? by Pamela Keogh (2010)
2 - Emulating Jackie Style and Marilyn Style
RX-THE JACKIE LOOK
When going for the Jackie, think East Coast sophistication with a soupçon of Paris style and a dash of the tomboy (okay, okay, we’ll stop with the Julia Child metaphors). The look is clean, classic, somewhat spare without being minimal or overly Comme des Garçons. Very American.
That said, there are a few rules in acquiring Jackie Style.
You wear your clothing; your clothing never wears you.
This is a hard thing to teach, but it has to do with being comfortable in your own skin. This is why JKO (or someone like Audrey Hepburn or even Elvis Presley) never used or needed a stylist. Through trial and (very little) error, she knew what worked for her.
You know when you see an actress or singer on the red carpet and she looks really uncomfortable, like she’s playing dress-up or wearing a costume? Well, that’s not what you want. Ideally, as a Jackie, your style will be a reflection of your life, your experiences, your (dare we say) background. It’s also why you want to nab well-made pieces from your mom, dad, grandfather, one of your brothers, your current boyfriend. Not only is the older stuff generally better made, but it’s your history-wear it!
Make sure your clothing fits you.
We cannot stress this enough. If you do nothing else, make sure your damn clothing fits! (Please, no trousers puddling on the floor or jacket cuffs that are too long.) It takes minutes to go to a tailor and have everything fitted at the waist, the hemline, the cuff.
Get the best stuff you can afford.
To be honest, we’re not wild about buying tons and tons of cheap clothing. Well, maybe a piece or two every few years from H&M, but even then, it’s sort of a goof, right? As a Jackie, you are going to shop more like the French or a Vogue editor-know what you want, buy the best stuff you can afford, take care of it, wear the heck out of it, and at the end of your life, either leave it to the Costume Institute (á la couture goddess Nan Kempner) or your fortunate nieces.
Besides, here’s something we learned from the men in our lives who have their suits “built” (as they say) on Savile Row-we know of no other incentive to keep your waistline in shape than buying good clothing. As an added benefit, you will also hang it up properly and not drop it on the floor.
Keep it loose.
This is a hard thing to impart, but once you have decent clothing, wear it lightly. Don’t wear a single designer all at once. Don’t wear anything that screams label label label. Mix the high and the low-jeans and a pair of Vivier shoes. The main thing is this: You don’t want to seem as if you are trying too hard. Wear Schlumberger on the subway (the chances of anyone knowing what it is are pretty much nil, and besides, it’s insured). You know you are in the Jackie Zone when you can wear a ball gown or a bathing suit as effortlessly as jeans and a T-shirt (or vice versa).
JACKIE’S STYLE FAVORITES
Jackie’s style favorites were a compendium of high-end European designers mixed in with some classic American sportswear. First, the big boys (or girls): Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, YSL, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Carolina Herrera, Hermès handbags. Then, moving on to her more casual, everyday favorites: Lacoste, Lily Pulitzer, Zoran, Roger Vivier buckled flats, Jack Rogers sandals, Manolo Blahnik, Ferragamo, Creed Fleurissimo perfume, Tretorn sneakers, Dunhill cigarette lighter, cotton T-shirts from the Gap, Schlumberger enameled bracelets (pricey!), the occasional jodhpurs worn indoors. And as far as riding in style, she gave a Jaguar as a gift to JFK when he was a senator (and it had to be exchanged for an American car), and in later years she drove a BMW.
And where did Jackie like to shop? Um, anywhere on earth? In New York City, her number-one primo spot was probably Bergdorf Goodman, but she also favored the exclusive emporiums on Madison Avenue-Armani, David Webb, Porthault for linen. In Paris, there were the usual suspects-Hermès, Givenchy and Fogal, where she got her stockings.
RX-THE MARILYN LOOK
When you’re channeling Marilyn, you’re asking for the ultimate va va voom and then some. But remember, part of the reason we are still drawn to MM is her combination of sexual knowingness and innocence- and that particular alchemy is important. When making wardrobe choices, the right decision can mean the difference between being in the Marilyn Zone and looking like Pamela Anderson or Anna Nicole Smith.
It’s all about the waist.
The basic premise of Marilyn Style is this: No matter your dress size (which, if you know what you are doing in terms of fashion, does not really matter that much), if you have a waist, we want to see it. And that means one thing: Cinch it.
If you are less than thrilled with your figure, take a tip from the ladies of Mad Men and utilize some undergarments that can give you the figure you want.
Show some skin!
Listen-you’re gorgeous, you’re fabulous in the sack, you love champagne, everyone in the world wants to go out with you-what the heck-own it! If you have legs, we want to see them. If you have gorgeous arms, a beautiful neck, perfect hands . . . you get the idea. The Marilyn is never afraid to show some skin. What she doesn’t want to do is show too much of it-no belly button (unless she is-lucky world-wearing a bikini). No tramp stamp.
Have a sense of humor.
And again, as we said with Jackie, the best thing about Marilyn Style is that you don’t have to take it (or yourself) too seriously. As a Marilyn Gal, you won’t-this is part of your appeal, after all. Men (and many women and children and dogs) especially hate it when it seems as if someone is trying too hard. So you can be on a first date. You can be walking the red carpet or dripping in diamonds (borrowed from Winston, natch), but it’s always good to take yourself lightly.
MARILYN’S STYLE FAVORITES
Marilyn’s style was more eclectic than Jackie’s. Rather than automatically falling into the classic column, she was a Hollywood starlet who reveled in being photographed. Hence, she took more risks with skintight satin, bright colors, strategically placed bows and polka dots, plunging halter dresses, dangling rhinestone earrings, white fur wraps, peep-toe shoes and some serious (god-given) décolletage.
Like most modern American women, Marilyn mixed casual sportswear with some pricey, one-of-a-kind showstoppers. Although she did not have a ton of clothing for a celebrity of her stature (especially compared to the übershopper Jackie), she took her pieces and, by the very fact that she was wearing them, made them her own. She tended to wear her clothing a good deal and then duck into the wardrobe room at Fox if she needed to borrow something for an awards show or a night out at Romanoff’s.
When she was not in costume on a movie set, Marilyn wore a lot of pure American sportswear-JAX (also favored by Audrey Hepburn and Patricia Kennedy Lawford), Madcap, Geistex, John Moore and Levi’s, Lee or J.C. Penney denim. In terms of designers we might know today, Emilio Pucci was her absolute favorite, as well as Billy Travilla, who designed her iconic white cocktail dress from Seven Year Itch, as well as the hot pink gown she wore while singing “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Marilyn favored Ferragamo heels (in case you were wondering, those were Ferragamo white slingbacks worn while cavorting over the subway grate in The Seven Year Itch). In addition to wearing off-the-rack cocktail dresses, she also had some pricey couture-Norman Norell, Ceil Chapman, Galanos.
When she was in Manhattan, she favored a camel hair coat or a Blackglama mink that was a gift from Joe DiMaggio.
Marilyn did not have much real jewelry-she owned a 16-inch strand of Mikimoto pearls given to her on their honeymoon in Japan (she gave it to the teenaged Susan Strasberg and Strasberg later returned it to Mikimoto in 1998). She had her platinum and diamond eternity wedding band from Joe DiMaggio. (The ring with thirty-five baguette-cut diamonds-one was missing-was later sold at auction for $772,500.)
J+M FIELD NOTES-THE FIVE ESSENTIALS
JACKIE’S FIVE STYLE ESSENTIALS
Sheath dress-Although she didn’t wear them much past 1972, the sleeveless sheath dress still worked when Jackie was having a Camelot redux moment, and the sheath still works today. Some advice? Your arms have to be in very good shape to pull off this look, so don’t neglect those push-ups.
White jeans, or navy blue-JKO was one of those lucky women who looked great in boyishly trim jeans (see also Audrey Hepburn, Kate Moss and Amanda Burden) well into her sixties. Must have been all the speed walking she did around the island of Manhattan, trying to escape the long lens of paparazzo Ron Galella. Although she wore blue jeans in her twenties, nothing says upper class like the white jeans she wore later in sunny Greece or Martha’s Vineyard.
T-shirt-JKO (like her future daughter-in-law Carolyn Bessette) favored Petit Bateau in white, navy blue or striped. Although you can now pick them up stateside, she got hers by the dozen in Paris.
Killer jewelry-And when we say killer, we mean some killer, crazy jewelry-like the gold and ruby ear clips that Jackie’s second husband, Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, got her in 1969 to commemorate man’s landing on the moon. They were a literal representation of the lunar landing, complete with gold spaceships and ruby craters. Made especially for Ari by his jeweler in Greece, of course. But beyond the nutty bibelots, he also got her some extremely serious diamonds from Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Hermès scarf-Tie it under your chin, then put your oversized sunglasses on. Everyone will know it is you, but you can still pretend you are going incognito. Also useful after getting your hair done at Kenneth Salon or Thomas Morrissey’s.
MARILYN’S FIVE STYLE ESSENTIALS
Since Marilyn was so physically compelling, she could wear pretty much anything and look amazing. Hence, the basic Marilyn style MO is: “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.”
Devastating evening dress-Billy Travilla (known simply as Travilla) created some of MM’s most iconographic evening dresses. They first met in 1950, when she asked if she could borrow his fitting room to try on a costume.
They worked together on eight movies-and what movies they were: Monkey Business (1952), Don’t Bother to Knock (1952), Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), How to Marry a Millionaire (1953), There’s No Business Like Show Business (1954), River of No Return (1954), The Seven Year Itch (1955) and Bus Stop (1956). He was nominated for an Oscar for his work on two Marilyn movies, There’s No Business Like Show Business and Bus Stop.
Travilla designed most of Marilyn’s most memorable costumes and helped to sew her into the sheer gold lamé dress she wore (briefly-it was deemed too revealing to pass the censors) in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
Not surprisingly, MM recognized his talent, too. Lifelong friends, she autographed a nude calendar for him with the words “Billy Dear, please dress me forever. I love you, Marilyn.”
Daytime/cocktail dress-Marilyn had such a great figure that she could rock a white halter dress and look amazing. For daytime, she liked color in casual West Coast styles-Pucci or a lime green dress in a soft silhouette. For night, her preferred color was (no surprise) black in either drapey wool or velvet.
Bikini (oh, what the heck)-The string bikini was not in evidence in Marilyn’s day, so hers tended to be fairly high waisted and somewhat prim by today’s standards, although they did reveal her belly button. We have never seen a bathing-suit shot of MM where she was not smiling and looking very happy. So the moral is this: If you are going to wear a bikini, make sure you have gotten a pedicure and own it.
White terry cloth bathrobe (nude underneath)-For relaxing at home or on set between takes while having your hair/makeup done. It has to be thick white terry cloth, tied closure in front. You can be like a real star and nab yours from the Chateau Marmont or the Beverly Hills Hotel.
Beautiful silk slip with lace inserts-This can also double as negligee. (We know that the Marilyn doesn’t actually wear a nightgown.)
MM wore Ferragamos, although if she were here today, she would no doubt be wearing Manolo, Louboutin or Jimmy Choo. Jackie wore Blahniks when they were very much the insider’s shoe-you could only get them at one shop off King’s Road in London and then in one tiny shop in NYC.
IF JACKIE AND MARILYN WENT SHOPPING TODAY
JKO:
Michael Kors
Lisa Perry (post-1967)
The Town Shop or Le Petite Coquette for lingerie
J.Crew
Bergdorf Goodman
Lanvin
Charvet, Paris (for the lucky man in her life)
Roger Vivier (NYC outpost on Madison only)
JKO would stop by Red Mango for dessert while shopping
Tory Burch
D. Porthault
Jason Wu
Petit Bateau
Van Cleef & Arpels
MIHO flowers (under the premise: It is better to receive, than to give.)
MM:
Juel Park Lingerie (Los Angeles-MM had lingerie made there, still in business)
MM would completely, completely, rock out the DVF wrap dress
MM would wear a Paris Review T-shirt and drive all the lit boys mad. (Available only online. They run very small, so order accordingly.)
La Petite Coquette
J. Mendel, Paris
Barneys New York
Oscar de la Renta for big events
Harry Winston
Camel hair coat from Brooks Brothers
They would both nab shirts/cashmere/blazers from their husband’s/boyfriend’s closet
3 - Cultivating Beauty
WHAT YOU CAN TELL FROM A WOMAN’S HANDS
Both the Marilyn and the Jackie Gals of today have beautiful hands that they emphasize by taking care of them, since they know that (even unconsciously) people notice your hands. As first lady, Jackie claimed to use Johnson’s Baby Lotion as a moisturizer and later, One & All Hand Cream.
The Jackie wears clear nail polish or a sheer pink color. Since she uses her hands a lot, she keeps them to a manageable length-no Barbra Streisand talons for her!
The Marilyn will often get away with colored nails-opaque pink to match her evening dress or even red.
SIGNATURE SCENTS
Marilyn Monroe-Chanel No. 5, Fracas, Joy
Jackie-Jicky by Guerlain (also worn by her future daughter-in-law, Carolyn Bessette), Joy, Fleurissimo, Jean Patou 1000
J+M: GETTING THE LOOK
We asked our favorite makeup guru, Darac, to give us some tips for getting the Jackie or Marilyn Look. Both women loved experimenting with makeup, so we say, “Go for it!”
JACKIE
According to Darac, the Jackie look is Classic Elegance-softly sculptured, approachable beauty and satin skin.
Brow
The brow should have a natural look with rounded arches; nothing in nature has a 45-degree angle. The brown should have a soft start, and then it should curve and end at the corner of the eye.
Eyes
Create soft and smoky eyes using neutral beige, taupe and dark brown eye shadow, soft pencil liner and thickening mascara.
Cheeks
Focus on the apples of the cheeks, and blend in cheek color with the rest of the face. Use tapped-on and blended cream color.
Face
Dust the entire face with a soft veil of pink/peachy powder.
Lips
Apply lipstick or lip gloss first, then softly use liner to strengthen but not define the lip line.
MARILYN
Here, we are going for the Femme Fatale, definitely provocative! Aim for a more finished look and structured application, with eggshell skin.
Brow
Go for a severe arch that is full and defined. Definition is everything!
Eyes
Shadow should match skin tone to intensify the impact of the lash line.
Use lengthening mascara for intense lashes, with false lashes on the outer ends and liquid liner that curves up and away at the ends to match lashes.
Cheeks
Use very little color on the apples of the cheeks. Focus on defining the cheekbones.
Face
Porcelain-like; clean and even all over.
Lips
First line the lips, defining the top lip in a bow shape. Then apply lipstick, blot with tissue, apply powder over a tissue, and then reapply lipstick.
4 - That Certain Something: Sex Appeal
The Jackie MO in dealing with men is this: Accept the premise that a relationship is almost like a poker match (at least in its early stages). You have to be able to walk away, leaving your cards on the table at any time.
Another JKO corollary is that men get bored pretty easily, so you have to mix it up. For example:
1. Don’t throw yourself at him.
2. Be very, very present.
3. Disappear for a while.
4. Oh, okay-throw yourself at him.
Pretend you’re a major-league pitcher-mix up your game a bit. Call him first thing in the morning just to say hello, then accept a lot of dinner invites from other friends and ignore him for a week or so. Whatever you do, don’t be an open book.
6 - Marriage
By the time she hit her sixties, she had been through so much trauma and heartbreak that she became very zen about her experiences.
Jackie was more apt to laugh at people’s foibles or the sense that one “should” do something, which made her clash with her mother, Janet Auchincloss (who felt very strongly about what “should” be done and made sure Jackie knew it) and mother-in-law, Rose Kennedy. In one famous instance, Rose told Jackie that they were expecting important guests for lunch and to make sure that she was at the table on time. Jackie did not come downstairs at all. Instead, she remained in bed and, in fact, had a maid bring her lunch up on a tray.
In spite of her regal public demeanor she was, inside, a free spirit-much like her father, “Black Jack” Bouvier, or her nutty aunt and cousin “Big Edie” and “Little Edie” Beale. John H. Davis, a cousin who wrote The Bouviers in 1993, described her as a young woman who outwardly seemed to conform to social norms. But he wrote that she possessed a “fiercely independent inner life which she shared with few people and would one day be partly responsible for her enormous success.”
What we’re saying is this: Pick your battles.
7 - The Life of the Mind
“I believe that everything happens for a reason. People change so that you can learn to let go, things go wrong so that you appreciate them when they’re right, you believe lies so you eventually learn to trust no one but yourself, and sometimes good things fall apart so better things can fall together.” -MM
8 - Jackie and Marilyn at Work: Professional Demeanor and Achievements
Jackie was a natural editor. Intellectually curious, widely read and with an impeccable eye for what worked on the printed page, she had always loved books and authors. According to a friend, JKO had “an unrelenting desire to observe new things.” Now she was paid to share her interests with others.
“What I like about being an editor,” she admitted, “is that it expands your knowledge and heightens your discrimination. Each book takes you down another path.”
For her writers, Jackie was a dream editor. She photocopied pages of research, tracked down hard-to-find books and delivered them to her authors to help with the manuscript. She called John Loring, a friend and design director at Tiffany, late at night to see how he was holding up, knowing he was on deadline. She did meticulous line edits, knowing that the copy editors would catch any glaring mistakes, but she wanted the manuscript to be perfect. If possible, she cared about her authors’ books as much as they did, and maybe more.
Ultimately, Jackie seems to have gotten as much out of working as her writers, coworkers and Doubleday got out of her. If anything, she almost seemed grateful to have been given the opportunity to use her mind and expand her horizons even further. “This is the definition of happiness,” she said of being an editor, “‘complete use of one’s facilities along the lines leading to excellence in a life affording them scope.’ . . . We can’t all reach it, but we can try to reach it to some degree.”
9 - Jackie and Marilyn at Home
Both of these drinks are courtesy of our favorite bartender (and when we say bartender, we mean that he is a real, old-style mixologist) Dale DeGroff, James Beard winner and author of The Craft of the Cocktail and The Essential Cocktail. Jackie or Marilyn would have loved having this guy over for a party.
THE MARILYN CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL
Ingredients
1 ounce of your favorite añejo tequila
1 ounce Clément Liqueur Créole or Orange curaçao
1½ ounces blood orange juice
Rosé champagne
Preparation
Assemble the first three ingredients in a bar glass with ice, and stir to chill. Strain into a chilled champagne flute, add champagne, and garnish with spiral of orange peel and a flamed orange zest.
THE JACKIE DAIQUIRI
Ingredients
1½ ounces light rum
¾ ounce simple syrup
¾ ounce fresh lime juice
Thin lime wheel garnish
Preparation
Shake all ingredients with ice, and strain into a small cocktail glass. Float a thin wheel of fresh lime on top of the drink for garnish.
2 - Emulating Jackie Style and Marilyn Style
RX-THE JACKIE LOOK
When going for the Jackie, think East Coast sophistication with a soupçon of Paris style and a dash of the tomboy (okay, okay, we’ll stop with the Julia Child metaphors). The look is clean, classic, somewhat spare without being minimal or overly Comme des Garçons. Very American.
That said, there are a few rules in acquiring Jackie Style.
You wear your clothing; your clothing never wears you.
This is a hard thing to teach, but it has to do with being comfortable in your own skin. This is why JKO (or someone like Audrey Hepburn or even Elvis Presley) never used or needed a stylist. Through trial and (very little) error, she knew what worked for her.
You know when you see an actress or singer on the red carpet and she looks really uncomfortable, like she’s playing dress-up or wearing a costume? Well, that’s not what you want. Ideally, as a Jackie, your style will be a reflection of your life, your experiences, your (dare we say) background. It’s also why you want to nab well-made pieces from your mom, dad, grandfather, one of your brothers, your current boyfriend. Not only is the older stuff generally better made, but it’s your history-wear it!
Make sure your clothing fits you.
We cannot stress this enough. If you do nothing else, make sure your damn clothing fits! (Please, no trousers puddling on the floor or jacket cuffs that are too long.) It takes minutes to go to a tailor and have everything fitted at the waist, the hemline, the cuff.
Get the best stuff you can afford.
To be honest, we’re not wild about buying tons and tons of cheap clothing. Well, maybe a piece or two every few years from H&M, but even then, it’s sort of a goof, right? As a Jackie, you are going to shop more like the French or a Vogue editor-know what you want, buy the best stuff you can afford, take care of it, wear the heck out of it, and at the end of your life, either leave it to the Costume Institute (á la couture goddess Nan Kempner) or your fortunate nieces.
Besides, here’s something we learned from the men in our lives who have their suits “built” (as they say) on Savile Row-we know of no other incentive to keep your waistline in shape than buying good clothing. As an added benefit, you will also hang it up properly and not drop it on the floor.
Keep it loose.
This is a hard thing to impart, but once you have decent clothing, wear it lightly. Don’t wear a single designer all at once. Don’t wear anything that screams label label label. Mix the high and the low-jeans and a pair of Vivier shoes. The main thing is this: You don’t want to seem as if you are trying too hard. Wear Schlumberger on the subway (the chances of anyone knowing what it is are pretty much nil, and besides, it’s insured). You know you are in the Jackie Zone when you can wear a ball gown or a bathing suit as effortlessly as jeans and a T-shirt (or vice versa).
JACKIE’S STYLE FAVORITES
Jackie’s style favorites were a compendium of high-end European designers mixed in with some classic American sportswear. First, the big boys (or girls): Chanel, Valentino, Givenchy, YSL, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Carolina Herrera, Hermès handbags. Then, moving on to her more casual, everyday favorites: Lacoste, Lily Pulitzer, Zoran, Roger Vivier buckled flats, Jack Rogers sandals, Manolo Blahnik, Ferragamo, Creed Fleurissimo perfume, Tretorn sneakers, Dunhill cigarette lighter, cotton T-shirts from the Gap, Schlumberger enameled bracelets (pricey!), the occasional jodhpurs worn indoors. And as far as riding in style, she gave a Jaguar as a gift to JFK when he was a senator (and it had to be exchanged for an American car), and in later years she drove a BMW.
And where did Jackie like to shop? Um, anywhere on earth? In New York City, her number-one primo spot was probably Bergdorf Goodman, but she also favored the exclusive emporiums on Madison Avenue-Armani, David Webb, Porthault for linen. In Paris, there were the usual suspects-Hermès, Givenchy and Fogal, where she got her stockings.
RX-THE MARILYN LOOK
When you’re channeling Marilyn, you’re asking for the ultimate va va voom and then some. But remember, part of the reason we are still drawn to MM is her combination of sexual knowingness and innocence- and that particular alchemy is important. When making wardrobe choices, the right decision can mean the difference between being in the Marilyn Zone and looking like Pamela Anderson or Anna Nicole Smith.
It’s all about the waist.
The basic premise of Marilyn Style is this: No matter your dress size (which, if you know what you are doing in terms of fashion, does not really matter that much), if you have a waist, we want to see it. And that means one thing: Cinch it.
If you are less than thrilled with your figure, take a tip from the ladies of Mad Men and utilize some undergarments that can give you the figure you want.
Show some skin!
Listen-you’re gorgeous, you’re fabulous in the sack, you love champagne, everyone in the world wants to go out with you-what the heck-own it! If you have legs, we want to see them. If you have gorgeous arms, a beautiful neck, perfect hands . . . you get the idea. The Marilyn is never afraid to show some skin. What she doesn’t want to do is show too much of it-no belly button (unless she is-lucky world-wearing a bikini). No tramp stamp.
Have a sense of humor.
And again, as we said with Jackie, the best thing about Marilyn Style is that you don’t have to take it (or yourself) too seriously. As a Marilyn Gal, you won’t-this is part of your appeal, after all. Men (and many women and children and dogs) especially hate it when it seems as if someone is trying too hard. So you can be on a first date. You can be walking the red carpet or dripping in diamonds (borrowed from Winston, natch), but it’s always good to take yourself lightly.
MARILYN’S STYLE FAVORITES
Marilyn’s style was more eclectic than Jackie’s. Rather than automatically falling into the classic column, she was a Hollywood starlet who reveled in being photographed. Hence, she took more risks with skintight satin, bright colors, strategically placed bows and polka dots, plunging halter dresses, dangling rhinestone earrings, white fur wraps, peep-toe shoes and some serious (god-given) décolletage.
Like most modern American women, Marilyn mixed casual sportswear with some pricey, one-of-a-kind showstoppers. Although she did not have a ton of clothing for a celebrity of her stature (especially compared to the übershopper Jackie), she took her pieces and, by the very fact that she was wearing them, made them her own. She tended to wear her clothing a good deal and then duck into the wardrobe room at Fox if she needed to borrow something for an awards show or a night out at Romanoff’s.
When she was not in costume on a movie set, Marilyn wore a lot of pure American sportswear-JAX (also favored by Audrey Hepburn and Patricia Kennedy Lawford), Madcap, Geistex, John Moore and Levi’s, Lee or J.C. Penney denim. In terms of designers we might know today, Emilio Pucci was her absolute favorite, as well as Billy Travilla, who designed her iconic white cocktail dress from Seven Year Itch, as well as the hot pink gown she wore while singing “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Marilyn favored Ferragamo heels (in case you were wondering, those were Ferragamo white slingbacks worn while cavorting over the subway grate in The Seven Year Itch). In addition to wearing off-the-rack cocktail dresses, she also had some pricey couture-Norman Norell, Ceil Chapman, Galanos.
When she was in Manhattan, she favored a camel hair coat or a Blackglama mink that was a gift from Joe DiMaggio.
Marilyn did not have much real jewelry-she owned a 16-inch strand of Mikimoto pearls given to her on their honeymoon in Japan (she gave it to the teenaged Susan Strasberg and Strasberg later returned it to Mikimoto in 1998). She had her platinum and diamond eternity wedding band from Joe DiMaggio. (The ring with thirty-five baguette-cut diamonds-one was missing-was later sold at auction for $772,500.)
J+M FIELD NOTES-THE FIVE ESSENTIALS
JACKIE’S FIVE STYLE ESSENTIALS
Sheath dress-Although she didn’t wear them much past 1972, the sleeveless sheath dress still worked when Jackie was having a Camelot redux moment, and the sheath still works today. Some advice? Your arms have to be in very good shape to pull off this look, so don’t neglect those push-ups.
White jeans, or navy blue-JKO was one of those lucky women who looked great in boyishly trim jeans (see also Audrey Hepburn, Kate Moss and Amanda Burden) well into her sixties. Must have been all the speed walking she did around the island of Manhattan, trying to escape the long lens of paparazzo Ron Galella. Although she wore blue jeans in her twenties, nothing says upper class like the white jeans she wore later in sunny Greece or Martha’s Vineyard.
T-shirt-JKO (like her future daughter-in-law Carolyn Bessette) favored Petit Bateau in white, navy blue or striped. Although you can now pick them up stateside, she got hers by the dozen in Paris.
Killer jewelry-And when we say killer, we mean some killer, crazy jewelry-like the gold and ruby ear clips that Jackie’s second husband, Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, got her in 1969 to commemorate man’s landing on the moon. They were a literal representation of the lunar landing, complete with gold spaceships and ruby craters. Made especially for Ari by his jeweler in Greece, of course. But beyond the nutty bibelots, he also got her some extremely serious diamonds from Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Hermès scarf-Tie it under your chin, then put your oversized sunglasses on. Everyone will know it is you, but you can still pretend you are going incognito. Also useful after getting your hair done at Kenneth Salon or Thomas Morrissey’s.
MARILYN’S FIVE STYLE ESSENTIALS
Since Marilyn was so physically compelling, she could wear pretty much anything and look amazing. Hence, the basic Marilyn style MO is: “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.”
Devastating evening dress-Billy Travilla (known simply as Travilla) created some of MM’s most iconographic evening dresses. They first met in 1950, when she asked if she could borrow his fitting room to try on a costume.
They worked together on eight movies-and what movies they were: Monkey Business (1952), Don’t Bother to Knock (1952), Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953), How to Marry a Millionaire (1953), There’s No Business Like Show Business (1954), River of No Return (1954), The Seven Year Itch (1955) and Bus Stop (1956). He was nominated for an Oscar for his work on two Marilyn movies, There’s No Business Like Show Business and Bus Stop.
Travilla designed most of Marilyn’s most memorable costumes and helped to sew her into the sheer gold lamé dress she wore (briefly-it was deemed too revealing to pass the censors) in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
Not surprisingly, MM recognized his talent, too. Lifelong friends, she autographed a nude calendar for him with the words “Billy Dear, please dress me forever. I love you, Marilyn.”
Daytime/cocktail dress-Marilyn had such a great figure that she could rock a white halter dress and look amazing. For daytime, she liked color in casual West Coast styles-Pucci or a lime green dress in a soft silhouette. For night, her preferred color was (no surprise) black in either drapey wool or velvet.
Bikini (oh, what the heck)-The string bikini was not in evidence in Marilyn’s day, so hers tended to be fairly high waisted and somewhat prim by today’s standards, although they did reveal her belly button. We have never seen a bathing-suit shot of MM where she was not smiling and looking very happy. So the moral is this: If you are going to wear a bikini, make sure you have gotten a pedicure and own it.
White terry cloth bathrobe (nude underneath)-For relaxing at home or on set between takes while having your hair/makeup done. It has to be thick white terry cloth, tied closure in front. You can be like a real star and nab yours from the Chateau Marmont or the Beverly Hills Hotel.
Beautiful silk slip with lace inserts-This can also double as negligee. (We know that the Marilyn doesn’t actually wear a nightgown.)
MM wore Ferragamos, although if she were here today, she would no doubt be wearing Manolo, Louboutin or Jimmy Choo. Jackie wore Blahniks when they were very much the insider’s shoe-you could only get them at one shop off King’s Road in London and then in one tiny shop in NYC.
IF JACKIE AND MARILYN WENT SHOPPING TODAY
JKO:
Michael Kors
Lisa Perry (post-1967)
The Town Shop or Le Petite Coquette for lingerie
J.Crew
Bergdorf Goodman
Lanvin
Charvet, Paris (for the lucky man in her life)
Roger Vivier (NYC outpost on Madison only)
JKO would stop by Red Mango for dessert while shopping
Tory Burch
D. Porthault
Jason Wu
Petit Bateau
Van Cleef & Arpels
MIHO flowers (under the premise: It is better to receive, than to give.)
MM:
Juel Park Lingerie (Los Angeles-MM had lingerie made there, still in business)
MM would completely, completely, rock out the DVF wrap dress
MM would wear a Paris Review T-shirt and drive all the lit boys mad. (Available only online. They run very small, so order accordingly.)
La Petite Coquette
J. Mendel, Paris
Barneys New York
Oscar de la Renta for big events
Harry Winston
Camel hair coat from Brooks Brothers
They would both nab shirts/cashmere/blazers from their husband’s/boyfriend’s closet
3 - Cultivating Beauty
WHAT YOU CAN TELL FROM A WOMAN’S HANDS
Both the Marilyn and the Jackie Gals of today have beautiful hands that they emphasize by taking care of them, since they know that (even unconsciously) people notice your hands. As first lady, Jackie claimed to use Johnson’s Baby Lotion as a moisturizer and later, One & All Hand Cream.
The Jackie wears clear nail polish or a sheer pink color. Since she uses her hands a lot, she keeps them to a manageable length-no Barbra Streisand talons for her!
The Marilyn will often get away with colored nails-opaque pink to match her evening dress or even red.
SIGNATURE SCENTS
Marilyn Monroe-Chanel No. 5, Fracas, Joy
Jackie-Jicky by Guerlain (also worn by her future daughter-in-law, Carolyn Bessette), Joy, Fleurissimo, Jean Patou 1000
J+M: GETTING THE LOOK
We asked our favorite makeup guru, Darac, to give us some tips for getting the Jackie or Marilyn Look. Both women loved experimenting with makeup, so we say, “Go for it!”
JACKIE
According to Darac, the Jackie look is Classic Elegance-softly sculptured, approachable beauty and satin skin.
Brow
The brow should have a natural look with rounded arches; nothing in nature has a 45-degree angle. The brown should have a soft start, and then it should curve and end at the corner of the eye.
Eyes
Create soft and smoky eyes using neutral beige, taupe and dark brown eye shadow, soft pencil liner and thickening mascara.
Cheeks
Focus on the apples of the cheeks, and blend in cheek color with the rest of the face. Use tapped-on and blended cream color.
Face
Dust the entire face with a soft veil of pink/peachy powder.
Lips
Apply lipstick or lip gloss first, then softly use liner to strengthen but not define the lip line.
MARILYN
Here, we are going for the Femme Fatale, definitely provocative! Aim for a more finished look and structured application, with eggshell skin.
Brow
Go for a severe arch that is full and defined. Definition is everything!
Eyes
Shadow should match skin tone to intensify the impact of the lash line.
Use lengthening mascara for intense lashes, with false lashes on the outer ends and liquid liner that curves up and away at the ends to match lashes.
Cheeks
Use very little color on the apples of the cheeks. Focus on defining the cheekbones.
Face
Porcelain-like; clean and even all over.
Lips
First line the lips, defining the top lip in a bow shape. Then apply lipstick, blot with tissue, apply powder over a tissue, and then reapply lipstick.
4 - That Certain Something: Sex Appeal
The Jackie MO in dealing with men is this: Accept the premise that a relationship is almost like a poker match (at least in its early stages). You have to be able to walk away, leaving your cards on the table at any time.
Another JKO corollary is that men get bored pretty easily, so you have to mix it up. For example:
1. Don’t throw yourself at him.
2. Be very, very present.
3. Disappear for a while.
4. Oh, okay-throw yourself at him.
Pretend you’re a major-league pitcher-mix up your game a bit. Call him first thing in the morning just to say hello, then accept a lot of dinner invites from other friends and ignore him for a week or so. Whatever you do, don’t be an open book.
6 - Marriage
By the time she hit her sixties, she had been through so much trauma and heartbreak that she became very zen about her experiences.
Jackie was more apt to laugh at people’s foibles or the sense that one “should” do something, which made her clash with her mother, Janet Auchincloss (who felt very strongly about what “should” be done and made sure Jackie knew it) and mother-in-law, Rose Kennedy. In one famous instance, Rose told Jackie that they were expecting important guests for lunch and to make sure that she was at the table on time. Jackie did not come downstairs at all. Instead, she remained in bed and, in fact, had a maid bring her lunch up on a tray.
In spite of her regal public demeanor she was, inside, a free spirit-much like her father, “Black Jack” Bouvier, or her nutty aunt and cousin “Big Edie” and “Little Edie” Beale. John H. Davis, a cousin who wrote The Bouviers in 1993, described her as a young woman who outwardly seemed to conform to social norms. But he wrote that she possessed a “fiercely independent inner life which she shared with few people and would one day be partly responsible for her enormous success.”
What we’re saying is this: Pick your battles.
7 - The Life of the Mind
“I believe that everything happens for a reason. People change so that you can learn to let go, things go wrong so that you appreciate them when they’re right, you believe lies so you eventually learn to trust no one but yourself, and sometimes good things fall apart so better things can fall together.” -MM
8 - Jackie and Marilyn at Work: Professional Demeanor and Achievements
Jackie was a natural editor. Intellectually curious, widely read and with an impeccable eye for what worked on the printed page, she had always loved books and authors. According to a friend, JKO had “an unrelenting desire to observe new things.” Now she was paid to share her interests with others.
“What I like about being an editor,” she admitted, “is that it expands your knowledge and heightens your discrimination. Each book takes you down another path.”
For her writers, Jackie was a dream editor. She photocopied pages of research, tracked down hard-to-find books and delivered them to her authors to help with the manuscript. She called John Loring, a friend and design director at Tiffany, late at night to see how he was holding up, knowing he was on deadline. She did meticulous line edits, knowing that the copy editors would catch any glaring mistakes, but she wanted the manuscript to be perfect. If possible, she cared about her authors’ books as much as they did, and maybe more.
Ultimately, Jackie seems to have gotten as much out of working as her writers, coworkers and Doubleday got out of her. If anything, she almost seemed grateful to have been given the opportunity to use her mind and expand her horizons even further. “This is the definition of happiness,” she said of being an editor, “‘complete use of one’s facilities along the lines leading to excellence in a life affording them scope.’ . . . We can’t all reach it, but we can try to reach it to some degree.”
9 - Jackie and Marilyn at Home
Both of these drinks are courtesy of our favorite bartender (and when we say bartender, we mean that he is a real, old-style mixologist) Dale DeGroff, James Beard winner and author of The Craft of the Cocktail and The Essential Cocktail. Jackie or Marilyn would have loved having this guy over for a party.
THE MARILYN CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL
Ingredients
1 ounce of your favorite añejo tequila
1 ounce Clément Liqueur Créole or Orange curaçao
1½ ounces blood orange juice
Rosé champagne
Preparation
Assemble the first three ingredients in a bar glass with ice, and stir to chill. Strain into a chilled champagne flute, add champagne, and garnish with spiral of orange peel and a flamed orange zest.
THE JACKIE DAIQUIRI
Ingredients
1½ ounces light rum
¾ ounce simple syrup
¾ ounce fresh lime juice
Thin lime wheel garnish
Preparation
Shake all ingredients with ice, and strain into a small cocktail glass. Float a thin wheel of fresh lime on top of the drink for garnish.