Silly me planning to take a bus from Jerusalem to Eliat (on the Red Sea) on the first day of passover. That was on my self-made itinerary and I have been following it exactly until now. As it turns out, buses are shut down on the first day of the important Jewish holiday as is almost everything else in the State of Israel. Upon taking the cab to Jerusalem's Central Bus Station, it became clear... I would either have to stay in Jerusalem an extra night or try to get to Aqaba or anywhere in Jordan another way then by way of the Southern Border Crossing at Eliat. So,... my cabbie, who looked like the Palestinian version of George Clooney, convinced me that the best way to get to Jordan was through the Sheikh Hussein Bridge... which was going to cost me a hell of a lot more money than the original public bus to the Red Sea. I figured if I can just get into Jordan and to the capital of Amman, I can easliy take a cheap public bus to Aqaba, where i had reservations.
After passing the Dead Sea and being dropped off at the Israeli-Jordanian Border, I paid the Israeli exit taxes, the Jordanian visa fee, had to go through about 40 minutes of waiting and questioning from Jordanian officials. I don't know exactly what was so interesting about me that it took me so long to be inspected while others took a few minutes. I guess maybe it the fact that I was traveling alone, not dressed like the average "back-packer", and had a myriad of visas and stamps in my passport which made me interesting to them. I realy don't know why, but they made me sit for longer than anybody else and had to take my passport down the hall to their offices for additional inspection. Finally, they let me through after asking me maybe 5 separate times what my name was and where I worked.
At the border, I wanted a cheap way to get to Amman, so I scoped out some potential candidates to share a cab ride with. I ended up asking a group of young, Israeli Hippies if they wanted to cab-share. They were going to the Amman airport for a flight to Dehli, India, which was cheaper to them than flying out of Israel. They were cool, free-spirited and we made a conversation as the cabbie, who spoke no English whisked us out of the Jordan Valley and towards Amman as his tape-player guided us along with a twirling and clattering mix of Arab music...passing hundreds of pictures on the streets of Jordan's beloved King Abdullah. He is almost on every storefront and street corner in the country....
After being dropped off at Amman Airport, I took a separate cab to the bus station. This time the cabbie spoke English and he explained how welcome I was in Jordan and how much he loved Americans. I have noticed how many Jordanians really make you feel welcome here... they are happy to see foreigners and very helpful and kind. As far as Arab countries go, Jordan is arguably the America's best friend. What else should you expect from a kingdom whose king made a guest appearance on "Star Trek"? Anyway,.. he dropped me off in front of a nondescript bus at an open air station. The driver assured me that this was leaving for Aqaba and I was the last to board the bus, which was dark, dirty and full of smoking men and a few women sitting in front wearing hijab. I was the only Westerner on the bus, I noticed immediately, but I got nothing more than curious looks as I found a row to myself in the middle.
During the 4-hour journey south, the bus stopped at a resting spot just as we hit the desert and everybody got out to use the restroom and buy snacks. As I walked in, the shopkeepers shouted prices and deals in Arabic. I looked around and noticed again that I was the only Westerner there, but despite getting curious stares from people around me, I felt safe. I bought some packaged pastries and some juice and I apparently paid for all of it with 20 Dinars. The shopkeeper looked at me strange and I caused him a little bit of an inconvenience by such a large bill. I imagine it was like paying for a newspaper with a 50 dollar bill in the states...
As the smoke-filled bus made it's way south through the desert during the night, I peered out the window and was mesmerized by the big, orange full moon resting just above the high mountains to the East. This inspired me to listen to the Moody Blues on my ipod..... Just outside of Aqaba, we stopped at a military checkpoint and a few soldiers told everyone to get off and have their bags inspected after having our ID's looked at. I didn't really know what was going on, but I just followed the lead of everyone else. As I waited in line with my bags watching a tough-looking Jordanian Soldier go through the contents of peoples bags by hand (no x-ray machine), I expect no less. When it was my turn, I threw my bag on the metal table and begin to open it when he stopped me and asked, "Where from?".... I said, "The United States..... America"..... he paused for a moment and then motioned me away and said, "OK,.. thank you". I was the only one whose bag wasn't hand-inspected. I guess they really do like Amerians here.... and it made up for the earlier border hassle.
As we approached town, I woman in the front started yelling frantically in Arabic. I had no idea what the fuss was about, but a handful of men in the back were speaking up and offering their loud opinions on the matter. I was confused, but entertained. At the final stop, she got out and let her voice raised her voice again to a handful of men and even a few nearby shopkeepers tried to diffuse things and calm the matter. People seemed to have a lot of respect for what she was saying and I guess she had a valid point of view on something. To me, it was interesting to see how this culture solves problems and acts socially.... and here, as in most of the world, when a woman yells, men tend to shut-up and listen.
I have finally arrived in the Red Sea town of Aqaba (remember the Disney movie "Aladdin?). I am staying in small area of hostels across the highway from an aqua blue sea admist a desert landscape. The hostels here are underdeveloped and laid-back, but charming. I was was glad to have made it after a long, adventurous day in which I spent way too much money. Because of this, I have to scrap my plans to go to the ruins of Petra... it's just too much money at this point. I will be heading towards Cairo, Egypt tomorrow five days earlier than originally planned and may be back in the states earlier than planned either, but I am not at all disappointed. In this part of the world, they say, "Inchallah", means "If god wills it" or "god-willing". I guess it was not "willed" for me to go to Petra this time around, but I am looking forward to seeing Cairo and the Pyramids. I also don't mind making up my itinerary as I go along.... not strictly following a schedule because it is liberating and the adventure, challenge, and mystery of what lies ahead is always exciting. To Cairo, Egypt.... Inchallah!
![](http://i40.tinypic.com/291dhys.jpg)
In Aqaba, Jordan, a man pears out towards a yacht and the Egyptian Sinai Peninsula just being the Red Sea, which isn't red at all, but rather a beautiful shade of Aqua...
![](http://i43.tinypic.com/ek2fkx.jpg)
The last picture I took before leaving Jerusalem.... two cats making love on the hostel rooftop...
![](http://i41.tinypic.com/qn2u1c.jpg)
Me and the Palestinian George Clooney on our way to the Jordanian border...
![](http://i43.tinypic.com/t85hdf.jpg)
Through Amman....
![](http://i42.tinypic.com/1zx8ga1.jpg)
kite-runners....
![](http://i41.tinypic.com/34ru6vq.jpg)
Aqaba's small beach with coral reef's offshore was full of middle-school age girls on a field trip or something.... some playing a bongo drum and chanting Arabic songs.... A few of them shouted, "Hello....What's your name?.... Bye" as I walked by apparently trying to practiced their English..... it was cute... (In the backround is Eliat, Israel.... just over the border).
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/20pd4z6.jpg)
Aqaba's beach doesn't seem like it's really been discovered by the outside world even though there was a few European tourists here and there.... it was a bit underdeveloped, but charming.... and beautifully exotic...
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/2d7zin5.jpg)
Hijab on the beach....
![](http://i43.tinypic.com/idbyc7.jpg)
Not usually what you think of when you think "beach gear".
![](http://i42.tinypic.com/156b8gn.jpg)
A couple of young Jordanian guys came to sit next to me and talk to me for awhile.... their English wasn't that great, but it was nice to talk for awhile....
![](http://i44.tinypic.com/2nbx2k1.jpg)
The future of Jordan....
![](http://i39.tinypic.com/33nhxld.jpg)
I love you, Jordan!
![](http://i41.tinypic.com/2pzacrd.jpg)
American and Jordanian ties are strong!
![](http://i40.tinypic.com/34s14c8.jpg)
Sun sets over Egypt,...... the last place on my journey...