Ah, pattern progress
I really should do this dress diary up proper. So, here we are from the beginning, sorta.
I am making up this pattern, Margo Anderson's Elizabethan Comfort Pattern. While I made my own gown already (long ago), based on the same Arnold info (actually mine was a blend of two surcoats), I figured I would give this pattern a try, as I liked the sleeve of the gown (Norris called them mahoitered, iirc), which I just could not get right and gave up on when I made my own pattern. I will be making up the straight front version of the gown. The kirtle is the same for both views.
The kirtle is relatively simple in three body pieces, and has the two-piece sleeves which was simple to shorten for my shorter arms. Sleeve patterns and I don't deal well together, as I tend to make them harder than I am sure they really are. I even almost made them too short, until I remembered to measure twice before committing to them, and undid the extra shortening.
I've got the pattern redrafted to my measurements, sans a hem, since I plan on binding the bottom, so I don't need the extra there. That took a little adjusting, to make it fit my length proper, which is a bit longer in the back than in the front, yet not making it look wrong in the side. I am almost tempted to make a mockup to double check the length, but since it is a length issue, I can adjust a little later so long as I am close, which my husband said I was long enough when he helped me with the paper pattern length, which never flows like fabric, even that gridded "fabric" stuff.
I also had to remake the interlining pieces for the shorter length, since I made a few adjustments here and there to tweak things to fit me.
I am now stalling for time... After I cut up the pattern and get it on the fabrics, it will mean stitching together the various linen pieces, and that just doesn't appeal to me. I think I will cut the linen/cotton lining pieces first, which will help me to check for length, and then sew, cut and piece the linens.
I know already that the main front panel brocade will be a bear to deal with, as the threads of gold (polyester) which snag on every little thing wil have to be handled carefully. I will be making a full lining, not flatlining, so once the garment is done, that back will be completely hidden. But I may have to overcast the edges anyways just to make sure it doesn't get pulled out later.
I am making up this pattern, Margo Anderson's Elizabethan Comfort Pattern. While I made my own gown already (long ago), based on the same Arnold info (actually mine was a blend of two surcoats), I figured I would give this pattern a try, as I liked the sleeve of the gown (Norris called them mahoitered, iirc), which I just could not get right and gave up on when I made my own pattern. I will be making up the straight front version of the gown. The kirtle is the same for both views.
The kirtle is relatively simple in three body pieces, and has the two-piece sleeves which was simple to shorten for my shorter arms. Sleeve patterns and I don't deal well together, as I tend to make them harder than I am sure they really are. I even almost made them too short, until I remembered to measure twice before committing to them, and undid the extra shortening.
I've got the pattern redrafted to my measurements, sans a hem, since I plan on binding the bottom, so I don't need the extra there. That took a little adjusting, to make it fit my length proper, which is a bit longer in the back than in the front, yet not making it look wrong in the side. I am almost tempted to make a mockup to double check the length, but since it is a length issue, I can adjust a little later so long as I am close, which my husband said I was long enough when he helped me with the paper pattern length, which never flows like fabric, even that gridded "fabric" stuff.
I also had to remake the interlining pieces for the shorter length, since I made a few adjustments here and there to tweak things to fit me.
I am now stalling for time... After I cut up the pattern and get it on the fabrics, it will mean stitching together the various linen pieces, and that just doesn't appeal to me. I think I will cut the linen/cotton lining pieces first, which will help me to check for length, and then sew, cut and piece the linens.
I know already that the main front panel brocade will be a bear to deal with, as the threads of gold (polyester) which snag on every little thing wil have to be handled carefully. I will be making a full lining, not flatlining, so once the garment is done, that back will be completely hidden. But I may have to overcast the edges anyways just to make sure it doesn't get pulled out later.