More Tudor sewing notes
Slowly working on things today. Been kinda out of it, so nothing really concentrated. I've made the silk sash, but need to add the cross at the bottom of it. I have finished the kirtle straps, and just fitted the gown straps as well, but need to finish sewing it tonight before heading to bed. I kept popping the strap pins as I adjusted, which annoyed my husband to no end I am sure.
Wanted to make some notes here as the final fitting was done.
The back of the kirtle bodice is still too long, even tho I shortened it at least 1.5". I think the front is pushing up which is forcing the back down further than it should be, but I don't know how to fix that. My husband says my posture changed a lot, with me tilting back more than usual, which may be contributing to the problem. Mind you, I draped from my personal tape form, did a muslin where I noticed the long back length, and redrafted the pattern a few times. I must have done something wrong in all that, but not anything I am going to correct anytime soon.
Because of my extra body mass, my kirtle top isn't containing the armpits/breast tissue very well, and even with the lack of boning over the breast area, I am getting a uniboob visual in front. And even taking in the bodice another inch, my breasts still want to slide down into the body. So I will be stuffing a sausage (oh the bad visuals) of fabric in front for the breasts to rest upon as a temp fix. I think a full fix would be to completely redraft the front allowing for more breast room while keeping the stomach area tighter. I swear that the best fitting bodice I ever had was the first one, from Folkwear patterns, the dirndle bodice with the gussets for the breasts. Sadly, such gussets are not period, and I am not sure how to get that flat front Tudor look for my plus sized body. Of course, loosing more weight would help a lot more, even if I have to remake the bodices yet again.
The gown straps are fitting along the kirtle straps beautifully. There is just enough room for the jewels (if I have time) to sit and look pretty on the kirtle. Right now, I am more concerned with getting the whole gown done in time, so jewels will have to wait. But the black piping is rather striking along that edge. I just need to remember to add piping or narrow binding to the front placard.
And I think that's it for notes right now. Back to the hand sewing grind. Tomorrow afternoon will be sleeves and tomorrow night the placement of the skirt on the gown, which will probably overflow into Saturday. Good thing Yule is in the evening. Ah, last minute sewing... gotta hate it.
Wanted to make some notes here as the final fitting was done.
The back of the kirtle bodice is still too long, even tho I shortened it at least 1.5". I think the front is pushing up which is forcing the back down further than it should be, but I don't know how to fix that. My husband says my posture changed a lot, with me tilting back more than usual, which may be contributing to the problem. Mind you, I draped from my personal tape form, did a muslin where I noticed the long back length, and redrafted the pattern a few times. I must have done something wrong in all that, but not anything I am going to correct anytime soon.
Because of my extra body mass, my kirtle top isn't containing the armpits/breast tissue very well, and even with the lack of boning over the breast area, I am getting a uniboob visual in front. And even taking in the bodice another inch, my breasts still want to slide down into the body. So I will be stuffing a sausage (oh the bad visuals) of fabric in front for the breasts to rest upon as a temp fix. I think a full fix would be to completely redraft the front allowing for more breast room while keeping the stomach area tighter. I swear that the best fitting bodice I ever had was the first one, from Folkwear patterns, the dirndle bodice with the gussets for the breasts. Sadly, such gussets are not period, and I am not sure how to get that flat front Tudor look for my plus sized body. Of course, loosing more weight would help a lot more, even if I have to remake the bodices yet again.
The gown straps are fitting along the kirtle straps beautifully. There is just enough room for the jewels (if I have time) to sit and look pretty on the kirtle. Right now, I am more concerned with getting the whole gown done in time, so jewels will have to wait. But the black piping is rather striking along that edge. I just need to remember to add piping or narrow binding to the front placard.
And I think that's it for notes right now. Back to the hand sewing grind. Tomorrow afternoon will be sleeves and tomorrow night the placement of the skirt on the gown, which will probably overflow into Saturday. Good thing Yule is in the evening. Ah, last minute sewing... gotta hate it.