Northern diaries
Day 0
Aug 21st
I sleep most of the day in two coaches from Helsinki.
Arriving to Rovaniemi, I find - a total surprise to myself - another coach connection to Hetta, some town 80 km away from Kautokeino.
It is raining heavily there all evening, and takes me 3+hours to hitchhike out of there - luckily, I wait under a big shelter signed "Tori" (market)
Day 1
19km, Madam Bongos hut
Insane amount of mushrooms, some (already overripe and watery) cloudberries, and lots of lingonberry and blueberry.
First 10km are moderately boggy (less than ankle-deep). Last bog before ascent to Goaskinvarra is deeper.
Madame Bongos main hut is locked, but two unpowered huts around and a "shower block" with washing machine (!!!) and sauna are open.
Lost 2 karabiners and a pole tip during the day
Day 2
43km, north of Rivikoss
Almost no bogs today, but lots (ten ?) of river/creek crossings.
Most of the trail follows ATV tracks.
Some cloudberries.
Strong W winds (maybe 20+ m/sec at the top of some hills), calming down abruptly ~9PM