Weekend Project - bolero
This weekend I decided to relax. My first few days of business have been just as busy as the time spent preparing for them and there is still (always) more to do! So I was reading a book, watching a movie and mulling over some small pieces of fabric I purchased recently (wondering what to do with them, how they would handle and so on), when it suddenly dawned on me that the purple silk dupioni (named "Miami" in the Silk Baron's books) was demanding to be made into a little bolero with standing collar. I have the most fun with projects when I feel as though the materials have suggested their own use, if that makes any sense!
It is, as yet, unfinished. I really wanted to get it completed today but do not have a thread that matches the silk closely enough in order to complete the exterior. So...
You can see here the pins holding bias in place to edge the collar and finish the arms. Originally, I had intended on making a far more organic, soft and large collection of ruffles and rosettes (which came about when draping some silk to get a feel of the volume required in the collar), but half-way through I decided that the silk/organza combination would hold a sharp pleat more naturally than it would flop about. Maybe I'll try a version with cotton batiste for a softer, heavier form. Anyway, the pattern, standard UK 12:
Yes yes, the back shoulder is wrong, but I fixed that later. I've tried to keep this bolero very wide of the bust allowing the collar to compliment the shape there, and I used this seam shaping at back simply because I think it very flattering.
And that wrinkle isn't usually there, it's sitting on the mannequin oddly in this photograph.
As for construction, it goes as follows:
1) silk dupioni in "miami", flatlined to silk organza throughout.
2) silk satin in "pearl" to line.
3) cotton duck padded out with thin cotton flannel to support the upper back and front panels where the collar is attached (this was hand-basted to the silk organza underlining with loose diagonal stitches for flexibility - it took a couple of goes to get this sitting just right without showing through to the outside). This gives the jacket a very pleasing structure even when not on the mannequin.
4) interior seams finished with hand-overcasting.
5) self-made silk bias to finish exterior and duchess satin bias binding to finish the interior. (It pained me to use the duchesse bias, but I only had a small amount of the silk satin as a tester...)
6) Sparklewren logo embroidered in deep crimson :-)
I'm quite pleased with this sample garment, and really love the "miami" and "pearl" combination. I may well order some more (when funds allow) and make up a corseted gown to match. I'm thinking of something with a very straight skirt, smooth hips and straight top edge at the bodice, but based around an internal corset to create the shape. Indeed, the top part would essentially be a corset, but with some draping on top of that. Maybe a wide band of "miami" to edge?