10 Skincare Secrets from Dermatologists
I recently had an appointment with a new dermatologist, and I knew instantly that I was in good hands. She asked what my concerns were, examined my skin and offered clear, knowledgeable recommendations for improvement. By the time I was walking out the door, I felt like I was welcoming a new dawn in my personal skincare.
So what do dermatologists know that we don't (besides years and years of schooling)? Read on for tips on how to think--and treat your skin--like a dermatologist..
Secret 1: Assess and re-assess your skin type regularly.
Like the rest of our bodies, skin changes with age. If you’re in your 30s or 40s, your skin is probably different than it was in your teens or 20s. In general, with age, skin becomes drier as oil production levels decrease. So even if you had super oily skin during your teens and 20s, that doesn’t guarantee an oily complexion now. Plus, skincare products that once worked great on your skin may no longer do the job - in fact, they can actually cause problems, like dryness or irritation, according the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).
If you’ve got combo skin, you may need to use separate skin care on your oily T-zone - like a toner or product with salicylic acid - and drier spots like your cheeks. You’ll probably need to moisturize your cheeks more often, too.
Acne is a common problem that can stick around or come back years after your high school prom, often as a result of hormonal changes and pore-clogging cosmetics.
To find formulas that treat your adult skin (which tends to be drier and more sensitive than teens and young adults), look for gentle, noncomedogenic products with ingredients like sulfur or salicylic acid, recommends the AAD. Still suffering from acne? You might want to ask your dermatologist about prescription treatments, such as antibiotics or oral contraceptives.
Secret 2: Avoid overload.
Oftentimes we’re so eager to minimize wrinkles, lines, age spots and sagging that we slather on as many treatments as possible, combining, mixing and matching. We may glob on greater amounts than necessary, and apply them too often. We think this approach will help speed up skin’s repair process and make it look better faster, but that’s simply not the case.
In fact, product overload can cause irritation, especially when high concentrations are applied to a small localized area.
Take retinoids, for instance. These potent wrinkle- and acne-reducers - which are only available via prescription - are notorious for potential irritation, so you definitely don’t want to overuse these products. For women with irritation-prone skin, it's best to dab a pea-size amount over your entire face, leave it in for 15 minutes, then rinse.
Even having a retinoid on your skin for this short amount of time will give you the same benefits as wearing it all night. Another option - use a retinoid every two or three nights instead of nightly, especially for the first several weeks as your skin gets used to the product.
Secret 3: Your skin is what you eat.
It’s no surprise that for skin to look healthy on the outside, it must also be healthy on the inside. The foods we eat play a major role in how our skin looks and functions, according to experts. Below are expert recommendations on skin-boosting super-foods:
- Fruits and veggies, which are rich in vitamins and antioxidants to repair damage. They also have a high water content to keep our bodies and skin hydrated.
- Healthy fats and omega-3 fatty acids, found in fish, nuts, eggs and olive oil.
- Omega-6 fatty acids, found in sunflower and safflower oil, to stave off dryness and inflammation.
- Green tea, a powerful antioxidant to counteract aging and possibly lower skin cancer risk.
Secret 4: Moisturize - no matter your skin type - and protect against UV damage.
Moisturizer plays an important role in your skincare arsenal by helping skin retain its moisture and look healthier and more supple. Choose a moisturizer designed for your specific skin type. Individuals with acne-prone skin might be surprised to learn that they need moisturizer, too. In fact, many acne treatments can be drying and cause inflammation, so believe it or not you may actually need more moisturizer when you’re battling breakouts.
As a bonus, pick a moisturizer with built-in SPF to eliminate a separate sunscreen for your face. You’ll help defend your skin against UV rays that cause signs of aging and skin cancer. According to AAD guidelines, look for a moisturizer with SPF 30 or higher and broad-spectrum protection, meaning it protects against harmful UVA and UVB rays.
Secret 5: Encourage cell turnover with scrubs, microdermabrasion or peels.
Exfoliating - removing the outer layer of dead skin cells - can dramatically improve the look of your skin, no matter your complexion complaints. You can achieve this with at-home or professional scrubs, peels or microdermabrasion.
When you exfoliate and remove dead cells, you’re also removing excess pigmentation from sun exposure that causes age spots. Plus, you’re removing dead skin cells that can clog pores and potentially cause acne breakouts. The result? New, healthy, brighter-looking skin.
You’ll notice an improvement right away following an at-home peel or microdermabrasion. Another advantage of encouraging new cell turnover - skin will be smoother and softer, and your makeup will go on much easier.
Secret 6: Reach for skin soothers.
Everyday assaults on our skin from the environment - including the sun, wind and pollution - can cause irritation, inflammation and sensitivity. Blood vessels expand and skin becomes red. Look for products with soothing botanical ingredients to reduce inflammation and protect skin from damaging free radicals, such as chamomile, licorice root, vitamins C and E, aloe vera, zinc and curcumin.
Secret 7: Build up collagen.
Collagen is a natural substance that keeps skin plump, supple and smooth. However, collagen production decreases with age, leading to wrinkles, lines and sagging skin. Thankfully, certain topical ingredients, like vitamin C, can help boost new collagen synthesis in skin cells.
Secret 8: Don’t cleanse too often.
Especially if your skin is oily, you may be tempted to suds up several times a day to remove dirt, oil and grease. But over-washing can actually be harmful, because it disrupts skin’s protective lipid layer. As a result, your skin can become more vulnerable to environmental damage and end up losing moisture.
Instead, use a cleanser designed for your skin type, and wash twice a day - tops. You don’t want your skin to feel super-tight or squeaky-clean after washing - these are indicators that your cleanser is too drying for your skin type.
Secret 9: Start anti-aging treatments while you’re young.
Like anything else, it’s better to prevent or stave off aging before it happens. Protecting your skin now helps to prevent premature wrinkling and age posts caused by the sun. So start in your 20s, and look for peptide creams.
Secret 10: Focus beyond the face.
Do you focus your skincare routine mainly on your face? What about your lips, hands and neck? All these areas are also prone to irritation, dryness, sun damage and premature aging.
- Lips. Lips tend to lose natural volume with age, taking on a thinner appearance. They’re also more vulnerable to sun damage. Keep your kisser soft and smooth by using a damp washcloth to slough off rough skin. Then apply a protective, hydrating lip balm.
- Hands. Apply sunscreen liberally to your hardworking hands. For healthy hands, nail care is important, too. When removing nail polish, first apply hand cream or cuticle oil to the skin surrounding your nail to keep nails strong and hydrated.
- Neck. Anything you use on your face should go on your neck, too. In fact, did you know that 80 percent of how your neck ages is due to your skincare habits? That means good-for-you habits, like applying sunscreen daily, play a huge role in your neck’s health and appearance. You may also want to extend your beauty care to your chest, which can suffer environmental and age damage as well.
Incorporate these top 10 skincare secrets from the experts into your skincare routine, and you’ll undoubtedly reap the healthy, radiant rewards!